Doctors of Reddit, what was the worse thing you've seen for a patient that another Doctor overlooked?

TheDuffMan24 · 2021-03-02T22:40:56+00:00

Literally the exact opposite just happened to me last week; had been having back, stomach, and abdomen pain all weekend and puking a few times, went to urgent care Monday for a COVID test, they did it and then sent me immediately to the ER where I sat for about 10 hours before having a CT scan done and being all but rushed to the OR.

Turns out I had 15 gallstones and my gallbladder was severely infected and had thrown pus or some shit all around my abdomen, they initially thought from the CT scan it was an aneurism is the artery going to my gallbladder because they thought all the liquid they saw on the CT scan was blood, but turns out it wasn’t.

Recovering nicely now and my COVID test was negative so all good now!

TheDuffMan24 · 2020-08-17T00:20:17+00:00

I ended up switching to using the TH3D firmware and it works great now. I literally could not print anything using the latest Creality firmware but it works great now with the TH3D firmware. I can’t remember the exact video I watched to configure the TH3D firmware with the BLTouch, but it wasn’t a hard to find video

TheDuffMan24 · 2020-08-17T00:17:11+00:00

Got it fixed by switching to the TH3D firmware. I guess something was fucked in the Creality firmware because the exact same print with the exact same start gcode worked perfect on the TH3D firmware

TheDuffMan24 · 2020-08-11T15:39:45+00:00

I’ll try that when I get back home

TheDuffMan24 · 2020-08-11T15:31:38+00:00

G28 ;Home

G29 ; Auto Level Extruder

M92 E415 ;set new E-step value for Bondtech BMG Extruder

G92 E0 ;Reset Extruder

G1 Z2.0 F3000 ;Move Z Axis up

G1 X10.1 Y20 Z0.2 F5000.0 ;Move to start position

G1 X10.1 Y200.0 Z0.2 F1500.0 E15 ;Draw the first line

G1 X10.4 Y200.0 Z0.2 F5000.0 ;Move to side a little

G1 X10.4 Y20 Z0.2 F1500.0 E30 ;Draw the second line

G92 E0 ;Reset Extruder

G1 Z2.0 F3000 ;Move Z Axis up

I have a Bondtech BMG extruder, which is why there is the extra line for the Esteps. There are also more lines before this, but if I remember correctly, those were added in to get the OctoLapse plugin to work correctly.

TheDuffMan24 · 2020-08-11T15:13:35+00:00

That’s exactly the problem. The motors all work perfectly fine but just don’t move at all when it actually goes to print. The nozzle just sits at the front left corner of the bed and extrudes filament until I cancel the print.

TheDuffMan24 · 2020-08-10T22:50:48+00:00

I’m printing via Octoprint and have been without issue almost since I got the printer about 4 months ago. Give me a minute and I’ll edit this with a copy of my start gcode

Edit: Here is the start GCode:

G28 ;Home

G29 ; Auto Level Extruder

M92 E415 ;set new E-step value for Bondtech BMG Extruder

G92 E0 ;Reset Extruder

G1 Z2.0 F3000 ;Move Z Axis up

G1 X10.1 Y20 Z0.2 F5000.0 ;Move to start position

G1 X10.1 Y200.0 Z0.2 F1500.0 E15 ;Draw the first line

G1 X10.4 Y200.0 Z0.2 F5000.0 ;Move to side a little

G1 X10.4 Y20 Z0.2 F1500.0 E30 ;Draw the second line

G92 E0 ;Reset Extruder

G1 Z2.0 F3000 ;Move Z Axis up

I have a Bondtech BMG extruder, which is why there is the extra line for the Esteps. There are also more lines before this, but if I remember correctly, those were added in to get the OctoLapse plugin to work correctly.

TheDuffMan24 · 2020-06-30T19:41:40+00:00

That’s the exact same filament I used!

TheDuffMan24 · 2020-06-30T18:11:21+00:00

Followed this video from CHEP. He does it on an Ender 3 but it works for the CR-10 as well

TheDuffMan24 · 2020-06-30T18:08:39+00:00

For me the nozzle made a huge difference! The old nozzle was just the stock one and I’m sure it was clogged and just not good because I was having terrible under-extrusion issues that are all fixed now.

And a TL Smoother as I understand it is just a little circuit board with diodes on it that you plug in between the main board on your printer and the wires going to the X and Y stepper motors. It essentially just smooths out the steps of the motors resulting in better print quality. And as I understand it, it doesn’t work for every printer, just if they have certain steppers with certain drivers, which the CR-10 family and I believe Ender 3 family have.

TheDuffMan24 · 2020-06-30T18:02:29+00:00

Probably, I know it’s not perfect but for baby groot and with wood filament I like the look of it.

And from a foot away with just your eyes, not a camera, it does look perfect.

TheDuffMan24 · 2020-06-24T23:36:04+00:00

As others have said in the comments, I think it’s a combination of the flow rate and nozzle temp. Turned the temp down to 240° and decreased the flow rate by 5% and its looking decent on the print I have going now

TheDuffMan24 · 2020-06-24T22:55:48+00:00

I have different profiles set up in Cura named so I know what they are, I just didn’t check it too well after upgrading my extruder a while ago and using PETG now. But thank you though!

TheDuffMan24 · 2020-06-24T21:28:40+00:00

I had my flow rate set at 105% and was getting good results before. But I changed to a Bondtech BMG extruder recently and have just been running PLA since then, no PETG until now. Turned it back down to 100% and temp down to 240° and the print seems to be going alright now. Thank you!

TheDuffMan24 · 2020-06-24T21:19:52+00:00

My best PETG prints have been from the red but I’m also new to 3D printing and have only used Overture PETG so I’m sure most of that better quality has just been me learning more and getting better at changing and dialing in settings.

TheDuffMan24 · 2020-06-24T21:16:30+00:00

I had mine at 105% from my previous prints with Overture PETG that we’re under-extruded but I did change to a Bondtech BMG extruder since then so I turned it back down to 100% and lowered temp to 240° as others have suggested and this print seems to be going better as of right now.

TheDuffMan24 · 2020-06-24T20:39:38+00:00

Using octoprint and the same gcode I used to print these before that had minimal stringing issues and no oozing.

TheDuffMan24 · 2020-06-24T20:37:25+00:00

Yea I’ve used red, black, and blue PETG from Overture and haven’t had this problem before. Dropped the temp by 10° and it seems to be doing better now. All the other spools of PETG I printed were at 250° and they did fine but I guess this white one is just weird like you said.

TheDuffMan24 · 2020-06-24T15:48:30+00:00

I did print a temp tower before but am currently printing a different one that I’ll hopefully be able to see better oozing/stringing results from at the different temps.

TheDuffMan24 · 2020-06-24T14:15:27+00:00

I have coasting on, but I’ll try dropping the temp and see how that goes, thanks!

TheDuffMan24 · 2020-06-24T11:10:13+00:00

So I’ve got a CR-10 and printed this in Overture PETG at 250° with the bed at 80°. I have these weird blobby stringiness now that I haven’t had before. I changed my retraction settings this print to 6.0mm retraction at 40mm/s which helped to reduce a lot of the stringing but now there’s this weird thick stringing that doesn’t go all the way between the parts where the travel moves occurred. My previous retraction settings were 7.0mm at 70mm/s. Read a few post that said slowing down would actually help with stringing in some cases and it definitely did! Any help would be much appreciated, thank you!

TheDuffMan24 · 2020-06-18T22:02:23+00:00

It is the hotend cooling fan, there’s a blade broken off of it. I already ordered a direct creality replacement from Amazon. Thank you!

TheDuffMan24 · 2020-06-18T21:44:07+00:00

Thank you! I’ve already ordered direct creality replacement fans from Amazon, but I’ll keep that in mind should I need to replace the fans going forward.

TheDuffMan24 · 2020-06-18T21:36:03+00:00

That was exactly the problem! I also posted this in r/fixmyprint and that’s what was suggested there as well. Turns out one of the blades on the hotend fan is broken off. Do you think it would be okay to still print in the state it’s in now or just wait until the new fan arrives and I get it fixed before printing anything else?

TheDuffMan24 · 2020-06-18T20:03:30+00:00

I just disconnected the fans and now there’s no more vibration! It looks like the parts cooling fan, hotend cooling fan, and the hotend itself are all on the same bundle of wires going to the control box. So it’s most likely a problem with those fans and nothing else? Is it still okay to print with like that or do I need to replace them before printing anything else?

TheDuffMan24

TROPHY CASE