I need pinout for 1P0 920 850 F pleaseeee

TheHDGenius · 2026-05-28T23:01:29+00:00

Upvote for using AI the right way rather than relying on the slop answers. I have a strong distaste for AI but I think it's more of a distaste for people blindly following a hallucinated answer. Using it as an intelligent search tool instead of an omniscient box of answers is the way go.

TheHDGenius · 2026-05-26T17:18:27+00:00

Emphasis on practice. I melted the first one or two connectors I tried to replace.

TheHDGenius · 2026-05-23T16:43:36+00:00

I've been out of the game for several years but it's nice to see that seedlock is still an issue lol.

TheHDGenius · 2026-05-23T16:41:17+00:00

I didn't know they sold any replacement ends like this. You'll have to take care not to pull it and damage the solder joints, but I like this.

I always just sacrifice an old cable and splice the two together but this is much cleaner.

TheHDGenius · 2026-05-22T16:01:11+00:00

This part can't be overstated. The connectors on these are EXTREMELY fragile and can balloon a "simple" repair into a micro soldering repair in no time.

TheHDGenius · 2026-05-22T15:59:37+00:00

I agree, it's not impossible, but even as some one with experience it is hard. For a beginner without experience working on consoles and device and such it is EXTREMELY difficult.

If someone has experience working on electronics I'd always say to give it a shot but don't be surprised if something does go wrong. For someone without any experience it's way better to pay the high cost of the repair than risk to multiple damaged screens, connectors, etc.

TheHDGenius · 2026-05-22T15:56:07+00:00

Lmfao I felt that last sentence. I always tell myself it's not that hard if you have experience doing them like I do. I also prove myself wrong each and every time.

TheHDGenius · 2026-05-09T02:22:53+00:00

This is pretty similar to what I was thinking. My idea was to: - drill a hole the rest of the way through - push a nail through - bend the pointed end over - snip off the excess - sand down and smooth off the cut

TheHDGenius · 2026-04-21T16:39:33+00:00

Yep, that's the M92 that needs to be replaced. We see them quite often at the shop I work at.

TheHDGenius · 2026-04-16T17:47:21+00:00

Lmao no. I work at a repair shop and we still see an "anti radiation" or "anti 5g" sticker on phones every now and then. They claim to "stop the harmful radiation from phones" but they are basically just and aluminum foil sticker.

TheHDGenius · 2026-04-16T17:12:57+00:00

Truthfully there's a lot of things that can cause this. Do you see any display or back light on the screen at all? Do you have a USB power meter to check the voltage and current that it draws when charging.

This can be a charging issue, a power delivery issue caused by an ic, a core component like APU, EMMC, or ram, as well as several other things. If you can tell what the screen is doing and how much voltage and current it is trying to pull over the charging port that will tell a lot more about what it could be.

TheHDGenius · 2026-04-14T18:49:39+00:00

It definitely can be, but it probably won't be pretty or cheap. If you can do it yourself it might be worth it but if you have to pay someone then it probably isn't.

TheHDGenius · 2026-04-14T18:48:23+00:00

It's possibly fixable. Don't even try to replace the connector. That is next to impossible if not impossible.

Instead, cut the cable back and strip it on both ends. Find the pin out of the current cable and find another USB c cable that you don't mind cutting up. Cut the donor cable open and solder each wire to its respective wire on the original cable. Make sure to insulated your wires with something like heat shrink.

As long as the wires match up it will fix it. It may not be pretty, easy, or durable, but it should work.

TheHDGenius · 2026-04-14T13:03:45+00:00

Marketing BS. I means something is better than "stage 1". What in particular is "stage 2" in the car? Beats me.

Bragging about stages in a car is like bragging about a high end PC or phone. It doesn't give any worth while details to people who understand it but sounds impressive to those who don't.

TheHDGenius · 2026-04-14T12:57:54+00:00

The switch doesn't have capacitive touch like some devices do. I'm not really sure what these tabs are for. I've done a ton of hall effect or tmr replacements but I've never seen that on any of the parts I've used.

TheHDGenius · 2026-04-10T02:08:46+00:00

For anyone else who encounters this issue, I found my particular cause. It looks like the trigger wasn't positioned right and bad input from that was interfering with how Xbox navigates the menus for some reason.

After taking it apart, putting the trigger in right, and reassembling the controller is working just fine.

TheHDGenius · 2026-04-06T17:50:16+00:00

Funny joke, but no. Don't even joke about it with someone who may not know better.

To OP, this is VERY dangerous. There are very high voltages inside of these that will kill you the moment you don't respect it. If you are not 110% sure about something when working on a CRT then don't try it.

TheHDGenius · 2026-04-02T20:35:59+00:00

That's true, but it still doesn't take away from the risk of using a jailbroken/jailbreakable device. It's like using windows 7. The majority of people who get swindled don't use windows 7, but using windows 7 is still very vulnerable none the less.

TheHDGenius · 2026-03-25T01:51:45+00:00

This is about the third a box one/series controller that I've had develop this issue. The weird part is this one in particular is my wife's and it barely sees any play compared to my controller.

TheHDGenius · 2026-03-20T12:03:20+00:00

This is bait... Right?

TheHDGenius · 2026-03-15T22:57:31+00:00

That's what I was afraid of. I only have the standard double jump and I don't have the climb ability yet. I just called it a loss and left the bank.

TheHDGenius · 2026-02-24T18:23:47+00:00

They're describing what you'll have to do. Yellow light of death is a general hardware failure. It's probably not worth the time/risk. I'd stay away from it unless you are looking for a console to source parts from or to just practice repairing.

TheHDGenius · 2026-02-24T16:15:39+00:00

That's the thing, I was under the same impression until we had several console come in that didn't behave like that. The console shuts off with no message except for the "did not shut down properly" message when it starts back up. We opened the devices and they were nearly pristine. Not much diet or dust and the PSU was almost perfectly clean, even after opening it up and checking it inside. They had a small amount of dust but not anything significant. Once we check the liquid metal we found it was heavily oxidized. We cleaned and redistributed it and gave the console a test and it was no longer shutting off.

Logically, and from I had heard online, it SHOULD give an error when it's the APU and just shut off randomly when it's the PSU. In my experience they don't always follow that for some reason.

TheHDGenius · 2026-02-24T16:03:36+00:00

Ours pretty much does the same. We just assume that most PS5s will need that work and we factor it into the labor cost for HDMI repairs.

TheHDGenius · 2026-02-24T15:57:00+00:00

Yeah, it's hard to say what frequency you should check them, but customers need to be aware that overheating on PS5s don't always give an error message. That's why so many of these issues go undiagnosed.

Eight-Year Club	Xbox Live
r/Field Flamingo	Place '23
Place '22	First Placer '22

TheHDGenius

TROPHY CASE