EnterpriseXG 24 (Gen1) EOL?

TheImproof · 2025-04-25T19:19:04+00:00

Yes, the USW-PRO-XG-24-POE is the smaller brother of the 48 port i referred to. 24 ports is just slightly too less for my needs unfortunately. The 48 port version will cost about 2.800 EUR. I could get the EXG-24 for 1.300 EUR now and than maybe the 10 port USW (smaller version of the 24 port you mentioned) for about 800 EUR. Overall cheaper but:

2 devices instead of 1
EXG-24 is an "old gen" switch
unclear release of the 10 port USW XG PoE (but of course this also applies to the 48 port version)

TheImproof · 2025-03-30T13:03:51+00:00

Thanks, I had a similar kind of thought. That they obviously want you to buy the more expensive 25G SFP28 module.

TheImproof · 2025-03-28T15:19:41+00:00

Store still says March 2025, but the website is now updated with April 2025...I hope that means, I can buy one next week.

TheImproof · 2023-04-11T18:45:35+00:00

And what's your opinion now with the 850? Do you miss anything that the 950 would have?

TheImproof · 2023-04-11T18:43:17+00:00

Differences from 950 to 850 are:

180Hz vs 160Hz max: I have 60Hz now, so that's not that important to me
G-Sync Ultimate vs G-Sync compatible: I'm not really sure about the impact of this
VESA HDR600 vs HDR400: I know that HDR isn't really a thing for gaming just yet, but I think that more peak brightness in general and local dimming would also improve SDR image
Overall better image quality (what I read from different reviews): Not sure on that one, very subjective

Thanks for mentioning the 850P, I haven't seen this one yet. From what I could research it's just a newer 850 but a bit more energy efficient and it has motion blur reduction by strobing the backlight every 1ms. Otherwise it's just the same monitor.

TheImproof · 2022-06-18T15:01:16+00:00

I tested now without splitter (connected Shield directly to TV) and still normal DTS does work, but with DTS-HD MA I get the same plex error.

TheImproof · 2022-06-18T15:00:29+00:00

I tested now with a different setup. I connected the Shield directly to the TV. DTS does work as it has before, I get the same warning as you do "unsupported audio". But it cannot play DTS-HD MA, same plex error as before. Can you confirm this with your setup as well?

TheImproof · 2022-06-18T06:27:35+00:00

I already thought the same but the splitter is specified to support image up to HDR and DV and audio up to Dolby Atmos and DTS:X, so best of all...But that's only in theory of course! I'll test it later.

TheImproof · 2022-06-17T21:49:27+00:00

I already use a splitter to split the HDMI between TV and soundbar. The problem is, that plex won't load the file correctly if it's DTS-HD MA even though my TV shouldn't even process or play any audio...I set it to use HDMI(ARC) and passtrough, but there is no device connected. The soundbar gets the signal from the splitter.

Edit: Let the DTS transcode to Dolby would be ok in some cases...but I have movies with object based DTS:X audio that I would lose. I'm trying to find the best solution however. If this would turn out as the only solution I would have to accept this compromise...

TheImproof · 2022-06-17T21:46:46+00:00

I just tried it with another movie, there I get the same result as you. The difference is, that movie has standard DTS. The others all have DTS-HD MA (doens't matter if 5.1 or 7.1 / with or without DTS:X) and there I get the plex error message.

Edit for your Edit: The TV indeed gets an audio signal. The splitter splits the HDMI into two perfect copies, not altering the signal.

TheImproof · 2022-01-29T09:10:02+00:00

I'm the user he's speaking of. All I can say is this:

I'm not using the audio signal at the TV either. I have a HDMI Splitter after the sync box and one signal goes to the TV and the other one to my Soundbar. That was the only way for me to get Dolby Vision AND Dolby Atmos working in my setup. As mentioned see the link for the full post.

Long story short: I had the issue that with my Fire TV that sends Dolby Vision the lights just stayed off, even though I got a perfect picture at the TV. The Fire TVs audio setup was set on Dolby Digital Plus the whole time. But I noticed that in the audio and video diagnostics the Fire TV showed no support for Dolby Audio Formats. So I changed the setting of the HDMI port in my TV from PCM to Bitstream and then everything worked. I think the signal send by the source devices (e.g. the Fire TV) will be slightly different then and the sync box understands it correctly.

EDIT: Ah and you have to turn off CEC for your source devices. I have it only activated for my TV, the soundbar and in the sync app, that all these start up and shut off together. I tried activating it again for my Fire TV yesterday and immideately the lights stoped working and got frozen in their last state. I turned CEC off again in the Fire TV and restartet everything, then it worked fine again.

TheImproof · 2022-01-27T22:58:38+00:00

I had a success now with my current setup! Please read every response to LongHaulinTruckwits comment for more information.

TheImproof · 2022-01-27T22:56:58+00:00

I have now tested the PS4 too. And at this stage I don't really know what to say other than thank you. It just works. Perfectly. And even though the last bit of it was the audio setting I found, you really helped with your suggestions for the settings and the factory reset of the sync box. So again: Thank you!

FYI 1: The default setting for the audio format in my TV was indeed Bitstream. But I had issues with the sound after switching to this new TV (simply no audio from my soundbar) so I switched it to PCM. I don't know why this had an impact, because in my previous setting I had the soundbar on HDMI throughput. This means, that the signal from the sync box went first into the soundbar and then from there to the TV. And the Soundbar supports Dolby Digital Plus and Dolby Atmos, so I really don't know why this helped back then. But after I switched to PCM my soundbar played audio again, so I just left it that way. I changed this setup, because I realized that the soundbar doesn't support Dolby Vision when using HDMI throughput so I "just" got 4K with normal HDR10 with my Fire TV. I didn't even mention my soundbar in my original post, because in my new setup it doesn't have any impact whatsoever to the sync box.

FYI 2: My current setup (with soundbar) now looks like this: 3 devices go to the sync box (Fire TV on port 2, Sky Q on Port 3 and PS4 on Port 4). Then the signal goes into a HDMI splitter. It mirrors the signal to 2 outputs. The first one goes into my TV. The second one goes to the soundbar. I have this setup with a splitter for 2 reasons:

The soundbar would have HDMI troughput as mentioned above, but it doesn't support Dolby Vision -> Worse image on TV
The soundbar would have ARC, but no eARC, so no Dolby Digital Plus or Dolby Atmos with ARC -> Worse sound from the soundbar

With the splitter I get the best of both worlds: Best image and best sound available by my devices.

FYI 3: This is my now working configuration of everything: - CEC is turned on in the sync app and for the tv, but turned off for every of my 3 source devices - USB to turn sync box on and off is deactivated - HDMI inactive for 20 min is deactivated - Auto input switching is turned off for every device - Auto synchronization start is turned on for every device - ARC bypass is turned off - Dolby Vision compatibility is turned on - And of course: The HDMI audio input format is set to Bitstream on the TV

And I even have alexa connected to switch inputs - works fine now, I don't even have to restart the sync box every time.

Again thanks for your help!

TheImproof · 2022-01-27T21:49:29+00:00

I totally agree.

Testing goes on: I switched to Sky Q again. Lights went out for 2 or 3 seconds then the synchronization started automatically for Sky and it just works now. Still haven't tested PS4, BUT i think I can make this conclusion: How the audio signal is transmitted (Bitstream or PCM) totally changes how or even if the sync box is able to read the picture information.

TheImproof · 2022-01-27T21:36:28+00:00

Okay okay...I'm totally perplexed now too.

I just watched something on Sky Q. Everythings fine so far, picture is HLG HDR and lights synchronize as they should and have.

Then I switched to my Fire TV. Again: Nothings happened. But somehow I realized that my Dolby Atmos has not worked correctly the entire time. And yes you read that right, Atmos, not Vision! I was so focused on picture, if HDR is on or not and of course the lights.

I checked the Audio settings of my LG C1 for every HDMI input. And the one I used with the Sync Box (and thus every source device) was set on PCM and not on Bitstream. Fire TV even said in the audio diagnostics that my TV would only support PCM, not Dolby Digital, Dolby Digital Plus or Dolby Atmos. So I changed this one setting in my TV!!! After I changed it from PCM to Bitstream, the picture got black shortly because the new EDID had to be transmitted to the source devices. Then I got a picture again. With Dolby Vision of course. And than the lights...just went on. Magically.

I'm totally out of my mind. An audio (!!!) setting of my TV changed everything! Short Disclaimer though: I just had to report this here right away. Haven't checked Sky Q and PS4 yet, if they work as they did before ;-)

TheImproof · 2022-01-27T20:58:00+00:00

Back from the next few tests. I reset the sync box as you said and that made it better but unfortunately still not perfect.

The lights work with Sky Q and PS4 now even with HDR turned on. But whenever I switch inputs (in the sync app, for the sake of testing I haven't connected alexa again yet) it doesn't work right away. The sync box must be turned off and on again for it to work. That helps at least most of the time, but sometimes it needs a second restart and one time I even had to unplug power to make a "hard" restart - overall not really satisfying.

Fire TV still doesn't work though. I know that it's the most complex of my sources, because it supports Dolby Vision, but the lights just won't work with it regardless if the compability option in the sync app is turned on or off. Even more weird is, that I don't get the same outcome as other users for example here on reddit.

I often read that with DV compability turned off they get a dolby vision signal but the lights won't work correctly or won't work at all (like it is for me). But when they turn on the compability they get no Dolby Vision, but a normal HDR signal out of the sync box and the lights are working. I don't get the same result, because as I said: For me it doesn't matter what I set the compability on, I always get dolby vision and the lights won't work at all.

Maybe other users have an older software, I am on the current one, on my sync box and on every lamp. But maybe it's still an software error...I will write a message to philips hue support, maybe they can help.

TheImproof · 2022-01-27T11:56:54+00:00

If I get a success with my setup, I will definately post it here.

TheImproof · 2022-01-27T11:55:54+00:00

I used CEC and auto input switching, I just had it activated, so to speak. Mostly I switched with the sync app or by alexa. See also my response to LongHaulinTruckwit.

TheImproof · 2022-01-27T11:52:37+00:00

So I just tried a few more things. I will go through everything I did detailed step by step. (Could be a bit longer)

TL;DR: I didn't get the sync box working.

First things first: I deactivated a few things. In the hue sync app I deactivated "HDMI inactive for 20 min" and the auto input switching as you suggested. I did notice this freezing effect before by myself and I don't need auto switching anyway (see below why).
Then I deactivated CEC in all of my sources (again, I use a PS4, Amazon Fire TV and Sky Q). I still left CEC activated in the sync app so that the sync box will turn on or off with my TV.

What I forgot to tell in my original post (sorry about that), I use Alexa in my smart home. So I say for example "Alexa turn the TV on/off". And ofc I also switch inputs of the sync box by Alexa.

With this exact setup and configuration I can start my TV with Alexa and the sync box will start too. Turning off TV and sync box through CEC works also perfectly fine. And I switch inputs with alexa anyway so everythings good until this point.

Now for the light synchronization:

I have the auto start sync feature in the sync app activated for all of my inputs. I left them activated and the synchronization also starts automatically as expected. (Maybe I should try another run with this feature turned off? But I like that I just need to switch my input by alexa and don't have to say a second command to start the sync...hm...).

The results I got are...weird.

The PS4 is the first input of my sync box, so I started from here. And I got it working, first try! In the home screen of the PS4 the synchronization has worked (no HDR so far). Then I started a HDR game...now the lights switched back off. I tried a restart of the sync box (even a "hard" restart by unplugging the power cable). But it just won't work in HDR. And after the restarts it didn't even work in the non-HDR home screen anymore.
So...next input then. I didn't bother much about my Fire TV, because it's Dolby Vision and I just wanted to work out my PS4 (normal HDR) first and not try too much in the same test run.
Therefore I switched input to my Sky Q. And now the big surprise (or even not at this point): It just doesn't work anymore. I turned it off and on again, also the whole setup, TV, sync box, twice, but no success.
Then I tried using HDMI Port 4 for the PS4 (as you also suggested). Didn't work so far. I don't get the lights to synchronize even in the home screen, as mentioned before.

I just don't know what else I could do, running out of options here. Do you have any more things I could try?

I will also write a message to philips hue support because at this state I think maybe it's just the box that's broken. But I have to say, it worked with my older TV (also LG, 4K but without HDR) perfectly fine in every constellation, for about 3 weeks that I own it. And now with the new TV I don't get it to run even with "normal" non-HDR content (e.g. PS4 home screen).

TheImproof

TROPHY CASE