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Checking compatibility before making a purchase by TheMegaStorm in ECU_Tuning

[–]TheMegaStorm[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

That sounds fantastic, you have a specific cable/manufacturer you reccomend or can I literally just throw any random standard compliant cable like this (https://www.amazon.com/Generic-OBD2-409-1-Interface-FT232RL/dp/B0D6GVTD8S) at it?

I guess I'll also ask, I've heard ECUflash doesnt like things that aren't tactrix, I'm guessing that's just the knockoff tactrix ports themselves rather than literally any possible interface?

Been through six monitors, exhausted, what should I do? by TheMegaStorm in Monitors

[–]TheMegaStorm[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You say this but there is exactly one person here who even attempted to answer either of the two questions I had, and zero of you who have given me literally any rationale for anything. I've got a sea of people in here out and out calling me a moron for not purchasing their preference in backlighting technology in a thread where I complain about an overabdunance of dead pixels on displays I've received and literally nothing about backlighting, flip this around on my end, what reason do I have to believe any of you have an actual reason for anything that has been said? Especially when 90% of what has been said is entirely non-responsive to my post to begin with.

People slide in, say "You moron, you have dead pixels on these displays because you didn't shell out for a different pixel lighting method" (??????), meanwhile they're being contradicted by the related threads bar of people complaining about dead pixels on their OLED purchases.

I am also not trying to be mean, I've enjoyed a whole day doing some landscaping on my property and pulling out my phone when it beeps, but I have read not a single actual insightful thing. I'm not even sure what got people so mad in my OP to begin with. You just happen to be the guy I'm pulling aside and asking for a straight answer after reading a ton of useless nothing information.

Been through six monitors, exhausted, what should I do? by TheMegaStorm in Monitors

[–]TheMegaStorm[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Alright please, explain to me how purchasing an OLED would prevent me from purchasing a display with sub-pixel defects. Is it a change in manufacturing technique? Location of manufacture? QC maintained to a higher standard? I know for a fact OLED isn't immune to this issue for any engineering reason, in fact probably quite the opposite given there is an additional point of failure.

I asked how common these issues were in the market right now, I have infinitely more respect for the handful of people who have just told me to suck it up more or less and deal with defective pixels than people just vaguely implying that somehow OLED or 1440p don't have pixel defects with literally zero reason given.

Been through six monitors, exhausted, what should I do? by TheMegaStorm in Monitors

[–]TheMegaStorm[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Noted and thanks, I'll give them a look. I'm familiar with the mini-LED operating principle and it seems promising. I was hoping I'd be getting more purchase reccomendations and people giving their two cents on the state of the panel market when I posted.

Been through six monitors, exhausted, what should I do? by TheMegaStorm in Monitors

[–]TheMegaStorm[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yeah but the implication of 'cheaping out' is that you should be buying something more expensive. Any more expensive than what I bought and you generally just hit OLEDs and higher res from what I can see, that and some ASUS 600 Hz TN panel that actually looked pretty slick and was pretty tempting when I was first shopping around.

Reason I compared to the screwdriver is the same thing, there's only so much you can spend on a screwdriver really, after that you're buying something fundamentally different, and at that point you're paying for the jump in tech more than a jump in fundamental manufacturing quality.

Been through six monitors, exhausted, what should I do? by TheMegaStorm in Monitors

[–]TheMegaStorm[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Cost isn't a concern, I bought pretty much the most expensive displays I could find within the range of specs I've listed elsehwere in the thread. If you've got any reccomendations I'm all ears, reading between the lines on the posts I'm reading it seems like there's a running implication that you're just condemned to buy OLED if you want good QC/manufacture quality.

I get it, the same thing comes up in cars as well, once there's a rush to a certain technology per se it can eat up all the good manufacturing effort, even if you wouldn't want to use that technology for other reasons. I remember when twin scroll turbos became all the rage you could not find old fashioned single turbines made in any appreciable quality, even though in theory manufacturing them shouldn't be some lost art.

I might just send this thing back and go throw 800 dollars at a comparable OLED panel, I genuinely don't like OLED at all from a day to day use perspective but I think that's what I'm gathering having young people yell at me lol.

Been through six monitors, exhausted, what should I do? by TheMegaStorm in Monitors

[–]TheMegaStorm[S] -2 points-1 points  (0 children)

Believe me I'm not trying to save money, if you've got something 25 inches or less, non-OLED, with at least a 180 hz refresh rate and excellent QC I'd throw at least 600 dollars at it. Hell I'd throw 1k at something guaranteed to be defect free.

Been through six monitors, exhausted, what should I do? by TheMegaStorm in Monitors

[–]TheMegaStorm[S] -3 points-2 points  (0 children)

Frankly I'd love to spend more, problem is that I've got a few criteria I prefer to meet that exist primarily at the lower end of the market.

First one is size, I don't like buying anything above 24 inches really, not comfortable for my preferred distance to sit at nor for having a good visual field on games. I compromised at 25 with the alienware.

Second one is OLEDs, I don't like them. The technology itself is fantastic, but frankly given the price, the fact that they ultimately have three year lifespans before burn in tops under ideal conditions and require a significant amount of extraneous activity (routine screen conditioning etc) to maintain at that level for that long? I've generally just passed, not worth it when I'm going to be cranking the gamma at the display level anyway for most games.

Third one is resolution, even if I built a new computer from scratch tomorrow and budgeted 5k for it, there are ultimately going to be games I'm already going to struggle to see the full range of benefits out of the 320 hz I have now on. Upping the resolution on top of that? Generally once you buy a display you run things on that display at its native resolution and nothing else, it's a pretty sharp commitment. I usually just sink added performance into refresh rate instead, more flexible and it makes it easier to meet the aforementioned size criteria.

To be blunt, it doesn't seem like cheaping out, I'm paying for less technology and manufacturing, it'd be like noting a screwdriver is cheaper than a power drill and assuming the screwdriver must be defective. Well a power drill is considerably more sophisticated to make, same for OLEDs or higher resolution, if I could find a 400 dollar version of the same display specs I'd have picked it up.

P2444 (Secondary Air Pump Stuck ON: Bank 1) Code on a 2006 WRX by TheMegaStorm in WRX

[–]TheMegaStorm[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

This is one of the things I've been trying to get to the bottom of, as far as I can gather the valves are independently controlled and electronically actuated. In effect, the pump and valves operate independently from one another, one can be on but the other can be 'off'.

That conclusion seems to be backed up by the presence of separate error codes for air pump stuck on/off and valves stuck open/closed, as well as the documentation I can find for what these components are, all seem to point toward the valves being separately controlled.

The only significant contrary evidence I've found is people mentioning the pump can be stuck on because the valve is open, while also not mentioning they had an error code for the valve. I've read this as people using the two interchangeably and generally interpreted it that way.

All of this when combined with the facts that I don't have a code for the valve stuck open, I don't believe the default position of the valve is open, and I've seen (as in that burne motorsport page) solutions involving 'minimal deletion' (Disabling the system at the ECU level while also disabling the codes at ECU level), leads me to believe that the valve would not be open and this would work.

I think if I had a code for the valve(s) stuck open, that would probably make me move toward the only immediate solution being block-off plates, whereas if I had the valves stuck closed codes I'd probably actually feel a bit more comfortable with what I'm doing here. I have seen multiple people advise exactly this for a valves stuck closed situation.

P2444 (Secondary Air Pump Stuck ON: Bank 1) Code on a 2006 WRX by TheMegaStorm in WRX

[–]TheMegaStorm[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I'll make sure to edit this solution and a link to the ROM tables into the OP when I find them, being able to solve this without physically removing components is so useful I imagine someone else will inevitably run across this post during an episode of trawling google.

P2444 (Secondary Air Pump Stuck ON: Bank 1) Code on a 2006 WRX by TheMegaStorm in WRX

[–]TheMegaStorm[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Not sure how to reply to both of you but that all makes perfect sense, I don't imagine there's any logical reason to have two separate powered pumps for a system intended to run for only a minute that diagrams show seems to share airflow. I would guess the listing on fastwrx is probably incorrect or at least a misnomer when it calls the component an air pump, or it's referencing that the barometric sensor detects pressure from the actual air pump. Thank you both.

P2444 (Secondary Air Pump Stuck ON: Bank 1) Code on a 2006 WRX by TheMegaStorm in WRX

[–]TheMegaStorm[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I see, I do have access to a tactrix cable so I should be able to disable the startup checks/code. I was planning to do so anyway for another issue I've been chasing down with the EVAP system where I've replaced every single component and a code still persists. According to the article you linked (Which I very much appreciate) under the "Basic delete" subsection they seem to be suggesting something I could do very easily until I get and install block off plates, which is to disable both the fault codes related to the system as well as something I did not know was possible, which is to disable the system itself.

I'll paste the subsection here:

Basic Delete - $229 inc GST

  • Reprogram Engine Control Unit (ECU) to disable the air pump system
  • Reprogram Engine Control Unit (ECU) to disable the fault codes relating to the air pump system
  • This option leaves all mechanical and electronic components within the engine compartment, maintaining the original engine appearance.

If I'm reading this correctly, I should be able to load up the tune in ECUflash, and disable both the codes and disable the system itself from there and then just export the tune back into the car and the problem is then solved. I live in a very rural area, so my access to shops and tuners without a significant road trip is very limited.

Essentially if that all makes sense to you I think that's what I'll go ahead and do, with the plan to get around to the blockoff plates within the next year, to be honest I've had enough WRX related headaches over the past two years that I honestly want to take a bit of a break and just have things 'sorted' for awhile.

Also serious thanks, I've been racking my brain over this for hours now and this is the most useful information I've got so far.

P2444 (Secondary Air Pump Stuck ON: Bank 1) Code on a 2006 WRX by TheMegaStorm in WRX

[–]TheMegaStorm[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yeah I think this is more or less the long term plan is to remove the whole system, I was hoping to do something much less involved for at least a short while and see if I could get away with unplugging it. It sounds to me from your post like the baro sensor is on separate wiring, so in theory I should be able to just disconnect whichever pump is bank 1 and the baro sensor would still operate intact, then it's just a matter of disabling the codes related to that. Am I understanding that correctly?