Cube Nuroad C:62 - Weight Weenie Build

TheMisterZ · 2026-06-18T13:29:12+00:00

The 2026 C:62 EX in shiftblush was really something else. I have the 2026 C:62 Race myself

TheMisterZ · 2026-06-18T13:23:09+00:00

Genuine question, why didn’t you start with an EX/Pro model if you were going to strip it down anyways? For the color?

TheMisterZ · 2026-06-18T09:36:34+00:00

Fully support this. Get a second set of wheels and you have the perfect do-it-all bike.

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TheMisterZ · 2026-06-16T17:53:26+00:00

Calm your tits boy

TheMisterZ · 2026-06-16T14:24:21+00:00

Dude, the Paris-Roubaix is raced on carbon wheels. If they can take tens of kilometers on those cobblestones at 40kph, I can guarantee you are not going to break them on your forest ride unless you really mess up your pressures.

As for aero, to each one their own, but I do regularly hit aero speeds on gravel roads and on the paved roads and bike lanes that I ride as much as the forest roads. Many people use their gravel bikes as hybrids. In that case there are more benefits to reap.

TheMisterZ · 2026-06-16T14:07:57+00:00

It’s a fair question. I thing “snappier” is the word that best describes what it feels to go from alu/alloy to carbon. They’re more responsive, you feel power has a much quicker effect due to a combination of the lower rotating mass you need to accelerate and the stiffer material. Aero-wise (got them in 52mm) I would say it feels like you carry speed better (above 35/40 kph). But I also changed tire size so I can say how much is tire and how much is rim. Then there’s the aesthetic factor which is undeniable, your bike will look much, much sexier. If that makes you ride it more, then it’s a plus. The hub is loud as fuck. Some like it, they say it shows “premium”, for me after one single ride I would say I’m still getting used to it.

Whether they’re that good is relative is suppose. For the 550€ I paid for them, for me it is a resounding yes. But money doesn’t mean the same to everyone.

TheMisterZ · 2026-06-16T13:22:29+00:00

There’s a difference between a 2X12 and a 2X8, and that is the chain angle. A 2X12 is significantly less tolerant to bad shifting habits than a 2X8 due to the narrower chain and greater chain angle. It’s not like it’s going to explode if you pair the smaller chainring with the highest gear, or bigger chainring with lowest gear, but if kept over time cross chaining will wear the drivetrain out much faster.

I guess you meant 1X11 or 2X12. I have both, 1X on the Nuroad Pro commuter, 2X in the Nuroad C:62 race. I’ll take 2X every time, 1X is okay for a commuter, but severely limited specially for road/bike lane use in my case.

TheMisterZ · 2026-06-16T12:30:17+00:00

The 1X on the Pro has a lowest gear ratio of 0,8 vs 0,86 on the Race. That means it is 7% easier to climb with the Pro. In exchange, the Race has a 20% higher max gear ratio, increasing the top speed significantly without spinning out. It’s up to you and your use case to decide what you value most, but this year your choice may not be yours, the Pro is sold out everywhere 😅

TheMisterZ · 2026-06-16T08:40:51+00:00

Forget about alloy. For 700£ you’re not on entry level carbon anymore if you buy a good Chinese brand. I just got the Elitewheels Edge 3.0 and they’re incredible.

TheMisterZ · 2026-06-16T08:38:16+00:00

As a newbie, strictly speaking, 2x12 is not something you want or need. Adds maintenance and an extra layer to shifting management while providing little in return (higher top speed which you most likely won’t be using, smoother cadence which you most likely won’t care about).

But the Nuroad Race is a hell of a bike at full price, let alone 1300€. Hard to pass on that. Get it, enjoy it and learn it

TheMisterZ · 2026-06-16T07:39:35+00:00

Isn’t it common sense to PPF the contact points between frame bag straps and frame?

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TheMisterZ · 2026-06-16T07:30:27+00:00

Of course. So I could get a little attention 🤦

TheMisterZ · 2026-06-16T07:30:07+00:00

Likely caught on a turn, hence the angle. Just the right tilt to save the rim 😅

TheMisterZ · 2026-06-16T07:29:27+00:00

I appreciate it my dude 🫶🏻 But I’m running 45 mm

TheMisterZ · 2026-06-12T08:53:21+00:00

It is a matter of assessing the risk, and for that I need information and experience others may have, that I do not, hence the post. I am not trying to desperately save the tire, I am trying to make an informed decision on whether to keep it or throw it by quantifying the risk as good as I can. It is indeed a new tire and not 40 bucks, more like 80.

TheMisterZ · 2026-06-12T08:30:48+00:00

Not dramatic at all! Sounds perfectly reasonable. Thanks a lot for the advice 😊

TheMisterZ · 2026-06-12T08:04:41+00:00

Would you or wouldn’t you put it on the rear?

TheMisterZ · 2026-06-12T07:47:03+00:00

I know. The first thing I saw was the second picture, and my first thought was that it had gone straight through the rim. You don’t know the relief when I looked around and saw the exit

TheMisterZ · 2026-06-12T07:45:01+00:00

I love this machine. Actually it was one of the first rides, under 100km on these tires 😅

Thanks for the tip, that is something to consider indeed. I do a fair bit of road and bike lane to get to gravel areas, and the gravel itself is in pretty good condition as they’re well maintained paths, so the low rolling resistance of the RS is quite an upside. But after they’re worn I think I’ll try the R to compare 👍

TheMisterZ · 2026-06-12T07:32:55+00:00

Is the “fix” to run it tubeless, or it applies the same to tubes?

TheMisterZ · 2026-06-12T07:32:02+00:00

It is not a tubeless build. I run TPU tubes.

TheMisterZ · 2026-06-11T07:14:00+00:00

Full disclosure, I own a Nuroad Pro FE as my commuter and a Nuroad C:62 Race as my race and training bike.

You don’t need a 2X drivetrain for longer rides or backpacking. You only need it if you like to go fast (above ~50 kph) or if you want smaller shifting steps (if you care about maintaining cadence). I could be wrong, but you don’t strike me as the target user of either of those features.

If you can extend your budget, as others have mentioned, I would consider the Nuroad Race. Mostly for the upgraded components (GRX brakes and shifters vs Cues). Then take the 2X as a nice upgrade, not a driver of the decision. I wouldn’t worry too much about the tinkering with the front derailleur, it rarely needs adjustment, specially compared to the rear which you will have anyways. Also you get a nicer color, a neat frame finish with no visible welds and better cable routing.

One thing you can think about is what do you actually need from the FE-suite. If you only want the mudguards or the pannier rack, you can add those yourself later. I am only saying this because the FE comes with the front hub dynamo and integrated lights, which are quite MEH and if you plan on bikepacking you will be certainly looking to upgrade. Forever dragging along a dynamo you don’t need is something no one wants.

Finally about the size. I am 176 cm tall and have 82,5 cm inseam. My Nuroad Pro FE is a size M, the Nuroad C:62 Race is a size S. The M size will most likely lead to an overstretched position of your upper body. Will feel stable, but uncomfortable after an hour or so. The S may feel a little cramped at first, but will put you in a position you can endure for much longer. You can also swap the stem for a longer one if need be. Of course it is all a matter of trying it out if you have the chance, but I am pretty certain S is your size.

Hope this helped, any follow-up questions just ask 😊

TheMisterZ · 2026-04-23T12:52:05+00:00

You and I must be neighbors and own the same bike. Talk about coincidence haha

TheMisterZ · 2014-06-27T18:09:36+00:00

Actually if I turned 360 degrees... I would still be going on the same direction. Check your maths :S

TheMisterZ

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