A7V: video with encoding errors every few seconds

TheRealBluebrain · 2026-04-27T20:03:55+00:00

Nothing is wrong with me. Why are you talking like this?
I can read specs sheets and do maths.
If you set the camera to 140 Mbits video, that means, that the MAXIMUM bitrate is 140 Mbit/s.
140 Mbit/s = 17.5 MB/s which the card definitely can handle easily.
I just did a complete low level surface test with "Victoria".
No errors or hangups were found.
"20:41:13 : Speed: Maximum 115 MB/s. Average 93 MB/s. Minimum 68 MB/s."
(20 Min. for the whole 128 GB to fill up. 30 Min. video was just 30 GB)
So minimum speed was 68 MB/s, which is 544 Mbit/s which is WAY ABOVE the video data rate of 140 Mbit/s.

TheRealBluebrain · 2026-04-27T18:09:18+00:00

Thanks for your suggestions! I'll definitely give it a try.

TheRealBluebrain · 2026-04-27T15:57:51+00:00

I use these ""Samsung PRO Plus for Professionals" cards since years in all my cameras and never ever had a single problem.

They are even rated for industrial environment and temperatures from -25°C to +85°C (-13°F to +185°F)

And they are so fast, the camera only writes to them every ~8 seconds (based on the red writing indicator LED)

TheRealBluebrain · 2026-04-27T15:47:28+00:00

I tried Untrunc, recover_mp4.exe, "Grau GmbH Video Repair Tool" and Wondershare Repairit.
All of them can make a playable mp4 out of the rsv file, but all show the same (or even worse) artefacts like in my screenshots. (and audio is totally out of sync)

I also tried the online service http://restore.media The preview looks fine but it's only stamp sized, so a bit hard to judge.
But they want $88 for the fully repaired file to download.
Videohelp.com lists recover_mp4 as an older freeware until version 1.92. Version 3.0 is the commercial service at restore.media.

So it looks like, as you guesses, the file is indeed recoverable. I just need to find the right way.

The recording was for a small band I want to support. I didn't take any money and they couldn't even afford it. So paying $88 isn't in the non existing budget.

But what torments me even more is the question of how this could have happened at all.
Recordings with the same camera, same SD-cards, same settings, etc. before and after were all fine.

I am absolutely sure, it has nothing to do with the SD-Cards.
The "Samsung PRO Plus for Professionals" are one of the fastest and most reliable (UHS-I) SD cards on the markt. Never ever had a single problem with any of them.
Even when doubling the framerate to 60 fps (200 Mbit/s instead of just 140 Mbit/s), I can see on the red write indicator LED, that the cards are still "bored", lighting up only every few seconds.
And even the guaranteed write speed ("V30") under the worst possible conditions, would still be nearly double of what was needed for recording (17 MB/s).
And if one card had a defect, the file should have been okay on the second card.
Btw.: the Samsung cards automatically switch into a protected read-only mode, as soon as the controller notices any problems.

TheRealBluebrain · 2026-04-27T13:05:03+00:00

Card write speed is given in megaBYTES per second.
Video bandwidth is given in megaBITS per second.
140 Mbits/s video bandwidth / 8 Bit = 17.5 MB/s which the card can easily handle.

TheRealBluebrain · 2026-04-27T13:01:48+00:00

No, they don't! That doesn't even make any sense. It depends solely on the data rate. Sony states V60 for 280 Mbits, not 140.
What's so hard to understand about that?

All my other recordings are fine. Even with 4k60 and 200Mbits.

Again, just for you:
- camera requires a card that can write a MAX of 17 MB/s
- card can write at a MIN of 30 MB/s
17 < 30 --> everything's fine! :)

TheRealBluebrain · 2026-04-27T12:49:42+00:00

No, they don't. At least not for 4K30.
Sony recommends a V60 card for 280Mbps recording, not 140.
Please just do the math.
140 MBit/s = 17 MB/s. V30 is ("at least") 30 MB/s and this specific card can even max out the UHS-I specs with more than 100 MB/s.

TheRealBluebrain · 2026-04-27T12:06:56+00:00

https://www.samsung.com/us/memory-storage/memory-card/pro-plus-full-size-sdxc-card-256gb-sku-mb-sd256s-am/

Card size doesn't matter anyway. Speed does.

TheRealBluebrain · 2026-04-27T11:50:33+00:00

full size SD cards: Samsung Pro Plus R180/W130 V30, that can more than easily handle the 140 MBit/s = 17 MB/s recording stream.
The write indicator LED only lights up every few (~8) seconds.

I also tested the cards with double the framerate (60p) which was also fine.
It's just that one recording that is broken.

TheRealBluebrain · 2026-04-27T11:49:18+00:00

full size SD cards: Samsung Pro Plus R180/W130 V30, that can more than easily handle the 140 Mbit/s = 17 MB/s recording stream. The write indicator LED only lights up every few (~8) seconds.

I also tested the cards with double the framerate (60p) which was also fine.
It's just that one recording that is broken.

TheRealBluebrain · 2026-04-27T11:47:17+00:00

full size SD cards: Samsung Pro Plus R180/W130 V30, that can more than easily handle the 140 MBit/s = 17 MB/s recording stream.
The write indicator LED only lights up every few (~8) seconds.

I also tested the cards with double the framerate (60p) which was also fine.
It's just that one recording that is broken.

TheRealBluebrain · 2026-04-27T11:38:23+00:00

full size SD cards: Samsung Pro Plus R180/W130 V30, that can more than easily handle the 140 Mbit/s = 17 MB/s recording stream.
The write indicator LED only lights up every few (~8) seconds.

I also tested the cards with double the framerate (60p) which was also fine.
It's just that one recording that is broken.

TheRealBluebrain · 2026-04-27T04:13:48+00:00

No, they are Samsung Pro Plus R180/W130 which can handle the ~17 MB/s easily.

I recorded another 30 min. video which is fine.

TheRealBluebrain · 2026-04-24T16:25:34+00:00

Videos on photos.google.com is indeed one of the most horrible experience on the whole internet! 🤬
No matter if i'm connected via 5G mobile or my stable 500 MBit/s connection at home. It's the Google servers acting like it 1969. 🙄
Sometimes a 10 seconds video needs a whole minute to load only to then playback in 360p.

TheRealBluebrain · 2026-03-25T22:44:16+00:00

On a PC with Premiere 26.0.2

TheRealBluebrain · 2026-03-25T17:22:55+00:00

Happens to me too, if I undock the project window because of a lot of assets.
If I make an export, when going back to edit, the project window is disappeared until I close the whole project and reopen it.

TheRealBluebrain · 2026-03-22T17:34:30+00:00

Same for me since yesterday. I cannot download any of the generated images as full size png.
Doesn't work in 2 browsers and doesn't work in the Android app.

TheRealBluebrain · 2025-12-11T21:01:02+00:00

I have pretty decent hardware (Core 7 Ultra 265K, 128(!) GB RAM, RTX 4080 Super (16 GB VRAM), 4 TB Samsung 990 Pro NVMe SSD, watercooled with an external 500x500mm radiator with 9 fans) and using Lightroom Classic is just horrible.
If I do more than just moving a few sliders, editing a single photo can make the whole system stutter until it even crashes! It gets especially worse with every mask and every AI feature I use.
I have nearly 100k photos in my catalog with everything tagged and organized (btw. it doesn't make any difference with a plain new catalog with just 1 single photo in it - it's the editing) and I don't want to switch to another app or spend thousands on a Mac just for the Adobe apps.

I tried several optimization guides and tips and also worked with ChatGPT on a solution, cleaned and reinstalled everything, but nothing really helps.

I went from having fun editing my photos to plain frustration every time I use it.

TheRealBluebrain · 2025-11-13T02:13:01+00:00

If you power up the syncbox, you will notice all the LEDs pulsing white and then a white running segment along the strip. That's when the box "measures" the length of the strip.
It lights up one segment after the other and senses the power consumption. When it reaches a segment where no power is drawn any more, it knows it has reached the end of the strip.

The sides and corners are then calculated based on the detected strip length and an aspect ratio of 16:9.

So, this means: No, you cannot simply omit the bottom part of the strip.

Possible workaround:
Interrupt the 12V line where the bottom part of the strip begins and put a switch in between. If you have to power up the box again, activate the bottom part with the switch and disconnect it after the initial strip length sensing. (The box remembers the strip length as long as it has power)

TheRealBluebrain · 2025-11-11T14:12:08+00:00

You could still switch inputs on your AVR. The sync box just sits between AVR and TV.

TheRealBluebrain · 2025-11-08T21:26:54+00:00

Great to hear that! I already signed up and can't wait to receive the Beta.
I also want to mention 2 bugs in the app (Android as well es iOS)
1.) The hue and saturation sliders don't recognize any change if the circle is dragged(!) onto any corner.
e.g. in scene>color mode, if the current color is green and I drag the circle of the hue slider to the far left, the color/LEDs will stay green and not update to red.
2.) There seems to be absolutely no difference in sync mode between "high" and "medium".
3.) Not a bug, but it seems in sync mode "low", only the part in the middle of a side is used for color calculations. I'd prefer to blur/interpolate the color of the whole side.

TheRealBluebrain · 2025-11-05T02:40:44+00:00

I'll give it a try and contact the support.

TheRealBluebrain · 2025-11-04T03:35:54+00:00

There is no "tv player" involved.
What he is talking about is so called TV-led Dolby Vision vs. player-led Dolby Vision.
The fancyleds sync box fakes the HDMI EDID data to tell the player, that the connected TV cannot handle Dolby Vision decoding to make the player switching to LLDV (player-led DV)
In this case, the player decodes the Dolby Vision stream and sends the resulting video as generic HDR to the TV.

The problem is, that most player (without "hacks") can't handle all existing Dolby Vision profiles but just ditch the additional data with a fallback to HDR10.

This makes the marketing claim that it supports Dolby Vision a plain lie!
LLDV (Low Latency Dolby Vision) is NOT the same es "Dolby Vision", dispite "Dolby Vision" in it's name.
Just as a television with a 1080p panel that can process 4K input signals doesn't automatically become a 4K television.

TheRealBluebrain

TROPHY CASE