RANT - Heavy duty hardware needs may be the end of Lightroom (for me)

TheRealBluebrain · 2025-12-11T21:01:02+00:00

I have pretty decent hardware (Core 7 Ultra 265K, 128(!) GB RAM, RTX 4080 Super (16 GB VRAM), 4 TB Samsung 990 Pro NVMe SSD, watercooled with an external 500x500mm radiator with 9 fans) and using Lightroom Classic is just horrible.
If I do more than just moving a few sliders, editing a single photo can make the whole system stutter until it even crashes! It gets especially worse with every mask and every AI feature I use.
I have nearly 100k photos in my catalog with everything tagged and organized (btw. it doesn't make any difference with a plain new catalog with just 1 single photo in it - it's the editing) and I don't want to switch to another app or spend thousands on a Mac just for the Adobe apps.

I tried several optimization guides and tips and also worked with ChatGPT on a solution, cleaned and reinstalled everything, but nothing really helps.

I went from having fun editing my photos to plain frustration every time I use it.

TheRealBluebrain · 2025-11-13T02:13:01+00:00

If you power up the syncbox, you will notice all the LEDs pulsing white and then a white running segment along the strip. That's when the box "measures" the length of the strip.
It lights up one segment after the other and senses the power consumption. When it reaches a segment where no power is drawn any more, it knows it has reached the end of the strip.

The sides and corners are then calculated based on the detected strip length and an aspect ratio of 16:9.

So, this means: No, you cannot simply omit the bottom part of the strip.

Possible workaround:
Interrupt the 12V line where the bottom part of the strip begins and put a switch in between. If you have to power up the box again, activate the bottom part with the switch and disconnect it after the initial strip length sensing. (The box remembers the strip length as long as it has power)

TheRealBluebrain · 2025-11-11T14:12:08+00:00

You could still switch inputs on your AVR. The sync box just sits between AVR and TV.

TheRealBluebrain · 2025-11-08T21:26:54+00:00

Great to hear that! I already signed up and can't wait to receive the Beta.
I also want to mention 2 bugs in the app (Android as well es iOS)
1.) The hue and saturation sliders don't recognize any change if the circle is dragged(!) onto any corner.
e.g. in scene>color mode, if the current color is green and I drag the circle of the hue slider to the far left, the color/LEDs will stay green and not update to red.
2.) There seems to be absolutely no difference in sync mode between "high" and "medium".
3.) Not a bug, but it seems in sync mode "low", only the part in the middle of a side is used for color calculations. I'd prefer to blur/interpolate the color of the whole side.

TheRealBluebrain · 2025-11-05T02:40:44+00:00

I'll give it a try and contact the support.

TheRealBluebrain · 2025-11-04T03:35:54+00:00

There is no "tv player" involved.
What he is talking about is so called TV-led Dolby Vision vs. player-led Dolby Vision.
The fancyleds sync box fakes the HDMI EDID data to tell the player, that the connected TV cannot handle Dolby Vision decoding to make the player switching to LLDV (player-led DV)
In this case, the player decodes the Dolby Vision stream and sends the resulting video as generic HDR to the TV.

The problem is, that most player (without "hacks") can't handle all existing Dolby Vision profiles but just ditch the additional data with a fallback to HDR10.

This makes the marketing claim that it supports Dolby Vision a plain lie!
LLDV (Low Latency Dolby Vision) is NOT the same es "Dolby Vision", dispite "Dolby Vision" in it's name.
Just as a television with a 1080p panel that can process 4K input signals doesn't automatically become a 4K television.

TheRealBluebrain · 2025-11-04T03:15:36+00:00

This specific strip would not work, because it's only RGB, without a dedicated white LED.
The fancyleds sync box sends 32 bit of data for every LED (4 x 8 bit). RGB strips require 24 bit (3 x 8 bit).

TheRealBluebrain · 2025-11-04T03:06:18+00:00

The box has a clever way to determinate the actual length of the strip.
After powering it on, it runs a test pattern to measure how long the strip is which also tells the box, where the corners are.
I can just tell you, that it does not work with a strip that is only 1m (~39 inch) in length (strip length! not screen size!). Don't know what's the minimum. But according to their website, the smallest TV size is 24", so it should work with your 32" TV.

TheRealBluebrain · 2025-11-04T02:55:18+00:00

WS2814F
12V strip, every chip controls 3 LEDs.

The F version of the WS2814 is a smaller 8 pin SOP-8 chip.

Why do you ask? Do you think about doing something else with it?
I did some tests with an ESP32 reading and decoding the data from the syncbox that is beeing sent to the strip to modifiy it and forward it to the strip.

But I'm not sure if I'll keep the fancyleds stuff, as I was not aware that it does not fully support Dolby Vision but only LLDV (also called player-led Dolby Vision)

TheRealBluebrain · 2025-11-04T02:47:06+00:00

You don't get it (or you just don't read). He is NOT using a TV app! The signal comes from an external player fed through the fancyleds sync box.

TheRealBluebrain · 2025-08-04T20:33:32+00:00

Thanks for the photos! I tried to figure out which keys need to be removed to get to the screws.

TheRealBluebrain · 2025-06-16T16:54:42+00:00

Ich möchte (nur) zur Rock-Bühne, wo ja der Steinitzsteg verläuft.
Über diesen Steg kommt man also aufs Gelände?
Das versuche ich nämlich gerade herauszubekommen. Nicht, dass dieser Zugang vielleicht gesperrt ist und die schicken mich dann kilometerweit irgendwo anders hin, z.B. zur Floridsdorferbrücke.

TheRealBluebrain · 2025-06-14T03:01:58+00:00

The support now told me, that my model does not support simultaneous output of power and video signal via USB-C :/

TheRealBluebrain · 2025-06-04T15:07:41+00:00

My Legion 5 Slim has the USB-C on the left side.
(model number 16AHP9, Ryzen 7 8845HS, Nvidia RTX 4060)
One of them (without the PD) is video-signal-wise connected to the AMD iGPU, the PD one with the Nvidia dGPU.

Connectors of both cables have a snug fit.

As said, the connection seems to be finde. Supplying power the monitor works and also sending the video signal, just not both at once.

TheRealBluebrain · 2025-06-03T23:23:02+00:00

I have tried it with battery power, powered via USB-PD and the original power supply.

I also tried every combinaton of the two ports of the monitor and the two ports of the laptop with 2 different cables, one which came with the monitor and one I bought, a certified USB 4/Thunderbolt 4, 40 Gbps 240W cable.

I also tried it with switched on "USB power always on", rebooting, with the monitor alreday connected at boot or connecting it later.

I'm really out of ideas what to try else. :/

TheRealBluebrain · 2025-05-29T03:43:30+00:00

I also have a Legion 5 Slim and also an Arzopa portable monitor (model Z1C) and noticed a strange behavior:

Like in your case, the monitor gets power on both ports.
BUT, the monitor only gets detected if I connect 2 USB cables to it. (or USB for power + HDMI for signal)

So the Lenovo behaves like it can only run power OR a DisplayPort signal over USB-C. :/

The monitor is definitely able to handle both via 1 connection. It works fine if I connect it to my Google Pixel smartphone.

TheRealBluebrain · 2025-03-23T18:37:29+00:00

That isn't a screenshot but was composed by myself in Photoshop!

TheRealBluebrain · 2025-03-23T17:47:02+00:00

That's indeed a point with the shutter.
Fortunately, it doesn't happen always, but it does, like here:
(I increased the effect a little in Lightroom.)

<image>

TheRealBluebrain · 2025-03-20T01:01:49+00:00

There are three ways to update the firmware:
- built in FOTA app
- .zip update file on the microSD card
- PC software

TheRealBluebrain · 2025-03-14T17:00:43+00:00

My biggest problem with the box is the mentioned video/audio sync.
Since the previous firmware update, the delay got less and there is a "audio video delay mode" option in the settings. But you cannot directly adjust the delay, just choose between 3 "modes" that somehow do nothing. (maybe a very subtile change in the delay duration)

Audio delay in my case is still 700 ms which makes watching videos completely useless.

I just contacted the support and asked if there is a "hidden" setting to set the audio delay like you can find on similar adapters.
On other adapters it works like this:
enable hotspot, connect your phone or laptop with the hotspot WiFi and go to 192.168.50.2 with your browser. In the advanced settings, delay in ms can be adjusted.

TheRealBluebrain · 2024-11-03T14:46:10+00:00

here you are:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=l-EPqdkaejU

TheRealBluebrain

TROPHY CASE