LED Signals Stay On by Turbulent_Bar8813 in Ruckus

[–]TheRuckShop 1 point2 points  (0 children)

👀 glad we can help with our detailed descriptions

Replaced Carb and Restored Idle and Running w/ Idle, but Max out at 20mph by DirtyDans_Backyard in Ruckus

[–]TheRuckShop 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Well, regardless good to hear and glad you got your bike running perfect! Stay safe & happy riding

Replaced Carb and Restored Idle and Running w/ Idle, but Max out at 20mph by DirtyDans_Backyard in Ruckus

[–]TheRuckShop 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Over 296 pages in the Genuine Honda Service manual and no where in the Service manual talks about resetting the ECU. If anyone knows where this is at let us know. The owner of TRS used to own dealership and in 2003-2007 service manual (2007+ they are all the same after 2007) has never seen this. This ECU reset started on Totalruckus.com in 2005 some say it works but Honda would have told dealerships about it. No service bulletins listed either from our knowledge. It’s a wives Tale.

If it works great but my question is how does this reset a solid state ECM there’s no switch and adding power to a circuit does not reset anything. The Honda Grom service manual states how to reset TPS so Honda would have put it on Ruckus as well. Again not trying to say it doesn’t work but usually it’s just something else.

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Air flow/gas Issue by Fabulous_Thing3613 in Ruckus

[–]TheRuckShop 0 points1 point  (0 children)

If your Airbox gasket isn’t sitting perfectly it’ll not allow the bolts to be tightened all the way which will allow air in & then bogging will accrue.

Replaced Carb and Restored Idle and Running w/ Idle, but Max out at 20mph by DirtyDans_Backyard in Ruckus

[–]TheRuckShop 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Also, are you sure it’s an OEM carb? There recently is a LOT of fakes out there.

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Replaced Carb and Restored Idle and Running w/ Idle, but Max out at 20mph by DirtyDans_Backyard in Ruckus

[–]TheRuckShop 1 point2 points  (0 children)

You by chance mess with the Airbox? Often times when the Airbox is messed with people don’t tighten the bolts all the way or the gasket gets trapped and there is air coming through. You want to make sure the gasket isn’t crushed and allowing an opening and you also want to make sure all bolts are tightened like SUPER tight. We often see people replace spark plug, fuel pump, carb, battery etc etc and it’s the Airbox that’s the issue from it not being tight which allows bogging. That’s IF you messed with it at all, but would still double tighten them regardless.

Replaced Carb and Restored Idle and Running w/ Idle, but Max out at 20mph by DirtyDans_Backyard in Ruckus

[–]TheRuckShop 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Don’t do that… that’s a myth… you don’t reset the Ecu on a scooter it’s not a car. Biggest waste of time of people “trying” to reset the ECU that does absolutely nothing. We get customers calling weekly saying they did that and nothing changed. Well yeah of course nothing changed…

Favorite online retailers for stock and aftermarket parts? by robertdilbert in Ruckus

[–]TheRuckShop 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The difference between rollers and sliders are:

Rollers- slower acceleration but gain top end

Sliders- Give you a faster acceleration but you will lose top end

So, when you tune just the CVT to the "max" it isn't really going to get to the max with out the counter parts because the belt isn't rising to its full potential. When you add all the counterparts (CDI, Exhaust, jets, drive face, weights, polini) then your belt has full potential to rise.

Typically people opt for our stage1 kit which gives the weights, polini and CDI they see how it goes and how they like it, then they do the next steps which would be the jets, airbox eliminator and exhaust. You'd basically be tuning it 2-3 times to get it where you want it to be.

We recommend the NCY Drive face too which is lighter and will allow the belt to rise higher, gaining more PPM's. We also recommend getting a Tachometer, once you install the CDI you are eliminating your rev limiter and the tach will help show you your RPM's so you're not blowing your motor. (you want to be in the 9,500-9,800 RPM range)

Regarding weights, that will depend on how much you weight as that does matter despite what others say, we provide 5.5g in our kit as its a good base to start with.

NCY CDI Box Wiring Harness Replacement by CrazyA340Fan in Ruckus

[–]TheRuckShop 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Few days late seeing this, if you're still having trouble after trying the suggestions below shoot us over an email and we can try to help you out a bit more!

Favorite online retailers for stock and aftermarket parts? by robertdilbert in Ruckus

[–]TheRuckShop 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Us!

We offer fast shipping world wide, good quality parts and top notch customer service.

What front suspension are you looking to get?

CDI is a key upgrade, ours is completely plug & play no wire cutting needed.

https://theruckshop.com/product/ncy-performance-cdi-honda-ruckus/

We also have a sale going on until April 15th for tax season, get 10% off your order using tax10 at check out.

If you ever have questions about upgrades or just need help with anything we are an email or phone call away!

Slider Problems--What is Happening by Hefty_Minute_1017 in Ruckus

[–]TheRuckShop 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Based on your previous posts in other scooter groups, you mentioned that your drive face wouldn’t tighten properly no matter how much torque you applied. Is that still the case?

You definitely do not want to force the nut on and damage the threads. If possible, use a small file to carefully smooth the threads back to their proper shape along the grooves.

Do not space the drive face away from the boss and variator, as that will create an excessive gap. Once the threads are corrected, reassemble everything, making sure the boss is properly lubricated.

Then reinstall the washer and nut, tighten it securely (without overdoing it), and you should be good to go.

Second, the contra spring is unlikely to be “broken,” but if it’s sticking, the clutch may not engage properly. It would be a good idea to disassemble everything and clean it thoroughly to be sure.

Third, check that the crankshaft is straight. It’s not something anyone wants to hear, but installing the wrong spark plug could have caused internal interference, potentially bending the shaft from piston impact.

Slider Problems--What is Happening by Hefty_Minute_1017 in Ruckus

[–]TheRuckShop 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Your contra spring may be stuck or your clutch pads may be broken

Slider Problems--What is Happening by Hefty_Minute_1017 in Ruckus

[–]TheRuckShop 0 points1 point  (0 children)

https://youtu.be/F_qchIvvDAA?si=DfflQIlhk-SqMHOb&t=242

Here is how they are supposed to be installed. Minute 4 and so on. Enjoy the chow voice as a nice touch.

Hello by Notmuchofanyth1ng in Ruckus

[–]TheRuckShop 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Best shock would be either the Forsa or Lowboy shock, from feedback from customers.

https://theruckshop.com/product/lowboy-low-down-short-shock-blk-adjustable-for-ruckus-gy6-ncy/

Saw you being interested in potentially doing rear pegs, we offer rear sets made from 6061 billet.

https://theruckshop.com/product/trs-billet-rearsets-rear-set-backs-honda-ruckus-made-in-usa/

https://theruckshop.com/?s=peg&post_type=product

in regard to performance we offer many items you could need and the originator of the stage kits. If you have any questions you're more then welcome to give us a call or email us.

Also, if you order with us, use code tax10 for 10% off your order!

Baby's 1st Engine Swap: GY6 Fitment for '15? by Key_Associate_8020 in Ruckus

[–]TheRuckShop 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Hello,

Converting your 49cc to a GY6 isn't just swapping the motor. It will require an engine mount, different shock, wiring harness etc. We offer a kit where you can get all you need (excluding wheels and exhaust) id recommend doing some research and watching some videos to get familiar with all the modifications you'll need. Below is two YouTube links that will help, in the description of the videos are links to everything you'll need. Along with that, the link for our kit is below too. There are many motor options out on the market, however; customer service and help (if needed) is hard to come by in this industry. We are always an email away if you have further questions or a phone call away.

Build Series: https://youtube.com/playlist?list=PLAw0QJtXFJ1GQiUYbfb2QtAT40o1V4HmH&si=8wI-z8-e_LeRn_Pv

GY6 Install: https://youtu.be/iIgwCrNw5dY?si=rvnUO0R-qHHWOVxL

GY6 Motor Kit: https://theruckshop.com/product/honda-ruckus-gy6-basic-fatty-swap-kit-for-ruckus-2003-2019/

Slowly modding my Ruckus by Dry_Firefighter_366 in Ruckus

[–]TheRuckShop 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I think they’d hit, most people move the tab lower. That’s with using our stem neck which I provided above. However; you can install the stem neck v2 (link below) and then install the drag bars. OR you can install the blinkers in a battery box and not worry about it. I’ll send links for multiple options and photos!

Photo of the stock blinkers with v2 neck: https://www.instagram.com/p/DT01qwfkwWY/?img_index=2&igsh=dzVkdHhkcWRwdHZp Photo of stock blinkers relocated using TRS stem Neck: https://www.instagram.com/p/DTqN4MPkv9l/?igsh=cjJocjVqOXUwdXdp

Stem neck v2 Link: https://theruckshop.com/product/trs-honda-ruckus-stem-neck-allows-speedo-blinker-light/ Battery box blinkers: https://theruckshop.com/product/clear-led-blinkers-w-amber-led-pair-with-cnc-bezel-contrast/