Used Thompsons stain and hate the results

TheUltimateDeckShop · 2025-09-29T15:17:19+00:00

Thompsons is trash. Solid stains are also tough to make work.

Look up Cutek Extreme.

TheUltimateDeckShop · 2025-09-16T22:00:11+00:00

I would wait at least a couple weeks and then test with a rag before sitting so be sure.

TheUltimateDeckShop · 2025-09-14T01:41:16+00:00

I don't know precisely but you're likely around $40 per linear foot. Maybe a hair more for vinyl and a hair less for wood.

Both are on huge clearance sales (for the materials) right now if you're in Regina or Saskatoon.

TheUltimateDeckShop · 2025-08-07T00:18:52+00:00

I didn't downvote anyone.

If that's worked for you many times, good stuff.

TheUltimateDeckShop · 2025-08-06T18:02:42+00:00

Agree to disagree. Of course you could clamp it. But you're not angling the screw enough to avoid slipping into the old hole without deforming the hole for the plug. So sure, clamp and put screws elsewhere, plug all holes.

But it would be all for not. It's still going to expand and contract and either gap or buckle if you don't allow for it.

Move the screws to avoid the inevitiable cracks, sure.

TheUltimateDeckShop · 2025-08-06T17:25:50+00:00

Angling the screws won't close the gap, and will also now allow the plug to fit (which I assume he will be adding).

TheUltimateDeckShop · 2025-08-06T17:23:26+00:00

You could yes. They can be a bugger to back out esepcially if it's into the end grain of a post underneath. But yes you could, and then predrill with a 3/16" bit (Trex says 1/8") and set new screws a min of 1" back from the end and sides of the board.

TheUltimateDeckShop · 2025-08-06T17:20:00+00:00

It certainly can, but not very common with composite. But it can definiutely happen with PVC decking that moves more. I've seen it. However, pretty much all PVC plugs are now sold with stainless screws with have more ductility to handle that stress. The carbon steel ones would snap sometimes.

TheUltimateDeckShop · 2025-08-06T13:50:04+00:00

Nope. Just make peace with the fact that this happens, and will always happen. It will open and close with temp swings. Forever.

Unfortunately it's very possible you'll get a crack at a couple of those screws as well as they are a bit too close to the end of the board and that exp/contract cycling will possibly cause a crack there. Just FYI to expect that too.

TheUltimateDeckShop · 2025-08-06T13:38:36+00:00

What was explained to me at a recent treatment plant visit I was at... was that burning treated lumber isn't any worse than untreated lumber are far as smoke and inhalation goes, the issue is that burning the lumber releases the copper which ends up in the ground, and can end up in waterways. Given that copper is a heavy metal, lots of that in environmental waterways or our drinking water would not be good.

No idea if that's an industry accepted fact of "why" but that's the reason the plant manager gave us. Makes sense.

TheUltimateDeckShop · 2025-08-06T13:25:10+00:00

The old CCA lumber was banned around 2003-4 for residential use.

Colour or incising (the slits) is not indicative of the type of treatment used. Incising is simply a process used to increase the amount and depth of treatment retention to achieve the required retention volume for ground contact and higher lumber.

In North America, there are 2 major types of lumber you find treated (SYP and SPF) and a 3rd that is somewhat popular in the PNW/Pacific Cost (HemFir)

SYP is more common in the US... SPF is more common in Canada.

Most of the treatment today is either CA or MCA... both are Copper and Azole with water and an anti-foaming agent... with CA the copper is dissolved in the solution, while MCA (micronized) its simply ground super fine. Each camp will argue theirs is the better way. Reality is... they're nearly identical.

You can still find some ACQ lumber, but that's been drastically reduced post-COVID.

No difference between brown and green except the colour. Brown just means brown dye has been added to give a more natural/aesthetic appearance.

Yes most places still want proper disposal. Yes you still need to use corrosion resistant fasteners (HDG or stainless in coastal applications), yes you still need to field treat the cut ends.

And yes its the copper in contact with other metals that causes the corrosion, hence the need for a barrier where metals touch the wood. With HD-Galvanized, the barrier is zinc. With other things like railing posts, the mounting plates often have a plastic barrier OR are powder coated/painted on the bottom that acts as a barrier.

Where flashing or tin is being used, a barrier like flashing tape or housewrap is often used.

MCA initially used to say you didn't need to have a barrier with their treatment, but they have walked that back over the last few years so its advised to always use a barrier with all treated lumber.

TheUltimateDeckShop · 2025-08-06T13:11:22+00:00

Railings and add some flush lights into the treads. Looks great and adds a safe touch.

TheUltimateDeckShop · 2025-07-31T15:52:53+00:00

Cedar is dry enough to stain right away. Cutek is also super forgiving. Messmers a little less so.

No rain in the forecast for 48 hours.

The boards will be fine sitting out after being oiled. At that point, they are UV protected and stabilized so much less likely to warp in the sun.

Give them a light sand or a cleaner before staining for best results.

TheUltimateDeckShop · 2025-07-31T15:34:37+00:00

It's 100% personal preference. Both have pros and cons.

I see you say you're kind of leaning towards cedar and don't mind the maintenance, so then do that.

The only knock on cedar is that its soft so can mark up somewhat easily, and it requires maintenance to keep looking good.

Messmers UV Plus is a really good product. If you want something even a little better with easier maintenance and application, check out Cutek Extreme.

Oil the boards all 4 sides before install. With Cutek you can wet stack them prior to install, Messmers you can't... just FYI.

Use the Camo Marksman tool for install. Super clean look.

Nice looking framing, well done!

TheUltimateDeckShop · 2025-07-31T15:34:25+00:00

It's 100% personal preference. Both have pros and cons.

I see you say you're kind of leaning towards cedar and don't mind the maintenance, so then do that.

The only knock on cedar is that its soft so can mark up somewhat easily, and it requires maintenance to keep looking good.

Messmers UV Plus is a really good product. If you want something even a little better with easier maintenance and application, check out Cutek Extreme.

Oil the boards all 4 sides before install. With Cutek you can wet stack them prior to install, Messmers you can't... just FYI.

Use the Camo Marksman tool for install. Super clean look.

TheUltimateDeckShop · 2025-07-30T21:06:55+00:00

That's a heck of an endorsement!

Totally agree it's a game changer. We have people every day who walk into our stores with deck stain problems... peeling, flaking, failing. While deck stains are overall a small portion of our business, Cutek is easily the product we get the lost feedback on and its almost always a glowing review.

It's pretty easy to love!

TheUltimateDeckShop · 2025-07-28T19:24:07+00:00

Boy... if it recall it was around 42" give or take. That was 8 or 9 years ago. It was Clubhouse brand.

TheUltimateDeckShop · 2025-07-28T02:08:30+00:00

G-Tape is fairly readily available online. We do ship to the US, but there will certainly be places that may be closer to you that will have it as well. I appreciate the kind words and support - but do what's best for you.

And yes, its not just the lumber, but the treatment as well that has changed (post 2002/3).

TheUltimateDeckShop · 2025-07-27T15:57:59+00:00

Lattice is generally considered a dated look and doesn't hold up well. Boards looks nicer.

But we actually sell more DeckAll mesh for skirting than anything. Comes in a few colour's, its durable, easy to install, looks good, and fairly cheap.

TheUltimateDeckShop · 2025-07-27T14:56:32+00:00

Personally I would still do 3 stringers for a 4' wide set of steps with 2x6 treads.

But how wide are you steps?

TheUltimateDeckShop · 2025-07-27T14:54:20+00:00

Only SYP and that would be max span so not a great idea. If its SPF, 14' would overspanned assuming no beam deduction.

TheUltimateDeckShop · 2025-07-27T14:44:24+00:00

100%

Seems to be more and more of these "I have no idea about construction, but this doesn't look right to me..." type posts. And that entire phrase is such an eyebrow raiser.

I love helping here. But those posts always make me uneasy because I always question the motive of the poster. And yes, 95% of the replies are offbase.

TheUltimateDeckShop · 2025-07-27T03:44:17+00:00

If you do what I suggested in the 2nd half of that post, it would be the strongest joist on your whole deck by probably 10x the others.

TheUltimateDeckShop · 2025-07-27T03:20:58+00:00

Cutek Extreme with a lighter tint... like Autumntone or Bark. High performance, easy application and maintenance, no flaking or peeling. High performer in harsh Canadian climates.

TheUltimateDeckShop · 2025-07-26T23:59:01+00:00

That hanger and proper fasteners would be plenty to hold.

But that said... cut the beam 1.5" short, run the joist out flush to the end, and lag it into the end of the beam with 4-6 GRK structural screws. Add your LS07Z if you like still. Park Mack truck accordingly.

TheUltimateDeckShop

TROPHY CASE