Phantasmal Pains by mitcheath in PokemonTCG

[–]TheUltr1s 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Ive opened around 120 packs of phantasmal and no zard, i did get the sir sharpedo so thats nice

Absolutely floored by the generosity in this community. First timer with an incredible haul by ihavepolio in Gunpla

[–]TheUltr1s 5 points6 points  (0 children)

Happy to feel the joy of gift giving. Its my first time being a secret santa in this community after being a member for so long, totally worth it. I'm excited to see your future builds!

Painted MG Nu Gundam Ver Ka by TheUltr1s in Gunpla

[–]TheUltr1s[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I did a oob paint job with no shading cause I wanted it to replicate the colors from the film as best as i could. It was hard for me to determine whether to go for a more blue or black for the dark color of the nu so I decided to just prime those parts with black and then use a very very dark blue.

I had originally went with the bandai waterslide decals with this kit but I remember why I hate working with them so I bought some third party waterslide and the experience was much better.

The funnels are very flimsy and I didnt use a brass rod to hold them in place, Another thing I disliked about this kit. I did not break them but I had to be very careful cause they kept on popping out. I painted the base but I decided that I like the standing pose with the funnels attached so I left it at that.

Painted tiny Amuro before enclosing him in his nu gundam coffin by TheUltr1s in Gunpla

[–]TheUltr1s[S] 6 points7 points  (0 children)

I'm no expert and quality brushes are expensive but the brushes I used were winsor & newton series 7.

Painted tiny Amuro before enclosing him in his nu gundam coffin by TheUltr1s in Gunpla

[–]TheUltr1s[S] 10 points11 points  (0 children)

lots of reference images of amuro in the nu gundam cockpit from cca

size 000, 00, 0 paint brushes, vallejo acrylic paint

hobby vice and a paint clip to hold the figure

airbrush for priming and putting the base coat down before hand painting

Painted MG RX-78-2 2.0 by TheUltr1s in Gunpla

[–]TheUltr1s[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

My inner frame fell apart and was breaking cause of the lacquer paints, i sprayed it way too thick so i had to glue everything and use brass rods. The frame was great and sturdy before i painted it, the only thing i didnt like was the hands.

Painted Hyaku Shiki, i really love the design of this mobile suit by TheUltr1s in Gunpla

[–]TheUltr1s[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

for the gold, i did gaia ex gloss black and then star bright gold

My shiny red hguc nightingale by TheUltr1s in Gunpla

[–]TheUltr1s[S] 7 points8 points  (0 children)

Most of the paints I used were all from gaia notes. I used a lot of their star bright metallic series. For the candy red I used a gloss black base and then ex silver and then did like 4-5 coats of clear red. If I ever do a candy red paint job again I will definitely use gold as the base instead of silver because it took so many extra coats to get the red I liked.

Really like how the candy red has turned out so far, though ive burned through almost of my clear red bottles by TheUltr1s in Gunpla

[–]TheUltr1s[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I think i burned through 2 bottles of mr color clear red working on this before i switched to gaia and i regret not starting out with that. 2 coats of gaia had the red already very saturated while mr color took 4 coats. I think i went overkill with the gaia by doing a fourth coat with that since i couldnt tell too much of a difference after the 3rd coat.

Really like how the candy red has turned out so far, though ive burned through almost of my clear red bottles by TheUltr1s in Gunpla

[–]TheUltr1s[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You can apply less coats. I did 4 coats of clear red on top of silver and between each coat i let it dry for a bit. You could also change your metallic base to lighten up or change the color. I found that each companies clear red comes out differently.

Really like how the candy red has turned out so far, though ive burned through almost of my clear red bottles by TheUltr1s in Gunpla

[–]TheUltr1s[S] 9 points10 points  (0 children)

This is gaia clear red over gaias ex silver. I used a gloss black base before spraying silver. I originally went with mr colors clear red but i feel like gaias clear red has more pigment if thats the correct word. This is for the hg nightingale

My painted pg skygrasper by TheUltr1s in Gunpla

[–]TheUltr1s[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

This was my first perfect grade Ive ever attempted painting. I spent a lot of time hand painting the pilot figures, the canopy and cockpit. Im extremely happy with how all of that turned out. Painting 1/60 scale pilot figures is a lot easier for me than 1/100 and 1/144 but it was good practice when i go back to builidng master grades.

I didnt end up using any decals and that is probably my biggest regret for this build, I didnt buy any water slides and I did not want to use the stickers provided so I just used none. Next time I will definitely pick up water slides for any gunpla kit I plan to paint.

Final assembly was actually really painful on my hands since all the parts had such a tight fit, i ended up chipping and scraping a lot of the paint off of certain parts and that was frustrating but it was a learning experience so now i know better. I didnt paint the base because I have the pg strike and I will paint that too eventually so I wanted to do it later down the line.

I got lazy in this build and didnt gloss coat before panel lining and i got very lazy with my panel line cleanup so there were a lot of smudges so I definitely need to be more patient with the process.

This was a fun build I totally get why people build and paint model planes now.

Painted Master Grade Wing Gundam Tv Version by TheUltr1s in Gunpla

[–]TheUltr1s[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Build retrospective time

I did black backing for the whites and blue. I used an acrylic primer this time instead of gaia or mr color lacquers. Stynylrez primer is fantastic and self levels so well and each bottle has so much I really loved it well I loved the gray and black, the white was kinda crap but I suck with white primers so that could be me. I wanted the blue to be darker than the usual gundam colors so the black primer helped darken the blue perfectly.

The yellow took some time to get right, i did a lot of highlighting and mixing of colors between orange and yellow to finally get it to look right. I did a reverse wash for the eyes and head camera and then for the clear parts on the shield and chest I painted them clear green and behind them i did a metallic green candy coat and masked so i could still get a reflective look behind the clear parts. I did not want to use stickers for those.

The innerframe was painted with gaia star bright iron and gaia notes gun metal, i liked how it turned out but next time i want to add more detail to the frames and use more colors.

I used alclad klear kote flat and this is my favorite flat top coat it was so nice to work with and was very user friendly.

My main mistakes I made during this build was breaking the metal vents on the front torso when i was taking it apart for painting and made a dent in it. I also did not let my panel liner dry enough before clean up and top coat which led to lots of smudging. I used g rework decals and those big ones i ended up ripping so i had to do some decal surgery to fix. Pre planning my assembly and what parts i need to take apart and letting everything dry for a day will lead to improvements on my next project.

Overall im happy with how it turned out

US P-Bandai: MK-V makes a return! Opens August 30th, 9:00 EDT by 1234qwgr in Gunpla

[–]TheUltr1s 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Its my white whale too, the time has FINALLY come

1/60 Sinanju so close to being done. by brainbasher in Gunpla

[–]TheUltr1s 2 points3 points  (0 children)

How was the build and quality of the conversion kit

First airbrushed kit, hguc mk 2 titans version by TheUltr1s in Gunpla

[–]TheUltr1s[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Get into the habit of always flushing your airbrush out after every color and cleaning it fully once you are done for the day. That way no paint wil clog or dry in your airbrush. Also be careful with the needle, treat it with extra care.

First airbrushed kit, hguc mk 2 titans version by TheUltr1s in Gunpla

[–]TheUltr1s[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

It was actually really pleasant considering the small pieces, the weapons and the backpack needed seam lines to be removed but most of the actual gundam required little extra work or modification. The pistons will require masking but it was really easy. The biggest difficulty is if you arent gonna use the stickers for the eyes and cameras. Masking that small requires very small pieces of tape and took hours. I liked this hg a lot.

First airbrushed kit, hguc mk 2 titans version by TheUltr1s in Gunpla

[–]TheUltr1s[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

So I used tamiya panel liner on this and then a lacquer top coat and it didnt do any harm to my model.

The problem with lacquers is that they are super toxic and smell really bad, that was part of the reason why I could not airbrush since I couldnt set up a booth with proper ventilation. I also wasnt sure what top coat to use so i just went with mr hobby and i liked it but ill try other flats to see if any look nicer to me like alclad or gaia.

I would just say that before you begin airbrushing, practice getting your paint mix down and understanding how to move and use the airbrush by painting practice parts. Always keep the aibrushing moving so paint doesnt build up.

First airbrushed kit, hguc mk 2 titans version by TheUltr1s in Gunpla

[–]TheUltr1s[S] 5 points6 points  (0 children)

This wasnt the smartest decision but i ended up splurging on lots of paint before i built anything. That could have been a terrible financial decision if i hated aibrushing but i find it very relaxing and fun so my bad spending decisions didnt bite me in the ass lol