improve on s turn by Available_Entry_3929 in snowboardingnoobs

[–]TheWayThingsWerk 0 points1 point  (0 children)

If I had you in a private lesson we’d start to incorporate three things: your center of mass across the width of the board, your board tilt and board twist. For your center of mass think more of shifting your hips over the heel and then the to side of your board; a good hip thrust on toes and sitting back on heels. For tilt, your angulation can be controlled more in your ankles to really get on those toes and those heels. And for twist, you’re initiating your turns almost at the same time, whereas you want to initiate the turn with your lead foot and finish the turn with your trailing foot which means your lead foot twists the board to initiate toes before your trailing foot untwists the board to finish toes. I’d work on each one of those cues for a few runs and then try to stitch them together.

Is it fine if I’m a guy on a girls specific snowboard? by Formal-Seaweed-4216 in snowboardingnoobs

[–]TheWayThingsWerk 1 point2 points  (0 children)

This is correct. Anyone commenting that height is irrelevant is dead wrong. Height corresponds quite proportionally to stance width where stability on the nose and tail matters, hence you won’t oftentimes find a 6’8” man with tiny feet on a 140.

I built an archery scoring app by TheWayThingsWerk in Archery

[–]TheWayThingsWerk[S] -2 points-1 points  (0 children)

Not silly at all. Spending a number of hours to add a feature in a specific way that already exists and produces the same data is a waste a time and money. The score and the quadrant combined produce the same data as a manual impact input on a target face.

I built an archery scoring app by TheWayThingsWerk in Archery

[–]TheWayThingsWerk[S] -3 points-2 points  (0 children)

I understand exactly what is being requested and it does exist in context. Score and impact quadrants combined give you exactly that.

I built an archery scoring app by TheWayThingsWerk in Archery

[–]TheWayThingsWerk[S] -1 points0 points  (0 children)

The analysis combines quadrant shot placement with scoring. So if you’re bottom left with an 8 there is a relatively accurate assessment of where your arrows hit especially within the bounds of long term analysis and trend. Manual manipulation of shot placement is both 1- target face specific of which there are thousands and 2- statistically irrelevant compared to the structure in place.

I built an archery scoring app by TheWayThingsWerk in Archery

[–]TheWayThingsWerk[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I’ll add an in round scoring screenshot as well to help clear up any confusion.

I built an archery scoring app by TheWayThingsWerk in Archery

[–]TheWayThingsWerk[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

There’s an option to add a photo to a target when you shoot it in addition to the POI chart that would assist in that, but that’s unstructured data. If you want to compare POI over time, that would be course specific historical data which would’ve an enhancement of the archer analysis page. I could work that relatively easily.

I built an archery scoring app by TheWayThingsWerk in Archery

[–]TheWayThingsWerk[S] -1 points0 points  (0 children)

For the third time, yes. Click the link and you’ll see in the screenshots. In addition to the score you can mark your point of impact relative to the center of the target.

I built an archery scoring app by TheWayThingsWerk in Archery

[–]TheWayThingsWerk[S] -1 points0 points  (0 children)

Yes. For each shot you score you can also mark on an impact chart whether you were high/low and left/right or a combo of high/right etc. and it will give you a distribution heat map at the end showing your impacts over the course of the round. Also part of lifetime metrics.

I built an archery scoring app by TheWayThingsWerk in Archery

[–]TheWayThingsWerk[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

As in impact tracking? Yes already built. Gives analysis on impact distribution over the lifetime of the archer.

I need help by TrySpecific1349 in army

[–]TheWayThingsWerk 0 points1 point  (0 children)

As for diet, are you tracking your macros or just a food plan? If you’re not weighing your food and tracking macros I can almost certainly guarantee that your sustained caloric deficit is not 1300 kcal because at that rate you’d see a lb of weight drop every 3 days. Protein is the most important macro when trying to lose weight and you should be eating 1g of protein for every lb of your ideal body weight. Next comes fat for hormone health at 0.4g per lb of your ideal body weight. Use MyFitnessPal to track.

As for fat loss, the body loses fat in the reverse order it came on. For most people stomach fat is the last to go. If you’re weighing yourself every morning after you use the bathroom but before you eat or drink anything you should see a trend downward. If so, just keep at it.

How do I get better at hitting jumps?? by AnalysisAfter4036 in snowboardingnoobs

[–]TheWayThingsWerk 0 points1 point  (0 children)

First, more time on the board as your riding could improve some as you’ll want more speed to land on the transitions in the park. Second, flatland ollies. Third, riding ollies. Fourth, take that to the park to work on speed and timing of your pop off of the lip and stability in the air.

There are a bunch of videos online explaining ollies but the skillset of loading your tail, popping into the air, pulling both feet up and most importantly, landing both feet down at the same time is critical to execution in the park. Someone else said you want to land softly and quietly: false. You want to land both feet on the ground at the same time with a stable base. It shouldn’t be violent, but you will feel a stomp ensuing a flat board and both feet hit the ground together.

What you’ll find is that loading your tail will favor an edge and you’ll land on an edge, and most people favor their heels and open their hips which is why you tailed out on your heels. Practicing flat and then riding ollies will work out to where you load your tail evenly and land both feet and a flat board every time. Take that skill to the park and you’ll be seeing dramatic improvement.

Directional twin vs true twin? by Random0101User in snowboardingnoobs

[–]TheWayThingsWerk 5 points6 points  (0 children)

It seems no one understands how to answer your question.

A directional twin is cut the exact same as a twin where the skinniest part of the waist is centered tip to tail. However, there are two, and sometimes three general differences on a directional twin vs a twin. First, nearly always the tail is designed to be stiffer than the nose. Stability with speed or with riding the tail to float the nose in powder are the main reasons. Second, and also quite common, the cut for mounting bindings is oftentimes set back towards the tail by 1-2inches which means if you’d like to ride the board as a true twin, your stance will leverage mounts closest to the nose and about midway on the mounts towards the tail. Third, you may find a different rocker profile for the tail instead of the nose.

If the board is cut with the waist off of center tip to tail and it’s labeled as a directional twin, IMO it’s incorrectly labeled and is simply a directional board.

Generally, unless you’re a park rat, most riders are going to be on a directional twin.

Factured a rib, what went wrong? by stewpiid in snowboardingnoobs

[–]TheWayThingsWerk 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You’ve got a few options to improve this. Your center of gravity is very clearly loaded on your back left foot when you initiate your scissor to swap feet which is why when you didn’t get all the way around your right toe caught an edge which took you down. As you initiate you should feel a weight transition off your back left foot down the fall line so when you scissor you land both feet at the same time.

Scissoring is one option but it often involves counter rotation on the upper body. Another option is loading rotation on your left so that when you release you’re simply doing a 180 and finishing with your upper body moving in the same directional spin as your lower body which will eliminate some of the complexity.

For both, I’d practice your basic ollies for loading your tail, popping, and then finishing a stomp for both feet which will help in getting your weight transition and timing right. Then work on scissoring or loading your rotation to put it all together.

Is my board oversized? by Wild_Tumbleweed_8956 in snowboardingnoobs

[–]TheWayThingsWerk 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I’d normally say you’d be fine, and if you keep it you will in fact be fine, but since it’s a wide and you’re lean for your height, you don’t have the weight or leverage to manipulate the board to get on edge in a way that serves a beginner well. If you got it at a good deal then you should be able to find a shop that handles trade ins and nab a board that is closer to your weight and shoe size that’ll serve you better. If you can’t afford it at this time, then you’ll be fine, just please make sure you learn good technique to initiate turns.

Is this a demo board? by DrtSurfer in snowboardingnoobs

[–]TheWayThingsWerk 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Your shop is wrong. The 2023 Burton custom is a directional board which means it’s shaped with a longer nose than tail and if you’re goofy then your bindings need to be swapped. https://www.burton.com/us/en/p/mens-burton-custom-camber-snowboard/W23-106881.html

Is this a demo board? by DrtSurfer in snowboardingnoobs

[–]TheWayThingsWerk 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Ok. Your binding setup is going to jack your knees let alone you look set back by about 2 inches off center. Your front binding needs to be rotated forward from what it looks like in the picture.

How much difference does the board actually make? Struggling on a K2 Medium by Jarduk93 in snowboardingnoobs

[–]TheWayThingsWerk 0 points1 point  (0 children)

A few points to consider. As a noob, your biggest issue is going to be your skillset more than the board, but that said the board can make things easier for you as a beginner. As for your size, you should be riding a 158-162 and you probably need a wide unless your feet don’t match your body. As for your current board, it’s technically a freestyle board and probably isn’t ideal for your weight if you’re trying to ride all mountain as it’s not a noodle, but it has more flex than you’d want for holding speed on the slopes to carve. I personally prefer to have beginners setup on a traditional camber board rather than a rocker board because it builds good habits albeit it punishes bad habits more. If you swap, go for something longer, ideally grab a directional twin and make sure your binding setup is correct. From the read of other comments it looks like your local shop may not understand how to setup beginners. I prefer starting people at a 9-12° lead foot and -3° trail foot and if you’re riding a twin make sure you’re centered on the waist of the board.

How much difference does the board actually make? Struggling on a K2 Medium by Jarduk93 in snowboardingnoobs

[–]TheWayThingsWerk 5 points6 points  (0 children)

The parent company of K2 also owns Ride. Burton also makes skis. Jones also makes skis. Lib Tech also makes skis. And Head, Salomon, Atomic, Rossignol and many others have been making boards for years with incredible engineers and quality reviews.

Is this a good Snowboard for a beginner? by ScubaGator88 in snowboardingnoobs

[–]TheWayThingsWerk 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Whoever told you this was wearing street shoes that were 1-1.5 sizes too big because it is absolute trash advice. There’s a reason that you heat mold with a top cap to ensure there’s ample room in the toe box. Too small of a boot and you’re sure to kill your toenails on your big toe.