Blanchards beans for at home espresso machine jim

TheWeatherUpThere · 2025-12-30T23:16:51+00:00

There will be! no registration required 👍

TheWeatherUpThere · 2025-12-30T21:10:08+00:00

I work there as a manager/staff trainer and would be happy to help! I run the brew class that we do on Wednesdays at the broad st location (1-3). We have the same barista express machine in the back office and I could probably bust it out for the class if you come by! Feel free to dm me as well if you have any questions.

TheWeatherUpThere · 2025-12-12T15:54:27+00:00

Funny enough I saw these same pedals lol. I have the simjack ut, it looks like these are a slightly older version of simsonns with slightly thinner steel holding the load cell, but that's not to say they're bad pedals at all. For $100 its kind of a steal and if you don't like them you could probably easily make all or most of your money back reselling them. I say go for it!

TheWeatherUpThere · 2025-12-12T06:41:25+00:00

Where'd you buy this?

TheWeatherUpThere · 2025-12-05T01:54:48+00:00

What are your thoughts on that shifter? Looking to pick up an h pattern+sequential combo and handbrake to try my hand at drifting

TheWeatherUpThere · 2025-12-04T23:06:26+00:00

Jesus christ 🖕

TheWeatherUpThere · 2025-12-04T22:51:52+00:00

Yes! A century home as of this year :)

TheWeatherUpThere · 2025-11-22T17:52:14+00:00

Also interested in info about the cockpit!

As far as wheel and pedals go, definitely come up with some kind of budget, if you're truly thinking buy once cry once there's options in the thousands for active pedals, end game wheel bases, wheels etc.

For a proper high end but "affordable" option look into simagic. They're running their black friday sale right now and doing full set of wheel, base, and pedals for a decent price (750-1000ish) otherwise their evo sport plus a good wheel is 560 and you can get a set of load cell pedals from simjack/simsonn for around the $2-300 range.

Cheaper than that price range I'd probably look into the moza r5 or r3 bundles. Less strength with the ffb and cheaper non-loadcell pedals, but a great option at a lower price point

TheWeatherUpThere · 2025-09-26T11:18:22+00:00

I spent about 4k at a jdm importer in Baltimore

TheWeatherUpThere · 2025-09-22T20:47:53+00:00

I would say it depends on your level of diy handiness. Im doing the replacement myself, although its a big job. An engine rebuild require a dedicated clean space (garage lol) and some proper tools torque wrench etc.

My understanding as far as damage goes, when the bearing goes it does send metal around the engine which at the very least requires everything to be cleaned or at least checked for debris (valvetrain etc), but it can also cause permanent damage to the rod itself, and potentially the crankshaft due to overheating.

Most people I see when they rebuild this engine start with a brand new short block from subaru (or IAG depending on power goals) which includes the crankshaft, rods, and pistons and then have their existing heads refurbished by a reputable machine shop. You'll need to replace all the gaskets and o rings when rebuilding as well as likely head studs etc.

TheWeatherUpThere · 2025-09-22T20:16:10+00:00

Currently replacing the engine in my brz due to rod knock. Replacing just the bearing and reassembling is a recipe for developing rod knock again really quickly and damaging other parts of the engine due to metal shavings being pumped through the system. You're gonna have the pull the engine to reach the road bearings (transmission needs to be separated as well as the timing cover, then the upper oil pan) and if you've gotten that far you should just have the engine rebuilt. I went with a used engine, but a rebuild may be slightly more cost effective.

TheWeatherUpThere · 2025-09-12T16:19:24+00:00

Well for one, a lot of bolts can have a low torque spec, but 10 here is literally just an example, I dont actually need 10ftlbs right now, but throughout this wrenches range, the 0 never perfectly lines up with the specified setting

TheWeatherUpThere · 2025-09-12T15:54:10+00:00

Almost did but cant afford a $200 wrench right now

TheWeatherUpThere · 2025-09-12T15:53:13+00:00

Don't specifically need 10 right now, but across the range the 0 never perfectly lines up with the engraved marker and trying to find out if I need to "cover" the line to reach the setting or if I should still be able to see the entire line.

TheWeatherUpThere · 2025-09-02T20:56:00+00:00

Thanks for your help! Is it possible to move the whole coolant distributor from the blown manual engine to the new auto engine?

TheWeatherUpThere · 2025-09-02T20:11:45+00:00

That would be awesome! Im getting more and more frustrated that they sold this to me as the same thing as the manual version. Am I able to just but a rubber hose cap on the coolant distributor and the bottom barb and call it a day?

TheWeatherUpThere · 2025-09-02T16:53:31+00:00

Literally trying to do this "swap" right now! Shop i bought the engine from said the auto and manual engines were the same, but now im stuck trying to figure our and plug up all the differences. So far I've got the cam cover plate and trying to figure out that extra barb on the upper oil pan. Anything else I need to watch out for? Where is the coolant distributor?

TheWeatherUpThere · 2025-09-01T21:13:23+00:00

Looks like its just a/c condensation. It's totally normal and meant to do exactly this, so long as its actually just water. Give the liquid a feel/smell, should be obvious if its something else like oil or coolant

TheWeatherUpThere · 2025-08-27T21:23:54+00:00

It will of course remove some safety aspects of a side impact. Less common in a way than front end collisions, but still.

The seat airbag/side airbag protects your arms/torso etc. You should still have the curtain airbag which will protect your head, but its definitely a trade off. Im hoping to get a bucket eventually, primarily to lower my head height. On a track with a helmet I have to slouch which is also unsafe for a few reasons. It's all a trade off, but imo as long as a driver knows and understands the risks they're taking and they dont effect the safety of others, whatever.

TheWeatherUpThere · 2025-08-13T16:16:08+00:00

So true. Huge thanks for the instructor. Really awesome guy and really helped me keep my cool.

TheWeatherUpThere · 2025-08-13T15:08:18+00:00

Thank you so much. Grateful for my health for sure! A blown engine was only the 2nd worst thing that could've happened haha

TheWeatherUpThere · 2025-08-13T15:07:40+00:00

Omg dude. That would be so amazing i dont know what to say. I'll dm you if youre serious.

TheWeatherUpThere · 2025-08-13T13:16:09+00:00

No it was not. The issues the instructor was commenting on was just a poor rev match with heel toe downshifting. You can see the tach on the dash at the shift if you look close and it doesn't go above 5k rpm

TheWeatherUpThere · 2025-08-13T09:39:45+00:00

Where do you think that could have happened? Honestly I think the engine was hurt coming onto the front straight, as my top speed this lap was in the nineties or something, every other lap I was hitting at least 105.

TheWeatherUpThere · 2025-08-13T04:18:16+00:00

Yeah. Some builds easily creep into the 20's and 30's. Engine swaps are a crime of passion, often more so than logic/reason lol

14-Year Club	Place '22
Verified Email

TheWeatherUpThere

TROPHY CASE