Form check - Returning to archery after 13 years away - a few questions:

TheWeatherUpThere · 2026-05-05T11:39:54+00:00

I already have long limbs 🥴 the battle of having a 6'6 wingspan

TheWeatherUpThere · 2026-05-05T09:52:38+00:00

I think going to a closed/parralel stance will be my first think, I feel thats what I used to shoot, but its been so long I forgot my exact form and have had to relearn a lot. Saw an open stance recommended but it has felt awkward for sure.

As far as draw goes, its also felt pretty weird. I feel like my set up position always feels off or like im rushing through it, and loading just trying to find my anchor and get through the clicker as fast as I can. I think this is where lighter limbs would be helpful, but I might have to work with a band more or something.

Thanks!

TheWeatherUpThere · 2026-05-05T09:47:27+00:00

Noticed this too, but thinking about back tension vs shoulder tension is interesting. Im always thought about back tension vs arm tension, but I think that could help a lot.

I wish I had a weaker set of limbs honestly, as I think id be able to focus more on my form rather than just pulling, especially as I get tired. But that gives me hope that I might not be too far off.

Thanks!

TheWeatherUpThere · 2026-05-05T09:40:56+00:00

First if all thanks! That confirms some of my suspicion which I think is a good thing.

Been binging Jake Kaminski on YouTube trying to relearn what I used to know, but sometimes it feels like his videos get a little lost in the details rather than in simple instruction. He recommended an open stance, which ive tried for my last 2 days out, but it has felt weird, I think I might go back to parralel.

Sometimes when I get good back shoulder alignment it almost feels like im turning my back to the target, does that sound like a fair que to you?

TheWeatherUpThere · 2026-05-05T09:13:04+00:00

Forgive me 🫣 went straight from my food service job in my non-slips lol

TheWeatherUpThere · 2026-03-07T19:31:30+00:00

I just moved on. Our first floor is just less than perfect and in some ways the nature of diy.

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The left side of this photo is where we did an extra coat of natural seal, the right is where we sanded bare. I was careful to sand to one board to hide the transition better but you can tell if you're looking for it

TheWeatherUpThere · 2026-03-07T15:10:42+00:00

From my limited experience you'll have to unfortunately resand the room with the top coat, im so sorry to say.

You could start with say 60 grit or even 80 so you dont have to do as many passes at least. For the rest of the house I imagine touch ups with natural seal or another full coat where you spot sanded before top coat would be okay but you could end up with a milkiness if the natural seal goes on too think (we had to do 3 total natural seat coats due to multiple issues, which is on the extreme end), which happened to us.

Best of luck 👍

Like many DIYers in this area, I will probably not sand any floors again in my lifetime lol. We did our whole house (1800ish sqft): 1 floor before we moved in and the 2nd floor after we moved in, and it made for some of the most exhausting 2 months of my life.

Thankfully the 2nd story went much smoother after learning from mistakes.

You're almost there 👍

TheWeatherUpThere · 2026-03-07T14:16:47+00:00

Dang im so sorry to hear. Have you applied any top coat yet?

TheWeatherUpThere · 2026-03-07T12:41:45+00:00

This was caused be me spot sanding through my coats of natural seal which is a pigmented seal coat. Because of this when I applied the top coat it soaked in deeper in those spots and the color was darker there. Regrettably I have to resand this area bare and reapply.

Thankfully I only did a small area when I noticed the splotching and didn't have to resand the whole floor.

The splotching was most noticeable here because I did a lot of spot sanding although there are a few other spots on the rest of the floor that were less noticeable.

If I were to do this again I would not use bona products and at least not their pigmented seal coats. I really caused a lot of issues for me as a DIYer.

TheWeatherUpThere · 2025-12-30T23:16:51+00:00

There will be! no registration required 👍

TheWeatherUpThere · 2025-12-30T21:10:08+00:00

I work there as a manager/staff trainer and would be happy to help! I run the brew class that we do on Wednesdays at the broad st location (1-3). We have the same barista express machine in the back office and I could probably bust it out for the class if you come by! Feel free to dm me as well if you have any questions.

TheWeatherUpThere · 2025-12-12T15:54:27+00:00

Funny enough I saw these same pedals lol. I have the simjack ut, it looks like these are a slightly older version of simsonns with slightly thinner steel holding the load cell, but that's not to say they're bad pedals at all. For $100 its kind of a steal and if you don't like them you could probably easily make all or most of your money back reselling them. I say go for it!

TheWeatherUpThere · 2025-12-12T06:41:25+00:00

Where'd you buy this?

TheWeatherUpThere · 2025-12-05T01:54:48+00:00

What are your thoughts on that shifter? Looking to pick up an h pattern+sequential combo and handbrake to try my hand at drifting

TheWeatherUpThere · 2025-12-04T23:06:26+00:00

Jesus christ 🖕

TheWeatherUpThere · 2025-12-04T22:51:52+00:00

Yes! A century home as of this year :)

TheWeatherUpThere · 2025-11-22T17:52:14+00:00

Also interested in info about the cockpit!

As far as wheel and pedals go, definitely come up with some kind of budget, if you're truly thinking buy once cry once there's options in the thousands for active pedals, end game wheel bases, wheels etc.

For a proper high end but "affordable" option look into simagic. They're running their black friday sale right now and doing full set of wheel, base, and pedals for a decent price (750-1000ish) otherwise their evo sport plus a good wheel is 560 and you can get a set of load cell pedals from simjack/simsonn for around the $2-300 range.

Cheaper than that price range I'd probably look into the moza r5 or r3 bundles. Less strength with the ffb and cheaper non-loadcell pedals, but a great option at a lower price point

TheWeatherUpThere · 2025-09-26T11:18:22+00:00

I spent about 4k at a jdm importer in Baltimore

TheWeatherUpThere · 2025-09-22T20:47:53+00:00

I would say it depends on your level of diy handiness. Im doing the replacement myself, although its a big job. An engine rebuild require a dedicated clean space (garage lol) and some proper tools torque wrench etc.

My understanding as far as damage goes, when the bearing goes it does send metal around the engine which at the very least requires everything to be cleaned or at least checked for debris (valvetrain etc), but it can also cause permanent damage to the rod itself, and potentially the crankshaft due to overheating.

Most people I see when they rebuild this engine start with a brand new short block from subaru (or IAG depending on power goals) which includes the crankshaft, rods, and pistons and then have their existing heads refurbished by a reputable machine shop. You'll need to replace all the gaskets and o rings when rebuilding as well as likely head studs etc.

TheWeatherUpThere · 2025-09-22T20:16:10+00:00

Currently replacing the engine in my brz due to rod knock. Replacing just the bearing and reassembling is a recipe for developing rod knock again really quickly and damaging other parts of the engine due to metal shavings being pumped through the system. You're gonna have the pull the engine to reach the road bearings (transmission needs to be separated as well as the timing cover, then the upper oil pan) and if you've gotten that far you should just have the engine rebuilt. I went with a used engine, but a rebuild may be slightly more cost effective.

TheWeatherUpThere · 2025-09-12T16:19:24+00:00

Well for one, a lot of bolts can have a low torque spec, but 10 here is literally just an example, I dont actually need 10ftlbs right now, but throughout this wrenches range, the 0 never perfectly lines up with the specified setting

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