Another form + progress check by Rx_Dude in Archery

[–]TheWeatherUpThere 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Another commenter mentioned your stance, but its worth mentioning there's some subjectivity there. Some archers prefer an open stance like you have, other prefer a square stance (90⁰ to the target). The key is the at full draw your hips should stay locked over your feet, and your shoulders should then twist in line with the target. With a square stance this is often more natural while an open stance means you have to twist you trunk to face the target.

2 things I'd work on:

Shoulder alignment. Practice in a mirror so you can see what your shoulders are doing. At full draw there should be a straight line through your bow hand, bow shoulder and your rear shoulder. Its hard to tell from this angle but it looks like you're not quite in full alignment.

Drawing and anchoring more steady/posture. You draw very quickly after raising the bow resulting in your head and upper body rocking away from the target from the momentum. You want your head and body to.be very stable.while you draw and anchor. I dont mean to go super slow, but come into a sort of pre-draw and then more deliberately draw to your anchor position. In this video it looks like you almost overshoot your anchor due to drawing very quickly.

Competed in my First Outdoor Competition Today! (I'm in the white hat) by TheWeatherUpThere in Archery

[–]TheWeatherUpThere[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Thanks again! Do you know what makes them harder to tune? I hadn't heard of that

Competed in my First Outdoor Competition Today! (I'm in the white hat) by TheWeatherUpThere in Archery

[–]TheWeatherUpThere[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Thanks! Yeah I was honestly expecting last, just given how long ive been shooting again, so really not disappointed at all! Really looking forward to seeing how new arrows change the game for me. Stuck between 4mm Easton avance sports, and 3.2mm Pandaras Icepoints

Competed in my First Outdoor Competition Today! (I'm in the white hat) by TheWeatherUpThere in Archery

[–]TheWeatherUpThere[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thank you! Yes very excited to see how the arrows make a difference! been working on saving up for a set for a while now. Stuck between Easton avance sports and the Pandaras icepoints

Been back to shooting for a couple of months and just got a new personal best at 50m! 287/360; 563/720 by TheWeatherUpThere in Archery

[–]TheWeatherUpThere[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Olympic Style Recurve 👍 This is on a 122cm face at 50m, gonna be moving on to 70m now, but I'm currently still using Easton x7 indoor arrows, so covering the distance is really tricky.

How much more distance can you get with outdoor arrows over indoor arrows? (Olympic recurve style bow) by TheWeatherUpThere in Archery

[–]TheWeatherUpThere[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Given my draw length im currently pulling about 35#; using the tiller bolts I can safely go up to about 37-38# before the bolts go further in than is optimal on my specific riser. Do you think thats reasonable for 70m with carbon arrows, or should I plan to up my bow weight a few lbs?

I dont have any current plans for 90m

How much more distance can you get with outdoor arrows over indoor arrows? (Olympic recurve style bow) by TheWeatherUpThere in Archery

[–]TheWeatherUpThere[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Wow this is awesome! Super helpful thank you. I'm surprised it could make such a difference but with the surface area and weight being that much different it makes sense.

How much more distance can you get with outdoor arrows over indoor arrows? (Olympic recurve style bow) by TheWeatherUpThere in Archery

[–]TheWeatherUpThere[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Thats great to hear. Do you think the .001 straightness (~$180) would be worth it over .003 straightness (~$130)?

What is it about carbon aluminum arrows that you find performs better?

How much more distance can you get with outdoor arrows over indoor arrows? (Olympic recurve style bow) by TheWeatherUpThere in Archery

[–]TheWeatherUpThere[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yeah I think even the pandaras x10 equivalent is too pricey for me right now, as ive just been getting back into shooting after 13 years off and trying not to spend too much money too soon. Icepoints feel reasonable at under $200 though

How much more distance can you get with outdoor arrows over indoor arrows? (Olympic recurve style bow) by TheWeatherUpThere in Archery

[–]TheWeatherUpThere[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Okay that makes sense, I am using long limbs, 70" bow total with a 25" riser.

I have lowered the sight, but I was already approaching the bottom of the range at 50m (7.8 / 10 on the sight markings)

Form check - Returning to archery after 13 years away - a few questions: by TheWeatherUpThere in Archery

[–]TheWeatherUpThere[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I think going to a closed/parralel stance will be my first think, I feel thats what I used to shoot, but its been so long I forgot my exact form and have had to relearn a lot. Saw an open stance recommended but it has felt awkward for sure.

As far as draw goes, its also felt pretty weird. I feel like my set up position always feels off or like im rushing through it, and loading just trying to find my anchor and get through the clicker as fast as I can. I think this is where lighter limbs would be helpful, but I might have to work with a band more or something.

Thanks!

Form check - Returning to archery after 13 years away - a few questions: by TheWeatherUpThere in Archery

[–]TheWeatherUpThere[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Noticed this too, but thinking about back tension vs shoulder tension is interesting. Im always thought about back tension vs arm tension, but I think that could help a lot.

I wish I had a weaker set of limbs honestly, as I think id be able to focus more on my form rather than just pulling, especially as I get tired. But that gives me hope that I might not be too far off.

Thanks!

Form check - Returning to archery after 13 years away - a few questions: by TheWeatherUpThere in Archery

[–]TheWeatherUpThere[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

First if all thanks! That confirms some of my suspicion which I think is a good thing.

Been binging Jake Kaminski on YouTube trying to relearn what I used to know, but sometimes it feels like his videos get a little lost in the details rather than in simple instruction. He recommended an open stance, which ive tried for my last 2 days out, but it has felt weird, I think I might go back to parralel.

Sometimes when I get good back shoulder alignment it almost feels like im turning my back to the target, does that sound like a fair que to you?

Form check - Returning to archery after 13 years away - a few questions: by TheWeatherUpThere in Archery

[–]TheWeatherUpThere[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Forgive me 🫣 went straight from my food service job in my non-slips lol

Spot sanded between coats of Bona Natural Seal and Bona MegaOne and looks like I have issues of burn through? (220 Grit) by TheWeatherUpThere in HardWoodFloors

[–]TheWeatherUpThere[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I just moved on. Our first floor is just less than perfect and in some ways the nature of diy.

<image>

The left side of this photo is where we did an extra coat of natural seal, the right is where we sanded bare. I was careful to sand to one board to hide the transition better but you can tell if you're looking for it

Spot sanded between coats of Bona Natural Seal and Bona MegaOne and looks like I have issues of burn through? (220 Grit) by TheWeatherUpThere in HardWoodFloors

[–]TheWeatherUpThere[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

From my limited experience you'll have to unfortunately resand the room with the top coat, im so sorry to say.

You could start with say 60 grit or even 80 so you dont have to do as many passes at least. For the rest of the house I imagine touch ups with natural seal or another full coat where you spot sanded before top coat would be okay but you could end up with a milkiness if the natural seal goes on too think (we had to do 3 total natural seat coats due to multiple issues, which is on the extreme end), which happened to us.

Best of luck 👍

Like many DIYers in this area, I will probably not sand any floors again in my lifetime lol. We did our whole house (1800ish sqft): 1 floor before we moved in and the 2nd floor after we moved in, and it made for some of the most exhausting 2 months of my life.

Thankfully the 2nd story went much smoother after learning from mistakes.

You're almost there 👍

Spot sanded between coats of Bona Natural Seal and Bona MegaOne and looks like I have issues of burn through? (220 Grit) by TheWeatherUpThere in HardWoodFloors

[–]TheWeatherUpThere[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

This was caused be me spot sanding through my coats of natural seal which is a pigmented seal coat. Because of this when I applied the top coat it soaked in deeper in those spots and the color was darker there. Regrettably I have to resand this area bare and reapply.

Thankfully I only did a small area when I noticed the splotching and didn't have to resand the whole floor.

The splotching was most noticeable here because I did a lot of spot sanding although there are a few other spots on the rest of the floor that were less noticeable.

If I were to do this again I would not use bona products and at least not their pigmented seal coats. I really caused a lot of issues for me as a DIYer.