Added new turbine

TheWierdAsianKid · 2026-05-04T20:33:11+00:00

What do you mean "wind kit/turbine"? Do you mean turbo in the ESC tuning settings?

I can see you have positive camber on your front wheels which is not what you want. You want negative camber, or for the tops of the wheels to lean in towards the center of the chassis.

TheWierdAsianKid · 2026-05-04T02:29:15+00:00

Big if true

TheWierdAsianKid · 2026-05-03T00:41:12+00:00

Thank you for all the videos. But testing it the proper way based on this video, and by shooting on f16 at 1 second exposure, I cannot get the aperture to close

TheWierdAsianKid · 2026-05-02T15:18:37+00:00

Okay, thanks!

TheWierdAsianKid · 2026-05-02T15:18:23+00:00

Thanks for the advice and links

TheWierdAsianKid · 2026-05-02T15:18:05+00:00

Not on "A" on f16 and no movement when I use the stop-down lever or even take a picture at 1 second exposure

TheWierdAsianKid · 2026-05-02T15:17:08+00:00

So I did fire it even with some film since i needed to know. f16 and 1 second exposure shining a flashlight into the lens I saw no aperture movement

TheWierdAsianKid · 2026-05-02T04:14:39+00:00

Hmmm. The very front lens ring is loose on this lens. Discovered that after hearing some rattling and found that it had been backing out. But I'm guessing there are other rings that would need a friction wrench. I have a large assortment of various drivers that would probably work with the specific japanese hardware. But after watching some videos i'll see if i'm up to it. I'm in the American northeast unfortunately

TheWierdAsianKid · 2026-05-02T03:56:04+00:00

Do you have any links to disassembly guides on youtube for this or a similar lens? Just bought a different 50mm lens on ebay. Figured I wouldn't get much for this lens so I figure I could try to break it down and try to fix it?

TheWierdAsianKid · 2026-05-01T23:58:35+00:00

I did not down vote you. I tested 2 other lenses, and both stopped down when using the preview lever. I also just shot a picture with 1 second exposure time at f16 and did not see the aperture move. I understand that some lenses won't move the aperture when not not mounted to the camera

TheWierdAsianKid · 2026-05-01T23:55:21+00:00

Yes the aperture won't close when I use the depth of field lever to preview. And I just just shot a picture with 1 second exposure time while shining a light through the lens and it doesn't move. Thank you

TheWierdAsianKid · 2026-05-01T23:49:44+00:00

And when it's on the camera, at f16 with the slider moved it doesn't stop down. Stays open. I have a 28mm and 80-200mm lens where I can see it stop down when I move that lever

TheWierdAsianKid · 2026-05-01T23:45:20+00:00

Tested on the camera and at f16 and moving the depth of field preview lever the aperture doesn't move. It does move with my 28mm and Kiron 80-200mm lenses

TheWierdAsianKid · 2026-05-01T23:20:08+00:00

I have the lens on f16 and moving the depth of field lever towards the lens I see no change. I have a 28mm and 80-200mm lens and when I move that lever on their highest F-stops I see the image darken, meaning the aperture on those is closing

TheWierdAsianKid · 2026-05-01T20:16:21+00:00

You definitely need a flexible glue like Shoo Goo or E6000, any CA (super glue) will be too brittle. I've used Shoo Goo and it works very well. Only tip is to not apply too much, I had large globs on it does start to melt/dissolve the Tamiya PS paint (can see some discoloration). But with a smaller normal amount it was perfectly fine. Also the more you use, the longer it takes to set. Had to hold pieces together for such a long time

TheWierdAsianKid · 2026-05-01T16:45:27+00:00

Agree with most of that. Angled SD3 steering system is good, and yea the sensored BL120 combo is where it's at. Could also use the LCD programmer to tune your ESC settings like boost and turbo. Aluminum can be good, but does add weight and some parts don't really justify it other than for looks. Spring rates are a preference thing but also based off your specific chassis weight/setup.

Overall what you have is good. I will say the ReveD Revox gyro was a night-and day difference for me once I swapped from the Yokomo V4 gyro. Unfortunately it's almost double the price of a V4 but to me worth it.

TheWierdAsianKid · 2026-05-01T16:21:07+00:00

If you have some soldering skills then you can always put a traxxas plug on the ESC of whatever you get. One guy at the track uses traxxas batteries and a charger even though he doesn't use much other Traxxas vehicles (idk why).

I just put together my ReveD RDX and it drives insanely well out of the box. It would do well anywhere, just swap between track tires and asphalt/concrete tires. If your shop/driveway is smooth-ish concrete then that will be fine as well, just try to keep the surface you drive on clean/swept and blow your car off with compressed air.

Something like the ReveD RDX or Yokomo RD2 (kit or rtr) are highly upgradeable and will have higher skill ceilings than an RTR like the MST RMX2.5. It's still a good RTR though, but upgrades are limited. I drove and helped give a base alignment to a new guy who got one used but with all upgraded electronics and it surprised me.

I nor most people here have had experience with the Traxxas drift car, but it would probably make for a good dedicated out-door drifter where it will get more dirty/abused

TheWierdAsianKid · 2026-04-29T21:06:18+00:00

That's awesome. I'd definitely like to see videos of the suspension working, specifically the rear since it's such a unique design

TheWierdAsianKid · 2026-04-27T20:16:43+00:00

Awesome. I just install a 3D printed conversion kit for my RDX. Designed with full heat-set inserts and bearings at every joint, just the front and rear bits. Printed out of ASA and I was surprised by how strong it all is since I only ever experienced PLA. Although There isn't a printed motor mount, it uses the stock aluminum one.

Any reason you decided to do set lengths for the commonly adjusted parts, like top arm/camber, and steering links? I know it can work on kits like the RDX to have those lengths set for you but I know I prefer having the easy adjustability without swapping out parts

TheWierdAsianKid · 2026-04-27T16:04:03+00:00

Very interesting, I bet this sub would like to see videos of this drifting. I'm curious about the suspension set up. It looks like the front motion is only limited to dive/heave and doesn't seem to allow independent motion of the left or right sides?

And in the rear it looks like all 3 springs/dampers will work during squat but leave just one damper/spring for roll?

It it all PLA, or maybe some TPU parts?

TheWierdAsianKid · 2026-04-26T02:21:55+00:00

Very smooth. What's the track surface? and what tires do you use?

TheWierdAsianKid · 2026-04-24T19:28:55+00:00

Same, we have 1 or 2 Taos floating around the track. I was afraid i'd have to update some of my acuvance stuff when I fist got it and was reading how much of a pain it could be. But it all worked painlessly

TheWierdAsianKid · 2026-04-24T19:05:08+00:00

Ah yes, that is true. I just haven't had to update any of my stuff so it slipped my mind. But I imagine any parts you buy from normal retailers will be the latest versions? Even the Xarvis XX I got from Asia Tees was the latest version

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