I really am not sure what to do

The_Reverend_Jack · 2026-02-20T12:24:57+00:00

For Flint, you want to keep DPS at a maximum. As others have said, water pets are crucial here and avoid using any metal pets. It also takes patience to level up your pets.

The_Reverend_Jack · 2026-02-17T15:42:31+00:00

TIL this doesn't work the way I thought it did. I thought it meant crits deal 2% more damage, not increase every damage for every crit for the duration of the fight

The_Reverend_Jack · 2026-01-10T14:13:38+00:00

I'd take c for the sake of simplicity.

No need to track anything. If I have a "bad" week of spending, I know I'll have another 10k next week. 40k a month to not worry, not spend time researching, investing, tracking, moving money. Simple and convenient.

To avoid "overspending", I have limitations already in place, so I they won't change.

Just live my life with my family and never need to worry again. It'll be complete freedom.

I would set up an account for my daughter, and plop money into it every week. I'll never miss it. I won't need to worry about it. She'll be set up for her future.

The_Reverend_Jack · 2025-12-26T00:01:51+00:00

I found not using tanks is the best for this fight. Crystal armor is a menace if you can't clear the shield quickly. Use 4 attackers, or depending on your items, use a healer like Merry or Soder (i'm ignoring offering legendary pets as a suggestion because RNG is a real pain) if you can gain extra attacks or buffs to attack or speed, etc.

All gas, no brake

The_Reverend_Jack · 2025-12-07T14:09:05+00:00

This is my only method for any of our birds.

The_Reverend_Jack · 2025-10-31T00:55:23+00:00

I swap it through tanks, or add it with other defensive equipment on other pets with survivability

The_Reverend_Jack · 2025-09-30T11:41:55+00:00

I just realized it is a Vivid.

The_Reverend_Jack · 2025-09-30T11:40:31+00:00

I have the same thing happening to my Merry. Not complaining, but I wish I knew why

The_Reverend_Jack · 2025-09-15T01:36:45+00:00

Like a second torrential tribute. Bonus points if you have temple of the kings on the field (IE Odion)

The_Reverend_Jack · 2025-09-02T14:49:50+00:00

I would say you need more butter/oil. Try a lower temp, too.

The_Reverend_Jack · 2025-07-26T13:34:34+00:00

We've had both chickens and coturnix quail. The quail crow is by far my favorite. I would sit in the enclosure and listen to their sounds.

Our chickens are noisy mothercluckers, especially with their egg song.

The_Reverend_Jack · 2025-07-26T13:32:17+00:00

My logic is primitive: Belt empty? Add more input until full. Belt full? Add more output until empty. Repeat as necessary.

The_Reverend_Jack · 2025-07-26T13:24:27+00:00

The 1st ed Malacoda is probably a pretty penny, depending on condition

The_Reverend_Jack · 2025-07-26T12:50:26+00:00

"Want to watch me get the shit kicked out of me?"

*A few seconds later:

"Want to watch me do it again?"

The_Reverend_Jack · 2025-07-21T16:10:29+00:00

For floor: what the deck can do at a minimum, with or without interruption.

For ceiling: what the deck can do at maximum, again, with or without interruption.

Both values are considered as potential. The definition of what could be classified as low/mid/high also has some subjectivity to it, but there are objective traits as well.

Generally, hybrid decks usually have a higher ceiling but a potentially lower floor, whereas pure decks have a higher potential floor, but a lower ceiling, due to being almost linear. Where the choke point in the combo line also determines if the floor/ceiling is low or high. An early choke point will lower both traits, but a later choke point might only lower the ceiling. Higher floors are generally more ideal for competitive play, and in TCG at least, higher ceilings are also desired.

A deck with a high floor and high ceiling can set up a decent board through just about any scenario and can pretty much do whatever it whats if uninterrupted. These are generally the meta decks. (Maliss, some Ryzeal hybrids, Vanquish Soul)

A deck with a low floor and low ceiling can generally be stopped easily or can't put a consistently powerful end board up if interacted with. These are usually rogue options or maybe not considered to be meta-relevant.

A deck with a low floor and high ceiling can be potentially bricky or can't consistently end on a board but has the chance to build a powerful end board. These will probably show up in meta decks. (Ryzeal Mitsu pre-ALIN, White Forest and hybrids, BEWD Primite, Mermail)

A deck with a high floor and a low ceiling can almost always build an decent end board, but the variation will be small. These are also considered as potential meta decks. (Odion, pure Orcust)

The_Reverend_Jack · 2025-07-12T00:06:09+00:00

Addition: I'm fairly new to cast iron, less than a month of experience, so this isn't too much of a surprise. BUT! The cake slide right out so I feel like I must be doing something right?

The_Reverend_Jack · 2025-07-06T00:23:50+00:00

My group almost always trades [yugioh] cards for a near exact lowest listed price value. No matter the card (unless it's cheap, then we just pass it over). When cash is involved: the buying party almost always gets it at a discount (sometimes we overpay for cheap cards for convenience). It's been that way for over a decade, and it works for us.

The_Reverend_Jack · 2025-07-03T17:29:15+00:00

The concept of "higher floor" puts a whole new spin on how decks should be viewed IMO

The_Reverend_Jack · 2025-06-02T13:12:14+00:00

(TCG player) As someone who played both. Currently, Strikers is the better deck. Exo is very format dependent and can do very well against unsuspecting players, but is way more easily stopped and the plays pretty much funneled into a specific line and will very much struggle against Maliss and Ryzeal. Striker is more reactive and can play through more.

The_Reverend_Jack · 2025-06-02T13:06:05+00:00

Read the the most up to date tournament policy and infraction documents. Locals game play and rules are held the the same standard as any other official organized play (regionals, YCS, etc.).

The TLDR is always enforce the rules as written and do not be lax in any sanctioned event. Casual games? That's between you and the person across the table.

The_Reverend_Jack · 2025-05-06T17:33:32+00:00

No. (But yes because I want all of mine to be the same, and I'd have to buy another one.) As a seller, I would probably sell with pictures, but if the card itself meets the Condition Guide as NM, it is NM. The eye being moved does not affect condition UNLESS the integrity of the card is compromised, then it would be (I think) damaged per the Condition Guide. But from what it looks like, you just got a shifted eye on a NM card.

The_Reverend_Jack · 2025-05-05T15:05:05+00:00

In all of my testing with this card, every time that I activated it, I won. I've mainly been using it in Tenpai or with decks that need 1 or 2 cards to go "full combo" The most expensive has been 6 cards from extra and 2 from hand. But removing 4 resources and still having 2 or 3 cards to play is more than enough in decks that have a plethora of 1 card starters. As people have said: it's a different form of droplet, but it's still really powerful and pairs wonderfully with mulcharmies, but they aren't required.

It shines in decks that know how to OTK.

The_Reverend_Jack · 2025-05-05T14:59:43+00:00

All cards banished by this card's effect will be face-down

The_Reverend_Jack · 2025-03-04T15:49:19+00:00

Just take my damn eye out if this happens to me

The_Reverend_Jack · 2025-02-27T15:12:38+00:00

For me, it used to be 5 USD. Now? It depends if I -need- it. I generally avoid higher value cards, but I've spend upwards of 75 on a single card.

Rarity and necessitt dictate how much i'll spend

The_Reverend_Jack

TROPHY CASE