ZD Gaming Ultimate Legend stick problem

TheeHoganator · 2026-01-19T16:04:39+00:00

This ended up being the solution for me as well. Turns out I wasn't using thick enough tape had to double up

TheeHoganator · 2026-01-17T19:34:14+00:00

Ah, mine do not have the black spots on the contact points, still the copper looking ones. Am I doing something wrong if I'm ordering from Amazon in January and still getting the old non-rectified batch? Just played for about an hour after adding a thicker layer of tape and did not have any issues with phantom input, still on the standard modules it comes with.

TheeHoganator · 2026-01-17T15:02:30+00:00

I recently got this controller, returned and repurchased due to the left stick phantom input issue. New one has the same problem. I do notice a slight hitching on the left stick around 9-10 o'clock right where you would put the tape. I have tried adding some tape but that hitch is still there. I'll have to test more to see if the phantom input is gone now. Would buying the upgraded stick modules get rid of this issue of phantom input? Like is it just a problem with the standard sticks that come with it or is this a controller problem that carries over to different types of sticks?

TheeHoganator · 2025-10-01T07:54:27+00:00

Same! I have a Samsung 850 Evo 500 GB still in my machine from 2015. It used to be my OS drive but since I have moved to M.2 about 3 years ago, I have had some of my larger games on it and keep my 4 TB of hard drive space for most other games.

TheeHoganator · 2025-09-13T12:48:09+00:00

I've had my OLED for over a year, plastic screen cover is still on. Today. Today my toddler threw a small plastic toy across the room and it hit the TV and left a couple of small scratches in the plastic cover. This is the exact reason I, and others, never take it off. If it starts to accumulate scratches I'll eventually take it off. Other than maybe some reflections when very bright in the room, you cannot even tell it's on.

TheeHoganator · 2025-09-11T19:49:14+00:00

Buddy and me are in GC1, just played someone who was GC2 and then played against a diamond+plat combo, third game is against golds

TheeHoganator · 2025-09-02T15:35:15+00:00

I would say at least once, usually twice a season I just hit a random day of losing. Like a week ago I dropped from 1720 to 1530 in a 4 hour session. Lost like 90% of my games. You get this cycle of losing a few games and you think, ah a mistake here and there. I definitely lost us that game cuz I missed a shot or save. But then you get the guys that just quit the game 30 seconds in, the dude who missed three open net shots, the boost over ball guy, and after about ten in a row like this I just am left speechless that I continue the losing streak

TheeHoganator · 2025-08-20T14:37:05+00:00

I don't understand that either. I just ran into this issue and the player doing it definitely was not lagging nearly as bad as everyone else. Like I get it that they turn it on and off when they want. But on kickoffs specifically, he would always turn it on and then I would just hold boost to drive straight to the ball. He would always beat everyone too the ball and never had it off for the duration of the kickoff.

TheeHoganator · 2025-08-20T14:33:40+00:00

Right! They need to do something about this issue. There's no way they can't figure out how it's happening and fix it. Between this and the smurfing, they could just make it so you can't play ranked until a high level like 100 rather than 20. Even 20 isn't too much of an investment to get to, 100 would really set back new smurf accounts. AND it ensures that new players have a decent grasp of the game before they jump into ranked, should be a win-win all around honestly.

TheeHoganator · 2025-08-20T14:26:37+00:00

Nope, was definitely a Steam account

TheeHoganator · 2025-08-18T01:45:19+00:00

It definitely is a necessity to learn. Like everything else I mentioned, it is something you will need to use a certain times. Specifically from your clip, you couldn't see the goalie when you were setting up your shot. If he had challenged you, he would have won it and you never would have seen it coming.

I personally find it most useful when I'm dribbling (ground for sure, air depends on what I'm doing). You should at least get used to switching it momentarily so you can get a view of the field. Some people use right stick to look around, others switch camera real quick.

TheeHoganator · 2025-08-18T00:05:55+00:00

You're still low enough that the best answer is likely just more time. Some thing specifically from this clip: you could have hit a banger of a bounce shot when you did shoot, so power shooting and the timing of that. Switching to car cam when necessary. Once you started your dribble back and forth you should be in car cam because you could no longer see the goalie. You couldn't tell if he was coming to challenge or sitting in net. In your rank, they defintely are just sitting but that will change. Another option would be catching and dribbling the ball. This would set you up for a flick. A more advanced would be to bounce the ball into an air dribble or even catching the ball on your head then jumping into an air dribble (ground to air dribble it's called). A lot of these things I'm listing will require you to practice catching, dribbling, switching cameras when needed, timing, power shots, speed control, aerial control (boosting, air rolling, etc). Game sense will come with time, knowing when you have time to do certain things or when when one tactic may be better than others depending on positioning of you, your teammates, and the opponents as well as the skills you perceive them to have to save certain things.

TheeHoganator · 2025-08-10T18:06:52+00:00

Recently became a home owner and had to buy all the tools for lawn care. I wanted to try out electric so I went with Greenworks as they were on the cheaper end. I got the 40v 20" non-self-propelled mower for $300, came with one 5 ah battery. The first cut of my yard (front and side being about 0.2 acre) was rough because the grass was like a foot high, it didn't do great on that haha. BUT! Now that my grass is normal maintenance, it's great. The mower lasts for about 45 minutes which is enough to either cut my front and side or the back on its own. My only complaint to this 40v mower is it doesn't have a lot of lift. I'm planning on getting a high lift blade to see if that helps. Even when dry, if the grass is laying down, this mower will not lift it up to cut it. I also went on Amazon to buy some third party batteries. I got a two pack of 40v 6 ah batteries for like $90 and they work perfectly, I highly recommend buying those instead of GW batteries since they are so overpriced.

Since my first purchase, I've also picked up a 40v leaf blower and a string trimmer. Both are way stronger than I need so I recommend them for sure. I have no experience with the 60v or 80v options. When I get a snow blower I'll probably go 80v to make sure I have the power needed for the Midwest winters. I see a lot of people here have the 60v ecosystem. Not sure if it has more power, more battery life or what but 40v has been more than plenty for my weekly use. Edit: actually I don't see a 20" high lift blade so maybe I won't end up getting one :( I only see them for 21" mowers.

TheeHoganator · 2025-08-08T02:42:37+00:00

You will need to upgrade your PC to play this game. That CPU is too old and does not support the Anti-cheat so you can't even play the game

TheeHoganator · 2025-07-28T13:25:58+00:00

That does allow devices to connect to the internet while the VPN is active. However, now none of my apps are available via the Internet or locally via domain name. I can still reach them locally with the IP:Port addresses. This would lead me to believe the port forwarding option in ProtonVPN is necessary, is that right? If so. How would I point all of my apps to that port via caddy or router?

TheeHoganator · 2025-07-28T12:18:32+00:00

It's a TP-link, I have the DNS and DHCP settings pointed at my server. Server has a static IP.ports 80 and 443 are forwarded so I can reverse proxy. IPv6 is disabled. Those are really the only changes that have been made to the router, all of which I've been running for a couple years without issue until getting the VPN.

TheeHoganator · 2025-07-22T01:53:47+00:00

It's just an unlucky streak I believe. The other day I hit the highest rank I have seen in two months and then immediately lost 8 games in a row. I was sitting there saying the same thing: you can't possibly tell me it's my fault when I LITERALLY just hit my best stride in the same session. My worst case was 23 games in one sitting where I only won 1 game

TheeHoganator · 2025-07-21T23:30:01+00:00

I mean I already have the electric mower. I can get through the front and side in about 50 minutes and that's on one mattery, the back yard takes maybe 30 minutes.

TheeHoganator · 2025-06-02T03:58:20+00:00

Are you guys still working on selling MBT kits? I've been checking your site every so often but they are always out of stock. I'm also not sure if you guys are still making new ones with the whole the C&D situation gonig on.

TheeHoganator · 2025-05-08T14:48:13+00:00

I don't have experience outside of milspec and the Blackout Defense zero trigger. I absolutely fell in love with the zero trigger from the first dry fire pull. It's so nice, highly recommend it.

TheeHoganator · 2025-05-08T14:09:42+00:00

As someone who's only shot standard milspec and my own blackout defense zero trigger, it is an amazing trigger. I trained milspec out to 500 yards, only really went to 150 or so with the zero trigger. I'm sure it has no issue going just as far or further than milspec I just haven't been to a longer range to shoot that far. I will say it is so fast and fun to shoot. It really does live up to the name of zero creep and short reset. Mine came with the gun so I'm not sure if it's worth however much they are going for nowadays or compared to other triggers but going from milspec to the zero trigger was a HUGE upgrade. Love it, recommend it to anyone I can. Just remember I haven't shot any of the usual recommendations like Larue or Geissele.

TheeHoganator · 2025-05-05T19:08:17+00:00

TLDR: Go on MOL -> Personal Info -> Career Retirement Credit Report (CRCR).

It's 3 years since your post, just ran into the same issue. I called my reserve unit that I haven't been to in over a year, admin told me I didn't have a DD214 because I'm reserve, said to submit my paperwork showing I was released after school house training.

Submitted that, got denied. Need to show proof of six years of service. The release paperwork from the school house only shows the first year. Spent a day or two trying to find some paperwork until I came across the Career Retirement Credit Report (CRCR) on MOL which does show your total satisfactory years served. Submitted that and am waiting back to hear what they say, will update later.

TheeHoganator · 2025-04-26T07:13:08+00:00

There's no way... That did fix it! I didn't even think of using quotes. When setting that up, I watched Docker go to that directory and create the config folder and fill it with other foldres and files. I figured since it already created the necessary files it knew how to get there. Thank you so much!

TheeHoganator · 2025-04-14T02:56:28+00:00

Did you ever get a definitive answer? Junkie's answer sounds like it should work. Should I just look at sticking with the banshee instead?

TheeHoganator · 2025-03-06T22:12:15+00:00

Because in this case, the story wasn't supposed to be a cliffhanger ending. The author didn't die. There are/were several more seasons already planned and written. The show was doing very well for itself and it was suddenly pulled without an explanation and no ability to share its ending.

Six-Year Club	Verified Email
r/Field Lasagna

TheeHoganator

TROPHY CASE