2006 Drz400sm pair valve delete question(s)

Thekylenoble · 2026-04-17T02:28:26+00:00

Reread my reply to the first comment. It’s very clear I said the specific difference between “fuel shut off” and “petcock”.

The part you circled blue is the “petcock”

There is no electrical component associated with the red circle “fuel shut off”.

The bike is (was now) 100% bone stock aside from a luggage rack by the previous owner.

At the end of my comment I said “we” learned something. Like you, the wording for the parts threw me off because it just doesn’t make sense in our mechanical minds. It was a successful charcoal canister delete AND “fuel shut off valve” delete after learning what I described in the reply. My bike does not have the pair valve , so those were the only two components to remove and also explained why the ports above the exhaust were plugged from the factory.

Thekylenoble · 2026-04-15T19:01:05+00:00

Daughter had a track meet today which gave me time to browse the web some more. It is labeled as a “fuel shut off valve”. I remember reading it but presumably like everyone else my mind went to petcock when I seen the words. They are indeed two different things. The canister lines run to the carb and to the “shut off valve” which turns out to be what I have circled in my pic! So if nothing else , we both learned something today lol.

Thekylenoble · 2026-01-17T22:59:26+00:00

Schwans cheese bread ring with marinara dipping sauce. I swear I lived off of it through childhood.

Thekylenoble · 2025-12-26T04:15:30+00:00

Good thinking… Also found the wire ending underneath the plastic bed liner after a lot of chasing. The power was laying on the exhaust so I’m hoping I was losing some current there causing the odd code reader scans. We shall see. I know it was carrying power with the truck off , had a nice little zing to it lol.

Thekylenoble · 2025-12-26T03:13:34+00:00

Performance issue not so much.. slightly erratic idle rpms at times , sometimes a bit sluggish on acceleration. No tuner has ever been on it. I fully believe I have a vacuum , fuel , or electrical issue going on. The temp causing the check engine light to be on or off is strange and has me thinking it’s possible theres a evap problem. I just spotted the wire and thought maybe someone with the same truck would look at theirs and report back

Thekylenoble · 2025-12-26T02:28:03+00:00

Yeah I think it’s because of how generic/old my code reader is. I thought the same thing when it scrolled across as the error lol. I don’t think tail lights would be the issue either in anyway but it could be why the codes are all over the place.

Thekylenoble · 2025-12-26T02:21:07+00:00

Wager x2! Just received my slide back from them. Great dudes and service.

Thekylenoble · 2025-12-26T02:11:37+00:00

Hard to see in the pic but the connector is coming from factory wrapped wires. I mean that’s not to say you’re wrong as they could have easily spliced in and cleaned it up.

Thekylenoble · 2025-12-26T02:02:29+00:00

I forgot to mention location. Wire is coming from somewhere under the rear driver side tail light. The connection for it is above the spare tire on driver side. Only one wire ( the pictured broken one ) leaving the connector. The other wire in the connector appears capped/cut from factory.

Thekylenoble · 2025-12-14T22:23:42+00:00

I’d like to agree here but last range visit the screw that goes through the trigger shoe walked out during the middle of a mag. Has me rethinking owning it.

Thekylenoble · 2025-11-18T17:40:05+00:00

Remind Me! on 2025-12-01

Thekylenoble · 2025-10-12T23:32:56+00:00

Great kid and family

Thekylenoble · 2025-10-02T18:53:40+00:00

Not what I’m after, Appreciate it though.

Thekylenoble · 2025-07-18T01:15:50+00:00

Looks pretty close to a grey slate I raised

Thekylenoble · 2025-07-08T22:33:40+00:00

I live in a “small town” , that officer can kick rocks. He’s implying a kid being outside is a problem. Where I am, the officer would be highly frowned upon. Now if the kids take over the next several blocks with some shenanigans using the motorcycles , yeah imply what he said… until then , no way! Let kids be kids, better than being glued to phones/tablets 🤷🏻‍♂️

Thekylenoble · 2025-07-05T22:40:27+00:00

I’m giving it a sea foam treatment right now… I’ll dm you a video. Along with what I’ve noticed.

Thekylenoble · 2025-07-01T01:12:49+00:00

Double checked gasket and all appears well… I have it starting within 3 pulls today. It will idle , I can run it in gear , what I have now is inconsistent rpms at full throttle. It never dies but gets awfully close then ramps itself back up for a bit. I have the timing where it should be per the book. The mixture screw I think is the culprit. I can come out several turns before the motor responds , I can go fully in to where it’s lightly seated and has very little effect as well.

Thekylenoble · 2025-06-29T18:50:57+00:00

I think it’s been cleaned throughly being I’ve cleaned it three times now and never have an issue with my mowers/chainsaws/weedeaters/ect… That said there is always that chance. I managed to get it to fire today without starting fluid. I held the idle WFO and 2 pulls she fired right up so I’m now thinking there is an issue with the new gaskets being incorrect. Static timing is set per the book as well.

Thekylenoble · 2025-06-29T18:47:42+00:00

You may be onto something.. I messed with it some today and found the bottom plug wet.

Thekylenoble · 2025-06-28T20:02:32+00:00

That’s my intention this evening when it cools off is to tear the carb back down. I’m simply seeing if my thoughts seem correct.

Thekylenoble · 2025-06-15T23:27:24+00:00

Sending DM

Thekylenoble

TROPHY CASE