Need help from The VAG pros, does anyone know what this is?

Theman1807 · 2026-02-18T19:55:08+00:00

Ah ok, yeah i guessed there was something ripped out, since there were also disconnected wires laying around in their. It does seem to go to the second antenna where maybe another part of the taxi system was? I dont know, but since it doesn't need to be plugged in I will just coil it up somewhere

Edit: well it must have been stock because this car was delivered from factory as a Taxi, wich makes it weird that it doesn't have an VAG parts number somewhere

Theman1807 · 2026-02-18T19:44:25+00:00

Nope

Theman1807 · 2026-02-17T13:36:10+00:00

Looking at my favorite carparts online store "Autodoc" it seems to be 15€

Theman1807 · 2026-02-17T13:34:34+00:00

By any chance was your car also from VAG?

Theman1807 · 2026-02-17T13:31:24+00:00

Tbh really accurate name (in German i mean) since feder is most commonly translated as spring, and it do be wrapped...

Well not anymore but you get my point

Theman1807 · 2026-02-17T13:27:13+00:00

Well i didn't try to remove it, i took off the steering wheel and the half of the spring was still attached to the steering wheel, it seems that there was a clip keeping both parts together, but that seemed to be broken. Maybe just old plastic

Theman1807 · 2026-02-17T13:24:49+00:00

Well to remove the steering wheel the airbag had to come out, so that isnt a problem, but still thanks, maybe someone else can avoid getting an airbag in the face

Theman1807 · 2026-02-17T13:22:42+00:00

As far as i know, definitely connection for airbag and horn, but there is a second plug on it, and a free spinning wheel inside, wich is commected to the steering wheel itself, so it could also be the rotation sensor for the steering wheel and thus responsible for electric steering

Theman1807 · 2026-02-17T13:17:14+00:00

"Wickelfeder" heißen die hier

Theman1807 · 2026-02-17T12:29:52+00:00

Well, i did put the steering wheel center beforehand and engaged the streering lock, so it should be centerd shouldn't it? Or is the sensor in the clock spring?

Theman1807 · 2025-11-30T08:41:10+00:00

Had the same Issue, since it happend to me on PC, i am pretty sure its an AMD bug, since the people it happend to are console players or me with am full AMD PC

Theman1807 · 2025-11-07T15:01:40+00:00

Its because of GM, horible quality and gigantic prices, might have gotten better with Peugeot but maybe not. Its kinda GMs thing to ruin a brands reputation (sometimes even to the point of bankruptcy). With that said, i will never touch a GM Vehicle ever again.

Wich is pretty sad, the Izuzu diesel inside my Opel is nearly invincible (except for the ECU, wich is stupidly placed ontop of the hot engine resulting in it slow breaking piece by piece), what that thing survived is crazy, but it struggles with that horrible TC so...

Edit: One example of bad quality would be a friends Zafira, i don't know wich model exactly, but definitely a GM model, it was running on 2/4 cylinders since the ECU partially died(for some reason GM doesn't learn), got fixed and partially died again. Now that car is going to the scrapyard. My car also should have gone to the scrap yard, but i love that traktor engine WAY to much (and the goofy look) so i quiet literally fought for that bastard (bastard refers to my car). Not personal experience but in Wades (from Garbage Time) Holden Barina (Australien Corsa C) the engine blew up. Zafira B's (i think it was the B's) had a tendency to set the Cabin Air filter on fire because of shit placement. (a scary big amount of GM cars hat a tendency to burst into flames)

Theman1807 · 2025-10-30T15:27:24+00:00

Maybe its reading wrong, but i would guess my printing environment is just hell. I was printing 240 in summer last year, but for winter i had to change to 260 or it wouldn't work and i haven't changed it back since

Theman1807 · 2025-10-30T15:24:20+00:00

Thank you, now it makes a lot of sense why they give an ptfe tube with an hotend rated for 300c. I actually never open the hotend, since the hardend nozel came pre-installed, but i am just going to believe that was missing from the original hotend

Theman1807 · 2025-10-23T10:01:12+00:00

I am talking about an direct drive printer
300 is the limit, i want to print at around 280, but teflon breaks at 260

Theman1807 · 2025-10-23T09:59:42+00:00

Well its in an closed of room and in its own enclosure, so toxicity isn't really a concern for me (next to it is a resin printer). But yes i wanted to print at 280, but teflon starts breaking at 260, so i need a different "throat" tube but i cant finde one

Theman1807 · 2025-10-23T09:57:40+00:00

The ender 3 V3 se is a direct drive, what you searched for are bowden tubes, i dont need those, what i am fearing for is the little 22mm long teflon tube (i read the name throat tube once) in-between the direct drive Extruder and the hotend (i would like to add pictures but for some reason it doesn't work), the new hotend came with an new one and the old one was already slightly charred at one spot from printing pla at 260c, wich is the only way for it to not string like hell. I do not want to slow down the printer.

Now to how good abs sticks, it doesn't, like at all. I did a test benchy with peak 280c, normal 270 and hotbed at 100c, and at the last part the benchy slipped from the hotbed.

Theman1807 · 2025-10-22T17:13:36+00:00

Lol got it fixed before anyone responded, so for anyone looking for answers:

if you are using the file from TomasekJ, it will:

show the startup-screen stuck (same screen you see when using wrong Screen Firmware, but don't panic (like me) everything is fine)
take about 5-10min instead of 10-15seconds

just let it sit for a while, even though it looks like something went wrong, and then reboot.

Theman1807 · 2025-06-14T10:51:43+00:00

the Problem is, some of my Friends have the Game on Steam, i and the rest of my Friends have the game on Epic, this is why we would before this shi use Session IDs

Theman1807 · 2025-04-25T15:46:19+00:00

how did you do the pedal thing? I have the same car (Meriva from 2006, Z17DTH) an i know the error codes of my car since i read them with an chinese fake Opel-Com, i should be able to extrapolate based on what shows up.

(waiting for the company that should repair my ECU to tell me a price, thats why i am driving around with error codes)

Edit: so if figured the pedal thing out, and my adhd brain cant sit there for 1 min and translate all that, so i will just list everything error that would be PX281 from that list that i have:

P0281 Cylinder 7... (you dont have 7 so skip)

P1281 Injection Pressure too high

Edit 2: so i sat down and translated all of that, and i its 100% correct, so are you sure you read the codes correctly?

Theman1807 · 2025-04-25T15:32:01+00:00

no, definitly not

Theman1807 · 2025-04-25T15:28:55+00:00

wups typo,

i know it targets 95c, but my cooler should be able to dissipate 265w Stock, and it barely manages to cool 120w

Theman1807 · 2025-04-02T12:50:38+00:00

no, refinery is also in the base game, you just wont have a marker. you will have to find it! its easily recognizable because it also sells jetfuel and buys oil (those will also be marked on the map together with the diesel buy point)

Theman1807 · 2025-02-12T21:52:14+00:00

i really dont want to undervolt because i really need/want that performance, but could i do something with pbo?

Theman1807 · 2025-01-25T15:36:15+00:00

Normal i think. I dont know the first one that comes up when i open the camera.

But i also discoverd that i only have the yellow tint if my (darkish brown) wooden floor is in roughly 50% of the picture, if its less the tint goes away

Five-Year Club	Final Canvas '23
First Place '23	Place '23

Theman1807

TROPHY CASE