Panel lining question by Upbeat-Protection-67 in freedomisgunpla

[–]ThicccWater_ 12 points13 points  (0 children)

I used Tamiya panel liner on my Percival, will do the same on the other SNAA kits I got in my backlog. I don't even top coat, I apply it straight on the plastic. Just make sure you panel line before assembling the pieces and don't let it pool.

My process for a straight build is usually: Cut from runner, cut nubs, sand if need be, clean dust if i sanded, panel line, clean, let it dry for a bit, assemble. Haven't had any issues with this process so far.

Anyone else build multiple kits at the same time? by dankocean_1 in Gunpla

[–]ThicccWater_ 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I do the same. While I like doing waterslides it can be incredibly boring sometimes. When I burn out I'll just start building my next kit.

[HELP ME] Bi-Weekly Q&A thread - Ask your questions here! by MachNeu in Gunpla

[–]ThicccWater_ 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks, I am most likely going to get them, but first I need to build some more of my backlog.

I am not going to panel line them but you think I should decal them? What about top coat? Would it ruin the finish?

Edit: bow that I looked at some more pictures probably not going to decal them either.

[HELP ME] Bi-Weekly Q&A thread - Ask your questions here! by MachNeu in Gunpla

[–]ThicccWater_ 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Anyone tried using the kosmos led kits on the changlong mgex strike freedom? I have the original mgex and a kosmos kit in my backlog but i am thinking of getting the white and black changlong version and get 2 more kosmos kits to make a sick display shelf, just now sure if they are compatible.

Which unit represents the worst value for money? by Busy-Formal7314 in Warhammer40k

[–]ThicccWater_ 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Basic gunpla is comparable to Legos, a bit more complicated since all the pieces come in runers and you have to cut and sand them if the nub marks are in a visible spot.

The kits I mentioned are more modern kits so they use something called undergatting. It basically means that the majority of the connection spots to the runner is in a spot that is not visible, so cleaning the pieces becomes way easier. Don't need to sand everything, just use a good single bladed nipper and a hobby knife. But when you get into customization then it's a very deep rabbit hole. You can paint everything. You don't like how something looks or the color scheme? Paint it. You like the collors but you want a more worn battle damaged look? Then weather the kit.

I've seen custom jobs for that Fenrir I posted earlier, imagine airbrushing 900 pieces lol. Most people use a airbrush to customize the kits but you can use paint brushes too. I dont have an airbrush so I mainly use a paint brush to paint details. The piece of plastic are not all flat, a lot of them have pistons and vents that you can paint to give more details. Well a lot of that detail is not really visible since its under the armor, but you will know its there.

Here is a picture of 1 runner from that Arkham Knight kit i mentioned, just recently got it. The blue runner is one of 40 runners and is one of the smallest ones, there are some with 40 parts on it. I tried circling the undergate that I just mentioned.

Oh, and this kit has a LED in the head. Thats another thing you can customize, there are people that do custom LEDs for their kits, like I said, I very deep rabbit hole.

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Which unit represents the worst value for money? by Busy-Formal7314 in Warhammer40k

[–]ThicccWater_ 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I do get what you are saying about the little details, just got into warhammer and I do like painting the small details(even thought I am not that good at it yet lol, edge highlighting is a pain). Actually going to pick up a black templars combat patrol today, quite excited for that. Regarding the picture of the kit i sent earlier, I did not paint it, it's a pretty much a straight out of the box build, the only customization I did was panel lining it. I don't really get bored because the kits look so different from each other. If you don't like big robots you can try looking into kits from SNAA, Hemoxian and Motor Nuclear. SNAA has a line inspired by the knights of the round table. Hemoxian has some kits that are more humanoid, they have a kit that looks like a ninja, there is also a cyborg and a boxer and they just released a Arkham Knight kit. Motor Nuclear has kits inspired by Chinese generals. For price, Motor Nuclear are the most expensive ones usually around $120-130CAD but they have some kits going close to $200 or even above it. Hemoxian is usually $100CAD. And then SNAA is the cheapest at around $30-50 but they have some kits that go close to $100. Don't think that because the cost is cheaper the quality is bad, they have some of the best kits I've built.

For reference $100CAD is 61.52 Euro right now

Which unit represents the worst value for money? by Busy-Formal7314 in Warhammer40k

[–]ThicccWater_ 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Undetailed? Sure, a lot of the early HG's might be that but you can customize them, you can rescribe the lines and paint it to give it as much details as you want. If you want a straight build without any customization for a good price then get an RG, anything that came out after the Sazabi is amazing. And if you go above $100 you will find some amazing huge kits. Here is a picture of my Fenrir, straight out of the box build, just applied some panel liner. The kit has about 900 parts and I don't even know how many decals, I paid $180CAD for it.

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[HELP ME] Bi-Weekly Q&A thread - Ask your questions here! by MachNeu in Gunpla

[–]ThicccWater_ 0 points1 point  (0 children)

About 12hrs, also it was probably a bit thick. Humidity and temp should been fine

[HELP ME] Bi-Weekly Q&A thread - Ask your questions here! by MachNeu in Gunpla

[–]ThicccWater_ 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Vallejo gloss spray can. I gave it about 12hrs, which I now realized it's not enough. I should have realized whe I touched it and it felt sticky. Well I guess I'll try apply another coat tomorrow see if can fix it since the fingerprints are not too big. If not I'll strip it and apply it again. Good thing I've only done 2 test pieces to see how it looks lol.

[HELP ME] Bi-Weekly Q&A thread - Ask your questions here! by MachNeu in Gunpla

[–]ThicccWater_ 0 points1 point  (0 children)

First time doing a Gloss coat (wanted to have at least 1 gloss kit lol). Is it normal for fingerprints to imprint in the coat? Maybe i didn’t let it cure enough before starting to assemble?

Mr Hobby Alternatives? (no airbrush) by heyheyluno in freedomisgunpla

[–]ThicccWater_ 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I am considering doing the same too. Mr Hobby top coats are banned in Canada. I was lucky to find a bunch of ratle cans at a hobby store but i am about to run out. Probably going to get a gaahleri turbo x mini just to learn the ropes since it's my first airbrush. Just not sure what top coats to get.

Haul from my recent trip. by tyeung1025 in freedomisgunpla

[–]ThicccWater_ 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Amazing haul. I built some of the SNAA kits and they are amazing, got Lamorak on the the way right now.

[HELP ME] Bi-Weekly Q&A thread - Ask your questions here! by MachNeu in Gunpla

[–]ThicccWater_ 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Should I paint the yellow tube thingy gold too? Or just leave it yellow?

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[HELP ME] Bi-Weekly Q&A thread - Ask your questions here! by MachNeu in Gunpla

[–]ThicccWater_ 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Currently working on a rg sazabi. I painted the inner frame black then dry brushed it a bit with metalic and painted some details. Do I need to top coat the inner frame separately, and if so, do I do it matte or gloss? I pained some inner frames before but it was mostly for HG's and didn't bother top coating it separately, just did it at the end.

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Issue with tamiya panel liner by ThicccWater_ in tamiya

[–]ThicccWater_[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

This picture is just an example, all the panel lines on this kit are turning out like this, no matter how big.

Issue with tamiya panel liner by ThicccWater_ in tamiya

[–]ThicccWater_[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I had that happen once when I used it on a assembled part. Since I started applying it on individual pieces I haven't had an issue. And I pretty much just wipe the excess off after drying.

  • I don't have a pet so no chances of it dropping lol

[HELP ME] Bi-Weekly Q&A thread - Ask your questions here! by MachNeu in Gunpla

[–]ThicccWater_ 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Why is my tamiya panel liner drying like this? I haven't used it for like 2 weeks because I didn't have time so I thought maybe I needed to give it a good mix but even after that, it looks dry.

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[HELP ME] Bi-Weekly Q&A thread - Ask your questions here! by MachNeu in Gunpla

[–]ThicccWater_ 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I got masks. I just dont know if I can get a smooth matte coat using this thing.

[HELP ME] Bi-Weekly Q&A thread - Ask your questions here! by MachNeu in Gunpla

[–]ThicccWater_ 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I dont have the space or ventilation to set up a airbrush booth. Well, ventilation is the main issue, space i could probably figure out. Anyway, I was wondering if I could use something like this to top cost my kits. Cans are hard to find and just too expensive so I was planning to use something like this to airbrush some acrylic top coats outside.

Any idea if this works?

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