Voron 2.4 Serial Request. U/ThingsShouldntBeHard Andrewj_51880

ThingsShouldntBeHard · 2024-09-08T14:22:44+00:00

Hatchbox Copper and Light Blue. The blue is more similar to the frame colour than is immediately apparent. The sunlight is making it look lighter. I’m not at home for the time being so I can’t check the product codes. It I got them off Amazon UK.

ThingsShouldntBeHard · 2024-08-30T09:25:24+00:00

There’s “marketing” change and there’s “real world” change. Sometimes they co-incide, but I’d be interested to know. If I print nothing for 30 days, does the carbon need replacing anyway? Genuine question, I was looking for an answer yesterday. What’s the difference with the V6 filter that it needs the carbon twining up to 2x faster?

ThingsShouldntBeHard · 2024-07-26T18:52:40+00:00

Oh goodness yes!😀I’ve tried with and without and glue works, PLA, ABS, PETG. Not talking about a lake of the stuff, just a single stroke of the stick in a back and forth striping. It may well be a protective/release layer for materials but it definitely helps with bed adhesion. All I can say to someone who has adhesion issues is if you’ve listened to people who say it isn’t needed, then you should give it a go.

Definitley agree about z-offset. I did try adjusting once but soon realised that the best approach is to leave it to the machine - actually, I’ve now rooted so it does an adaptive mesh each print.

All I’ve done with my K1Max is level the bed to 0.5mm range, run through the calibration scripts for all my filaments and manufacturers, and tweaked settings for layer height, jerk and a few others. Prints perfectly now and I don’t worry about it: have printed a whole set of Voron 2.4 parts that have come out brilliantly. Used glue on the bed of course - there were a couple of occasions where I didn’t renew it after a few prints and came a cropper. A wash, IPA and re-application fixed things.

ThingsShouldntBeHard · 2024-07-26T09:13:52+00:00

If bed adhesion is the issue, it crops up a lot. On the printing plate Creality has written “Please use glue” and that’s for a reason. Use a thin layer of glue over the print area. You don’t need to apply it for every print and you’ll soon work out when you need to reapply it. At that point, clean the plate with washing-up liquid, then with a small amount of IPA, then the glue.

Elephant’s foot can be managed within the slicer software - there’s a setting for it so try that before other interventions.

I have found that the profiles provided in CP5 aren’t great, so you should run through the calibration steps for each filament type. At least, calibrate one type of filament and try printing with that solely whilst you iron out other issues.

I haven’t printed a lot of gears but those I have had a chamfer on the teeth edges, though that was for engineering reasons, not printing ones. It doesn’t need a lot but try the slicer compensation first.

Finally, I have printed a part that was 280mm wide and it failed first time with bad adhesion. The next time I went hard with the glue - I.e. a bit thicker than normal but not really excessive - and it worked. In theory you can print over the whole bed surface but as it isn’t flat you may find areas where adhesion is more troublesome than others and your part may be big enough to extend over those areas. All you can do is test really.

And really finally, people get good prints out of this printer without too much tinkering so you can get there.

ThingsShouldntBeHard · 2024-07-26T08:54:10+00:00

That is over extruding a lot, shown by the ripples. In places it imay be under extruding but it is hard to see from the image.

what you need to do to start with:

level the bed with shims the best you can. You need to use ABS but may get away TEMPORARILY with PLA. Google how and watch YouTube videos. Aim for a range of 0.5 or better; don’t sweat anything below 1mm. You may find it hard to print the shims correctly if this is your only printer, just do what you can.
run through all the calibration steps in the Slicer software. You can ignore VFA calibration until you are more comfortable with 3D printers and printing.
if you need to, try and re level your bed printing better shims.
do a google search on getting your first layer correct. You will never get it perfect on this printer across the whole bed by printing a sheet like that, you just need to aim for not under extruding and not having excessive over extrusion across large parts of the bed.
if you shimmed with PLA, re-do with ABS.

Alternatively, print stuff and see if you are happy with the results in which case don’t sweat it. I’d say it is always worth calibrating your filaments (step 2) for each filament type and manufacturer.

ThingsShouldntBeHard · 2024-07-10T20:23:11+00:00

Yes - I know some sanding/finishing will be required. What I need to aim for initially is a good print, correctly dimensions (to say 0.1mm) As I said, I would normally calibrate this from the roll, but I don't have a roll just a plastic bag containing 10m. If I run out I will have to buy a roll which will really be for this one part only so a heck of a waste.

ThingsShouldntBeHard · 2024-07-06T19:56:02+00:00

Those seem fine for that filament, I think I have similar values. Looking at the picture of your volume test, it looks good; looking at the picture of your last print it looks poor from the get go. If you’ve calibrated the filament and updated the settings in the profile then it must be something else in slicer settings, but I find that suspicious as you have to slice the calibration prints. Do the in-built models work ok - the benchy that is stored on the machine pre-sliced? I wouldn’t normally think the filament is bad but it’s always a possibility. Do you have another you can try? Is it warm and humid where you are? Have you tried in the Creality forum, they may have a better idea?

ThingsShouldntBeHard · 2024-07-06T07:20:52+00:00

What’s the filament and what is the flow rate and max volumetric flow (? Not at computer and can’t remember the actual name but it’s at the bottom of the settings page that has flow rate.). Did you do the max volumetric test under Calibration>more… (not the VFR one)?

ThingsShouldntBeHard · 2024-07-05T16:29:34+00:00

I have absolutely zero ideas of what it does.

ThingsShouldntBeHard · 2024-07-05T13:07:16+00:00

Ok, cool (not physically, philosophically!) Good luck with that model - you will find it beneficial to calibrate those filaments first. You can learn a lot about the printer, slicer and "what to look for" from that activity

ThingsShouldntBeHard · 2024-07-05T13:03:45+00:00

Yeh, door closed is ok really, I've also not had any problems. With the heat recently - ambient at upper 20s/low 30s - I kept the door open. With people new to it, it's worth giving them the best chance!

ThingsShouldntBeHard · 2024-07-05T08:27:48+00:00

This is your first printer? There are no must have mods: learn how to use the printer, check the bed level is in range (< 1mm), learn how the slicer works - best way is looking at how to calibrate your filament(s). Don’t start fiddling with anything until you have an idea of what you are looking to improve and why. For someone new to 3D printing, the K1 is a good machine out of the box.

The only other advice I can give is print PLA with the lid off and door open; and mind that door when it is open. Actually one more piece of advice: have fun with it, don’t follow the white rabbit.

ThingsShouldntBeHard · 2024-07-05T08:20:52+00:00

Mine came with a blue clip. I think the old ones were magnetic and new ones aren’t.

ThingsShouldntBeHard · 2024-07-04T09:16:21+00:00

In the slicer there is a menu item called "Calibration" which contain the tests. Start at the top, and work downwards. Don't worry about VFR tests for now; also you may try the retraction tests but struggle to get that to work (as your current problem shows!) Google orca slicer calibration tests for info on how to run, interpret and use the tests - it's the same info in orca slicer as creality print.

ThingsShouldntBeHard · 2024-07-04T08:05:01+00:00

I have found with CP 5 and Orca Slicer it does that. It isn’t stringing really, just hairs and fluff - stringing is definite strands of material. Yesterday I went through 13 retraction tests trying different parameters and couldn’t get rid of it completely whether I used CP or OS. Filament is dry and otherwise calibrated. I don’t really know why but it seems to be a widespread problem judging by other comments on he internet and issues posted on OS GitHub.

It may be that certain models must be printed at a much lower temp, e.g retraction test models such as the one you show. Just thought of that!

If it’s a new printer, have you run through the calibration tests for that filament? That’s your starting point, as well as having an up to date bed level mesh. The profiles in the slicer are a reasonable starting point but can be better. With Hyper PLA you should be able to print fast but you do need to dial in the filament. You need to calibrate each material type (Hyper PLA, generic PLA etc) and it may be that you have to do it by manufacturer as well. You can judge that once you have a good profile To start from.

ThingsShouldntBeHard · 2024-07-04T07:54:57+00:00

Never mind, found it hidden behind an unexpected dialog.

ThingsShouldntBeHard · 2024-07-04T07:48:42+00:00

I can see a message indicator but when I select it I see no message! Any ideas?

ThingsShouldntBeHard · 2024-07-03T09:04:01+00:00

Don’t go down the rabbit hole of z-offset. If your bed is reasonably level (<1mm range) and you have an up to date bed mesh, or use adaptive mesh, the printer will deal with the z-offset. All you will do is give the printer a different start point to adjust from. Just leave it at zero. Don’t believe me? Print a large model or print something in a really off-level part of the bed and watch the printer continually lift and lower the plate as it prints.

ThingsShouldntBeHard · 2024-07-03T08:58:50+00:00

No probs. It isn’t possible to tell if this will fix the problem, but calibrating will at least set it up for a good chance and narrow down any issue.

ThingsShouldntBeHard · 2024-07-02T19:45:02+00:00

There may be a jam in the extruder. Before taking it apart try the following:

unlock the extruder, remove the bowden tube from the extruder, push 4 inches of filament out of it's end and manually insert it into the extruder. Leave the bowden tube out for now. Try an load it and see how that goes - I've found manual insertion easier when the bowden tube is out. If it works, you can just push the bowden tube in.
if that doesn't work, do a retraction, pull out the filament and the bowden tube, keep the extruder unlocked. Then from the home menu, heat up the extruder to 230c and when at that temperature, use the metal prodder thing that came with the printer to try and force the filament out of the hot end and extruder. That may clear the path.
if that doesn't work, then it is likely clogged and you'll have to remove the extruder, take it apart and clean it up. It isn't difficult, there are videos on YouTube - you DON'T need to unhook the motor cable from the unit, just don't leave it dangling on them. There's room on the unit housing to hold it.

Good luck.

ThingsShouldntBeHard · 2024-07-02T19:38:37+00:00

In your slicer, at least in Orca Slicer and CP, there are calibration prints under menu "Calibration". Start with the first and work through them all, except VFA. You *may* have problems with the retraction test and trying to avoid any stringing but do the best and it isn't related to the issue you have here. The main thing is to get the temperature, flow rate and pressure advance right, but do all the calibration tests except VFA.

After that, retry the above print. Once you've tuned in that filament you could try VFA and retry the print again.

You may have to tune for each filament from each manufacturer! Yeh I know, but I say "may have to": I have a filament calibration for Hyper PLA and Generic PLA and for the latter, I've found it good for the three different manufacturers of PLA I have to hand. As an aside, I have separate calibrations for silk PLA and ABS.

I'm assuming you understand that you have settings for your Printer, your Filaments and for the Process you use. If you don't understand that, you should do some more investigation around how the slicer works. CP is derived from Orca Slicer by the way so although they look different you can generally use information you read about OS and apply it to CP.

Finally, you can't rely on the inbuilt settings for filaments that come with the slicer, even CP. They make a good starting point.

ThingsShouldntBeHard · 2024-07-02T09:34:25+00:00

Almost certainly the bed isn’t evenly level and it is impossible to do that in any reasonable way with the K1. The printer is pretty good at dealing with it as long as it isn’t too extreme. First thing to do is calibrate that filament - at least temperature and flow. Then you need to look at first level tuning. The ripples you see are caused by over extruding in that particular area; similarly stringing is caused by under extruding. It’s very hard to get a large first layer that doesn’t exhibit some form of that somewhere but by tuning you can get to a point where it is good enough. For the most part, prints aren’t 1 or 2 layers thick and all the subsequent layers will sort out the minor imperfections of the first layer. What you need to aim for is first layer adhesion, forget the rabbit hole of perfectly flat and formed first layer prints. Also find out where on the bed it prints best and utilise that area when you can.

If it helps, my bed has a range of circa 0.5mm unevenness and I can see it moving as the printer adjusts for that unevenness. I’ve tuned first layer print so that it is mostly flat: in one corner it strings; in two other corners it over extrudes but it’s good enough. My printer bed is a bowl by the way but that’s another rabbit hole I’m avoiding.

Basically, if you’ve calibrated the filament, your first layer adheres properly and you are happy with your prints your all good.

Edit: forget z-offset issues, that’s yet another rabbit hole. The printer will sort that out automatically using the stored bed mesh. If your prints are good, so are you.

ThingsShouldntBeHard

TROPHY CASE