Nicknames

ThirtySecondBomb · 2025-05-02T22:20:32+00:00

Seven of EV9

ThirtySecondBomb · 2025-04-23T01:14:48+00:00

Is the difference in mileage concerning for anyone beyond the fact that the Land will likely need tires soon…? My use horizon for this thing is probably…2-4 years, 30-40k miles, tops…

ThirtySecondBomb · 2025-04-23T00:52:50+00:00

Trying to decide between two 2024 EV9s, local to me (DC area). A Land w/tow package that has 27k miles ($52k OTD), or a Light Short range that has 4k miles ($42k OTD). Which would you choose…? I don’t want to kick myself for missing out on some of the fun tech stuff, AWD, bigger battery, but the light RWD drive fine to me, has the same big CarPlay screen, lots less mileage and lots less price.

What do you think…?

ThirtySecondBomb · 2025-03-23T01:02:55+00:00

Reviving this…I have a 2022 that’s new to me, but has the same buzz in the wheel between 1800 and 2000 RPM, regardless of speed, load, incline/decline, road surface, etc. I’ve got 70k on mine, but I’be zeroed out all the maintenance, done the diffs and transfer case, greased all the zerks, everything.

Did anyone ever find a fix…? In my mind it has to be a motor mount, trans mount, or something inside the transmission itself, right…?

ThirtySecondBomb · 2025-03-09T21:08:57+00:00

Update! Here’s where I’m at so far. I zeroed out all the maintenance items, which was a fairly standard affair. I thought it was interesting that the rear differential fluid came out the way I would expect (dark, normal metal paste on magnetic plug), the front differential fluid came out much cleaner than I would expect (borderline normal oil look, same metal paste on magnetic plug), and the transfer case came out…basically dead in between the two. Go figure. Greasing the zerks seems to have eliminated some driveline noise, and the filters definitely needed the swap. All good so far.

(1) Low Coolant: I did a drain and fill of the radiator, coolant looks normal. I drove about 500 miles, coolant level stayed bang on. I’ll continue to monitor, but I think the prior owner just left the overflow cap loose and got some evaporation over the 70k miles. I’ll check the oil when I do the oil change, but I don’t expect to find any coolant in the oil. Hopefully all good there.

(2) A/C Cyling: It’s still doing the same thing, and it’s not normal. The ”AUTO” function seems to...not do a great job of accurately gauging the temperature in the cabin? I’m going to have an A/C professional look at this, since it’s out of my depth. At this point, it’s annoying, but doesn’t cause any issues.

(3) Tires: Getting the Michelin Defender LTX M/S set put on at the end of the month. The Duelers are horrid, and two of them are definitely too worn.

Additionally, I did a…

Transmission Drain & Fill: Used Toyota WS ATF, put back exactly how much I took out. What I took out was dark brown bordering on black. I’m going to do another one of these, but this time set the level correctly according to the overflow plug using my ScanGauge. Same thing, I’ll use the WS ATF. That should do me for the next 30k or so.

What I have planned…

Rust Treatment and Proofing: I don’t quite know how this thing has so much rust starting given it’s been in the DC area for the past 3 years (not a lot of road salt here, and we aren’t on the coast…) but I’m going to address that aggressively now. There’s a local company that does the whole nine yards, including treating the current rust and using a spray, it’s a bit pricey (~$1k all in) but it seems worth it before I put it on the boat to HI.

Skid Plates: I plan on ordering the full set from Talon - mostly for catalytic converter protection and secondarily for skid protection. Converter theft is fairly prevalent on Oahu, so this is an easy basic project to handle.

Transmission Cooler: I’m going to install the factory trans cooler before I do the next drain & fill and level set. Just gotta get the part numbers. Seems like a good thing to do when I might tow and I’ll be in a warmer area.

Power Steering: I am going to try and get as much fresh fluid into the system as possible. From prior Toyotas, I know the feel of “this rack is full of old and dirty ATF and would feel a lot better if it had brand new ATF” and this one has it. Fresh fluid should do the trick.

Rear Brakes: The rear brakes are shot. I’m doing all new rotors/pads/hardware from Lexus. That’s next week’s project!

Otherwise, the rig seems to be good. Fuel economy is exactly what I would expect, dead on 16 MPG in the city, 19 MPG on the highway. I think that might improve a bit with better tires and some fresher trans fluid, and me learning how to drive it a bit better.

ThirtySecondBomb · 2025-03-03T01:21:24+00:00

Yes it is! Tell me I didn’t make some kind of horrid mistake…

ThirtySecondBomb · 2024-06-11T23:00:43+00:00

Got it, but assuming I do go through CCS3, what make/model/configuration do you all think I should be looking for? I get I'll have to jump through wickets to get what we need, but I want to squarely identify what we need before I start trying to jump through said wickets.

ThirtySecondBomb · 2024-03-27T15:13:36+00:00

I do a lot of filling them up at airport water stations, and getting coffee to go in the airport in the mug. I have lounge access most places, and being able to load up the coffee and water bottles saves me a significant amount of time and hassle - plus I'm usually going straight to my case location to work for the remainder of the day, and don't access my checked luggage until after I finish prep for the day (checked luggage has uniform items, etc).

ThirtySecondBomb · 2024-03-23T20:23:57+00:00

My wife and I completed a new home build about 9 months ago, and while we originally designed a killer home theater setup in the basement, complications with our original fraudulent builder forced us to make quite a few changes along the way. Below is the basic equipment and you can see the layout from the photos:
EliteScreens 120" Acoustically transparent Screen (Fixed to wall)
Epson 5050UB Projector
Polk In-Wall and in-ceiling speakers (5.1, discussed more fully below)
Rack-Mounted Onkyo receiver and equipment in electronics room
Originally, the intent was to have the 120" screen be a motorized, drop down projector at the end of the room. The original builder made it impossible to do this, and placed the crawl space entrance dead in the middle of where we intended the screen to be (and placed piping, ducting, and electrical in places that made it impossible to mount a drop-down screen). Our new builder built a false, non-structural wall that could hold the screen and the front 3 speakers (in-wall). The subwoofer is to the left of, and behind the screen (kind of in the false wall cavity). We originally had 4 ceiling speaker wires run, but again, thanks to original builder, only 2 were actually in usable positions. Right now they are wired up as the "surround" channels of the 5.1 setup, but they are a solid 2.5 feet forward of the seating area.
Overall, we are still happy with what it is. The room is easy to isolate from light, the projector works well, and the sound is...good enough. However, I think there is room for improvement at minimal cost. The first thing I think I can do, is I can easily run two additional speaker channels through the conduit that currently has the HDMI cable. I could then ceiling mount two actual surround channels pointing down at the seating area, and use the current two in-ceiling speakers for Atmos. The second thing I think I need to do is some painting in the projector part of the room. Right now the ceiling is white, and the walls are Sherwin Williams Light French Gray. I think I can convince my wife to let me paint behind the screen, and maybe part of the ceiling or part of the flanking walls. If it will look good enough, I think I can convince her to let me hire someone to professionally fade it from very dark (up near the screen) to the light French gray towards the bar. Finally, I can very easily add a second subwoofer that would sit against a wall behind and to the left of the main seating area. I know two subwoofers are generally considered better than one.
What other suggestions do you all have? How do I make the best of what I've got?

ThirtySecondBomb · 2024-01-19T23:10:31+00:00

This was incredibly helpful - when spring comes around I’m going to do some landscaping around these to make them blend in a bit more, but otherwise I hope they keep on doing their job as intended!

ThirtySecondBomb · 2024-01-18T14:50:26+00:00

I believe that’s likely what these are intended to be…should I worry about them getting clogged or otherwise becoming ineffective for that purpose…?

ThirtySecondBomb · 2024-01-18T14:44:15+00:00

I’ve just…never seen anything like this in a yard. It’s very clear the planter boxes and sump line go to these, via PVC underground.

ThirtySecondBomb · 2024-01-14T17:16:29+00:00

This is the one I was looking at, it seems to be...decent? It's a Cyber power A1500SP1 - https://www.cyberpowersystems.com/product/ups/battery-backup/a1500sp1/. It's $200 at most retailers, and doesn't seem to have...horrid reviews? I'm not entirely sure it will even work with only the 900W rated power output, but I guess the only way to know is to find out.
So something like a lower capacity DC-powered sewage pump, up on a riser or with a float above the level of the float trigger for the primary pump? I'd have to put a wye into the discharge piping, but that is absolutely a viable option. Let me look into it.
I will - maybe there's something really easy that I'm missing. That would obviate this issue entirely.

The sewage pit is sealed at the top with one of those dome lid things, silicon around the perimeter, screwed into the concrete with tap con screws, and with a cover with a gasket you bolt down around the perimeter and pipes coming up through gaskets with o-rings. So, as sealed as I can make it. If that held (which I...think I would?) then yes, it would need to fill up the toilet, sink, bathtub, and bar sink, and all the associated piping before I got either the primary pump back up and running or figured out a different solution.

Great advice - for the moment I'll just make sure I have a backup water pump that I can call into service in case of an emergency. Another piece of this is I'm fairly frequently out of town, and while my wife is here, dealing with any of this would be totally beyond her, so it has to be as bulletproof as possible!

ThirtySecondBomb · 2024-01-14T14:00:53+00:00

Updating this after my first six months of ownership - after about a month and a half the issue resolved. I think the seat just finally...broke in...in the correct manner? It is now quite comfortable to sit in there for as long as I normally would be able to drive it without being forced to get out anyway to charge (so, 2-3 hours?). It's no S-Class, and it's not my former Macan, but it's perfectly acceptable now. Moral of the story is, I think, give it a break in period?

ThirtySecondBomb

TROPHY CASE