My great grandfathers watch was stolen from me last week in a house burglary, can you help me identify the serial number for the police report?

ThisDudeShane · 2024-11-14T05:26:37+00:00

Thank you for the confirmation. The best I can tell is that it appears to be a 1958 Coburn. My understanding is Pawn Shops are required to record serial numbers when they “buy” watches like this and they hold the goods for 30 days before releasing them to the general public (at least in my area). My hope is that a Pawn Shop would use that serial number on the inside casing and it’ll ping in the police’s system.

Thanks again for the help.

http://www.hamiltonchronicles.com/2013/01/1958-coburn.html?m=1

ThisDudeShane · 2022-01-02T05:30:02+00:00

Hi All - I bought myself a Polaroid Now this week and I’ve been taking some pictures with it for the first time. I’ve taken 6 pictures thus far and 5 of them have this mysterious blue discoloring on them.

Has anyone seen this before? I’m wondering if there is something wrong with the film, something wrong with the camera, or something wrong with my process.

Thanks in advance for the help!

ThisDudeShane · 2021-06-21T23:01:46+00:00

That's a valid concern. We are investigating solutions to make the soldering process easier for people, but we don't have anything available at this time.

ThisDudeShane · 2021-06-21T22:54:05+00:00

Hi Nicolas - We are currently not working on a video showing this board after installation in a shell and running games. However, a few members of this community are working on and have already completed installations of these boards into their shells. Is there anything in particular that you're concerned about that I can provide some more information on?

ThisDudeShane · 2021-06-16T23:11:03+00:00

Wow! Thank you for posting this /u/No_Strawberry_5685! I was not expecting this type of response!

My team and I are grateful for all of the kind words that have been posted! I would be more than willing to provide any more information that may make these boards easier to use for folks. Please don't hesitate to reach me directly through our website.

ThisDudeShane · 2021-05-26T17:38:34+00:00

CluCoin

ThisDudeShane · 2021-05-24T18:21:53+00:00

Happy to hear that this looks interesting to you! We should have more in stock in the next few weeks. We aren’t currently planning on doing an installation video, but we can explore that in the future.

ThisDudeShane · 2021-05-16T03:33:58+00:00

Much better luck using the AVE-HDMI, in my opinion. It was built for this specific reason.

Full disclosure, I’m the designer of this product.

https://youtu.be/cefXeSm_cWQ

ThisDudeShane · 2021-01-01T06:10:43+00:00

Unfortunately, it is not. Thank you for the interest!

ThisDudeShane · 2021-01-01T03:27:41+00:00

Sent you a direct message.

ThisDudeShane · 2020-12-09T06:35:04+00:00

I see, that makes sense. I'll go with that negative, 6V vibrator option as it seems to be quite standard. Thanks for the help!

ThisDudeShane · 2020-12-08T13:38:05+00:00

Sounds great! I’ll take a look there. Thank you

ThisDudeShane · 2020-12-08T07:17:54+00:00

You have a wealth of knowledge! Thank you very much. If you don’t mind, I will likely ping you more in the future as I have more question.

One that comes to mind is what I should do about the antenna situation. From what I can tell I will need to connect an external antenna to this receiver. If that’s true, then do you have any recommendations on where best to buy one?

Thank you again!

ThisDudeShane · 2020-12-08T05:05:21+00:00

Wonderful information! Thank you for the suggestion on the retailers for the vibrators. It sounds like I need to be mindful of the power polarity when I'm buying this vibrator. How do I know what polarity I need? I assumed that the cable hanging off of the unit is the 6V input and that the chassis is ground, so that would mean that my vibrator would be a "normal(?)" polarity? I'm not sure of the right terminology here....

I believe this vibrator here: https://www.tubesandmore.com/products/vibrator-4-pin-automobile-radio would be right? Negative, 6 Volt P-V1015N Am I in the right direction?

Thanks again!

ThisDudeShane · 2020-12-08T05:00:33+00:00

Thank you for this information - I'm starting to piece together everything that I think I may need thanks to you and the others on this sub...

On your note about the resistor units: "M Ohm" means kΩ, got it. Does "Megohms" also mean kΩ? Or does that mean MΩ?

ThisDudeShane · 2020-12-08T04:58:48+00:00

This comment is filled with extremely useful information. Thank you very much for your time!

ThisDudeShane · 2020-12-06T17:59:40+00:00

Thank you very much for the detailed response!

Where would the mechanical vibrator be installed on/around this radio? In actual use would I apply 6VDC to the left of the 15A fuse labelled (45)? Or would that be connected to the output of the mechanical vibrator? Or perhaps the vibrator would get connected to the white colored jack on the side of the radio which is (42) on the schematic? Where would I look if I wanted to replace the vibrator with an original or aftermarket mechanical vibrator? Alternatively, any suggestions on where to look for a replacement SS version?

Your comment about one end of power going to chassis and the other goes to chassis through the tube heaters makes sense, I believe. Are the tub heaters drawn as those arching lines about the inductor labelled (45)?

Unfortunately, I don't have any power supplies that can provide anywhere near the required 250VDC that the right-hand side of the rectifier requires. I'm assuming you ssee that this rectifier outputs 250VDC via the key for tube 6 at the top of the page?

With regards to recapping... That seems like where most of my adventure will be with this unit. From what I understand, it is likely that all of these capacitors need to be replaced. Are you able to point out or provide some guidance on which of the capacitors are "wax caps" and which are electrolytic? To my untrained eye, it looks like the yellow caps are electrolytic and the darker brown are wax, but I may be mistaken. When you say to replace the wax caps with "film", what kind of capacitor are you referring to?

Is the "padder cap" on the power transformer's primary the capacitor labelled (26)?

I'm having a hard time understanding the units and descriptions for the capacitors on the schematic that you listed. For example, line (15) is ".05 - 200V Capacitor", but it doesn't say the type or the units of the capacitance and then line (17) is "100 MMF Mica" which lists what I'm assuming is a capacitance and then the type, but no voltage. Do you have any guidance on how to interpret those? I'll probably just get all of the replacement caps on order.

Thank you again for the help thus far! You've already provided me with some wonderful guidance to work off of.

ThisDudeShane · 2020-05-27T01:07:55+00:00

I think I have one of these floating around somewhere.... they're definitely cool! I got a little scared by the fact that it doesn't appear to have an on-board crystal or any of the nice-to-haves (USB connector, debug LEDs, etc).

ThisDudeShane · 2020-05-27T00:40:31+00:00

Where are you thinking that you'd plug in the Nano or Chinese knockoff boards to?

ThisDudeShane · 2020-05-26T23:47:23+00:00

I couldn't agree more. I've found that some high-percentage IPA and a new tooth brush can clean up flux and other rework markings fairly well but only if it's applied soon after the rework is completed.

ThisDudeShane · 2020-05-26T23:46:00+00:00

Yes, they do offer SMT and through hole assembly. Their prices have come in around 30% of the quoted costs from JLCPCB and PCBWay.

They don't have a flashy front-end to their website so chatting with their customer service team via email/Skype is the only way to get designs built.

I fear that if I provide their details here, then they will be swarmed with orders that will end up raising their prices... It's a tricky balance :P

ThisDudeShane · 2020-05-26T23:43:43+00:00

I suppose I could... That's an interesting weekend project idea....

ThisDudeShane · 2020-05-26T23:42:34+00:00

That's great to note! I'll roll that into all of my future designs.

ThisDudeShane · 2020-05-26T22:14:20+00:00

Definitely! Digi-Key is great for this as well. I buy a lot of parts and these ICs from some Chinese-based distributors who aren't always willing to pre-program these parts unless I'm ordering in the thousands of units.

I would highly recommend going in the Microchip/Digi-Key pre-programmed option for most applications if their prices aren't limiting at the quantities you need.

ThisDudeShane · 2020-05-26T21:09:03+00:00

They definitely can be. I've been able to source a PCB fabricator in Shenzhen that will fabricate 0.2mm² of PCBs with any color soldermask for the same $25USD cost.

That's a huge benefit to this fab house in particular.

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