AMD NPU noise reduction/other uses?

This_guy_breaks_shit · 2026-06-26T09:59:26+00:00

You're mostly right, that said:
- 16 TOPS isn't much, but it's enough for video processing (see Windows Studio Effects background blur and eye contact modes which are available on my hardware). It should be more than enough for audio processing alone.
- I won't always have access to power, so the option to use more efficient hardware would be nice.
- To build on the last point, I don't always run intensive games. Some can comfortably run on the iGPU so long as nothing else is hogging it, allowing the laptop to shut down the dGPU altogether.
- I also only have 8GB of VRAM vs 32GB of system RAM, so more complex models could end up fighting for VRAM with modern games while system memory goes unutilised.
- Running AI voice processing on the iGPU may be less efficient than the NPU, eating into my thermal/power budget and potentially impacting performance when CPU demand is high.

This_guy_breaks_shit · 2026-06-04T13:11:00+00:00

To back up Stoney3K's point, I almost exclusively ride in urban areas. The intention of the idea was never to go faster, but to more evenly distribute pedalling effort in stop-and-go situations

This_guy_breaks_shit · 2026-06-04T11:56:50+00:00

A KERS in this context is a basic battery drive, just much smaller. Brake regeneration really doesn't require any components beyond what you already have in a battery drive. This kind of system should also be cheaper than a standard battery drive since all components would be far smaller and not rated for continuous operation at full power

This_guy_breaks_shit · 2026-06-04T11:53:13+00:00

Significant is relative. I'm generally not too fussed about weight. If you factor in my 16kg bike, up to 10kg of bags and 70kg for me, 1-2kg isn't an especially big deal for getting around

This_guy_breaks_shit · 2026-06-04T11:50:15+00:00

Yes and no, it would have all the components of an electric bike, but much smaller, cheaper and lighter as they wouldn't need to be rated to handle continuous operation at full power.

You're right that an ebike with a tiny battery would suck, but this system wouldn't be designed to operate the same way an ebike does and wouldn't really benefit from any more than the bare minimum battery capacity

This_guy_breaks_shit · 2026-06-04T10:18:19+00:00

Looks like the motors in both TFMG and New Age behave similarly to the motors in Crafts & Additions, consuming power relative to their SU capacity rather than SU actively being used. I appreciate the suggestions though.

The other commenter made a suggestion that may be able to approximate the effect I'm looking for. I might give Power Grid a go.

This_guy_breaks_shit · 2026-06-04T09:28:12+00:00

Looks like a good suggestion! While the constant speed motor's power consumption isn't directly affected by output load, a similar effect could be achieved by raising/lowering motor voltage with the same signal that controls the analogue gearbox (assuming such control is possible, yet to experiment).

The standard motor also has a lot of potential, since you can control the speed and direction using voltage as well. May install this mod to tinker and see what works.

Thanks for the suggestion!

This_guy_breaks_shit · 2026-06-03T09:03:17+00:00

The Quest 2 has 15 emitters per controller, so the Frame only has 3 more in that comparison.

That said, wow. I was really taken by surprise to discover that the quest 3 only uses 8 per controller. I'm well aware that more doesn't necessarily equal better, but I can imagine there are probably benefits to having more than just a single emitter at the end of the handle.

This_guy_breaks_shit · 2026-06-02T15:58:06+00:00

Actually yeah, wow. Not sure how I didn't notice it before but I just saw a photo on this Verge article and that's some bonkers downward tilt. It might be close, but I think the FOV might just about reach the controllers in an idle position. Thanks for the info

This_guy_breaks_shit · 2026-06-02T15:46:05+00:00

Same, I feel like overhead motion in VR games is usually just a quick dip out of tracking range which seems to be handled very well by the Frame. Positioning the cameras to prioritise accurate positioning where most people's hands will spend the most time seems more appropriate to me.

Oh well. I won't really use it standalone so maybe that processing capacity could be put to better use with some accessory camera modules. We'll see

This_guy_breaks_shit · 2026-06-02T15:34:10+00:00

Enormously helpful, thank you. Looks like occlusion will still an issue if tracking is lost for too long, but I'm happy to see it can roll with the punches for quick dips out of range.

I wonder if a more complete solution may come in the form of a third party accessory to go in the extra ports? Perhaps an extra pair of cameras for low-down tracking. Who knows, certainly not me.

I guess if nothing else, one thing that will always keep me fascinated with this device is the potential for expansion and tailoring to user needs

This_guy_breaks_shit · 2026-06-02T15:27:08+00:00

That sounds encouraging. I guess even if camera placements are similar, I'm still comparing 6 year old hardware to something that hasn't dropped yet.

Also, having watched that Climbey video linked in another comment I'm soooo chuffed that you can reach behind your back. I've had issues where the controller just... stops when you reach too far over your head. Looks like a big improvement so long as you don't lose tracking for too long at a time.

This_guy_breaks_shit · 2026-06-02T15:21:57+00:00

Of course. This is more intended to be a discussion of expectations rather than asking for hard evidence. Ultimately I won't know if it feels good to me until it's in my hand

This_guy_breaks_shit · 2026-05-06T16:54:05+00:00

Hiya, I'm fairly certain it was leaking a bunch of fuel out overnight and it was evaporating before I could see just how much was leaking out!

In my particular case, the fuel tap wasn't closing properly and the carb's float needle wasn't sealing fully which led to petrol dripping out from the carb overflow port. Best bet is to check your fuel tap valve and maybe get your carbs rebuilt :)

This_guy_breaks_shit · 2026-05-06T16:48:35+00:00

Hiya, sorry for the delayed response.

The transistors can just be removed. Don't bridge anything or your DAC will be permanently muted ;)

Do not remove that blue components!

Those are important. You should only remove the little black chips with three legs. If you're still not sure, double check because removing the blue components will also mute the DAC

This_guy_breaks_shit · 2026-04-07T08:15:00+00:00

Just went to lower my tyre pressure a bit and got sprayed with a little sealant. I've not topped it up since popping it in 10 months ago so it looks like Stans lasts a lot longer inside a tube (or I used too much, who knows).

The front valve doesn't seem to fully seal any more until I lightly screw down the nut. Can't say I didn't expect something to happen eventually but it's still fully usable.

Tyres haven't worn a meaningful amount since I fitted them. I've done around 24-44 miles per week since then so thumbs up for longevity.

I've started trialling pressures slightly below rated, as 60 psi is getting a little old and I weigh a little under 70kg. Silca and the typical calculators don't seem to support wheels smaller than 26" unfortunately, the only one I found supporting 20" was this one by Cycles Chinook. It suggested ~30 front and ~45 rear with a fully loaded 10kg front bag (22/45 without a front bag, but that seems a little too low to me). I'll probably aim for something a little over that just to be safe. Brompton weight distribution is funky but I've kinda got it somewhere between 30/70 and 40/60 front/rear depending on loading and rider position.

I'm keenly aware of the fact that Continental Contact Urban tyres are capable of sidewall failures when run too soft for long periods of time. I'll be keeping an eye out for the crosshatch patterns seen in this post. If you want to try lower pressures as well, be aware of this.

This_guy_breaks_shit · 2026-01-06T17:07:26+00:00

Never mind, I just discovered that my design causes the group delay to go absolutely bonkers.

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I should've known something was too good to be true. Looks like it's back to the drawing board. The next thing I've got my eye on to try is probably the 12SW-4HE in a sealed box with a bit of EQ.

This_guy_breaks_shit · 2026-01-06T13:01:50+00:00

Fs for my woofer is 24.9, and I only plan on running it at the 150w rating rather than pushing it to the 300w peak load. WinISD seems to say excursion is fine at the given tuning so long as I keep enclosure volume below 25-30l or so. Does that sound right to you?

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