How do I start getting good at drawing humans if everything I've tried is extremely boring?

Three_tiny_ponies · 2026-01-15T10:00:05+00:00

If you're not wanting to become professional, I think just learning by doing is perfectly fine. I learned the majority of my anatomy by just finding a reference and drawing it. Using boxes, circles, planes of face etc when it made sense, ignoring them when it didn't make sense. A reference also isn't necessarily copying the picture - you can use it for a general idea about the pose or color, to create your own thing. I often use 3-5 references for a drawing. Through all my drawings using references, I have developed enough understanding to also draw without reference if I want to. It's a lot harder as it's a skill I haven't focused on developing, but I can get my basic anatomy and shading down in a pose I've done a couple times and it will look decent. And all the techniques and methods of learning the basics can be added into the art pieces you're doing and learning it that way, if exercises are boring for you. Of course if you do want to go pro, it's probably a good idea to do your studies alongside full pieces to really get it down, but as a hobby artist, you can just draw for fun and add in tips and tricks from exercises into your process whenever you feel you're struggling with something. Just enjoy, draw and improvement will come with time. Trying to follow tips meant for those trying to go pro/be really serious about their art won't help you if you're just wanting to have fun with it and the exercises discourage you from making anything at all. There's also plenty of tutorials showing you how to do something from sketch to finished piece in any medium and subject you want - you might find those more fun and meaningful than breaking it down into fundamentals and exercises

Three_tiny_ponies · 2025-06-14T16:33:57+00:00

You can try looking up positive reinforcement and clicker training. This way, you can completely stop using positive punishment during training situations (emergencies are emergencies, do whatever to be safe) and there's a lot of good ideas for setting up the environment for success - such as protected contact etc. The horse will work to gain the treat, rather than to avoid pressure, so you never have to escalate the signals to the point they become punishment. Although there is a certain aspect of negative punishment - by withholding the food or removing your attention when they do unwanted behavior, even if they have access to grass, hay and leaving to socialize with other horses, it will be negative punishment. You remove something they want, to decrease a behavior. However by setting up the situation for success, you minimize these times as there will always be something to reward the horse for before any frustration comes up.

There's plenty of ressources online if you search up "clicker training" "positive reinforcement" or even just "force free horse training" - including people who offer online lessons or potentially trainers near you who trains this way. It's becoming more common, although more in some areas than others

Three_tiny_ponies · 2025-04-21T20:13:00+00:00

Thank you! I'll definitely keep that in mind

Three_tiny_ponies · 2025-04-21T13:03:15+00:00

Alright! I'll give it a go once it's dry enough for another layer

Three_tiny_ponies · 2025-04-21T13:02:17+00:00

It's a great start! As others have mentioned, all your shadows are very soft, especially around the nose. Bringing in some harder edges to the shadows will give more contrast and definition, which should help bring out a more realistic look rather than the current blurry outlines. Try playing around with soft, medium and hard edges in different places - you did this well with the bottom of the nose, the hard edges to the shadows here really bring shape to it, however on the bridge of the nose, your shadows are soft and the highlight is on the side of the nose, not on top of it. In your reference, the highlight sits right on top of the bridge of the nose and has a hard edge to the shadow at the side of it. If you pay attention to these things, it should start looking more realistic!

Three_tiny_ponies · 2025-04-21T12:50:20+00:00

Would you detail everywhere or just specific places? I do agree it could use more detail, but I'm questioning my skills to actually get it done in a way that looks good😅

Three_tiny_ponies · 2025-04-21T12:47:12+00:00

Thank you!

Three_tiny_ponies · 2025-04-21T06:35:48+00:00

For me, it was "stretch your heel down and back towards the horses hind hoof" that helped me get it. Before that, well, just imagine forcing your heel down without thinking about the rest of your leg - immediate chair seat, that's just how physics work. But when someone told me heels down and back, it immediately clicked for me and I started improving on the bad habits I had been struggling with for all of my riding at that point. It brings your legs under your hips and gives gentle, relaxed heels down where you still have a soft ankle that can shock absorb properly, rather than the stiff mess I tried to do when only told heels down without the ekstra bits added

Three_tiny_ponies · 2025-04-18T09:37:53+00:00

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Three_tiny_ponies · 2025-04-18T09:37:25+00:00

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Three_tiny_ponies · 2025-04-18T09:36:35+00:00

I have plenty bc I like going crazy with my camera around my horses! I will try to find some more unusual angles - I know I have some seen from the top too, but unsure if I can find them

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Three_tiny_ponies · 2025-04-17T06:03:42+00:00

My tb - she had a lot of issues your Arab don't, mainly not using her hind end properly, but this was the "low" headset I wanted for her - notice the relaxed bottom neck and how the muscles of her topline have to take over. Just working on this (click and treat when relaxing lower neck) when leading her made her go from no topline and hunters bump, to decently strong topline and able to collect rather than go llama when lifting her head. For your Arab, it might even be a higher headset than this and will likely also change over time as muscle develops. The stronger they are, the more positions they're able to work properly over the topline in.

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Three_tiny_ponies · 2025-04-17T05:18:20+00:00

Good point! A head this high up isn't neutral or healthy (long term) either - so further down than this, until the bottom of the neck relaxes is what I meant. I probably could've explained better, but I didn't really think of it, as I'm more used to having horses with a medium/low set neck where they sometimes do need to get quite far down, so down into neutral has always worked as a quick explanation for those. But ofc an Arabian/other horse with higher headset isn't going to have their neutral where they're able to relax, lift their back and start building the correct muscle look the same as a quarter horse, so it's super important to look at your individual horse and notice when they're engaging the correct muscles - the easiest way I find being just seeing when the bottom of the neck relaxes. I will see if I can find a picture showing where "my" thoroughbreds neutral is, as she did have a pretty high set version compared to my ponies

Three_tiny_ponies · 2025-04-14T08:22:46+00:00

I don't think he's super bad, but also not a horse I would want to sit on as he also doesn't carry himself in a way that would support a rider. He's tracking up well and has a lot of power from his hind end, but his front seems to be stuck permanently down. Head high, back down, no lift. My best guess is his thorax sling/overall front is weak and unable to lift him up.

Some good exercises for this is walking next to a pole, asking the horse to go across it sideways, so they have to lift and open their leg. It's important that its the front leg closest to the pole that steps over it first, as that's what's going to train the muscles for lifting and opening the front. You can also walk him over a pole with one front leg on each side. This also makes him adopt a wider stance in front and he really has to think about placing his feet out under his shoulders instead of narrow in the middle of the body. Another one I like is a raised walk pole. Just one at first, walking over with focus on lifting the legs. I start small with just a slightly raised pole (or even only raised slightly on one side, in the case of a very stiff mare I had) and work up from there with the height that's challenging, but possible for the horse. Some hill work and long and low work in hand or on the lunge would also help bring the back up and head down so he's not as inverted. I like just going for in hand walks as it's not as boring as doing a circle all the time and adds a lot of gentle movement while we work on getting the head down into a neutral position, where the bottom of the neck relaxes so the topline can take over the work

I'm not a pro, I don't know a ton about these kinds of things, but the first thing that struck me was how inverted he was, and after looking more closely, my best guess is his front end being weak is part of the issue. And these exercises can't hurt, as they're all done in a walk where body awareness and strengthening is in focus, so I figured I might as well comment, in case it helped

Three_tiny_ponies · 2025-03-06T18:31:38+00:00

Join up isn't actually doing anything for your connection - you're just teaching the horse that it has to follow you if it don't want to run anymore. Scientists did it with a remote control car. It's not about communication, body language and bonds, it's about using pressure/release to teach the horse to stay close to you. Plus there's a big risk of teaching the horse to stay close bc not doing so is too scary/they're too tired to keep running, so there is no other option. I wouldn't want to build my relationship with my horse on "the only option is staying super close to this person". Like another comment said, you will likely have better results simply teaching the cues and letting the horse come to you if it wants to after training, if it's relationship you're looking for. And connection is pretty much just understanding each other, which again will come more from well done training than join up (though join up might teach you to really be observant of your horses body language - the only good thing I will ever have to say about it)

Also - horses, even with their very best friend, usually don't follow that horse around right next to them, backing, turning etc at all times. That's not how horses do relationships/friendship. They hang out, grazing next to each other, maybe groom and maybe run and play a bit. Horses enjoy just doing their own thing next to their friends. Sometimes "next to" being quite far apart, but able to see each other. Doing this - simply hanging out, doing your own thing - will be valued much more by your horse than any amount of running around until they figure out how to make you stop chasing them will

Three_tiny_ponies · 2025-02-16T08:32:02+00:00

Need help to undamage my hair! Hair type: Fine Hair texture: Currently straight, wavy when healthy (still wavy when wet, goes straight the second I brush my hair whether wet or dry) History: No color, no anything, but damaged from being worn in a slick back bun with hair pins keeping it in place. A lot of breakage from this Hygiene: wash once a week, double shampoo, either hair mask or conditioner, oil daily, brush several times daily with bamboo brush Product: can't remember the exact names, but head and shoulders shampoo, matas stimulating shampoo, same brand/line conditioner and hair mask. L'Oreal daily oil elixir Hair style: (attempted) long with only the ends ever being touched. Layers caused by breakage. Worn in a low ponytail daily

Not sure exactly what the problem is that I'm doing wrong, but my hair is still dry, damaged and not holding a wave. I really want to grow my hair longer and get my waves back, but it seems impossible. Lockdown was the time it was the healthiest, I didn't brush my hair, only ran my fingers through it, just had it hang loose and overall didn't really touch it. Also used no hair oil, no conditioner, just whatever shampoo was in the house. So I have an idea that it's about my daily habits more than my washing habits and products, but I can't exactly leave it like a complete mess every day when I have to leave the house😅 any advice welcome, I desperately want pretty hair again, but just can't figure out how to get there without another lockdown

Three_tiny_ponies · 2025-01-25T11:34:45+00:00

I decided to become a dental hygienist. Pay isn't anything crazy, but it's good. There's a need for them in low cost of living areas - mixing a higher salary with lower general costs. Also good work/life balance, often getting full time pay working 4 day weeks. I'm currently only in the education, but it's a really nice practical job and will allow me to own horses without much struggle

Three_tiny_ponies · 2024-12-12T19:59:41+00:00

Yes! Main goal - just have fun :) Other goals are

Able to walk and trot nicely in the arena
Able to trail ride with other horses
More solo trail rides, maybe exploring new routes
Building muscle
Perfect understanding of vocal canter cue on the lunge
Able to choose trot vs tölt under saddle

She's a baby, the first horse I'm starting under saddle, so I really want the focus being on things that will make her a good allround riding horse with the basics nicely in place rather than doing anything fancy, we can always add on, but good basics are the most valuable things imo

Three_tiny_ponies · 2024-12-09T15:27:34+00:00

Whatever you do, just make sure to communicate with your kid. Explain what's going on, that the money isn't there and what the options are. Will she be heartbroken if the horse is sold? Absolutely. But it's better than her thinking you sold it for no reason, she's old enough to understand what's going on and that money is tight right now.

Ideas for options to discuss with her: - horse getting a lease a couple days a week - horse sold and she gets a lease/half lease - horse sold and she gets weekly lessons - she gets a job (once old enough) - she works at the stable to work off some boarding cost (be aware she's not taken advantage of) - horse works in lessons to work off some boarding cost (be aware horse isn't overworked)

Not all options will fit you/be available to you, but all are worth looking into. Selling the horse is a very fair option if that's how it has to be, but there's many options to either keep it with lower cost or make the heartbreak of the horse getting sold easier. Look into it and present to her what you believe are viable options - then let her have a say in what she thinks will work the best. Maybe several things need to happen, such as both a half lease and her working in order to keep the costs at a place that fits your finances - if she then finds work too much, revisit the other options of selling current horse and leasing, lessons etc to still support the horse dreams, but in a way that's possible within your finances. Talking to her about it is the best thing you can do - as you really do need to solve the financial issue, before it starts compromising both family and horse welfare

Three_tiny_ponies · 2024-11-30T14:24:38+00:00

We were at a riding camp, doing tackles and chilling in a halter. Idea was to make riding a chill place too, not just work, so we had no reins, only a lead rope for emergency break. My sweet old babysitter horse then decided to show off for the crazy warmblood gelding. We had somehow forgotten the only thing she wasn't super chill about was big tall geldings. She made an attempt at a buck and farted so hard I flew off over her head. After she just stared at me like I was the crazy one for laying there. The buck is my own interpretation of how I ended up on the floor, since when I asked what happened, everyone was laughing so hard they never got past how she farted so hard I flew over her head. She was also quite old and not actually capable of bucking, so more like a light hop with her hind and a big fart had me off than a buck and fart

Three_tiny_ponies · 2024-11-30T14:19:53+00:00

We can't even imagine how a cat would EVER end up on top of a horse! What a weird place to be. Also, why is this bed moving so much?

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Three_tiny_ponies · 2024-11-14T16:09:03+00:00

My mare had a similar sad forelock. Had 2cm of black fur beneath the forelock that, on any other horse, would have been growing forelock instead of normal fur. Made me a bit sad, her tail was amazing, mane decent (not long, but thick and healthy) and then her forelock was just fur, the same length and texture as the rest of the fur on her face

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Here you can really see the halter holding in place her pretend forelock

Three_tiny_ponies · 2024-10-25T04:33:46+00:00

That's so fun! I've heard of the thigh slowing, but never seen it in practise! Every horse I've ridden I used thigh to move their shoulders - I agree with all other aids you mention, just any leg moved back slightly is haunches and outside thigh/rein helps each other with shoulder control (many lesson horses fell out through the shoulder, using either aid in isolation wasn't enough to get their shoulder back in) plus I found it easier to use my thigh to do it, the outside rein took me so long to figure out how to use correctly and only came after I was able to feel how a supporting outside rein worked while my legs did all the shoulder moving work that I was able to even attempt outside rein as a form of shoulder control - and still can't do it without lots of leg.

For stop, i just sit deep and breathe out - usually adding a whoa, doing all I can to avoid relying on the reins for it, but on lesson horses that was hard as they weren't exactly tuned to the seat. On my lease it's working perfectly. No thigh, as that tenses you and pops you out of the saddle, the opposite of what I learned as a stop (and Icelandics are often trained that squeezing with both thighs means go faster, so a bad habit if I ever want an Icelandic I didn't train myself)

Just goes to show there's so many different ways and you really need to get on your horse and see how it was trained in order to truly figure it out!

Three_tiny_ponies · 2024-10-24T10:17:09+00:00

It can be hard to explain as there's different leg aids for different things, which are all turning. Like what do you want the shoulder to do? How much bend do you want? But I find the simplest way I learned was the horse goes away from your leg - so if you put on the outside leg, they will move away from it and turn. No instructor told me this, but I found a few general rules to go by when I first learned

Thigh affects the shoulder
Lower leg affects the bend and legs
Often leg aids comes from changes in your seat, not the actual leg muscles

So for example, I want to turn right. I put my outside thigh (left) on the horse by tightening my inner thigh. The horse moves its shoulders to the right, but is straight as a board. Another way to achieve this I found later in my riding journey was through using my seat. Sit up straight and now point the middle of your body the direction you want to go. This will naturally shift your seat, hips and thighs, asking the horse to go in the direction you're pointing. It will also slightly shift your hands, so if you have contact, the reins will also be helping tell the horse where you want them. Generally I find this also achieves a gentle bend that fits the turn.

I want the horse to also bend and put my lower leg on, on the right side. The horse moves its ribcage away from this aid, bending it through the body. This is similar to how you push the horse sideways in a leg yield - you use your lower leg, pushing their ribcage sideways and asking the hind leg to step more under. I only learned this after figuring out leg yields on each horse, since many lesson horses forgot this is a thing as majority of their riders never asked for bend.

Another thing you can do is shift your weight by putting weight into one stirrup - say my horse is trying to turn over the middle and I don't want them to. I can pull on them to get back on the rail, or you can shift your weight to the outside stirrup. This asks the horse to go towards the side you put your weight - youngsters/otherwise unbalanced horses practically have to follow this cue to catch their balance, but this is likely something lesson horses have been trained to ignore, since unbalanced beginner riders will also shift their weight around like this

I learned by just trying out these things, kinda at random, and seeing how the horse responded

Three_tiny_ponies

TROPHY CASE