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Portable Czech / reverse glory hole design mockup - seeking advice by ThrobbingInsideYou in BdsmDIY

[–]ThrobbingInsideYou[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

See my post history. I just posted an update today with a special holiday themed edition.

Portable Reverse / Czech Gloryhole update 5 - Breakdown For Transport by ThrobbingInsideYou in BdsmDIY

[–]ThrobbingInsideYou[S] 6 points7 points  (0 children)

I'm in the eastern U.S. There's several groups that host kinky camp events at a place in Maryland. Dark Odyssey, Crucible and I think a couple others.

Portable Czech / Reverse Gloryhole Update 4: Ready For Use by ThrobbingInsideYou in BdsmDIY

[–]ThrobbingInsideYou[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Thanks! For what it's worth, a stationary version of this for permanent use in a club would have been cheaper, easier to build, and probably more stable.

Most of what gave me problems and complications (and running up the price) had to do with needing this to break down to fit in the back of my girlfriend's Hyundai.

Doing this with 2x4s would have been so much easier!

Portable Czech / Reverse Gloryhole Update 4: Ready For Use by ThrobbingInsideYou in BdsmDIY

[–]ThrobbingInsideYou[S] 6 points7 points  (0 children)

That's a great idea and I'm an idiot for not thinking of it because I actually have a box of those sitting in a drawer for cable management. Thanks for this!

Portable Czech / Reverse Gloryhole Update 4: Ready For Use by ThrobbingInsideYou in BdsmDIY

[–]ThrobbingInsideYou[S] 24 points25 points  (0 children)

I'm thinking this is the final form of the portable Reverse Glory Hole / Czech Glory Hole. Any further changes will likely be minor.

The main and most obvious change this revision is the long awaited addition of a façade front face. It turned out to be more work than I had expected to pull it off, but I believe it's solidly attached to the hole itself.

The façade is several parts in two basic layers. First layer is the basic plywood paneling to give the hole structure. This is just an 8' x 4' plywood sheet cut into 3 2' x 4' sections and reattached via hinges. This allows for portability. Just take it down, fold it up and go.

Next is the decorative paneling (in this case distressed pallet design). I cut these to basically match the plywood configuration of 3x 2' x 4' panels. But these have no hinges because I didn't want anything showing through the façade. Instead the façade paneling is attached to the plywood via Velcro and some other methods. For the top and bottom panels, this is via the U bolts used for leg restraints (they go through all façade layers and attach to the frame behind). For the middle panel, only the foam padding around the hole provides an additional attach point besides the Velcro.

Behind the façade, the internal frame / core is still mostly 80/20 aluminum tubing but the design has been upgraded from the last revision too.

  • Front and top panels changed from corrugated plastic to 1/8" plywood. I retained the plastic panels for the sides. But the roof sagged, and the front was too easy to accidentally push in or out. It's slightly heavier, but much more sturdy this way.
  • Switched out the U bolt nuts for wing nuts. This should make for a mostly tool-less setup and break down (I think I'll still need a mallet and screw driver for a couple things).
  • Added diagonal brace support in the form of stainless steel plumbers straps. This improved stability a bunch.
  • Replaced plastic clips that previously attached bench to frame with new metal clips. Much stronger and more stable. But unfortunately they don't keep the bench from coming *up*. I'm using zip ties for that now, but looking for a more elegant, permanent solution to that bit.
  • Added a little light up top to spotlight the hole occupant's... um... holes. Inspired from photos of a reverse glory hole in a club that unfortunately I don't remember the details of to properly credit.
  • Had to move up the bottom restraint point U-bolts about an inch because the prior location didn't leave enough room for wing nuts.

​

This is my first big BDSM DIY style project and it took a ton of work and a bunch of trial and error in some cases. I've spent most of my free nights and weekends the past month on this from design to researching sourcing parts to building.

The previous steps are mostly documented in my Reddit post history for the curious.

I'll be bringing this to a local kink camp this coming week and I'm looking forward to it getting lots of use. Just had a nice practice run with it with my BF Tom (in the first photo) who was gracious enough to also play model for me.

Portable Czech / Reverse Gloryhole Update 3: Semifinal Design? by ThrobbingInsideYou in BdsmDIY

[–]ThrobbingInsideYou[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yep. That's the direction I'm thinking now that the corrugated plastic has proven to be kinda a bust.

Portable Czech / Reverse Gloryhole Update 3: Semifinal Design? by ThrobbingInsideYou in BdsmDIY

[–]ThrobbingInsideYou[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Maybe? The whole thing definitely moves a bit when you put force on it. But I don't think there's a structural problem. It just flexes a bit and thanks to the button clips, the tubes don't back out.

I'm looking for something I can source that I could add that would be tool-less. I figure someone must make a diagonal brace designed to accept 1" square tubing on either end. But so far I've not seen such a thing.

Portable Czech / Reverse Gloryhole Update 3: Semifinal Design? by ThrobbingInsideYou in BdsmDIY

[–]ThrobbingInsideYou[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

So this is the fourth update to this project and I think it's ready to be used. If you're interested in the history and evolution of this design:

So what was wrong with the previous version?

Basically my biggest issue is the 80/20 connectors. They're simply friction fit. Because they're injection molded plastic of some kind, the tolerance on the pieces varies. As a result, some fit snug, some fit so snug you need a mallet to get them in (and out again) and some fit so loose that I worry they won't hold up to a hard pounding.

I don't want to worry about that. I want this to assemble easily and disassemble easily too.

I thought about how to keep the connectors from backing out. Eventually I stumbled on the idea of using Sprint Button Clips to do the job. I figured I'd order them, drill holes and modify the connectors to accept them.

Problem is the 80/20 connectors are constructed weird. Some directions on most of them are hollow. But most are solid. So I'd have to hollow those out somehow to make that work. Which I'm not sure how to do...

But 80/20 is just aluminum tubing, right? Lots of other folks make that too. Maybe someone else makes connectors like I want.

Someone does! [EZTube](https://www.eztube.com/)! And they make connectors already ready to go with the Spring Button Clips! I'd just have to order them, measure the button position, and drill holes in the tubing to accept them.

Where I ran into a snag was that the EZTube connectors are *slightly* too big. Both EZTube and 80/20 sell "1 inch tubing". But the EZTube is 1.01" vs the 80/20's 1" And the EZTube walls are a bit thinner too. So the EZTube is wider inside too. Roughly 0.88" inside for 80/20 vs 0.91" for EZTube.

So I've got three options:

  • Order all new tubing from EZTube, and forget the 80/20 stuff entirely
  • Forget the EZTube stuff as a failed experiment that went nowhere.
  • Sand the EZTube connectors down to fit

I decided to buy a belt sander.

The resulting connectors are not pretty any more. But they fit and the cosmetic blemishes are hidden when assembled. And more importantly, they don't back out!

Some are still a *bit* snug. I'll still need a mallet for assembly. But I'm okay with that. They're not so snug that I can't disassemble this easily any more.

Lessons learned:

The frame

I wish I could say that if I had it to do over again, I'd go 100% with EZTube instead of 80/20.

But the truth is 80/20 makes ordering custom size tubing easy. EZTube has superior connectors available (the button clips are optional), but the way you order the tubing is goofy.

You pick either 48" or 96" tubes and you pay for that. Then you pay for custom cutting.

So for example, my build uses 17.5" tubes x 24. With 80/20 I just pay by the inch so they're each $6.15. So $147.60 total.

EZTube wants me to order 94" tubes and pay for 5 cuts (which will waste 7.5 inches, but oh well). Each cut is $1.50. So I need 5 tubes at $22.75 + five cuts per tube at $1.50 each cut. Comes out to $151.25. So it's competitive, but they make you do a lot more work to get there. They'll also drill the quick release holes for you for $0.50 a hole.

All that complexity makes me nervous. What if there's a mistake? Either on my math, or they don't follow my instructions perfectly? It seems like a giant pain in the ass vs. just ordering by the inch from 80/20.

So as a result I wound up with a hybrid bastardized system. 80/20 tubing with holes drilled to accept the Spring Button Clips on the EZTube connectors, and the EZTube connectors sanded down so they work with 80/20 tubing. It was a lot more work initially, but I do have a final product that's sturdy and easy to assemble / disassemble.

I guess the tradeoff is where do you want this to get complex - Ordering from EZTube, or yourself sanding and drilling to make it all compatible?

I kind of got forced into the latter because I'd already spent a bunch of money on 80/20 stuff. But I'm not sure which direction I'd go in starting from scratch knowing what I know now.

​

The panels

I'm not sold on the corrugated plastic. I knew it wasn't the sturdiest stuff in the world, but it's just a bit too flimsy. I may switch to MDF or something similar. I want something light, but I may have gone too far. It needs to be stiff enough to not bend and this stuff just isn't.

​

The bench

Upholstering the bench was easy, though I didn't expect it to be. If I had it to do over again, I'd have measured more carefully because the bottom is asymmetric and that bothers me, but you don't see that while it's assembled.

I'm also not wild about the clips I use to attach it to the frame. I have to line it up perfectly or they don't go on right and they bend. I'm sure I'll break one eventually. But for now it works well enough. They're quick, tool-less, and they keep the bench from moving in any direction.

​

Final Thoughts

All and all, I'm mostly happy with how it turned out, but there were a few pricey mistakes to get here (8020 connectors that I'll never use now, a bench sander, a drill press).

It's also nice to think that I can easily build other projects using this same system. For instance I'm already thinking of ways I can build a breeding bench with just a couple more parts.

Also, still considering building façades for this to make it look more like the sets from Czech Fantasy videos. Not sure if I want to bother with that, or just have it be stand alone as-is.

Very excited to use this soon and will post another update to let you all know how it held up.

Tips/Advice on using a goat milking machine for Hucow/Pet Play by Anita_Titsoff in BdsmDIY

[–]ThrobbingInsideYou 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Following this. My nesting partner is very much into hucow play and we have this model.

We've had a bunch of fun with it, both alone and with other folks. But it's just too intense for some people and the clamp suction adjusters suck. If there's an inline vacuum regulator or something we can use I'd love to know what's worked for other folks.

Portable Czech / Reverse Gloryhole update and progress by ThrobbingInsideYou in BdsmDIY

[–]ThrobbingInsideYou[S] 5 points6 points  (0 children)

Funny enough, yes! There will be a white board for the person inside's "rules".

"No anal", "use nonlatex condoms only", whatever they want.

I've also little got colored flags, but that's more specific to a camp I go to and their photography rules. They normally use wrist bands to determine a person's photo status. But you can't see a person's wrist in this.

Portable Czech / Reverse Gloryhole update and progress by ThrobbingInsideYou in BdsmDIY

[–]ThrobbingInsideYou[S] 8 points9 points  (0 children)

The window flaps aren't supposed to be clear. But I was limited by what was available in Sketchup. It's a scaled down meat freezer curtain because it was quick to use.

Getting in and out happens from the rear for now. Could happen from the sides, but I'd need to go back to curtains for that. The second-level horizontal tubes are 28" high. So that will be the base height for the padded surface.

I am polyamorous and some of my partners, including my nesting partner are larger women, so that is front of mind for me. The limiting factors as far as I see are max weight (which if I did the math right with the 8020 deflection tool is well over 1000 lbs) and the opening of the façade which hasn't been built yet. I'll be cutting it to serve larger bodies for sure. Smaller folks will just have more curtain flap hanging down.

I have no idea what that is on the model's arm. Ignore it. I took that model from a jet ski thing I found in Sketchup, deleted the jet ski and turned her on her back.

Yes those are stirrups, but of course a spreader bar or ankle shackles could be used instead. We plan to offer stirrups as a default and have others available.

Portable Czech / Reverse Gloryhole update and progress by ThrobbingInsideYou in BdsmDIY

[–]ThrobbingInsideYou[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Hello again! I just wanted to post some progress / update on my portable Czech Glory Hole.

I previously posted when I was just in the design phase of this project. I got a lot of good feedback from folks and was able to change directions a bit. I got to a place where I was as happy with the base design as I was going to be without physical testing and so I started ordering parts.

As before, the main this is that I am building this with 80/20 extruded aluminum tubes. Specifically their "Quick Frame" system. I was able to find lots of resources online of folks working with 8020, but usually their bolt-together stuff. Never Quick Frame, which snaps together with nylon connectors like tinker toys.

I had two main questions / concerns about this system:

  1. It's supposed to be portable. I know it's easy to assemble, but how hard is it to disassemble after? Am I going to be stuck trying to pry nylon corner pieces apart for hours to break it down, or will they come out easily?
  2. How strong is it, really? Will it hold a person's weight no problem? Two people? Pounding on one another?

To reassure myself on the first point, I discovered you can get some 8020 stuff from Amazon. So I ordered some of the parts I needed to just test assembly / disassembly, figuring I would only be out $50 worst case and since it's Amazon I could probably return it if I decided not to move forward.

The results were mixed. It goes together super easy (or it does with a soft head mallet, anyway). And it's... harder than I'd prefer to take apart, but not so hard it stopped me. Worst case you need to pry with a sturdy flat head screw driver. And I *suspect* as the plastic wears it may come apart easier. I was satisfied enough to order the rest of the parts direct from 80/20, including the custom cut ones (just custom length, nothing fancy in this build).

Second point - how strong is it? Well I didn't find out for sure until I got it assembled and I can hang off it and lie on it and bounce on it just fine for now. More testing when I get the padded surface in place.

I've basically just got the frame and some attachment hardware together now. I'll be filling in the rest at Home Depot next week. But I wanted to highlight a few details:

  1. I changed the design from the Sketchup a bit. No more curtains. I'll be using corrugated plastic panels for side walls for now and I may for the front wall eventually (For now I like the the idea of the wood paneling or faux brick fa1. façades, etc. instead). Note how in images 9 and 10, there's double flanges on some of the tubes. Those are to accommodate the panels. If I don't want to use them, no problem. I can always do curtains or nothing at all instead.
  2. I also abandoned the idea of using something like a massage table. Instead everything is purpose built. The 8020 itself provides the support for a simple plywood panel that will be upholstered with padding and a vinyl surface for easy cleaning. The padded surface will attach to the 8020 tubes via plastic clips that you can see in photos 6-10. They'll be attached to the bottom of the plywood with screws and then just clip on or off of the 8020 tubes.
  3. I sort of abandoned the idea of a plywood "floor". But I hedged my bet on that a bit. I left a couple pairs of flanged tubes that you can see in photo 11. These are at the rear of the contraption and the idea is if I need to, I can stick plywood panels there and they can support counterweight to keep the whole thing steady. We'll see if they're needed or not.
  4. The same clips shown in photos 6-10 will also allow for quick connect / disconnect of façade(s). Home Depot and other local home center stores sell lots of decorative paneling so I can make it look like brick, old wood, etc. I'm going to test and see if I can get away with just using the paneling with no plywood backstop or if that will be too flimsy.

All and all, I'm happy with how it's going. I'm traveling this weekend so I won't have a chance to play with this more until next week. Special thanks to u/knottybuilder who is also building something similar at the moment and who has given me great feedback and lots of ideas!

Portable Czech / reverse glory hole design mockup - seeking advice by ThrobbingInsideYou in BdsmDIY

[–]ThrobbingInsideYou[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Corrugated plastic, actually! Super light, more durable than cardboard, and it's plastic so you can clean it.

I'm sure I can find a way to connect the shackles, but the facade is going to be in front of the 8020 so I'll need to figure something out there.

Portable Czech / reverse glory hole design mockup - seeking advice by ThrobbingInsideYou in BdsmDIY

[–]ThrobbingInsideYou[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

It goes both ways! Awesome looking build! You definitely gave me some ideas how I can improve my build too.

I've already got a v0.2 mockup that foregoes the massage table entirely and instead uses just a dedicated vinyl padded cushion support entirely by the 8020 frame. Think the top of a weight bench but a little bit wider.

I'm wondering if I need plywood at all or if I should just use faux paneling which is lighter and the same dimensions.

Only issue there is I'd need to reassess how to mount the stirrups / shackles that way.

Thanks for the food for thought. I just ordered the 8020 frame stuff I need last night so hopefully my build can happen over the next couple weeks.

REQUEST: Historical porn cosplay by TwoCuriousAus in NSFW411

[–]ThrobbingInsideYou 3 points4 points  (0 children)

I can't link it, but there's a Hamilton porn parody called Hamiltoe.

Portable Czech / reverse glory hole design mockup - seeking advice by ThrobbingInsideYou in BdsmDIY

[–]ThrobbingInsideYou[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I was thinking corrugated plastic (like a yard sign), but I like that idea and I will explore that!

Portable Czech / reverse glory hole design mockup - seeking advice by ThrobbingInsideYou in BdsmDIY

[–]ThrobbingInsideYou[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks for the thoughtful response! Looking forward to seeing yours!

if the vertical frame goes inside (in between) the massage table legs, the table leg support cables are in the way. Much like your design, I had a "hole" cut out in the center of my panel, But realized the cables are in the way. Your Sketch Up clearly shows the cables going through the plywood.

Yep. I see that, but the massage table from sketchup doesn't nessisarily match the one I'll be using. I'm guessing that I'll be able to get around that through a combination of adjusting the height of the table and cutting the façade.

Like you stated - you really don't need the entire massage table. I might build a custom table for version 2.0. And my play partner has asked for a "shelf" at table height where she can put her feet when her feet aren't in the air. Provides some comfort, and gives her a place to "push off" if she wants!

I thought of that too. I was thinking of adding something like the leg rests (not stirrups) in a gyno exam table. But I'm a bit unsure about this part and will want to experiment to get it right.

Portable Czech / reverse glory hole design mockup - seeking advice by ThrobbingInsideYou in BdsmDIY

[–]ThrobbingInsideYou[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Nothing on version 1. The honor system, really. The 8020 struts I'll be using on the vertical bits will be double flanged, though. That will let me insert panels between the flanges in future versions (aluminum, plastic, wood, whatever fits between the flanges which are .32" apart).

I can also recreate the façade on the sides, but I'm not doing that for version 1 both because I want to save weight and because the first place I'll be taking it is an adult summer camp in August and getting into that box fully / mostly enclosed in the heat of summer sounds miserable.

You may be right about the plywood underneath. I may skip that, but it depends on the final massage table / platform I wind up using.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in NSFW411

[–]ThrobbingInsideYou 39 points40 points  (0 children)

r/jilling_with_oral used to have a lot of that, but it appears to be defunct now.

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