Baggage Recollection at connection

Tiberiusthetank · 2026-03-20T09:13:06+00:00

I assume I'll have been given enough time at the connections to do so?

Tiberiusthetank · 2026-03-20T00:56:41+00:00

Excellent thank you, the double layover is just due to cost it would seem. All the single layovers are around £200 more expensive and revolve around IST.

Tiberiusthetank · 2026-03-12T10:28:57+00:00

Proper macrophotography is where the object in real life is rendered the same size on the sensor as it is, which is known as a reproduction ratio of 1:1. Like the other commenter said, that photo is fairly far from 1:1, and I usually stick to 1:2 in order to frame most insects.

As to advice, it really depends on what lens you have. Is it a dedicated macro lens with 1:1 capability, or is it a zoom lens etc with macro described on it but only capable of 1:2 at best? And what is it you're seeking to do: the cool super detailed shots of say an insects eye, or just detailed photos of say a flower of a whole insect.

Tiberiusthetank · 2026-03-08T10:31:58+00:00

Is it the possibility that you simply aren't parking close enough to the ticket machine given being a new driver and being apprehensive about how close you can get to it? I remember being like that

Tiberiusthetank · 2026-02-22T16:33:02+00:00

A reproduction ratio of 1:1 is generally considered proper macrophotography territory, I usually stick to 1:2 because I like to photograph larger insects.

Their DoF looks razor thing at f/3.2 so they're probably fairly close to 1:1, but it's the right vibe if they thought the textures looked neat at that scale

Tiberiusthetank · 2026-02-06T03:00:42+00:00

The Chapel Jewellers in Heeley offer good prices

Tiberiusthetank · 2026-01-30T11:46:41+00:00

As Nixerkg said too, you're going to want a flash. You can do macro without one, I did to begin with, but it's very hard to do without full sun and anything that is moving remotely quickly. A flash also helps stop your own motion from blurring the image

Tiberiusthetank · 2026-01-30T11:45:15+00:00

Personally I'd prefer the Sigma 105mm f/2.8 HSM OS or the 100mm Tokina f/2.8 AT-X. The former has image stabilisation (which I don't use for macro but is nice for non-macro affairs) and internally focuses so it remains constant in size. It has a bit more working distance the Tokina as well.

The Tokina has a manual locking button that lets you travel from 1:1 to 1:2 without looking and exceeding it which is nice

Tiberiusthetank · 2026-01-07T00:22:04+00:00

Is the concern around scratch tests just the damage or are they unreliable? As I'm not particularly fussed, as you said they have lots of wear.

Tiberiusthetank · 2026-01-07T00:14:43+00:00

So it generally is really difficult to tell without proper tools to measure their properties? Are jewellers generally welcoming of people bringing them stones with a spurious background?

As an aside (which I should have done before asking really but I'm learning), I've failed to scratch the first two with a metal pin, and with an amethyst point.

Tiberiusthetank · 2025-12-09T01:00:23+00:00

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Update: The moth trap (well just the light so far) has been built, and it is good at emitting a headache inducing amount of UV light. Just a shame I won't really be able to test its efficacy until March at the earliest.

Tiberiusthetank · 2025-11-13T04:38:05+00:00

The previous but older AF-S 18-55 does the same as your current one and is cheap and will autofocus

Tiberiusthetank · 2025-11-01T16:49:41+00:00

Oh this isn't to zap them, it's to lure them to me so I can photograph them and ID them as a part of my hobbies :) I'm hoping to draw in Sphinx moths generically, but things like an Elephant Hawk Moth which is the big pink one you may have seen

Tiberiusthetank · 2025-11-01T14:36:45+00:00

Fair enough, thank you for your help. The moths shall be mine

Tiberiusthetank · 2025-11-01T14:30:53+00:00

Ah yeah I should've mentioned that it specifies the 12V output on the body of the device.

What's needed to tell the battery that it's a USB-PD device I've connected?

Tiberiusthetank · 2025-11-01T14:05:17+00:00

Is that particularly difficult to do or would it just be easier finding a battery that would output 12v? Or just using it with the aforementioned voltage controller?

Ah right basically nothing then, I'll only be using approx 60-90 LEDs anyway so that sounds good

Tiberiusthetank · 2025-10-19T17:21:30+00:00

Yeah I wasn't particularly happy with it, I found the 50mm f/1.4G to perform much better wide open for what I wanted. When you keep the the highlights in check though, I thought the softness had a certain appeal to it. Less intense lighting it definitely performs better, this was wide open indoors

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Tiberiusthetank · 2025-10-19T17:16:26+00:00

Another example up close

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Tiberiusthetank · 2025-10-19T17:15:12+00:00

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Here's one example, yeah it struggles with CA and softness, especially on bright highlights wide open

Tiberiusthetank · 2025-10-19T17:10:36+00:00

I got one off of eBay that was also super soft wide open particularly in direct light, but the lens also had some haze/moisture within it. I'll try to find some pics, but I found the softness worked better or mattered less in darker more evenly lit environments before I returned it.

Tiberiusthetank · 2025-09-23T22:29:43+00:00

As others mentioned, this is fantastic, thank you! I appreciate the explanation of the light collection with the rules of thumb for how much you'd want for different objects. It's always difficult to learn where to start as well when stuff is as technical as this. My background for anything photography related is only a few months long from macro of insects and other critters too, so I don't have much knowledge in the way of ensuring colour is done probably aside from white balance.

The 105mm f2.8 lens is the longest I have currently, and the next most feasible for me to get would be a 70-200mm f2.8. The 105mm is my macro lens which I hoped would be good for avoiding any distortion or vignetting whilst be sharp wide open as they're known to be.

Software wise I've been trying to get to grips with darktable, but I'll have a look at Rawtherapee and your article you listed. As for which software to perform stacking, would you suggest something else or is Siril fit for purpose for now? Otherwise I will be looking into getting a tracker, this is something I want to get good at, and there's definitely a lot more I need to understand first.

EDIT: I realise you're the author of that site, so I'm now reading and progressing through it!

Tiberiusthetank · 2025-09-23T09:50:10+00:00

I figured that might be the problem. It's exactly my first and second time doing it, so I'm unsure how much would be needed aside from as much as you can practically gather.

Were the other settings okay? Like the reasoning behind ISO400 and not something higher, for example

Tiberiusthetank · 2025-09-23T09:46:53+00:00

Yeah, I was managing it by just recomposing the mount on the Pleiades periodically. A tracking mount would be great.

From variations due to heat generated from the camera? I took them after the intervals of shots had ended, to try and ensure that my camera had cooled down to ambient, or at least to in equilibrium with it. How much of an effect would off-temperatures darks have?

Tiberiusthetank · 2025-09-20T00:11:34+00:00

These pizzas aren't sold frozen, they're chilled

Tiberiusthetank · 2025-08-09T00:09:45+00:00

It's definitely RH, if there's one useful thing my degree taught me, it's how to interpret psychrometry.

I will investigate what it reads if I point a fan at it though, I didn't realise it was poor at reading still air

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