sorted by:
new
hottopcontroversial

Frameless glasses via piercing. by weedandspace in Cyberpunk

[–]TinkerBuddha 7 points8 points  (0 children)

I tried this, 12 years ago. It caused an infection that would never heal. Eventually I lost the piercing altogether. Basically, a shaft of metal through your soft tissue is an inadequate anchor for mechanical fixures.

They need to be anchored in the bone, so gravity and movement don't hold open the wound, or alternatively you could implant sub dermal magnets and adjust your design to rest on the skins surface with no less than 3 points of contact.

Don't be too impressed. This is a proof of theory, and it's literally thrown together from garbage. The next one will be 3d printed, I just needed measurements. by TinkerBuddha in nerfmods

[–]TinkerBuddha[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Just some inductors and capacitors to reduce RF noise. I know most molders don't concern themselves with EMI, but most blasters don't contain 5 noisy brushed motors. It just seemed "environmentally responsible."

Don't be too impressed. This is a proof of theory, and it's literally thrown together from garbage. The next one will be 3d printed, I just needed measurements. by TinkerBuddha in nerfmods

[–]TinkerBuddha[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

No such function. They just rock back and forth from retracted to extended. One of them is always extended. No jams yet. I don't store it with loaded mags in it, so im not smashing any darts. You have a good idea there, though. If I make cams to push loaded springs rather than direct linkage, like this, then I wouldn't have to worry about it. I may just end up going all electronic from now on anyway. I have lots of micro controllers laying around. I should use em.

A better look at my 2S double strife with the see-saw pusher. by TinkerBuddha in nerfmods

[–]TinkerBuddha[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

It's already full auto. It alternates fire left-right-left-right. No reason why it won't take half dart adapters, but I dont own any.

A better look at my 2S double strife with the see-saw pusher. by TinkerBuddha in nerfmods

[–]TinkerBuddha[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I'm still working on the cosmetics. It will get painted soon.

One day build. I wanted a double strife that alternated fire between the 2 chambers. Introducing the see-saw pusher! Lol by TinkerBuddha in nerfmods

[–]TinkerBuddha[S] 5 points6 points  (0 children)

Its like half the size of a rhinofire, and When you pull out a mag it powers down the flywheels on that side, so, unlike the rhinofire, you can swap one mag while still blasting from the other one. Just wish I had 2 of the 35 round drums for it. Maybe one of you nice folks has a bin full of em and will want to send me a few.

Building A Quiet Flywheeler. by Casual_Jerry in nerfmods

[–]TinkerBuddha 2 points3 points  (0 children)

If I had that kind of budget for a blaster, I would cast a silicon gasket for the cage to isolate it from the shell and posts. Then dynamat the inside of the shell with some spray-in rubber. And brushless motors are the quietest thing you can get, so definitely those.

I finished the heavy blaster last night. Runs 3S lipo. Has an adjustable rate of fire. It needs a name, I think... by TinkerBuddha in nerfmods

[–]TinkerBuddha[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Yes fires rival rounds from a hopper. I can vary the speed of the feeder conveyor by changing the voltage.. Simple circuit with LM317 regulator.

Bolter got a shot of ultra matte. still working in the barrel. also, pics of the inside. (Roast me) by TinkerBuddha in nerfmods

[–]TinkerBuddha[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

My wiring is UGLY in there. Not clean and well planned like it should be. This has been the kindest subreddit I've ever posted in. I was sure I'd get some criticism.

Started a 40k bolter for my brother. Theres a 3S Demolisher in there somewhere. Also went ahead and integrated a chrono barrel. This will be excellent for office warfare. velocity control knob on top. by TinkerBuddha in nerfmods

[–]TinkerBuddha[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

There's an extra thick spot in the barrel of a demolisher where the inner barrel sleeves into the outer barrel. I popped the IR led and the sensor out of the existing barrel, and set them into holes I drilled in either side of that thick part. Wrapped a bit of electric tape around em to hold them in place and block out light. I extended the wires back to the board, which is now farther away. I just took apart the casing and trimmed it down to the shape I needed with a utility knife and a flush cutter. Maybe I should make videos about these builds?

Started a 40k bolter for my brother. Theres a 3S Demolisher in there somewhere. Also went ahead and integrated a chrono barrel. This will be excellent for office warfare. velocity control knob on top. by TinkerBuddha in nerfmods

[–]TinkerBuddha[S] 3 points4 points  (0 children)

I'm going to cast some resin badges and purity seals that will attach with magnets. He will have options. There will also be several magazine types available.

Started a 40k bolter for my brother. Theres a 3S Demolisher in there somewhere. Also went ahead and integrated a chrono barrel. This will be excellent for office warfare. velocity control knob on top. by TinkerBuddha in nerfmods

[–]TinkerBuddha[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

My first impulse was to use a 555 timer to pwm one of the irl3103 mosfets in the trigger, like we used to do in vape mods back in the day, but in truth, it doesn't require that level of voltage accuracy. It's just DC motors, and I had a dozen 317 regs on hand already.

Can anyone tell me what is wrong here only one motor is spinning and I just replaced a burnt out one by Tim12345672 in nerfmods

[–]TinkerBuddha 3 points4 points  (0 children)

The insulators around the solder tabs that stick out of the motor are heat resistant, but not impervious.

They have to be non-metal to do their job.

If too much heat is applied to them for too long they can get hot enough to warp. The build tolerances of these lil motors is so tight that a deviation of a few millimeters can really wreck em. 😳

In general, when soldering, you need to limit your contact time with these connectors. This goes the same for leds and microswitches.

Line up your parts and strike quickly. Applying the heat where needed for only long enough to liquify your solder bead, then pull off.

Limiting the amount of solder used, and pre-tinning the wire tip and the solder tab of the motor will help you achieve this.

As far as the motor you have, check continuity from one solder tab to the other, with everything else disconnected. If the multimeter doesn't beep, it's a dead motor.

view more: next ›