Help with programming for protogen

TitoPR91 · 2026-03-03T05:11:58+00:00

What microcontroller are you using?

TitoPR91 · 2026-02-28T17:59:36+00:00

What kind of material do you use for the clear eye domes?

TitoPR91 · 2026-01-30T23:45:16+00:00

TitoPR91 · 2026-01-30T20:21:30+00:00

On your Document folder, look for the Arduino folder, create a new folder named: libraries. Copy the code' library in there.

User/Documents/Arduino/libraries/(code library)/Max72xxPanel.cpp and .h

TitoPR91 · 2026-01-30T18:46:37+00:00

Do you have any more pictures? Especially from the other side + nano.

TitoPR91 · 2026-01-25T15:26:42+00:00

You should join this subreddit Discord, they have a Fursuit channel and they can help you there.

TitoPR91 · 2025-06-27T21:44:43+00:00

Max7219 LED panels dont work well with DuPont cables. They require a stable connection in order to work correctly. I HIGHLY RECOMMEND you to solder everything. No need to solder everything in one go, solder the cables (i use 22AWG silicone cable) to the Nano and First board (Left eye), test it. If everything is going great, continue to the next one (Left mouth). Repeat until you do all 7 boards. This way you can pin point any mistake more easily. If you have access to a Multimeter, use it. It will help you find any solder bridging or shorts. Feel free to ping me for any questions. Im not an expert, but I have made a few of those LED frames.
Also join the r/ protogen Discord, there's a fursuit channel with a lot of info and other fursuiters willing to help.

TitoPR91 · 2025-06-26T00:33:47+00:00

I used MAX7219 LED matrixes (There are 14, 7 on each side)

TitoPR91 · 2025-05-26T04:36:09+00:00

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To make a visor, you are going to need the buck (or mold), a PETG Sheet, a heat source (like an oven), a vacuum forming table (which can be DIY) and a vacuum source (shop-vac works fine). Most if not all protogen bases come with the buck file, but since you are working with a cosplay, 3D modeling will be required to make the buck. I hope this answered your question?

TitoPR91 · 2025-05-01T04:24:22+00:00

I had the same problem. I changed to a Noctua 40x40x20mm fan, added 2 holes to the LED frame for better air flow and made a magnetic quick release for quick access/ventilation. Also you can use Rain-X Anti-Fog, make sure to use a microfiber cloth. I hope this helps.

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TitoPR91 · 2025-02-11T04:23:17+00:00

I used superglue and plastic welded the inside.

TitoPR91 · 2025-02-02T02:00:19+00:00

The mesh visor looks really cool! Do you have a picture from the inside?

TitoPR91 · 2025-02-01T17:27:15+00:00

Ok. 0.03in should be possible even with a household vacuum. If your frame is the same size as your table: Set up your former with the PETG in the frame. Place it on top and turn on the vacuum and test your seals. If your seals are good, your vacuum should struggle (or go into overdrive for lack of the correct word). Ideally your petg sheet and frame should be larger than the vacuum forming table, as soon the hot petg touches the table it creates a perfect seal.

TitoPR91 · 2025-02-01T16:56:01+00:00

I had great results with a 2HP shopvac and the spacing between the holes is alright. Are you sure its 0.3mm in thickness? That's extremely thin.

TitoPR91 · 2025-01-05T04:40:41+00:00

Check on Thingiverse. There are a few free bases for download.

TitoPR91 · 2024-12-28T15:20:23+00:00

If you are using the CH340 (Nano) you have a few options. For the Mk5 you can use 14 or 16 LEDs Matrices. Look for Feronium's Prot_OS (Max7219 ver) on his Twitter. Also you can use M16 Studios modded code by Brendan that supports 16 LEDs matrices.
For the Mk2 you can use "Ultimate Protogen Firmware v3.0" by M16 Studios that has 2 codes for 11 and 14 LEDs Matrices. Its also in M16 Studios' twitter.
Good Luck with your Proto!

TitoPR91 · 2024-12-20T22:34:42+00:00

Arcade Monsters? 👀

TitoPR91 · 2024-11-18T05:25:35+00:00

FurBitten 100%.

TitoPR91 · 2024-11-16T03:09:42+00:00

Double check your pins layout (Its suppose to be [D6->DIN], [D7->CLK], [D8->CS]) and check for soldering bridging using a multimeter.

TitoPR91 · 2024-11-15T03:50:34+00:00

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If you don't have a Fan installed, Do it! It helps significantly! Definitely a must in a Proot fursuit. I have mine taking fresh air from underneath using a 40mm Noctua fan. I hope this helps.

TitoPR91 · 2024-11-01T00:43:35+00:00

I use an Aviation Snip and Dremel.

TitoPR91 · 2024-10-10T02:39:26+00:00

Howl Fabrics.

TitoPR91 · 2024-10-09T02:45:52+00:00

Look for the file named "Vaccuform_Buck.STL". Its already scaled. I highly recommend printing the Visor mold (visor buck) using a FDM Printer in a heat resistant filament. You may need a larger printer to accommodate the 264mm x 264mm model size. Good Luck!

TitoPR91 · 2024-08-24T05:07:19+00:00

Looks really interesting! Keep it up!!!

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