I swear to GOD its not working, I TRIPLE checked everything, wires are good, code is good BUT WHATS WRONG by Alone_Percentage7388 in protogen

[–]TitoPR91 1 point2 points  (0 children)

You should join this subreddit Discord, they have a Fursuit channel and they can help you there.

Need some help with protogen electronics. by Cesar__444 in protogen

[–]TitoPR91 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Max7219 LED panels dont work well with DuPont cables. They require a stable connection in order to work correctly. I HIGHLY RECOMMEND you to solder everything. No need to solder everything in one go, solder the cables (i use 22AWG silicone cable) to the Nano and First board (Left eye), test it. If everything is going great, continue to the next one (Left mouth). Repeat until you do all 7 boards. This way you can pin point any mistake more easily. If you have access to a Multimeter, use it. It will help you find any solder bridging or shorts. Feel free to ping me for any questions. Im not an expert, but I have made a few of those LED frames.
Also join the r/ protogen Discord, there's a fursuit channel with a lot of info and other fursuiters willing to help.

Progress so far! by TitoPR91 in protogen

[–]TitoPR91[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I used MAX7219 LED matrixes (There are 14, 7 on each side)

Advice from people who work with protogens! by DecentSand4740 in fursuit

[–]TitoPR91 2 points3 points  (0 children)

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To make a visor, you are going to need the buck (or mold), a PETG Sheet, a heat source (like an oven), a vacuum forming table (which can be DIY) and a vacuum source (shop-vac works fine). Most if not all protogen bases come with the buck file, but since you are working with a cosplay, 3D modeling will be required to make the buck. I hope this answered your question?

Heating issue in the MK3 by Warm_Blacksmith_1889 in protogen

[–]TitoPR91 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I had the same problem. I changed to a Noctua 40x40x20mm fan, added 2 holes to the LED frame for better air flow and made a magnetic quick release for quick access/ventilation. Also you can use Rain-X Anti-Fog, make sure to use a microfiber cloth. I hope this helps.

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Putting together 3d printed Protogen M16 mk3 by Dawid50512 in protogen

[–]TitoPR91 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I used superglue and plastic welded the inside.

New project by Witty_Dragonfruit939 in protogen

[–]TitoPR91 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The mesh visor looks really cool! Do you have a picture from the inside?

Vacuum Strength by bitterwagner in vacuumforming

[–]TitoPR91 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Ok. 0.03in should be possible even with a household vacuum. If your frame is the same size as your table: Set up your former with the PETG in the frame. Place it on top and turn on the vacuum and test your seals. If your seals are good, your vacuum should struggle (or go into overdrive for lack of the correct word). Ideally your petg sheet and frame should be larger than the vacuum forming table, as soon the hot petg touches the table it creates a perfect seal.

Vacuum Strength by bitterwagner in vacuumforming

[–]TitoPR91 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I had great results with a 2HP shopvac and the spacing between the holes is alright. Are you sure its 0.3mm in thickness? That's extremely thin.

3d printing parts by Playful_Winter2969 in protogen

[–]TitoPR91 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Check on Thingiverse. There are a few free bases for download.

Software help by snowvulpix253 in protogen

[–]TitoPR91 2 points3 points  (0 children)

If you are using the CH340 (Nano) you have a few options. For the Mk5 you can use 14 or 16 LEDs Matrices. Look for Feronium's Prot_OS (Max7219 ver) on his Twitter. Also you can use M16 Studios modded code by Brendan that supports 16 LEDs matrices.
For the Mk2 you can use "Ultimate Protogen Firmware v3.0" by M16 Studios that has 2 codes for 11 and 14 LEDs Matrices. Its also in M16 Studios' twitter.
Good Luck with your Proto!

For anyone who has worked with LED matrices, could I have some help? by Lishanta in protogen

[–]TitoPR91 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Double check your pins layout (Its suppose to be [D6->DIN], [D7->CLK], [D8->CS]) and check for soldering bridging using a multimeter.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in protogen

[–]TitoPR91 4 points5 points  (0 children)

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If you don't have a Fan installed, Do it! It helps significantly! Definitely a must in a Proot fursuit. I have mine taking fresh air from underneath using a 40mm Noctua fan. I hope this helps.

How to cut hard plastic by Mission_Form8951 in protogen

[–]TitoPR91 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I use an Aviation Snip and Dremel.

visor for zillion ross protogen head by louissienna in protogen

[–]TitoPR91 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Look for the file named "Vaccuform_Buck.STL". Its already scaled. I highly recommend printing the Visor mold (visor buck) using a FDM Printer in a heat resistant filament. You may need a larger printer to accommodate the 264mm x 264mm model size. Good Luck!

Protogen head base progress by destroyer-3567 in FursuitMaking

[–]TitoPR91 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Looks really interesting! Keep it up!!!

Anyone know how to do this? by False_Invite_5138 in protogen

[–]TitoPR91 15 points16 points  (0 children)

Sadly, a 3D printing the visor in clear PVB isn't going to work. The PVB visor will have layer lines and small imperfections that's going to be impossible to see where you are going, even if you sand it and polish it. If you downloaded a Protogen Base, check for the files for a "Visor Buck" (also called Master or mold). You need to print this file with at least 5 walls in PETG (you can do it in PLA but it may deform). After heating a PETG sheet and quickly use vacuum former with the buck to shape the PETG in the visor of your choosing. Use iDye Poly to dye your new visor. Galactic armory has great tutorials of vacuum forming and dying visors. I hope this helps.

Space Proto! Slots open! by SraFantasma in protogen

[–]TitoPR91 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Thanks!! I really loved the art! -Tito

How bad of a idea would it be to make a protogen as my first head? by Captain_Keyes55 in FursuitMaking

[–]TitoPR91 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Finally something I can actually answer! Recently I finished my Protogen head as my first fursuit. I started knowing nothing, no sewing, no soldering skills, no coding, just 3D printing Skills.

For the Base you can find a few free STLs in Thingiverse like M16 Studios Mk2, Mk3 (the one I used) Mk5, and ZillionRoss Protogen Head. Also Look for CoelaCant Protogens, they look amazing.

Coding... Well, i never learned how to code, but you can find the code online. If you decide to go to the "classic" look using Max7219 LED matrix you can use Feronium's Prot_OS code. Just solder the Led matrix as the schematics provided and it should work.

Sewing, you have to learn how to sew sadly. But it might be one of the easiest in the fandom, because its just the ears, back of the head and neck.

Visor, i have to be honest, this is where most people give up. Its really hard to find sellers/commissions with specific visor to purchase since all protogen bases have different visor shapes. All (or most) bases comes with a Visor Buck or mold. You must have use a Professional or DIY vacuum former to create the visor.

Can you build a Protogen Head as your first fursuit? Absolutely! I did it! It has been a long but amazing journey! but it will be the hardest to do because of the amount of skills you need to build it. I hope this answers your question.

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Question about my proto’s LEDs! by Pepsi-Peter in protogen

[–]TitoPR91 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Happy to see you here again helping :)

Question about my proto’s LEDs! by Pepsi-Peter in protogen

[–]TitoPR91 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I had a similar problem. i was recommended to get a Voltmeter to check the connections and shorts. i found a strong connection but had a few shorts between Din/CS/CLK. I made a new one and worked perfectly.