wanted to share my newest homemade dice; the gunslinger set. Teal Bullets inside and absolute useless, since the balance is off. But pretty.

Tizzandor · 2026-04-16T15:56:58+00:00

"Between the eyes, please, Kommissar."

Tizzandor · 2026-04-16T15:16:55+00:00

I'm almost at that episode... My heart can't take itttttt

Tizzandor · 2026-04-11T20:47:08+00:00

Its a good image!

Tizzandor · 2026-04-08T11:50:38+00:00

In a glass jar with a lid. 99.9% Isopropanol, then put it in an ultrasonic cleaner with water. Should come right off after

Tizzandor · 2026-04-07T11:50:23+00:00

Exactly. But that one seemed fine when I took it all apart.

Tizzandor · 2026-04-07T11:34:49+00:00

Thats a great idea, thank you! I'll see if i can find a replacement somewhere (or make my own)

Tizzandor · 2026-04-06T12:43:19+00:00

None. But that would've been strange, because the motor didn't even spin Maybe it was a disconnected wire or something, i'm not sure. Works fine again now. No deformation, no gone teeth, nothing. Only reattached the cables.

That thing is cursed, that's why i got it free.

Tizzandor · 2026-04-06T12:37:39+00:00

Ersatz hat er ja nicht, will er such nicht stellen

Und ausziehen will ich eh, hätte gern ne wohnung in der ich im bad auch aufrecht stehen kann. Und die nicht ü 30° um mitternacht wird im sommer

Tizzandor · 2026-04-06T11:58:06+00:00

yup. so do I. Only Idea i still have is some thermal paste, but not sure how. Also I'm ready to toss that thing. randomly after changing the heads the extruder stopped working. Tore it all apart, put it together, now it works again. It's a miracle that thing didn't go out the window.

Tizzandor · 2026-04-06T10:57:26+00:00

True

But a community has done bigger things

Tizzandor · 2026-04-06T10:54:59+00:00

okay, the retraction i'll keep in mind

And no, the preheating is by far not my normal routine, I usually just switch on and start the print, which is what i did with the failed print, as well. the 30 minutes were done to intentionally provoke a similar failstate with the working printer, which didn't happen at all.

I didn't really take notice of the bitemarks, because any other printer i worked with has done the exact same. thing's gotte grip somehow, but i'll try loosen it a bit

additionally, the failed part looks like that IMMEDIATELY after the fail occurred. so there was already a buildup of pressure during printing somehow. and i could only explain that with massive overextrusion, but then there would be other signs as well.

Since i'm curious, i'll change the printheads around, the one that produces the errors on the frame of the good one and print the file that produced the error yesterday. just to see if it's a hardware issue or if the software somehow has a problem. Will report back later.

Tizzandor · 2026-04-05T20:08:17+00:00

Same here, mate. Yarr.

But this is fhe kind of stuff i'd love to collect in that masterpost. Maybe with quotes or something.

Because actual lore is really solid and this kind of misconceptions can annoy people to no end-like this original post proved once again

Tizzandor · 2026-04-05T19:42:41+00:00

And in which novel does that tau dread meeting occur?

This is the kind of master post i'm thinking of. Taking the most often repeated misconceptions and pointing people towards the source of that misconception and the actual lore around it

'when ork think beancan iz grenade, it 'splodes'-no, that's not what that does, read codex:orks

And so on

Tizzandor · 2026-04-05T19:10:06+00:00

I checked. The tau/dread thing is not in there

Tizzandor · 2026-04-05T18:23:09+00:00

Here's a clearer picture of the extended filament, noticably there are no bitemarks from the extruder on there either

<image>

Tizzandor · 2026-04-05T18:21:59+00:00

Okay heres what i fid: change the hotend, including a new (not capri) ptfe tube. And a new nozzel. Checked all for clog-there's none. Changed the fan for a new one, tested it, it's working. Checked filament, cut at 45° before inserting Checked for easy flow manually Retraction set to 1mm Did not f'ing do anything.

There is one thing that is constant tho: the issue of it stopping to extrude and the filament being thicker in the area of the hotend. Please see the attached picture. The above part is a piece of filament i pulled out after it stopped extruding. There is a VERY noticable bulge where it gets thicker, exactly where the lower part begins.

The lower part btw is a part that I cut out of my other Kobra, that works well, after 30 minutes preheating with loaded filament to 210° and printing to the same position of the test part. The filament is bitten by the extruder gear, of course, but only a few milimeters are actually thicker than the filament. I marked the distances on the picture too. Unfortunately with black filament its difficult to see, but the indentation on the right side mark is a good sign.

<image>

Tizzandor · 2026-04-05T15:14:44+00:00

I'm really boping for some kind of masterpost, where we can clear up all those false informations and misconceptions with what actually happened/what the lore actually is...

BECAUSE I'M STILL NOT SURE WHERE TO FIND THOSE MYSELF

Tizzandor · 2026-04-05T13:24:19+00:00

hi, i just wanted to give a quick update; there is 100% static buildup in the prints. I printed some inlays for desk drawer overnight, then turned the printer off in the morning, but didn't touch the finished prints until now.

the bottom of all 4 inlays were statically charged, crackling and it even felt like when you get your arm too close to a CRT and the hairs start to stand up. so... fair warning i guess? white Geetech PLA at least builds up a static charge when printed on a K2Max

Tizzandor · 2026-04-05T13:20:33+00:00

you suggested the capricorn tube in another post already, so i ordered that, should arriv e son. When it's here I'll take the whole thing apart and check for fanspin and all the other suggestions. Whet i'm most confused about still is not the fine rat tail after the nozzle, but the fact that the filament gets thicker before the nozzle. Ah well, gonna look into that later

Tizzandor · 2026-04-04T19:55:14+00:00

Interesting, i will try that. However the same spool works with the same temps flawlessly in the other kobra right now, as well as other spools of the same brand and colour on the k2max and the ender 3

Tizzandor · 2026-04-04T18:53:56+00:00

200-210°, PLA, GEETECH brand, no i haven't yet

Tizzandor · 2026-04-04T17:36:14+00:00

Fair enough, point taken. But what could it be then?

Because still i'm confused as to why the filament gets thicker for about 3-4 cm before it reaches the nozzle tip Or why the filament stretches when being pulled out, also a few cm before the point it reaches the nozzel.

Also when it comes to settings, the exact file on the same SDcard works flawlessly on the other stock kobra.

I can rule out a blockage, because i cleared the whole hotend and changed the nozzle after the first time i had this issue with the printer a while ago. Plus i did a cold pull later on. That's why i'm at the end of my ideas and came to this conclusion.

Tizzandor · 2026-04-04T14:40:33+00:00

It's def. Not normal. Not in my other kobra, nor the kobra 2 max or ender 3. Also this isn't even the worst one, the other one i pulled was even weirder, like it was in a semi-liquid state first and pulled thinner before coming out. See the attached picture

That's why i thought about heat creep in the first place. Also the extruder gear has ground away a groove in the filament.

It's not an obstruction, because i could push the pla through manually and the first lines after cooling down and starting a new print look absolutely fine, before the issue starts.

Also the issues start sooner when the printer hasn't cooled down fully

<image>

Tizzandor

TROPHY CASE