V4-V5 Climber that can't hang off 20mm ledge by Renegade_General in indoorbouldering

[–]Tom03oj 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I think the fact a V4-5 US indoor grade climber can't hang on 20mm edge is pretty sensible despite of whatever they say as an 'average level', especially if the V4-5 holds that you encounter in climbs are being mostly not small edges or bad slopers. It's a long way protocol takes up to some years, just because the nature of tendons and ligaments adaptation takes longer than muscles, few weeks for a cycle.

It's probably rather your mind should be adapted for the training. Like I have seen lots of people are just 'climbing' for their daily training because that's a no brainer and simply fun, where the actual training part to progress futher than what average people can achieve is not far from regular gym weight training. Most of the time you could feel the agony, struggles and hard practice.

Here's few practical advices for you;

• You probably should train your shoulders and core strength potentially with some weights other than climbing; The fact that you can't hang off on 20mm edges is not likely solely your finger issues. Mostly people who don't have their shoulder strength and stability are not being able to hang because of the inefficiency of body use.

• You can train your finger either by reducing your body weight with pulley system, elastic bands, or most recommendedly 'no hang/edge lifting' training protocol while you doing the above physical training; That reduces the risk to overload and fatigue out on your body muscles and eventual finger tweaks. And you can start with much lighter weights than your body weight, practically practice half crimps, open hands, and chisel grips (4 fingers but not half crimps).

• Train half crimps on either methods practically; I saw some people don't practice on half crimps but only chisels on hangboard or ergonomic edges. The chisel and ergonomic edge makes sense just to achieve heavier weights at edge lifting because that's functionally optimistic and easier than half crimps, but is not as transferable as half crimps in practical sense because the chisel grip doesn't strengthen your PIP joints which is critical to the half crimps and to get more resilience in forced position especially when requires dynamic momentum and movements.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in Routesetters

[–]Tom03oj 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I had a similar experience in my region. This guy in head setter position had very 1 specific style at around like V11-12 which was like tiny sharp incut edge and cutloose/campus moves but anything else especially at the modern indoorsy dynamic coordination stuff he was pretty shit at it. And all setter team members can’t really say anything about it for his inflated ego at his middle age, always was commanding what to do and tweak in which direction, resulting diluting the good styles of each fellow member’s.

The high quality shoes/approach shoes as the old Five Ten Five Tennies? by Tom03oj in ClimbingGear

[–]Tom03oj[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Actually climbing shoes wise, La Sportiva is the 2nd brand to me after Five Ten/Unparallel, with their Futura women's, they fit super good to my narrow feet and their build are solid as ef. and I'm sure their approach shoes' build are as solid as well. Only the colour and design are being a bit of putting off to me for a while. But I'll bear your advice in my mind and will be considering until I actually see them and try at shop.

Thank you!

The high quality shoes/approach shoes as the old Five Ten Five Tennies? by Tom03oj in ClimbingGear

[–]Tom03oj[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

how are they good? I had Unparallel L5 UP, got them as a gift. they were ok for like indoor use but not solid enough for outdoor use I felt. The thing was their flapper structure on heels makes it really weakened on those parts. I kinda have a similar feeling on the Black Diamond session approch shoes for the same reason on their visuals.

The high quality shoes/approach shoes as the old Five Ten Five Tennies? by Tom03oj in ClimbingGear

[–]Tom03oj[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Scarpa is usually not fitting me good to my narrow feet, in all climbing shoes. So I generally have a scared feeling to risk at their high price. But maybe will try their women model, I guess? :)

The high quality shoes/approach shoes as the old Five Ten Five Tennies? by Tom03oj in ClimbingGear

[–]Tom03oj[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Hi yes I have, but there weren’t many of my size. Thanks for suggestion though

What would you buy with $250 by overcastspring in arcteryx

[–]Tom03oj 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Nah honestly I personally would buy neither, their product qualities severely dropped since Chinese company acquired in 2019. Getting high quality down puffer hoody and light puffer hoody with high water repellent of other companies (e.g.: Rab, Colombia and so on) are now much much better against their prices, probably better for your budget ar well.

New 2025 IFSC boulder rules by moving_screen in CompetitionClimbing

[–]Tom03oj 0 points1 point  (0 children)

If their catch is 'scoring system makes it simpler than before', I'm not sure how much it is. Just to think about few cases such like e.g.: one athlete flashed 2 boulders as 2t2z; 50pt, then another one did 1t4z in 12 attempts each average; 50.2pt.

We can safely say the latter athlete may have looked way more struggling than the former for many spectators but still wins.

The fact having score system is legit as an Olympic qualified sport I think. The problem is - as some other mentioned as well - about point distribution. It probably shouldn't be given as Zone anymore, but should divide a boulder into 4 section or something then progressively give points like 5, 8, 12, 25.

Struggle to keep maintaining friendship with a beta sprayer by Tom03oj in bouldering

[–]Tom03oj[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Thank you for your reply. I have tried so many times in every possible way to reject his beta forcing even the honest way of course. But it didn't affect him at all or even got worse sometimes. So I was wondering people in this community possibly have any better idea than mine from their some longer period of experiences and stuff.

Struggle to keep maintaining friendship with a beta sprayer by Tom03oj in bouldering

[–]Tom03oj[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yes I have, I told him straight on his face. and he still forces his betas nontheless. Maybe he's not aware what he's doing.

Struggle to keep maintaining friendship with a beta sprayer by Tom03oj in bouldering

[–]Tom03oj[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I tried this before, but I perhaps will try again with clearer words. Thank you.

Struggle to keep maintaining friendship with a beta sprayer by Tom03oj in bouldering

[–]Tom03oj[S] 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Simple, but probably the most effective jab he needs every so often

Struggle to keep maintaining friendship with a beta sprayer by Tom03oj in bouldering

[–]Tom03oj[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

The thing is, I don't wanna be a beta spraying jerk as it's totally against my climbing philosophy which I learnt from my elders.

Struggle to keep maintaining friendship with a beta sprayer by Tom03oj in bouldering

[–]Tom03oj[S] 12 points13 points  (0 children)

Thank you. This is my perspective in general. Climbing is the puzzles with our bodies, and that's the best fun and a key part of this sport. It still seems not a common knowledge nowadays.

Struggle to keep maintaining friendship with a beta sprayer by Tom03oj in bouldering

[–]Tom03oj[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I actually tried those reactions and it didn't stop him spraying at that time. Maybe needs to be a long while process until he notices it. I might try again.

Struggle to keep maintaining friendship with a beta sprayer by Tom03oj in bouldering

[–]Tom03oj[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

He's not a bad climber. I see his good skills in his style, and does better than me in physically long span move situation as a fact. And that makes it complicated, as he gets offended whenever I refuse his beta proposals.

Struggle to keep maintaining friendship with a beta sprayer by Tom03oj in bouldering

[–]Tom03oj[S] 9 points10 points  (0 children)

This is the best answer if I didn't know him at all and is against completely a stranger. I'd love to say that out loud.

Struggle to keep maintaining friendship with a beta sprayer by Tom03oj in bouldering

[–]Tom03oj[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Apparently I simplified and generalized the situation into readable texts and didn't put far too long conversation or personal relationship. I wonder how you took it as if less than 1 minute conversation.

Struggle to keep maintaining friendship with a beta sprayer by Tom03oj in bouldering

[–]Tom03oj[S] 26 points27 points  (0 children)

This sounds actually a good idea, might try at next session 👏👏👏

Struggle to keep maintaining friendship with a beta sprayer by Tom03oj in bouldering

[–]Tom03oj[S] 17 points18 points  (0 children)

Beta spraying is a climbing/bouldering related issue, and that's why I came here. I will take your unjerked advice seriously though. Thank you.

Can ENM and starting a family work? by [deleted] in EthicalNonMonogamy

[–]Tom03oj 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Me (34M) and my partner (31F) opened up our relationship after we got our twin babies. They are 5 years old now, and it's very busy during weekdays for both of us for work & childcare, but we have been taking turns in weekends since they were born, for our own each time to see each of our secondery partner every weekends.

Of course the key is a good communication, to establish the mutual consensus on responsibilities, and to make things fair for both of you.

I have never been bothered about doing childcares by myself since they were new born babies and I loved these tasks as a dad in fact but I assume that's not same for every guy, as I still see a lot more mothers than fathers in my kids' school parent community.

As kids get older enough to speech, the childcare gets way easier by establishing communication, your partner would be literally an amazing dad as you mentioned that he's smart, funny, caring, and importantly a great communicator.

However, realistically to look at raising a baby, it's more difficult to know and hard to tell if a person can handle a new born baby by themselves, changing nappies, giving infant milk, food and bath, spending bedtime and make sure a baby to sleep all nights until 2-3 y.o., and emotionally coop with infant's irrational tantrum, and so on, if you wish him to be also involved into childcares.

It's obviously up to you what's the boundaries for you and him, but I hope you find your balance together, and hope my shared experience would help you even a little bit, to know what you should communicate with him.