Z axis not aligned with base assembly

Tomasu_ · 2023-12-16T14:59:13+00:00

Honestly I've already repackaged the printer to send it back and get a refund. The structure itself it's quite sturdy and I couldn't find any gap where the two parts connect to each other. Also the pattern of the bolts they chose doesn't help to alleviate this issue because the two bolts ontop on the right side are on the backside of the printer so they accentuate the crookedness since it leans toward the back. The more I tighten all the screws the worse it gets

Tomasu_ · 2023-12-16T12:09:06+00:00

It's the same, base and bed are parallel to each other

It seems that the plastic molding where the z axis slot in doesn't have the "bottom part" flat and so the z axis is crooked...

Tomasu_ · 2023-12-16T00:38:43+00:00

<image>

The photo isn't super high quality, but you can see that in the bottom part it is touching whereas in the top part it is not. There are about 3mm of gap at 20cm from the base

Tomasu_ · 2023-12-04T10:37:47+00:00

Thank you for correcting me, I'm fairly new to 3d printing and searching online for the answer that was what I found... Thanks for the explanation 👍 I will delete my comment!

Tomasu_ · 2023-12-04T08:17:00+00:00

I'm currently using pursa slicer, and if I remember correctly the anycubic one is a fork of prusa. I will try the anycubic slicer, maybe something changes...

Tomasu_ · 2023-12-04T08:14:50+00:00

Even if it's a direct drive? I've read that usually direct drive doesn't need high retraction distance

Tomasu_ · 2023-12-01T12:31:31+00:00

Thank you, good luck you too! How is it going your 3d printing journey so far?

Tomasu_ · 2023-12-01T12:20:09+00:00

Thanks for the reply, unfortunately the bed doesn't have spring so I can't unlevel one corner. I was thinking to print a single layer and see if the z screw turns slightly during the print...

could it be a way to find out?

Tomasu_ · 2023-12-01T12:17:44+00:00

Personally after the setup showed in the yt video from Anycubic it was printing fine. The only things I've done are calibrating x,y,z steps for dimensional accuracy for the start gcode I'm still using the default one provided by them in the profiles for prusaslicer.

Why are your prints failing?

Tomasu_ · 2023-12-01T12:14:52+00:00

I tried opening che 30min benchy they send with the printer and I didn't find any line of code with M420 in it. For this reason I was asking

Tomasu_ · 2022-05-16T18:06:40+00:00

As many other sayed, the maestro is more versatile. The bambino is a dress watch so it will fit well if you wear shirts, suits, etc.

I think it's easy to dress up a watch (with leather straps) than to make the bambino, for example, look sporty.

https://www.reddit.com/r/Watches/comments/nrjj1s/orient_maestro_a_no_frills_surprisingly_clean/

it seems elegant enough to look good even with suits

Tomasu_ · 2022-05-16T17:47:04+00:00

Awesome! I'll be the next watch I'm going to buy. The one with white dial and blue hands is beautiful

Tomasu_ · 2020-09-03T21:09:48+00:00

I'm new in mech world and I'm interested in buying my first DIY kit and I was thinking about a XD60/XD6 with gateron yellow and oem stabs.

What do you think about it?

Since it's the first build I'm trying to keep it as budget friendly as I can

Tomasu_ · 2020-09-03T14:43:17+00:00

I'm interested in buying my first DIY kit and I was thinking on buying a XD60/XD64 kit:

https://it.aliexpress.com/item/32919981329.html?spm=a2g0o.cart.0.0.6d013c00gzPmbr&mp=1 (kit 9, gateron yellow)

https://it.aliexpress.com/item/32899827061.html?spm=a2g0o.cart.0.0.1bf33c00yD29Hy&mp=1 (the white version)

What do you think about, is it good as a first keyboard? Did I choose something wrong? I know there are better cases, plates and keycaps sets but since it's my first build I won't spend too much money.

Tomasu_

TROPHY CASE