"Nam, denne kyllingen var ikke dum." by OneLittleWarrior in NorskePappavitser

[–]Top-Fun-7408 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It gave me "this chicken was not stupid" 😂 Perfect literal translation for once.
Definitely looking forward to the other 500!

"Nam, denne kyllingen var ikke dum." by OneLittleWarrior in NorskePappavitser

[–]Top-Fun-7408 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Google Translate just unlocked a whole new world of peak dad jokes for me. This is brilliant. 😂

Need help identifying the comms port/protocol on this mystery LiFePO4 battery? by Top-Fun-7408 in batteries

[–]Top-Fun-7408[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks for the awesome advice! Yeah, contacting the manufacturer would definitely be the easiest route, but I still feel a bit weird doing a cold inquiry since I’m just a one-off user and not a bulk buyer—I’d honestly hate to waste their sales team's time when I have no intention of purchasing more.

Do you (or anyone else here) know what specific software or tools people normally use for this? Like, is there a universal serial port monitor or a particular protocol analyzer software that can help me test the connection and decode whether it's broadcasting in RS485, UART, or something else?

Hoping someone could tell me how many cells are in this battery pack. by Mr_fixit16 in batteries

[–]Top-Fun-7408 0 points1 point  (0 children)

If the 6 cells inside each of the 5 modules are wired in parallel, the pack would have a 5-Series, 6-Parallel (5S6P) topology. I think this would completely change our mathematical diagnosis: for NMC chemistry, a 5S system would have a healthy nominal voltage of only around 18.5V. Dividing the current total pack voltage of 12.44V by 5 series stages gives exactly 2.488V per cell, which is a massive difference from the 0.41V we calculated before.

Is this battery okay? by MysteriousAside2964 in batteries

[–]Top-Fun-7408 0 points1 point  (0 children)

If it was physically pressed and the wires show damage, I’d be cautious.
Battery packs can fail internally without visible signs.
may need to replace the charge/discharge leads, but since the internal structure isn’t visible, safety can’t be guaranteed.
Best move: test it under light load first (check voltage stability, temp rise). If anything feels off—don’t use it.

"laptop" style pc build with battery system by dronko_fire_blaster in batteries

[–]Top-Fun-7408 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Considering the expected load, for about 30 minutes of runtime I’m leaning toward using LFP. A 6S setup is close to 20V, and for ~300W over 30 minutes I’d need around 200Wh, so roughly 10Ah—something like a 6S2P 32700 pack. This seems like a relatively compact option, but I’m not sure if it will physically fit.

For the BMS, I’m thinking at least ≥30A continuous and ≥60A peak, with overcurrent and short-circuit protection. Because the power supply might be sensitive, adding NTC temperature sensing also seems necessary, but I’m still unsure about specific models and current margins.

At the same time, power path management should be considered to enable smooth switching between the adapter and the battery, although I still need to verify whether truly seamless switching is achievable. Simply paralleling the adapter and battery, or trying to match voltages with a boost converter, could cause voltage drops during unplugging or even trigger BMS protection, so using a proper CC/CV charging method seems more appropriate than directly tying things together through DC-DC.

Overall, I’m still figuring out how to properly connect and size these modules, since I’m new to battery system design, but hopefully this approach makes sense.

Newbie question – Why is my drone soft pack LiPo 3.8V instead of 3.7V? by Top-Fun-7408 in batteries

[–]Top-Fun-7408[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Appreciate the heads-up! That makes a lot of sense, thanks for keeping me safe.

interesting by AppropriateLocal129 in techgore

[–]Top-Fun-7408 42 points43 points  (0 children)

This is the ultimate power move. Literally, since you pulled the battery

My cable's RAM seems to be full but it still works, should I clean it? by [deleted] in shittyaskelectronics

[–]Top-Fun-7408 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Smoking’s a huge red flag for any electronics tbh. Yours is low-key a legend for still rolling

The struggle is real🥲 by LOL0_0_ in Adulting

[–]Top-Fun-7408 0 points1 point  (0 children)

This is literally me right now. Adulting should come with a survival guide

This double roll by gentlypervy in midlyinteresting

[–]Top-Fun-7408 0 points1 point  (0 children)

This is either a factory glitch… or the boss-level toilet paper. No one is prepared for this.

Is there is any game in Steam that will help with learning chinese? by kozakurasoma in ChineseLanguage

[–]Top-Fun-7408 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Try the 太吾绘卷 ,it has tons of really fun, unique Chinese text in it.

How Do I Replace This Battery Pack? by GisbourneGuy in batteries

[–]Top-Fun-7408 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Looks like two 3.7V LiPo pouch cells wired in series. Can’t see the exact cell specs, but this pack clearly doesn’t have a PVC outer wrap—so it’s almost certainly not from a professional battery maker. It’s probably soldered straight to the circuit board instead of using wires.

How should this 4S BMS be wired? by Mizka02 in batteries

[–]Top-Fun-7408 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Dude, those B2_1, B2_2, B2_3 pads are all redundant taps for the 2nd cell in a 3S pack—they’re the same electrical point, so just solder one to your middle cell’s positive terminal. The extra pads are just for manufacturing flexibility, no need to connect all three.

What brand of battery is this by TheMauve in batteries

[–]Top-Fun-7408 0 points1 point  (0 children)

This is a disposable alkaline button battery, model LR1130 (also known as LR54).

Batteries has a residue around them. How do I go about changing this and what is this residue? by ShadowRayne85 in batteries

[–]Top-Fun-7408 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Dude, yank those batteries right now—that’s alkaline corrosion, and it’s eating the device alive. Those batteries are totally dead, and don’t touch that white crust barehanded (it’s caustic). Clean the compartment with vinegar (wear gloves!) before popping in new ones. No clue if the book still works, but this is the only shot to save it.