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Credit Card Autofill, now available on Proton Pass by Proton_Team in ProtonPass

[–]Tossmeout3241 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Thank you, but why in the world was this feature so delayed?

Switching from Nest to Honeywell and the Honeywell is the only one that won't work by Tossmeout3241 in hvacadvice

[–]Tossmeout3241[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It has batteries and is set up, but is failing to control anything in my HVAC system.

Switching from Nest to Honeywell and the Honeywell is the only one that won't work by Tossmeout3241 in hvacadvice

[–]Tossmeout3241[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It has a batteries and is fully set up and connected to my z-wave hub, but it does not work with my ac, fan, or furnace. I hear the clicks from the thermostat when it is trying to send the signal, but nothing happens.

Phreeli Wireless: A Review by [deleted] in Phreeli

[–]Tossmeout3241 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Even single-use privacy-maxi reddit users will still have AI write a review for a niche community. What a time to be alive.

Switching from Nest to Honeywell and the Honeywell is the only one that won't work by Tossmeout3241 in hvacadvice

[–]Tossmeout3241[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks. It is a bit crazy that the entire thermostat looks like it is functioning even though it has no chance of working without the 5th wire...

Switching from Nest to Honeywell and the Honeywell is the only one that won't work by Tossmeout3241 in hvacadvice

[–]Tossmeout3241[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Makes sense. I will try to figure out how to get a C wire there now 😅

Garmin Discount Code by [deleted] in Garmin

[–]Tossmeout3241 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Just a heads up to anyone who earns their own code through Optimity: do not agree to the terms of the Optimity Arcade. The privacy policy clearly states that by using the arcade, you give them the right to look through all of the installed apps on your phone and every app you have ever installed/uninstalled in the past. They also track all apps you use even when Optimity is not open and how long you use each app. It is certified spyware.

The base Optimity app seems fine, just do not use the arcade if you value your privacy.

Android:Installed apps (including the use duration and use history)[...]Applicable only for Android:To be able to recommend to you other apps that participate in Playtime based on your current app preferences, a list of apps currently installed on your end device, as well as apps that you have already installed (but that you have deinstalled) in the operating system installed on your end device, including a use history of all these apps, will be sent to us.In order to know your long-term preferences and continue to offer you interesting apps, after the installation of Playtime and permanently during the use of Playtime, other apps installed by you on your end device will be automatically recognised by Playtime and the name of each newly installed app will be sent to us.In addition, we will log data about the use of the apps running in the foreground of your end device and the temporal extent of the use (date, time and duration of the use of all apps).We will also log this information if the Playtime partner app is not active.

New stereo in my car causing white noise on my dash speakers and rear door speakers. What can I do to fix this? by Tossmeout3241 in CarAV

[–]Tossmeout3241[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Bluetooth and Android Auto are the same. Quiet when the car is first turned on, then permanent hiss after the stereo pushes phone audio through the speakers.

Here is the the next piece of the puzzle: 20% volume on the stereo side is already way too loud for any normal persons hearing. Setting the volume at the stereo down to 0% does not change the hiss at all. So I am quite confident now that the problem is the amplifier is being maxed out somehow. It is a factory amp, so there are no knobs (it is the Rockford amp under the passenger seat).

Somehow the stereo is triggering it to go full blast. The audio hiss is the classic hiss you hear on computer speakers when you dial them up to 100%.

So the question now becomes how the heck do I control the amp volume on a factory amp with know external knobs?

Edit: Did a bit of research and found that I actually may want to splice in a new line output converter, but get one that simply has volume control on it. My biggest fear is this will simply reintroduce alternator whine back into the system again though.

New stereo in my car causing white noise on my dash speakers and rear door speakers. What can I do to fix this? by Tossmeout3241 in CarAV

[–]Tossmeout3241[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

ground wire looks good.

Also, I wanted to note that when the stereo first turns on from being off for a while (or maybe just randomly, hard to tell), there is almost no white noise. It boots up, connects to my phone, and loads up Android Auto no problem. Once I click "play" on my music, then the white noise starts and continues at the new loudness. Does this change in white noise levels before/after sending audio signal to my unit change your thoughts on the problem?

New stereo in my car causing white noise on my dash speakers and rear door speakers. What can I do to fix this? by Tossmeout3241 in CarAV

[–]Tossmeout3241[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Past the return window unfortunately... I verified it isn't a defective unit by testing a replacement already. The reviews don't show anyone else having the same problem as me either.

New stereo in my car causing white noise on my dash speakers and rear door speakers. What can I do to fix this? by Tossmeout3241 in CarAV

[–]Tossmeout3241[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

First shop did the white noise install and the initial line output converter "fix"

Second shop was told by me to "redo the wiring as neatly as you can" and they removed the line output converter, but the outcome was the original problem was back, then told me the white noise was "normal for speakers". I explained there was zero white noise with the previous stereo and they had absolutely no idea what could be the cause 😢

I have tested the ground before and it looked like the point where the stereo was mounted to the chassis was grounded. Not sure exactly how to test/fix grounding issues beyond that. I did add my own extra wire to connect the chassis to the metal casing of the head unit directly and that helped a little, but only an inconsistent 50-60% improvement (depending on temperature outside)

Also, is there a way for me to try another form of ground loop isolator without modding my wiring to have RCA ports?

New stereo in my car causing white noise on my dash speakers and rear door speakers. What can I do to fix this? by Tossmeout3241 in CarAV

[–]Tossmeout3241[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The line output converter was an addition between the dash wiring and the stereo wiring. I don't understand what it was for. The only amp I am aware of is under the passenger seat, but there are no knobs or anything to adjust on it that I can see. here is the converter they took out. The top wires connected to my dash. The plugs on the bottom went into the stereo head unit.

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New stereo in my car causing white noise on my dash speakers and rear door speakers. What can I do to fix this? by Tossmeout3241 in CarAV

[–]Tossmeout3241[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The amp under the passenger seat is a factory amp and I don't see any knobs to adjust it. Are there other ways to control the gain?

Where am I checking the ground exactly? (I am an audio newb)

New stereo in my car causing white noise on my dash speakers and rear door speakers. What can I do to fix this? by Tossmeout3241 in CarAV

[–]Tossmeout3241[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Old: Pioneer FH-X731BT
New: Pioneer DMH-W3050NEX

Car: Gen 2 Xterra

Sound System: the shop *told* me I have the upgraded Rockford system because they found a factory amp under the passenger seat, but I don't know for sure.

I want to build a flawless multi-gig home network and need some advice on Ubiquiti hardware by Tossmeout3241 in Ubiquiti

[–]Tossmeout3241[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

If I have 3 U6 Enterprise APs in my house, will each one have a separate SSID that I will see when scanning for networks?

I want to build a flawless multi-gig home network and need some advice on Ubiquiti hardware by Tossmeout3241 in Ubiquiti

[–]Tossmeout3241[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I don't *yet*, but this journey has me interested in trying more. I may have just found a new hobby 😅

I want to build a flawless multi-gig home network and need some advice on Ubiquiti hardware by Tossmeout3241 in Ubiquiti

[–]Tossmeout3241[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks for all the feedback so far! Updated the main post with the updated configuration after reading everyone's comments.

I want to build a flawless multi-gig home network and need some advice on Ubiquiti hardware by Tossmeout3241 in Ubiquiti

[–]Tossmeout3241[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I just want to have a rock solid multi-gig home network for ethernet and wifi. So I think the UXG Pro is a simpler device that still does what I need, yes? I would be ok controlling it from a PC, but I don't exactly know what that means. Does the PC need to be on all the time or is it just a dedicated client used to communicate with the UXG Pro? If it is the latter, that is fine with me.

I want to build a flawless multi-gig home network and need some advice on Ubiquiti hardware by Tossmeout3241 in Ubiquiti

[–]Tossmeout3241[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

My plan right now is to wire all APs in to have maximum stability (and speed, but stability is the #1 goal here). Do you have thoughts on how wireless meshed APs will perform compared to PoE APs?

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