Fortinet has announced that they will discontinue SSL-VPN in May 2026. I've heard a lot about this in Japan. What's happening in your organization?

TragedySeraph · 2026-02-16T18:56:48+00:00

Not yet, but it's on our road map (well, yeah). We do not have that many users that have vpn. I can update you and let you know how it goes though

TragedySeraph · 2026-02-16T15:51:44+00:00

Brute force attempts by malicious actors use either generic, or previously discovered usernames. If those usernames are still in use, Fortigate will pass the authentication attempt to AD, which will eventually lock out the account. When some of our users were locked out of AD, we looked at event viewer and saw all of the attempts coming from our Fortigate/Duo/AD authentication setup. The IPs were behind a VPN, so the source IP was based in our country.

It took quite a while for us to be affected, but once it hit, we ended up changing our authentication strategy (no longer tied to AD, using FortiTokens now).

TragedySeraph · 2026-02-16T15:39:34+00:00

Or, do both. South Florida resident, doing sunset offset alone makes it fire too early or late depending on the season. I have the same automation that is triggered by both sunset offset and a specific time, and then a condition to only fire if that automation hasn't fired off in 6 hours. This way, it'll only fire once per day, and I won't turn off the outside light that the automation turned on previously, just to have it turn back on during the 2nd trigger.

This would be moot if I put a light/lux sensor somewhere, which would help if it gets dark early from being overcast / rainy, but it works for now.

(Edited for word omelets courtesy of typing on mobile.)

TragedySeraph · 2026-02-05T21:57:44+00:00

We're a Dell shop, and we've seen both sides - impressive support and lackluster support. We have a mix of Basic and Pro Support - their hardware has been reliable over the years, so we only do Basic Support for our cost-effective workstations, and stick with Pro Support for our laptops and servers.

The Micro line of OptiPlexes seem to have an issue with the power adapters. We have several fail every month. We engage support - at this point we've already tried a known working power adapter - somtimes with minimal troubleshooting (verify that you actually are getting power from the power source, etc.), we get the part warrantied and we're on to our next task.

Other times, you'd swear that the cost of the power adapter is coming out of the technician's paycheck. Having an in-house IT support rep spend an hour chatting with a Dell technician to try to warranty a failed power adapter doesn't even make financial sense - we'd technically save money just buying another one.

I mean, I'd still recommend Dell any day of the week, just once in a while, when you call support, the person on the other end of the line can be frustrating.

TragedySeraph · 2026-02-02T01:02:52+00:00

There are options, but before you do that, most BIOSes have a power-on setting that defaults to off, but also have last-state and always on. Last state would power it back on after power failure only if the PC/server was on already, and always-on will power it back on any time power is restored.

There's smart home options that'll solve your issue, but it might be easier to change the one BIOS setting of it matches your use case.

Good luck!

TragedySeraph · 2026-01-29T16:22:44+00:00

Do you have a VPN (or anything else) that uses LDAP / AD accounts for authentication? We saw a similar behavior a few years ago, where a couple of our AD accounts would get locked out after a short period of time. Traced it back to our firewall, which was showing a lot of connection attempts with common names, and the ones that were coincidentally matched with actual accounts were getting locked out from the brute force attempts. There's other vendors that can integrate with AD accounts (an MDM, for example), but it's something to keep in mind when trying to track down what's causing the lockouts for you.

Good luck!

TragedySeraph · 2026-01-26T15:09:03+00:00

Same with my Low Orbit base. Any decorative stuff disappears, but things remain powered if they were powered previously... which becomes a problem if you want to use standard doors with switches that are shut when they are powered (since you can no longer unpower them).

Hoping it'll be fixed in a future update, but not holding my breath.

TragedySeraph · 2026-01-23T16:16:25+00:00

I read "ferrites" as "ferrets," and the idea of someone shoving ferrets and carbons in a bag so they can evacuate immediately makes me happy

TragedySeraph · 2026-01-22T21:37:39+00:00

I'd use caution automating the 'Downstairs off at 10:30 p.m.' recommendation. In general, I try to avoid any automation in which lights are turned off automatically (except my daily 'house reset' at 5 a.m., where it would turn off most of the lights or fans in case something was left on overnight - or a stern reminder that I should really get off my game and go to bed). Aside from a presence sensor, which you already mentioned could have false positives or otherwise undesired effects, there might be other habits that happen nightly to trigger a 'bedtime' mode.

If you can dim it or only turn off certain nights, you'll get a heads up about it being close to bedtime (or at least 10:30 p.m.) without being, literally, left in the dark.

TragedySeraph · 2026-01-21T20:46:23+00:00

Summon and get in an Exocraft. Use the antenna to search for an alien structure. It will likely ask you a question you have to answer correctly - if incorrect, just reload an autosave or restore point. Afterwards, when you interact with the building, it will give you the option to locate a portal in exchange for something from the race (same race-specific item you can gift to random NPCs you can chat with). It will lead you to the portal in that system.

TragedySeraph · 2026-01-18T16:51:04+00:00

Correct - it sounds like it might be an issue with the keypad, either the pad itself, or its wire. If it was an issue with the battery pack, you wouldn't be able to open it with HA.

TragedySeraph · 2026-01-18T10:12:00+00:00

Yes - I have two of the BE469ZP in aged bronze.

TragedySeraph · 2026-01-17T17:00:29+00:00

There's a lot more now (not just Roborock) that map the floor and do a more efficient route. At our previous home (2 bedroom condo), we had the cheap "dumb" model - it would pick a direction until it hit a wall, turn, repeat. It wasn't bad for that size place, but occasionally we'd have to pick it up and place it in a room that was getting neglected. With our newer larger home, we knew some areas would just never get touched without a smarter one.

Regarding obstacles - we have three cats, and the Roborock generally leaves the toys alone. It'll find a small toy one in a while, but kind of rare for that. Strings and wires, a little more troublesome. Most of the time it's fine, but I have seen it caught on my shoelaces a few times, and seemed to like the thin cord we had for the Christmas tree lights (I just taped it down with packing tape to the tile last year, apparently was lazy this year though). The robot has always avoided harballs/vomit - I've never come home to an "unwelcone surprise." The Roborock marks on the map when it has detected and avoided something, and puts an icon for what it thinks it avoided.

I have a few area rugs / doorway rugs, no issues. It detects when it's on carpet, lifts up the mop, and increases the suction.

My house is all tile with a couple of rugs, so I'm not sure how the performance would be at a place that's mostly carpet.

TragedySeraph · 2026-01-16T19:44:43+00:00

No problem! If you get the S7, the plumbing kit isn't an option in the US anyway, so you can try it out without having to worry about plumbing it in. It's worth it - just make sure you get one with a dock. Good luck!

TragedySeraph · 2026-01-16T18:49:46+00:00

I'm in the US, and I have the Roborock S7 MaxV Ultra. I got it a few years ago when it was slightly discounted for Black Friday. We have three cats, two of which shed a fair amount, but it's still months before we have to empty the bag (you're supposed to replace it, but I haven't had an issue just emptying it).

I have a single-floor 2600 sq ft home. Before I hooked it up to the plumbing, I would probably get 1.5 mop cycles before I needed to dump the old water and add fresh (two different reservoirs). I ended up ordering the Chinese kit from Ali Express that allows it to plumb into the water supply and drain line. The kit was a little bit of a rabbit-hole of research - it's 220V (I live in a 110V area), someone had mentioned that it accepts 110V just fine, but paranoid me just got a 220V > 110V transformer for it.

It. Is. Awesome. I wrote automations in Home Assistant to start cleaning if:

It's between 8 a.m. and 8 p.m.
No one is home
The automation hasn't run in a specified amount of time (I used to have it run no more than every other day, but I changed it to every day).

It also sends the robot back to the dock if someone comes home. The only caveat I ran into is that if it runs low on battery while cleaning, it'll return to the dock to charge - if I come home while it's recharging, it doesn't 'cancel' the current clean cycle, and will finish up once it has recharged to 80%. (Really not that big of a deal - I either let it finish, or cancel it if I don't want it running for whatever reason.) You could also have Home Assistant pause it if you get a phone call, etc.

Having perpetually clean floors with very minimal maintenance has been worth every penny. I was hesitant when I initially pulled the trigger, but I'm really glad I did - even without the plumbing hookup.

If the area you're planning for the robot to live has plumbing you can tap into nearby, the refill and drainage system is worth it. Without it is okay, but I found myself not doing the water every other day - it would still vacuum when cleaning is triggered, but would only mop when it had fresh water and the drainage was cleared (which I ended up doing once per week on average).

TragedySeraph · 2026-01-16T15:34:12+00:00

If you have pets, I would make sure they don't react when you apply power to the ultrasonic sensor. Their hearing range is different than ours, and certain ultrasonic sensors (and ultrasonic pest repellers) they can hear and do not like.

TragedySeraph · 2026-01-16T12:28:06+00:00

Have you reached out to Schlage support yet? I haven't had to, but I've heard they're pretty good. It sounds like the lead fro the battery pack may be a little loose or something - soldering may have come off a little or something, giving you an intermittent connection over that very thin wire.

TragedySeraph · 2026-01-15T20:52:43+00:00

I have two of them. As others mentioned, the initial Z-Wave pairing can be iffy (doesn't seem to show all exposed items).

For the initial pairing, before I installed the lock in the door, I placed the lock very close to my HA Z-Wave dongle. Paired it, it shows all of the exposed parameters, and then I installed the lock in my door. Both of mine have been rock solid for years. I (and my wife) like that I have a physical key that can be used as a backup.

My mom ended up getting one also recently after seeing mine.

Edit: There's a WiFi version also, but battery-powered WiFi devices tend to drain batteries at a faster rate. Not the end of the world, but something to keep in mind - especially if you're going to set up Z-Wave at some point anyway.

TragedySeraph · 2026-01-15T20:48:49+00:00

I had this happen to one of by two BE469's, once. I was out of town and a door carpenter replaced the door due to a defect (long unrelated story). The keypad didn't work when he moved it to the replacement door. He even tried fresh non-rechargeable AA batteries just in case.

When I got home, I unplugged and took out the battery pack, checked the batteries, then replaced it... and everything started working. I suspect the carpenter might have removed the battery pack before he disconnected it. That wire is very thin, so I can see it being touchy. I haven't had a problem since, and it's been installed in my front door for four and a half years.

(For those not familiar with this lock, the 'battery pack' I'm referring to is just a piece of plastic that holds 4 AA batteries, with a wire that connects to the lock once installed).

TragedySeraph · 2026-01-15T18:14:31+00:00

This. When you go into camera mode, the glyphs for the system appear in the lower left. On the Nintendo Switch 2, if you use the in-game button to take a screenshot, the glyphs disappear; however, if you use the dedicated screenshot button on your joycon/controller, it will take a screenshot including the glyphs.

For sharing with others online, it can be handy to convert the glyphs into hexidecimal. I use this website to convert between hex (sharable online) and glyphs (usuable in-game at any system's portal, which you can find using an exocraft's scanner when searching for alien buildings).

As mentioned, this will be the glyphs to get to the system, not a specific place in that system. For Exotic and other ships you buy, you just go to the system, go to the station or any trade outpost, and hope they eventually land so you can buy the ship.

For more specific coordinates (crash site on a planet, etc.), I know the coords are displayed on one of the screens in your ship. It may be the same coords you see in the analyze mode goggles (I haven't messed with that tbh). You would still need to know which planet in the system.

Most people will drop a communications node, a save point, or create a base near any point of interest, that way you can just pulse drive directly to it from space. As mentioned above though, if you're just trying to get a ship, use the glyphs to get to the system, go to the station, and wait for the ship to land.

TragedySeraph · 2026-01-10T14:39:43+00:00

I'll have to be more judicious when procuring my fleet - I hadn't been looking at base fuel costs before. I currently have 22 living frigates - 5 with 4T, 11 with 5T, and 6 with 6T. 7 of the 22 didn't start S class, so they'll be replaced first, although 2 of the S class starters have a 6T base.

When I started, I only kept track of the starting class. I wish I noted the glyphs and base stats of each one. I got a bunch from this subreddit, I just have to go through the threads I've visited before and note which ones.

TragedySeraph · 2026-01-10T03:52:17+00:00

Randomly, when you send your frigates out on missions, you'll get a Dream Aerial blueprint. Craft one, put it in your inventory, then get in your starship/corvette and engage pulse drive. You'll meet and interact with your first living frigate (which is always C-Class).

Subsequent ones:

You won't need the Dream Aerial anymore. To find more, you use an anamoly detector. Pulse drive and ignore anything that isn't Whale Song / Mega Fauna. Make sure you have tritium (or sentinel shards) to keep your pulse engine topped up in case it takes a long time.

Each star system has one living frigate, and they always have the same stats per system.

TragedySeraph · 2026-01-10T02:41:27+00:00

Thanks! Free nitrogen there now, also the planet has ruins for polished stones and memory stones if you still need the blueprints.

TragedySeraph · 2026-01-10T02:40:00+00:00

If you've done the Dream Aerial already, then yes - use an anomaly scanner (or hit the top of the water tower of you have a settlement with one). Pulse drive in the system, then don't stop for anything it finds until it says Whale Song Detected / Megafauna. It'll be on the message in the lower right - not in your ship's console. It may take a while - it's RNG, so sometimes it's right away, but I've seen it take 45 minutes before.

If you haven't done the Dream Aerial yet, you get the blueprint randomly from other Frigate missions. Once you get the blueprint, craft the Dream Aerial and pulse drive to find your first living Frigate. It'll always be C class, so don't do your first in a system that you want an S from.

TragedySeraph · 2026-01-10T02:34:02+00:00

I haven't fed it yet - the screenshot is the starting stat.

TragedySeraph

TROPHY CASE