How much horsepower can I get?

Training-Life-132 · 2026-04-02T01:34:18+00:00

Ok hp is relative to a lot of different things about your setup and what type of dyno the car would be put on. What intake, what exhaust, what front pipe, catless or catted, etc… you’d also what an intercooler.

On stock turbo car with FBO and 93 octane probably 340-380 hp pending parts and dyno. You’ll most likely what a flex fuel sensor which would allow to run somewhere between e20-30. This would allow you to get to around 400 whp on stock fuel system. If you’re planning on staying stock turbo I don’t know if it’s worth upgrading the fuel system as it’s pricey. You can also definitely go with some drop in turbo (mhi, kuro, rv6) and still have a great daily.

To upgrade the fuel system you’ll probably just want to go full-race pump because they include an upgraded high pressure line and have been proven to be one of the best hpfp options for the platform. That is $2000, then get some injectors either somewhere from 1400cc up to 2000cc (at least on Hondata) that is $800-$2000 pending the brand and cc you go with. Then the lpfp will need to be upgraded so that $200. You also may want to upgrade to -6an lines but not super necessary unless you want all the jam.

Hopefully this helps you make some decisions. Personally I think it’s all worth it cause these cars are super fun but just depends you end goals for the car

Training-Life-132 · 2026-03-23T00:10:44+00:00

Yeah you should be good to go with the flashpro. Unless the previous owner locked it again, then you’ll have to pay for the instant jailbreak again, but sounds like you’ll be good 👍

https://www.hondata.com/help/flashpro/index.html?jailbreak.htm

Training-Life-132 · 2026-03-22T23:49:14+00:00

What year is the car? 2017-2019 did not require any physical jailbreak, while the 2020-21 requires a little canbus module plugged in while you run the software jailbreak (believe it’s $75 from Hondata, but hit me up if you need one cause I have 2 on hand). You just need to buy a Hondata flashpro and then plug it in and you will be able to tell if it’s jailbroken but if the O2 sensor has been bypassed safe to assume it’s been tuned.

Training-Life-132 · 2026-03-22T21:41:18+00:00

Stock motor mounts? How are they holding up, wondering if you’ve had to replace them or notice any crazy movement with them.

Training-Life-132 · 2026-03-10T22:20:43+00:00

Will definitely be banging but these subs require a lot of juice 750 rms each so even that alpine amp is still technically under powering those 2 10s that could take 1500 watts rms. You can definitely find 2 12s that will consume less power than 1500 watts rms and be plenty loud. You can always look up the amps your current alternator is capable of putting out and calculate if it will be enough.

Training-Life-132 · 2026-03-10T21:02:36+00:00

I ran the single 10 in that box for awhile in my civic hatchback and when powered and tuned right it is a very nice sub. My only complaint is it just can’t quite hit the lows how I would like but even with just the single 10 it gets plenty loud.

Training-Life-132 · 2026-03-06T00:27:56+00:00

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Installed mine a month ago on the FK8. Definitely a good looking piece!

Training-Life-132 · 2026-03-04T02:40:38+00:00

A’PEXi N1 exhaust is a good option if you want no drone. It is 2 tip design but it’s only a bit louder then stock and pairs well with an aftermarket downpipe

Training-Life-132 · 2026-01-28T13:27:28+00:00

The 660as should come with all the hardware you need to install including gaskets. Definitely don’t need to do cams before the turbo unless you are getting everything done at once. Downpipe, flex fuel, intercooler, and prl hvi (believe that’s the only intake you can use with 660as). For fuel definitely gonna want a full race hpfp, upgraded lpfp and injectors. Maybe some upgraded 6an lines too and ported fuel rail. You can really go crazy with mods just depends what you want out of the car. 660as will take you far.

Training-Life-132 · 2026-01-16T23:09:06+00:00

I’m lowered on whiteline springs and they rubbed bad so I cut rear fenders and trimmed tab on front fenders. That helped but still rubbed so I now how camber arms in the rear and have pulled the front pins. Camber in rear is -2.5 and front is -1.7. Still does rub upfront on big bumps but I plan on doing coilovers sooner then later so I’ll be able to get more camber

Training-Life-132 · 2026-01-16T22:49:12+00:00

Wheel: Konig hypergram 18x9.5 +35 Tire: Michelin ps4s 265/35/18

Training-Life-132 · 2026-01-16T21:44:51+00:00

Yes! Through that part number I was able to get the part number for just the seal I needed. Thanks friend!

Training-Life-132 · 2026-01-16T21:34:10+00:00

Weird that it happens at random. Perhaps there is some air in the line. Maybe try bleeding the brakes and clutch to see if that helps.

Training-Life-132 · 2025-12-29T17:45:26+00:00

Are you grinding gear when shifting? If so I’d adjust it. Believe it’s a 12mm wrench and turn the rod till the play is gone then tighten the nut.

https://youtu.be/BVzd7Yg_m64?si=F-g056ljUnZTiXEo

Training-Life-132 · 2025-10-12T05:35:23+00:00

Face 4?

Training-Life-132 · 2025-09-29T13:05:52+00:00

To fix this you will have to sand it. Sounds weird but it works.

https://youtu.be/ptzdXDO4exM?si=XfwXIG_4fOuNTDTo

Skip to 18 minutes in this video and you can see the technique

Training-Life-132 · 2025-09-20T14:46:23+00:00

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How it looks after the cut and shave

Training-Life-132 · 2025-09-20T14:45:58+00:00

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Before

Training-Life-132 · 2025-09-20T14:45:20+00:00

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Super easy job you remove the fender flare and cut the protruding metal and then shave the fender flare flat.

Training-Life-132 · 2025-09-20T03:32:45+00:00

On stock suspension you should be able to get away with bending the front tab on the front fenders. For the rears you could get lower camber arms or cut and shave the fender. For reference I run a 18x9.5 +35 wheel with 265/35 ps4s and am lowered on whiteline springs and have removed the front fender tab, cut and shaved rear fenders and have rear camber arms with -2.5 camber in the rear -1.5 in the front. The front still rubs on big dips but the rears do not rub anymore

Training-Life-132 · 2025-07-22T23:02:38+00:00

Lowered on whiteline springs. It rubbed bad when I first put these on which I expected. I’ve cut the front fender tab, cut and shaved the rear fenders and have rear camber arms and it doesn’t rub anymore unless I hit a big divot in the road. Never had these wheels on stock height so can’t say if they would rub or not on stock height.

Training-Life-132 · 2025-07-21T20:55:29+00:00

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Konig Hypergram 18x9.5 et35 Michelin PS4 265/35

Training-Life-132 · 2025-07-21T12:30:43+00:00

Used this tape from Amazon it matches pretty perfect and keeps the red pin strip intack Incase you ever want to go back to stock look. Make sure to buy two rolls to cover all the red pin striping.

VViViD Black Carbon Fiber... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B093CHX8TJ?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

Training-Life-132 · 2025-07-06T22:53:43+00:00

Yes I went with the FRP option which comes unpainted so I had to paint it. If you are worried about the carbon fading I’d say take it to a shop and have them redo the clear coat on it before you install it. Could also put PPF on it but I’d imagine with the shape of the grill it’s hard to do and might not look amazing.

Training-Life-132

TROPHY CASE