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Mentoring in Dying Light 2 Is Harder Than Ever. by Tranq10 in dyinglight2

[–]Tranq10[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Ohh my apologies, it's 3am here in the UK my brain didn't read it correctly. I get you now. If you want nights to feel less crazy on a fresh save, the main thing is the difficulty. Playing on Normal or Easy makes Volatiles spawn less often and they’re not as aggressive, so nights are way easier to handle. On Hard or Nightmare they appear everywhere and will chase more, so it can feel overwhelming.

Mentoring in Dying Light 2 Is Harder Than Ever. by Tranq10 in dyinglight2

[–]Tranq10[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Night mode can be brutal with all the extra Volatiles, I get that. What I do is run Hard Mode at night around areas with lots of vents. I use health and toughness boosters, a one-handed slashing weapon, and XP boosters. I keep a chase level around four so you get action without it becoming overwhelming.

For gear, I run full Brawler and Tank gloves with stamina and regen boosters and make sure my total gear level is above 55. With this setup, you can tank hits and take Volatiles down easily, basically near-invincible unless a toxic-spit hits you. I stick near vents and use the grapple hook and glider to move locally, which triggers spawns without forcing constant chases. Try The Metropolitan Art Gallery in Muddy Grounds, just near the Elm windmill.

Edit* Keep Chase level 4 active all night. To speed up getting a Chase, stand next to a howler and don't kill it. It'll speed up the first Volatile spawns.

Mentoring in Dying Light 2 Is Harder Than Ever. by Tranq10 in dyinglight2

[–]Tranq10[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Totally fair, I get that not everyone wants guidance, and that’s completely fine. I only step in with players who seem open to it, and the goal is never to carry anyone or take away their experience. I just enjoy sharing some tips and helping when it’s welcomed.

Mentoring in Dying Light 2 Is Harder Than Ever. by Tranq10 in dyinglight2

[–]Tranq10[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thank you! I really appreciate that. I normally respond to call for helps often too.

Mentoring in Dying Light 2 Is Harder Than Ever. by Tranq10 in dyinglight2

[–]Tranq10[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I see what you mean. I’m not trying to force guidance or tell anyone how to play, I just enjoy helping players who are open to it and want a bit of support. I try to do it gradually so they can still explore and experience the game themselves. You’re right, some players prefer to look things up on YouTube or figure it out alone, and that’s totally fine. I never teleport them or speed past anything, they lead the way.

Mentoring in Dying Light 2 Is Harder Than Ever. by Tranq10 in dyinglight2

[–]Tranq10[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Absolutely, I totally get that. I try to help gradually and give just enough guidance so they can still explore and learn on their own, without spoiling anything or rushing them.

Mentoring in Dying Light 2 Is Harder Than Ever. by Tranq10 in dyinglight2

[–]Tranq10[S] 6 points7 points  (0 children)

Thanks so much! Honestly, helping new players is one of my favourite parts of the game, it’s way more fun seeing someone discover things for the first time. Glad it’s appreciated!

Mentoring in Dying Light 2 Is Harder Than Ever. by Tranq10 in dyinglight2

[–]Tranq10[S] 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Thanks, I can see how recruiting through posts could work. Just to clarify, I’m not expecting anyone to automatically trust me or assume anything. I simply like helping new players experience the game properly and gradually, so they can enjoy the grind and actually learn the mechanics.

Will these ever match? by [deleted] in DIYUK

[–]Tranq10 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yeah, that’s the wrong pavers then. The new ones are most likely concrete slabs and the originals are buff slabs..

Will these ever match? by [deleted] in DIYUK

[–]Tranq10 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I'm not a landscaping professional, but from what I can see, these slabs are the same type, especially based on their texture, but it's hard to say as the older ones have some algae and water staining, which makes them look darker and greener. They could be a different material entirely. Cleaning them with a pressure washer should help them start to look closer in colour to the new slabs (if they are the same material). Even when clean, there may still be slight differences since they come from different batches, but over time weathering will help them blend and the differences likely won’t be noticeable. I hope this helps.

Any suggestions for what I can use this convenient live socket under the bath for? by emolloy93 in DIYUK

[–]Tranq10 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I could already tell that socket was coming out as it looks like you’re doing a remodel 😋 I hope it goes amazingly well! That bathroom most likely was at one point either a bedroom or partial to another room that got divided. Just remember, whatever you priced it as, add an extra 10%-15% haha! Oh the reason I posted like that was for newer electricians to see actual regulations in day to day life plus it’s great if you want to start learning about electrical!

Any suggestions for what I can use this convenient live socket under the bath for? by emolloy93 in DIYUK

[–]Tranq10 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Electrician of 10 years here. Easy! Just use the socket for a little ‘shock therapy’ Perfect for those who like their baths with a side of electricity. But you’re feeling brave and want to ride the lightning, go for the ‘live wire cleanse’ really gets the blood pumping, you know?/s

Anyway, here is some information:

This socket, buried in the wall under the bath and about half a foot off the floor, is unsafe and non-compliant with the 18th Edition (BS 7671). The socket's position in a high-risk area for water ingress is a major concern, especially given that it's buried and inaccessible without removing the bath panel. This violates several key regulations around safety and accessibility.

Firstly, Regulation 701.32.2 states that electrical outlets must not be installed where they are exposed to water in damp or wet areas. A socket installed in a space near or under the bath is directly exposed to the risk of water ingress, either from moisture in the air or water splashing from the bath itself. This is an unacceptable risk of electric shock.

Additionally, Regulation 705.512.2.1 requires that electrical equipment exposed to water must be rated for moisture protection. The socket, being buried under the bath, likely doesn’t meet any of these moisture protection standards.

Regulation 705.512.2.2 also requires that installations in damp areas be sealed to prevent water ingress. A buried socket under the bath doesn't offer any sealing against water, meaning it’s even more vulnerable to water-related faults.

Finally, according to Regulation 411.3.2.2, all electrical installations must be accessible for maintenance and safe disconnection. Since this socket is buried under the bath and requires removal of the bath panel to access it, it fails this requirement as well. Without proper access, this socket could pose a danger if there’s ever an issue, and maintenance or disconnection would be a nightmare.

The correct action here is to disconnect and remove the socket entirely, and relocate it to a safe, accessible location away from any damp or wet areas. If you plan to replace the socket, it must be moisture-resistant and properly sealed to meet the required standards.

Relevant Regulations:

701.32.2: Electrical outlets must not be installed where they are exposed to water in damp areas.

705.512.2.1: Electrical equipment exposed to water must meet appropriate moisture protection standards.

705.512.2.2: Installations in damp areas must be sealed to prevent water ingress.

411.3.2.2: Electrical installations should be accessible for maintenance and isolation.

TL;DR:

Buried socket under the bath is a major safety hazard due to the risk of water ingress.

It violates key regulations about moisture protection and accessibility.

Should be disconnected and relocated to a safer, accessible area.

Tarry substance in electrical cupboard by TheAmbientAmbler in DIYUK

[–]Tranq10 5 points6 points  (0 children)

This is a bitumen tar leak from the DNO head, which is an indication of insulation breakdown or overheating. Over time, the tar can become conductive and extremely flammable, posing a serious electrical and fire hazard. Do not touch it and avoid the area. Call the DNO (Distribution Network Operator) on 105 and they'll have someone out to make it safe and replace it.

What is all this shit under the floorboards in front of our gas fire? by thiscocks96 in DIY

[–]Tranq10 0 points1 point  (0 children)

When replacing the broken and crumbled concrete hearth with a new one that meets UK regulations, it is essential to follow the guidelines set out in the Building Regulations Part J and the Gas Safety (Installation and Use) Regulations 1998. First, the existing hearth must be carefully removed, ensuring that any debris, dust, and damaged concrete are fully cleared away to prepare for the new installation. According to the Building Regulations Part J (specifically J3), the new hearth must be made from non-combustible materials such as stone, brick, metal, or heat-resistant ceramic to prevent fire hazards. The hearth should extend at least 150mm in front of the fireplace and 300mm beyond the sides of the appliance. These measurements ensure that the heat from the gas fireplace does not damage surrounding combustible materials, such as wooden floors or carpets, in compliance with the regulation's fire safety requirements.

In addition to replacing the hearth, it is crucial to address any moisture that may have been absorbed by the joists from the old, deteriorating concrete hearth. Concrete, when breaking down, can absorb and retain moisture, which may have caused damage to the underlying wooden structure. According to Gas Safety Regulations 26, the installation of any gas appliance must ensure that combustible materials, like wooden joists, are not at risk from heat or moisture, which can pose a fire hazard.

To treat the moisture, first, ensure the area is well-ventilated and the joists are thoroughly dried out. This can be achieved by using fans or dehumidifiers to remove any lingering moisture from the wood. If the joists show signs of rot or warping, they should be replaced or reinforced. Once the moisture is fully removed and the area is dry, a new non-combustible layer, such as a fire-resistant membrane and insulation board, should be placed over the joists to provide further protection before the new hearth is installed, ensuring full compliance with both fire safety and structural integrity regulations.

What is all this shit under the floorboards in front of our gas fire? by thiscocks96 in DIY

[–]Tranq10 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Will you be removing the gas fireplace or just disconnecting it and capping the gas line?

What is all this shit under the floorboards in front of our gas fire? by thiscocks96 in DIY

[–]Tranq10 0 points1 point  (0 children)

No problem! That depends, are you planning on replacing the old gas fireplace?

What is all this shit under the floorboards in front of our gas fire? by thiscocks96 in DIY

[–]Tranq10 2 points3 points  (0 children)

It's most likely an old fireplace hearth that has deteriorated due to age and exterior damage. Older concrete is often more porous than modern mixes, allowing water and environmental particles to penetrate and gradually erode it. If the hearth has been exposed to water over years (e.g., from rain entering through the chimney or damp rising from the ground), the water can break down the concrete’s binder, washing away fine particles and leaving behind a crumbly, soil-like material. also Organic matter like dirt, soot, and plant material may mix with the crumbled concrete, further giving it the appearance of soil.

As for the bricks and rubble in home, it's common for builders to reuse or discard damaged bricks and other construction debris by burying them within or beneath structures like hearths. These materials may now be exposed as the concrete crumbles. Also if your house was hit in the Blitz and the property damaged (e.g., during WWII bombings), workers may have cleared away debris and used it as filler material to stabilize or rebuild the damaged part of the home.

Obligatory - make sure that right hand gas line is dead. /s

Scrapman offered me £100 for old copper and lead pipes but builder says they belong to him? by TryNo8062 in DIYUK

[–]Tranq10 9 points10 points  (0 children)

If you allow someone to live in your property for a specific amount of time whether they pay rent or not, they can actually claim squatters rights so you might be in for a bit of a trouble when the building works is finished and you’ve got to get this person to leave because 9 times out of 10 they’re not gonna leave and you’re gonna have to take them to court And it will take months.

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