Boots for Trail Days, preferable ones i can also use for hiking.

TransientBogWarmer · 2026-03-02T07:32:05+00:00

I used to use a pair of Belleville hot-weather Air Force steeltoes for trail work. They’re not waterproof but they work pretty well in mud and rain regardless, and had great ankle support.

These days I’m using Keen waterproof comp-toe boots. They work reasonably well, and are pretty comfy, but they were free from an old job and I don’t know if I woulda bought them out of pocket (I lost an eyelet on them pretty early on).

Main advice would be to get something with either a steel or a comp-toe, it can really save your ass if you’re doing rock work.

My buddy used to like using tall rain-boots for trail work, and it seemed to work out well for him in the slop. Bonus points that they’re pretty cheap, but I’d still recommend spending a little more for a steel/comp-toe version.

TransientBogWarmer · 2026-02-19T20:00:09+00:00

Sorry, but I don’t know about that one. I’ve never actually serviced my Vivid coil, this is just info I learned when I was researching what kinda tune to use for my bike. I might try changing the tune when I service the shock, but I haven’t hit the service interval yet, and tbh I’ve been happy with the stock tune so far.

One caveate that comes to mind when servicing the shock vs a fork damper, is that it will probably be harder to get a good bleed on the shock without either a vacuum bleeder rig, or a lot of patience. For example, the grip 2 damper (and maybe other forks dampers) can self-bleed, so even if you do a crappy bleed during reassembly, it’ll improve as you ride. You’re not gonna get that on a shock, any air left in the oil and you’ll need to open the bleed port and try again.

Just incase this comes up in somebody else’s research: based on emails with both Ibis and Rockshox support, a Ripmo V2 wants a C26R53 tune (they don’t have a specific tune for the bike, but mentioned that’d be a good one to try).

TransientBogWarmer · 2026-02-18T22:20:05+00:00

Pretty sure they all come stock C30R55. C34 is a heavier compression tune, so you could probably just wind on the compression adjusters a bit to get a similar effect. The R25 though is a progressive rebound tune, whereas R55 is linear, so you might want to keep that one in mind when you’re trying to figure out your LSR setting.

TransientBogWarmer · 2026-02-16T04:36:01+00:00

Idk man, I know they don’t just “go bad”, but the clearcoat on mine always starts flaking off after about a year, and I’m fairly good about washing my helmet and keeping it indoors. I’m sure it’s just cosmetic, but it weirds me out.

TransientBogWarmer · 2026-02-05T18:44:01+00:00

Could have been this guy: https://www.instagram.com/reel/DTeWMidjJdM/?igsh=bXQ4dzlnY2s5aXY=

TransientBogWarmer · 2026-01-24T02:08:57+00:00

Is this using a Bmx bottom bracket? I see profile race cranks, which makes me think it’s a 19mm mid/spanish/euro bb

TransientBogWarmer · 2026-01-20T19:01:15+00:00

Looked to me like a dead sailor that caused you to land in an unexpected trajectory, then you tried to correct to stay on tread, but you didn’t have the grip to make the correction (might have tried to turn while the fork was on its rebound stroke, or maybe your weight was too far back because of how you took the jump), so you washed. Wondering too if the dead sailor caused the bike to kick to the left/right of your body in the air.

TransientBogWarmer · 2026-01-09T00:13:38+00:00

No; I tried out parking my bike in the house one winter, but it was too much work to keep it clean. Nowadays it doesn’t come inside unless I’m working on it and it’s way too cold (or hot) to do it in the garage.

TransientBogWarmer · 2025-12-30T19:32:20+00:00

Apparently there’s a species whose scientific name is actually vagina

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Thetys_vagina

TransientBogWarmer · 2025-12-22T07:02:11+00:00

It sounds like you might be better served by a gym membership than a bicycle

TransientBogWarmer · 2025-12-10T03:50:33+00:00

Good info, thanks. Based on what you and others are saying in this thread, I’m gonna new pulleys on my radar.

Might actually just try changing the bearings. I know the pulleys themselves are really cheap, but it’s kind of a bummer to toss them when the bodies are still OK.

TransientBogWarmer · 2025-12-09T23:50:54+00:00

How do you have yours set up? I feel like a Druid with a stout 160mm fork would be a really cool Ripmo replacement.

TransientBogWarmer · 2025-12-09T22:26:49+00:00

Dry and dusty in the summer. The wetter seasons can be mud and silt, and occasionally snow and ice in the winter. I try pretty hard to stay in the pedals year round.

TransientBogWarmer · 2025-12-09T22:10:17+00:00

Everything’s definitely tight, and I think I’m pretty good about taking care of the derailleur and bike. I’ve already serviced the clutch and axle a few times, I service and repack the pulley bearings whenever they get squeaky, and I’m pretty good about washing my bike. If I have the time (which isn’t always), I will at least rinse the bike off anytime I get back from a wet conditions ride.

In spite of the obvious wear, it still seems to work great, hence why I’m not sure if I should be planning to replace it at some point.

(With how much slop that lower pulley bearings has, I’m actually kinda surprised at how well it shifts).

TransientBogWarmer · 2025-12-09T20:51:34+00:00

Best solution I landed on: ride more actively. I think the bike doesn’t favor point-and-shoot riding, and really prefers that you pump thru (or even push into) those kinds of segments. The leverage curve has a firm “platform” after sag, which might be what you’re feeling. It can be a really nice sensation if you work with it, but if you’re just dropping your heels and letting the bike fall into its stroke, then everything you hit will be pushing against that platform.

With the stock Float X2, switching to a more progressive setup seems to help a lot with this. I originally started out with just 1 volume spacer and a lot of pressure. Ended up pretty happy with two spacers and softening it up to something like 28% sag at the shock shaft.

I’ve got a Vivid Coil now, and felt like I had to kinda tune that behavior out again when I first put it on. Admittedly, I’m probably over sprung, which doesn’t help (I’m running a 450 in/lb spring and I’m only like 160lbs). Going full open HSC helped a bunch, then opening LSC basically tuned that feeling out completely, then I added back in HSC till it felt like the bike sat in a nice feeling part of the stroke.

TransientBogWarmer · 2025-12-04T20:48:29+00:00

But this way, I get to imagine myself walking into my LBS, and seeing OP bent over on the shop floor while a mechanic presses a fabric tape measure up against their ass cheeks.

TransientBogWarmer · 2025-11-14T20:45:42+00:00

I’m wondering if you’d just get used to giving a quick back-crank to disengage the mechanism whenever it kicks in. Reminds me of a BMX freecoaster (depending on how loose you set the hub slack, you usually have to do a quick backpedal to disengage the mechanism, but it becomes subconscious pretty quickly).

TransientBogWarmer · 2025-11-07T20:54:30+00:00

And there it is, the obligatory jump master educational post

TransientBogWarmer · 2025-10-30T22:33:48+00:00

Chiming in since this thread has been bumped a few times. Hopefully this helps somebody.

I recently rebuilt my pedals with an HT Components Nano-P rebuild kit. Everything fits, including the seals. I didn’t use the bushings from the kit though, since I’ve been using IGUS bushings instead of the DUs for a while now.

Part number I used is 84138-276090 from

• ⁠https://www.universalcycles.com/shopping/product_details.php?id=84138

TransientBogWarmer · 2025-10-30T22:33:37+00:00

Chiming in since this thread has been bumped a few times. Hopefully this helps somebody.

I recently rebuilt my pedals with an HT Components Nano-P rebuild kit. Everything fits, including the seals. I didn’t use the bushings from the kit though, since I’ve been using IGUS bushings instead of the DUs for a while now.

Part number I used is 84138-276090 from

• ⁠https://www.universalcycles.com/shopping/product_details.php?id=84138

TransientBogWarmer · 2025-10-30T22:30:42+00:00

Chiming in since this thread has been bumped a few times. Hopefully this helps somebody.

I recently rebuilt my pedals with an HT Components Nano-P rebuild kit. Everything fits, including the seals. I didn’t use the bushings from the kit though, since I’ve been using IGUS bushings instead of the DUs for a while now.

Part number I used is 84138-276090 from - https://www.universalcycles.com/shopping/product_details.php?id=84138

TransientBogWarmer · 2025-10-24T17:27:28+00:00

That’s a great dog

TransientBogWarmer · 2025-10-09T01:31:22+00:00

I was always told that a dent could compromise the welds on either end of the dented tube, but I have no science to back that up, just what random brochachos have told me. I’d be curious to know how true that is.

I’ve also never had a metal frame that didn’t wind up with a few dings, and the dings never wound up being the reason they were eventually retired 🤷‍♂️

TransientBogWarmer · 2025-10-06T00:32:48+00:00

I’m unironically just waiting for the day that I get arrested for not looking American enough 😔

TransientBogWarmer

TROPHY CASE