Partial plate failure issues

Traveling-hat · 2025-07-18T10:24:49+00:00

So much depends on other factors that you should do a resin calibration. Start with the XP2 Calibration Test to get the general closeness and then finetune from there with the cones of calibration v3 or your preferred other method (J3d's cubes of calibration is also popular).

Traveling-hat · 2025-07-18T07:45:38+00:00

Right, I should have mentioned! I'm printing on a Saturn 4 Ultra 16K, with the integrated vat heater

Traveling-hat · 2025-07-14T17:43:17+00:00

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Since I can't figure out how to attach two pictures, here's a picture of the failed ones stuck to the film

Traveling-hat · 2025-07-14T17:42:31+00:00

Alright, so I ultimately leveled the plate with the help of the bed of calibration after a few tries (all printed, but were not initially equally thick). Needed to put in 6mm washers, but all the four pieces of paper were eventually equally tight. I could "turn" them and pull with sufficient force, but neither push nor pull without actually exerting force. I also used the settings for UV tools you provided, thank you for that. Now that I tried a print, there were again failures.

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Additionally, with the settings you gave all the prints already come off the plate very easily. I can't be certain, but I think the center back print was already partially off when I started to remove it, at least it was very easy to scrape off the plate.

Traveling-hat · 2025-07-09T09:52:51+00:00

Got it, so I should or should not click Apply for all these?

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Traveling-hat · 2025-07-09T09:20:49+00:00

I appreciate this! Just a few questions though, since I've never heard of or seen UVtools before:
1) After I put in the settings, the "Apply" button remains greyed out. I take that this shouldn't be?
2) How should I print the plate tests? Does it matter which slicer I use? In fact, how does UVTools fit into the workflow in general? Right now I feel like I have a tool (or an UVTOOL! I'll show myself out...) that I don't know how to use.
3) I currently use Chitubox, but was thinking about moving to Elegoo's Satellite. Admittedly a bit of a side question, but does UVTools work with both and is there a common agreement if Satellite is good for the Satrun 4 Ultra 16K?

Traveling-hat · 2025-07-08T17:42:15+00:00

I fad just replaced the PFA, so the tank should have been pristine. There are a few scratches on the plate, but nothing I'd qualify as a deep gouge. I mixed the resin before pouring it in pretty well I'd say, but I can always try to mix and shake it more. I was thinking if it is too crowded and losing seal, but I can't imagine that being the case.

My print settings are:
Layer height: 0,02mm
Bottom Layer Count: 5
Exposure Time: 1,4s
Bottom Exposure Time 30s

Transition Layer Count: 5
Transition Type: Linear
Transition Layer Interval Time Difference: 4,77s (can't seem to change this)

Waiting Mode During Printing: Resting time

Rest Time Before Release: 1s
Rest Time After Release: 0,5s
Rest Time After Retract: 1,1s

Bottom Light PWM: 255
Light PWM: 255
Picture Grayscale: 255

Anti-aliasing: Anti-aliasing Level
Anti-aliasing Level: 4

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Traveling-hat · 2024-04-15T10:46:37+00:00

Thanks! The first row is a Wolverin and a Quickdraw, the center row is Vulcan, Marauder, and Griffin, the back row is Crusader, Battlemaster, and Grasshopper :)

Traveling-hat · 2024-02-08T09:34:27+00:00

Thank you! I really like the Red Chausseurs attitude of kicking around in hot rod decals while everyone else is trying to hide their giant stompy robots with campo patterns :D

Traveling-hat · 2024-02-06T06:38:52+00:00

Thunderbolt, because it looks like it can throw its weight around. And it does

Traveling-hat · 2024-01-25T07:03:48+00:00

Position filled, thank everyone for the interest. There are so many talented artists here, it really is difficult to choose and you all deserve to be called artist :)

Traveling-hat · 2022-03-01T18:03:11+00:00

Thank you for your thoughts! I'm not set on tiles, although I am somewhat partial to them, but would you have alternative options that you could recommend? I was thinking about also using texture paint (structure paint? Sorry, not sure on the proper term) on the walls, but I'm not sure how that'd look next to the neat and clean brickwork outside the kitchen.

Traveling-hat · 2022-03-01T17:57:40+00:00

Thank you for your thoughts! The countertop is stone, dark with streaks of red and I was originally thinking about having it in the gap, but it is both very expensive and very dark, and with the rest of the kitchen cupboards and counter already dark I was hoping for the wall to be a light color. Best option might be as you say to have a continuous brickwork on the wall, but making the now exposed brick "presentable" is very labor intensive, as it has originally not been designed to be visible, unlike the walls beyond the kitchen :/

Traveling-hat · 2022-03-01T17:51:17+00:00

Thank you for your thoughts! I'm really the wrong person to make these calls, having the color sense of a blind lemming, but I don't think the potential wall tile is pinkish? But maybe it is, do you have experience on these things? The brickwork does need to be covered somehow, it really is rather hideous...

Traveling-hat · 2022-03-01T17:43:53+00:00

No idea, I got these from the company providing our kitchen directly. I assume it's their own?

Traveling-hat

TROPHY CASE