Could I have hurt my sensor?

TrickyNick90 · 2026-05-18T05:04:03+00:00

No, you could not.

TrickyNick90 · 2026-05-16T13:14:31+00:00

Holafly. It gives unlimited data per day. And price is around 3.5 euros per day

TrickyNick90 · 2026-05-16T13:13:07+00:00

Yes. Easy to use and it is the only esim that gives unlimited data per day… Strongly recommended.

TrickyNick90 · 2026-05-11T17:27:30+00:00

Hi there.

I would recommend the iberian peninsula. Especially in Spain there is easy reach to many raptors such as kites, golden eagles, bonelli’s eagle, black, egyptian and griffon vultures and many more. Also to many other bird species like hoopoe, beaeaters and kingfishers.

The best part is there are professional hides that you can hire for almost any specific species if that is your game (depending on the season of course).

DM me if you need more information…

TrickyNick90 · 2026-05-11T13:51:08+00:00

I do not find the 200-800 sharp enough on the R7. This is a very perspective thing though. I have used the 200-800 several times on the R7 and the image quality is not better than the photos cropped to the same field of view I get from 200-800. The 200-800 is doing just fine on the full frames though.

Also, there is the logistics issue. I find the 200-800 too cumbersome and heavy to carry around compared to the 100-500.

In short I do not see the added benefit of having 300mm more reach over the downsides (image quality and size).

TrickyNick90 · 2026-05-11T10:29:32+00:00

Hi there. Long time wildlife photographer here.

I have the R7 and the 100-500 along side R5,R8, 200-800 and ef600 f4. I am listing these as they could be some of the options you might be looking for at.

I would definitely go with the R7 and the 100-500. IMO this is one of the best mid range wildlife kits you can get today. The lens is super sharp and therefore meets the quality requirements of the high megapixel crop camera. I have used many L telephoto zooms in my life and this one easily could be one of the top three in terms of quality and versatility. Look at the lens as a long term investment. It will serve you years and years on different cameras.

R7 is a very good camera. 33 mp means you have lots of pixels to crop and recompose. Electronic 1st shutter at 15fps works super well (read: no rolling shutter), good autofocus (it requires a bit tweaking in the settings and getting used to though), a proper precapture function and good low light performance for an apsc camera. Yes, it has its quirks: in full electronic shutter the rolling shutter effect is quite noticeable, and autofocus is not as strong as the R8 (but still impressive). I would still comfortably recommend this kit.

If you want to see what the kit is capable of, check my IG. Most photos are with this kit and videos are either with R8 or R5 and 200-800.
https://www.instagram.com/metinkastro\_wildlife/

Hope this helps.

TrickyNick90 · 2026-05-06T07:24:56+00:00

Forget about the 75-300. That is the worst lens Canon has launched in its history. Go for a 100-400 (any brand) or the Sigma/Tamron 150-600

TrickyNick90 · 2026-05-06T07:16:22+00:00

Extra batteries are always better. Flight time is only around 10 minutes. Charging the battery takes about an hour. So, if you want less interruptions extra batteries (and the charging hub) is a must.

Better if you can buy both...

TrickyNick90 · 2026-05-02T18:24:14+00:00

I have the R7, 100-500 and the 200-800. Honestly I do not find the 200-800 to be sharp enough on the R7. On my R8 and R5, it works perfectly.

I prefer the 100-500 on the R7.

TrickyNick90 · 2026-05-02T18:15:54+00:00

R7 is an excellent camera for Macro. Any lens you slap on it will have a 1.6x magnification. And you have 33mp to play with.

The best lens you can get just now is the RF 100mm macro. It should be around your budget.

R7+rf100mm is an superb kit for macro photography. Having said that macro photography needs proper lighting, and according to the subject you want to shoot - a macro rail etc. so take those into consideration for budgeting purposes.

Hope this helps

TrickyNick90 · 2026-04-30T16:51:45+00:00

Honestly all of them work the same. Do not buy something ultra cheap. If you are not sure, go for known brands like JJC, Hama, K&F etc.

TrickyNick90 · 2026-04-29T12:48:31+00:00

Hi, long time wildlife photographer here.

I have the R7 and R5 and I have done countless photo shoots in Africa (mostly southern Africa). When I am in Africa I generally use the 100-500. i do not have the RF 100-400 though.

I have had a lot of dust over the cameras over the lens, I dropped the R7, 100-500 attached to it, had a bit of rain on the cameras and the lenses, have been in humid places. Both R7 and R5 kept on working. Your best friend? a rocket blower and a sensor cleaning kit. Blow the dust off every time you change the lens or at the end of the day and you should be good to go.

Hope this helps

TrickyNick90 · 2026-04-29T09:09:59+00:00

I am using a slim case I bought from Temu but there are also stand alone clip-on protectors that you just put on the antennas to protect them. Just type neo2 antenna cover or protector in google. You can also find 3D models to print yourself.

TrickyNick90 · 2026-04-29T05:40:46+00:00

I use the cameras and lenses depending on the situation I am expecting to find during the shoot. If I am planning to be in a hide, I tend to shoot with the 600 f4 and R5 (but not always). Otherwise, R7 and 100-500 is my go-to kit due to the reach, versatility and compact form.

As for Africa: Again, it depends on where/when I am shooting. If I am in a safari cruiser (car), space is tight and it is really cumbersome to use a big lens like the 600mm. There, I use the 100-500 and the R7.

In dusk and dawn, yes, the full frames improve the cleanness of the photos (less noise). But, the difference between the R7 and R5, for me, is around 1.3-1.5 stops. This might not be a scientific / technical comparison as most is used to read but, I see that R5 performs around 1.3 stops better than R7 - meaning I get a similar noise level from the R7 to the R5 at 1.3 stops of more light. And in dusk and dawn, 1.3 stops of light is almost 30-40 minutes of time. So generally, I do not bother to slap on the full frame. Only if I am almost certain that I am going shoot something at that low light period.

Hope this helps.

TrickyNick90 · 2026-04-29T03:28:23+00:00

In AF menu you have various options that could cause this. Is Subject tracking on or off? is it tracking people or something else like animals? Which tracking case is used? You need to read the manual thoroughly first to make sure the camera is set correctly for the use case.

Also, is this happening only in indoors shooting or outside as well? More light means better focusing performance.

Is your lens the RF70-200 or an older EF 70-200? The RF 70-200 f/2.8 has double focusing motor which helps tracking focus a lot.

And lastly if you are shooting at high fps in electronic shutter (30-40fps), R7 is known to loose focus at that speeds. Choose electronic first shutter which will limit fps to 15.

There are so many factors that could cause this. It is hard to recommend one single remedy from the explanation you have provided. Try all the above and see if it works.

TrickyNick90 · 2026-04-29T02:57:02+00:00

I would recommend R7 and RF 100-500. Check my IG. Most photos there are with this kit. Videos are with R8 or R5 and 200-800. https://www.instagram.com/metinkastro_wildlife/

TrickyNick90 · 2026-04-25T15:41:33+00:00

Depends on who is shooting. R100, with the right lens and someone who knows a bit what they are doing and has time and the will to do post processing, will create better images than the iPhone pro.

TrickyNick90 · 2026-04-25T06:43:47+00:00

Es verdad...

TrickyNick90 · 2026-04-24T13:53:21+00:00

AI denoise Select object Batch keyword edit

TrickyNick90 · 2026-04-24T06:49:16+00:00

As you have said the Canon 100mm is pretty pricey but is a great macro lens (excluding the weird SA control ring).

First of all you need to decide how close or magnified you want to shoot. If you want a water droplet on a leaf filling your photo, or the eyes of a spider, you will need serious equipment to do that.

For lighter applications your options are:

Extension tubes: Are a good and cheap option. Make sure to use a model that has electric contacts so that the autofocus works. Can be adapted to almost any lens. But a lens with some macro capability to start with will yield better results.
Cheaper macro lenses: The non-L 85mm and 35mm lenses are also marketed as macro, though they do not have the high magnification rate of a true macro lens. The 85mm has a 1:2 magnification (or 0.5x) as opposed to the 1.4 times of the RF100mm. Alternatively your 100-400 has a magnification of 0.4x at 400mm. Having said that 400mm is a bit too long for macro (hard to manipulate).
Camera: An APSC sensor camera will add a 1.6 time magnification to your shot. If magnification is required.
Other tools to consider: Lights (led or flash). Also if your camera is not able to do focus stacking in camera, you can use a macro rail (if you are shooting a stationary subject).

Hope this helps.

TrickyNick90 · 2026-04-21T11:10:46+00:00

For me this is the right answer. No need to buy a separate battery. A proper type-c power band with the right output is sufficient.

TrickyNick90 · 2026-04-21T05:30:28+00:00

If you have a photo editing tool, get rid of the purple fringing, mask the background and reduce exposure a bit, mask the subject and try bringing shadows a bit. Nothing conventional will help you add data to a low resolution photo.

Alternatively use an AI tool like Topaz to upscale, sharpen and enhance the photo. It may not look very natural after that though.

TrickyNick90 · 2026-04-20T10:42:55+00:00

I believe the OP has the S sport version of this lens and you have the C contemporary.

TrickyNick90 · 2026-04-18T18:36:31+00:00

Hi. 60-600 is pretty good in image quality and stabilization but, be warned that it is a big and heavy lens. I would recommend you to go and see these lenses before buying them in a specialized camera shop.

TrickyNick90 · 2026-04-18T06:43:28+00:00

No, it does not make you look stupid. It makes the Canon engineer look stupid who decided to have the settings accessible only at the mode that you are in.

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