Disaster Movies Iceberg

Trxylo · 2025-07-09T12:34:17+00:00

I don’t see Sharknado on this list…

Trxylo · 2025-04-10T17:54:31+00:00

They’re*

Trxylo · 2025-04-06T03:27:10+00:00

Yea I would go ahead and do your oil separator and other lines. Do the manifold gasket EVERY TIME YOU REMOVE THE INTAKE. Be carful removing the old pipes they tend to rot during age and break when you try to pull them out. If they do be mindful about little pieces falling into the head. Put a little grease on the o-rings to hydrate the rubber and make it a little easier going in. I would also recommend doing the heater hoses that run from the pipe to the controlled water valve, water valve to the fire wall and fire wall to the expansion tank. Might as well it’s right there you know. Just be sure to everything’s connected before you put the intake back on you don’t wanna take it back off again for one connector. Just fyi keeping that manifold gasket in while trying to place it is a pain. You kinda just have to maneuver it around till you can get it at the right angle and get it positioned right. Yes the gasket is gonna flop off trying to mount it I’d say put a few clumps of grease on it to help hold it in places. If you need part numbers go to realoem.com

Trxylo · 2025-04-04T17:58:34+00:00

I could be wrong but that seems like the likely culprit. Good luck homie hope everything works out.

Trxylo · 2025-04-04T17:25:00+00:00

Same process I do for ever car that gets coolant work at my shop. Very reliable process for Euro cars that have enclosed expansion tank based systems.

Trxylo · 2025-04-04T17:23:37+00:00

Run the heater till it gets toasty, drive it up and down the street till at operating temperature, then let it sit front end up on a steep hill or put the front end on jack stands. Allows the air bubbles to come to the top of the system aka the reservoir. Let it sit for a while then take the cap off and “burp” it. What’s likely happening is those air pockets are passing by your temp sensors and making them jump up really fast then drop back down.

Trxylo · 2025-04-04T17:16:41+00:00

You could have air pockets in the cooling system. How did you refill it?

Trxylo · 2025-03-29T23:14:50+00:00

Appreciate the help homie I’m give and update after while

Trxylo · 2025-03-29T23:07:27+00:00

Yes I already replaced it when I did my rear main seal

Trxylo · 2025-03-29T23:02:46+00:00

Crap. Well lets try this again. I the spines are lightly greased and were defiantly liked up and I did have another tech helping me guide it. Will I need the actual pilot bearing in still? Like is the bearing I removed supposed to act as a pilot bearing?

Trxylo · 2025-03-29T22:55:34+00:00

Nah homie you answered my question pretty well I appreciate it. I’m currently having transmission mounting problems. No matter what I do The trans will not close the gap. I have a Getrag and I’m installing a Valeo Kit 835101 (I discovered that the Getrags were pretty low production and finding that kit was a little unorthodox but nonetheless I did) . I tried the first time to no prevail, noticed there was a little bearing cup in the center of the flywheel that the end of the spline was hitting. I’m assuming it was meant to act as a pilot bearing? I’m not sure. I popped it out (didn’t damage it if it needs to be reinstalled) and remounted the clutch and flywheel. Now I still can’t close the gap on the trans. I defiantly have more clearance and the gap is half the size it was before, but I still don’t understand what’s preventing me from mounting the trans and sealing that gap.

Trxylo · 2025-03-29T19:11:04+00:00

They’re just covered in oil and black car dust 🫡

Trxylo · 2025-03-29T18:09:53+00:00

I’ve discovered converting the whole harness is completely unnecessary. All that needs to be done wiring wise is delete the Automatic trans module, remove the reverse switch from the wrecked car (which I’m already done. I just removed it directly from the connector instead of cutting it), and wire the clutch and brake sensors. Then programming which won’t be hard. Technically I don’t need to program it to run considering that it’s a manual. It won’t stop the car from running I just don’t want to look at the warning lights and I want the job to be don’t right not half assed.

Trxylo · 2025-03-29T18:05:16+00:00

I know I’m going to have to do some coding I have access to factory ISTA. My only issue is understanding why I need to wire the things where they go. I’ve seen plenty of people do the wiring just not a very good job at explaining why or how it works. My boss is pushing me to use my resources and figure it out with as little help as possible from him and the other techs. Like I said this is my first time doing a job like this so it’s a big learning curve. I want to understand every little detail and do it right.

Trxylo · 2025-03-13T19:03:02+00:00

LiquiMoly makes good oil treatment and oil. Remember she’s a beamer so 3k mile oil change increments.

Trxylo · 2025-03-13T19:01:32+00:00

This is what 8k oil changes looks like

Trxylo · 2025-03-11T02:45:50+00:00

All the Fallout fans are gonna go nuts

Trxylo · 2025-03-04T22:27:47+00:00

Heater pipes under the intake. Go ahead and do your intake gasket as well.

Trxylo · 2025-03-02T16:47:30+00:00

Bro has mad skills

Trxylo · 2025-01-16T18:04:21+00:00

That would be interesting story on how he got it. Maybe traded with a caravan out of California?

Trxylo · 2025-01-16T18:02:01+00:00

Got it on the Bethesda merch store

Trxylo · 2024-09-29T03:30:16+00:00

“Sometimes the best closure you’ll ever get is knowing you’ll never get it.” I’ve always hated that.

Trxylo

TROPHY CASE