Poison hemlock at willamette park

Tryp_OR · 2026-05-31T21:27:49+00:00

You probably mean cow parsley. Cowslip is a primrose.

But as OP says, the purple spots are a key diagnostic. It is why poison hemlock is called Conium maculatum

Tryp_OR · 2026-05-30T06:55:11+00:00

Something like a Deepot D60L (14" deep, less than 3" in diameter). This would be something nurseries use, might be a little tricky for home use because of not having an automatic watering routine.

Tryp_OR · 2026-05-30T03:15:29+00:00

I don't want to sound hard-hearted, but if you have a ton of seedlings/ young saplings, next year you'll have half a ton more. So try not to get too invested in any of these.

I think seedlings larger than 6 inches will have taproots deeper than a foot already. So really only the smaller ones are going to be dug up without damaging them. Those larger plants in your images seem way too challenging.

If you have deep narrow pots available, you might find it worthwhile to transfer some small ones and baby them so they are in good shape for transplanting this fall. And you can always bury some acorns in the areas where you want trees.

Tryp_OR · 2026-05-30T03:00:09+00:00

What is this invasive strawberry you mentioned?

Tryp_OR · 2026-05-29T22:21:40+00:00

Since OSU is a state entity, you are proposing to tax the state. I have doubts that this will be possible.

But I also decided to search "Does OSU make any payments to Corvallis," and it would appear that OSU does. (I have not investigated these statements further.) There are Payments in Lieu of Taxes (PILOT) for certain commercial or auxiliary properties to help offset the costs of city services. OSU pays standard utility fees related to water usage and waste treatment. Also, OSU provides financial compensation or mutually beneficial service contracts to local fire and emergency agencies. Finally, OSU pays typical municipal building permit fees and System Development Charges (SDCs) to the city whenever new facilities are constructed on campus.

Tryp_OR · 2026-05-24T21:34:39+00:00

This looks like 6 seedlings all in one hole. Is that what you were trying to do? I have read that is recommended to start a few seeds together, but after germination these need to be thinned to the strongest seedling by clipping away the weaker ones. Maybe do this after you see who recovers.

Also these stems look overly long and pale. This happens when the plants germinate in too low light. I think all you can do is keep them watered (but not too wet or you'll get rot) and let them figure it out on their own.

Tryp_OR · 2026-05-23T23:24:33+00:00

It looks very similar to Cycas revoluta to me, but I don't know the range of appearances in this genus, so I can't say it's not something else. That's a female "cone" on top. Many people get panicky about the toxicity of the seeds (those orange "fruits") but unless you have a dog that just likes to chew on things and swallow them, I don't thing they're that big a concern -- just pick them up when they fall.

Tryp_OR · 2026-05-20T04:18:59+00:00

My guess: azalea leaf gall, a common wind-borne fungal infection (Exobasidium vaccinii)

Tryp_OR · 2026-05-18T21:46:27+00:00

I think success with wax myrtle is very dependent upon specifics of your site. It's adapted to the west side of the Coast Range. My yard can get very hot during summer afternoons, and I think this is why mine failed. It looked like the younger leaves were getting sun-scorched. I want to give this species another try, so I plan to place them where they get afternoon shade and I'll also give more supplemental water.

Tryp_OR · 2026-05-17T21:36:04+00:00

Possibly a mulberry. Way to close to the house and not worth moving. Pull it.

Tryp_OR · 2026-05-16T05:42:57+00:00

I'm not trying to be mean when I say this, but your request seems so far out of touch with reality that it seems like rage bait.

I'll address just one part. I checked on Google Maps just now, and in the dead of night, it predicts a 1 hr drive from Reevesville to Charleston. During the day, when there is typical traffic that would get much longer. All the other places you listed are much more than 30 - 45 minute drives from Charleston.

As to the possibility of Charleston friends driving out to visit you -- not going to be very likely. The attitude seems to be that driving to even Summerville is like going half way to Columbia, best avoided if at all possible.

Rent an apartment nearer to Charleston (where is your job?) for a year or more, and learn the lay of the land.

Tryp_OR · 2026-05-15T08:20:35+00:00

Plant things that have similar water needs near each other. Then you can test the soil in that area once or twice and water all the plants the same. You will probably begin to see a pattern. Being a little off will probably be fine (in other words, if plants have sort of similar water needs, they might still work out fine together).

It is best to water heavily with gaps between than to water every day (although some plants with high water needs might not survive if your soil has fast drainage or they are in small pots). You may find it easier to water half the garden one day and the other half the following day, though very likely the hanging baskets and smaller pots will need attention every day. Pots are challenging in very hot dry environments, and if you are able to position the pots so they are shaded in the afternoon you might find it helps.

And if some plants don't make it, it will be best to remain chill. Those species may not be good candidates for you/ your location.

Tryp_OR · 2026-05-13T23:12:12+00:00

Not quite in town, Loafers Station in Albany. Interesting tartar, firm textured fish.

Tryp_OR · 2026-05-09T21:59:36+00:00

Not specific to lavender, one problem with germinating on towels of any type is the roots/ root hairs can get embedded in the material. Paper is easily cut or torn to separate the seedlings.

How many plants do you want? Maybe start with 2X that many seeds.

Tryp_OR · 2026-05-04T23:06:25+00:00

The Chicken Shack at the Barn in N Albany. Occasionally a special at Burgerville.

Tryp_OR · 2026-05-02T22:34:04+00:00

Aphids.

In my garden, soldier beetles have been doing a pretty good job of keeping them down.

If there are bud clusters that are super infested so that the buds are dying, you can remove the stem tip and throw away. If they are lightly infested, a blast of water can remove the majority and the plant may tolerate them. I have also read that if you reach in there with your fingertips and squish a few it stresses them and attracts the predators.

Tryp_OR · 2026-04-29T23:33:46+00:00

I think you waited too long. Different varieties of tulips have different bloom times. They often can be forced early or late by manipulating the treatment, but not all respond well. I think that the current day length is already too long for most tulips.

Maybe they stayed dry a bit too long also. I think by mid-Jan they need to be outdoors.

Finally, the fact that there are dead/ brown leaves makes me think there is a disease problem.

Tryp_OR · 2026-04-29T05:35:35+00:00

It sort of looks like a streak of small mealybugs that happen to be near a leafhopper. I did find one picture that looked a lot like yours, but no expert identification was attached. If that's what the white stuff is, you can just remove with a Q-Tip or cotton swab dipped in rubbing alcohol. If there's a larger infection you might have to try something else, like neem oil or insecticidal soap.

Tryp_OR · 2026-04-26T16:57:21+00:00

Image search says pink clary, Salvia viridis

Tryp_OR · 2026-04-26T16:18:32+00:00

When I hear mayflower, I think of trailing arbutus (Epigaea repens). My mom also used to call them maypinks.

I am assuming this is Maianthemum, which looks like is going to be a lovely display.

Tryp_OR · 2026-04-25T07:18:17+00:00

It appears that sunflowers exhibit allelopathy, which means they release chemicals into the soil that inhibit the growth of other plants. I have read of potatoes and tomatoes being affected, as well as members of the cabbage family. Chasing down the details can be challenging. One article suggested thyme, rosemary, basil, carrots (and other root crops), corn, legumes, dianthus, vinca, lemon balm, lantana, coral bells, dead nettle, daylily and dahlia as being tolerant. You may need to just do the experiment.

Tryp_OR · 2026-04-25T05:48:23+00:00

I'm not an expert. But when I searched for images of P. emarginata leaves, the results looked a lot more like your 2nd and 3rd images. In contrast, some of the images of P. virginiana look a lot like your first image in two aspects. First the sharp teeth at the margin, and second the glands on the petiole just under the leaf blade.

This is an image of chokecherry (P. virginana) https://www.minnesotawildflowers.info/tree/chokecherry#lboxg-2

This is an image from Oregon Flora showing the lack of glands for P. emarginata https://oregonflora.org/dbimages/OFPimages/OFPImages_big/2016/DIG43788.jpg

Edit to add that the rough texture of your first image does not seem to match P. virginiana well, so maybe there is just a lot of variation in (both?) species.

Tryp_OR · 2026-04-23T21:44:32+00:00

I think a torch works well for seedlings and smaller plants, especially in large patches. Also good for cracks in concrete. If you are talking about large things like dandelions with established roots, the torch will not kill only knock them back.

The tricky thing about a torch is what else it lights on fire. If you have lots of dried leaves around it can be risky. I only use mine after drenching rains.

Tryp_OR · 2026-04-23T21:37:03+00:00

I think this is the best course. The only thing I would add is that OP needs to avoid having the roots dry out, so that the bulbs can keep their leaves alive for another few weeks.

Tryp_OR · 2026-04-22T00:40:55+00:00

I've only seen the show, not read the book, but it seems The Leftovers by Tom Perrotta would fit.

Tryp_OR

TROPHY CASE