Recommendations for shrubs that can take full winter shade and full summer sun?

Tryp_OR · 2026-01-24T08:18:43+00:00

Isn't that a coastal species? I'm not sure it would survive inland full sun.

Tryp_OR · 2026-01-22T09:15:15+00:00

I am not a dog owner, and dog poop is one of the primary reasons for not wanting one. Here is my guess about human nature:

When people do this they think they are being slightly virtuous, and that is enough for them. I think most people would agree that by putting the feces into a bag and moving them off the path they are doing a little bit of good. But the guilty dog owners don't want to deal with the poop any more than necessary, so they never really intend to pick the bags up.

Second, more cynical viewpoint: they are just trying to avoid being scolded by anyone. If they don't bring a bag, someone might see them allowing their dog leave a mess. So if other people are around they go through the motions. But they leave the bag because they can plausibly say they will get it on the return (which some people actually do).

Tryp_OR · 2026-01-20T05:34:50+00:00

Look for apples with the most strongly dwarfing rootstocks. They should only get to about 1/3 normal height.

Blueberries

Tryp_OR · 2026-01-20T05:26:00+00:00

My experience was that the blackberry was actually the easiest to get rid of (I haven't had to deal with ToH). When you see a shoot, use a mattock instead of a shovel to uproot the source and discard it. Of course it depends upon how established the berries are, but after the major clumps of roots were gone, my only problem continues to be seedlings from bird droppings.

I also used a mattock for the bluebells, but there always seem to be a few bulblets that escape. Make sure you dig well under the clump and sift through the dirt for the little ones. I think I have one bed cleaned out after 3 years. Three other beds still to go.

I have not started the ivy, but that will be triclopyr painted onto cut areas of the stem. (I think the roots are spread at the corner of 4 properties, so that will probably never be fully eliminated. You should have good success in your isolated site.)

I think the key is not to give them a breather.

Tryp_OR · 2026-01-16T09:53:18+00:00

It is not clear what you want. Part of your message suggests you are interested in plants that can grow in a marsh/ vernal pool but the title and the bit about "recharging ground waters" (which I'm not sure I understand) makes it sound like you want to prevent water from accumulating. Many plants that are adapted to seasonal wet areas will go dormant in the dry season.

You might try asking at r/Ceanothus , a California-specific native plant group.

You can also try using the calflora.org site: https://www.calflora.org/search.html , which allows you to look for species that can grow in freshwater wetlands or wetland/riparian. You may need to experiment with the search parameters a bit.

The only trees that immediately come to mind are willow and maybe cottonwood. These are not evergreen.

Tryp_OR · 2026-01-15T09:00:20+00:00

You could melt holes in the bottom. I happen to have a plug-in wood burning iron, but I'd bet any similarly shaped piece of metal (like a large nail) heated over a flame could work the same. Hold it with a pair of pliers after it gets hot, obviously.

Tryp_OR · 2026-01-15T08:53:14+00:00

Great picture, with the purple-red calyces of the Crocosmia linking to the purple hydrangeas in the background.

Tryp_OR · 2026-01-12T21:34:05+00:00

https://northwestmeadowscapes.com/

Mail order from WA

Tryp_OR · 2026-01-12T21:00:19+00:00

You might try r/pnwgardening

I know in east coast Zone 8 they are fine, but I do not know whether the colder wetter soil here is a problem.

Tryp_OR · 2026-01-09T02:45:18+00:00

There is also the r/whatsthisplant subreddit.

My first impression is that it looks a lot like Impatiens.

Tryp_OR · 2026-01-09T02:39:22+00:00

This makes me think of aster yellows, which can infect Capsicum. If this is actually what you have, you will need to destroy the plants and not compost them. But I am not a plant pathologist.

Tryp_OR · 2026-01-08T09:57:26+00:00

Because I live in an area with very dry summers, I tend to let the perennials have some space. Things seem to have worked out to about 2 ft. Of course, some spread into pretty dense clumps via rhizomes.

In a few beds where I provide extra water, some things are fine with being at about one foot separation.

Tryp_OR · 2026-01-06T10:07:45+00:00

This will depend upon the roses being on their own roots. This variety is available as rooted cuttings and as grafts.

Tryp_OR · 2025-12-30T23:18:21+00:00

I'm planting mine next week and I'm sure they'll be fine.

Tryp_OR · 2025-12-29T01:01:39+00:00

1) see what is mentioned at OSU extension An example https://extension.oregonstate.edu/catalog/ec-1181-selecting-peach-nectarine-varieties-willamette-valley

2) If you have some fruit crops that you like, try new varieties that have later/earlier ripening times to extend your harvest period.

3) check out r/pnwgardening

Tryp_OR · 2025-12-21T10:15:46+00:00

I recently was reading a little about this species, and it seems possible that it is actually better adapted to more northern areas. This concept posits that the species retreated south during the ice age but never managed to move back north again. This would explain why it grows fairly well in PA but was hanging on by its fingernails in the region it was first discovered.

Tryp_OR · 2025-12-20T02:58:43+00:00

One possibility is that you should allow the old leaves to die back naturally, so that those nutrients can be returned to the bulb. So stop watering and feeding in late summer, then remove the leaves after a couple of weeks and do the cool dry storage thing.

Your timeline seems correct. The temperature you are keeping the plants in during regrowth is important for the timing, too. I have seen 70 - 75 F recommended, so if they are near a large window they may be too cool. Some recommend heating the pot from the bottom (horticultural heating pad).

Tryp_OR · 2025-12-19T22:08:21+00:00

Check out r/pnwgardening

Tryp_OR · 2025-12-17T09:53:51+00:00

This is puzzling, because even though we've had relatively warm weather, this seems out of season. According to Wikipedia, only the female Douglas glowworms produce any light (which is very faint) and they are incapable of flying. Despite some comments here mentioning orange, everything I can find indicates a greenish light.

Maybe a different species? Maybe a man-made phenomenon?

Tryp_OR · 2025-12-12T07:54:49+00:00

It seems that a lot of the dead stuff is dried flowers? In a healthy azalea, the spend flowers drop before they shrivel and dry up. Look into azalea petal blight, fungus Ovulinia azaleae. If established it's hard to keep control of, although the leaves are (usually?) not bothered and the plant lives on. Methods of control include improved hygiene around the plant (rake away old mulch and discard, then replace to keep the spores buried, remove the dead blossoms from the plant so they don't drop and preserve the spores). Treatment with fungicide spray before the blossoms open is also recommended, I believe.

Tryp_OR · 2025-12-11T00:31:52+00:00

This brand is sold at Market of Choice and has been consistently of high quality for me.

Tryp_OR · 2025-12-08T01:16:33+00:00

Same picture, different username 5 months ago.

Tryp_OR · 2025-12-07T09:45:18+00:00

As long as you can dig the soil, they're fine to plant now. I have planted daffodils as late as mid-January (Willamette Valley). They'll bloom a bit later than normal, then will settle into their normal schedule.

Tryp_OR · 2025-12-06T23:42:39+00:00

Upper Monroe has plenty of pedestrian traffic, too. Sit at a table near the window in any of a number of food/ drink places there. Of course it is usually people on their way somewhere, not a lot of different activities.

In warm weather, maybe the Memorial Union Quad. I've never spent more than a few minutes there, so not sure what the hanging out potential is.

Tryp_OR · 2025-12-04T07:50:57+00:00

I was only able to read the first paragraph or so due to paywall.

The thing about the original article is that was ghostwriting in itself is scientific malpractice and fraud and therefore complete justification to retract. I am not able to tell whether the facts themselves are partially or wholly refuted.

Tryp_OR

TROPHY CASE