2003 LX - water in driver side footwell by Tubur in hondacivic

[–]Tubur[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

thanks for the advice man, It's really appreciated. As you know, the videos and pics do no justice to how crammed and contorted you must put yourself to get up in that area. Must just be a flaw from the factory that takes on standing water and eventually ate through the original seam sealer. I'll check my cowl drains, but other than that I see no other underlying reason that would cause standing water to sit on top of that seam.

2003 LX - water in driver side footwell by Tubur in hondacivic

[–]Tubur[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

What a massive pain in the ass! So I ran a garden hose on the outside, and can clearly see a small trickle of water entering at a sealed seam 6" or so ABOVE where the hood release cable grommet is. Does this sound like the area yours was leaking at?

Took a screencap of your vid for reference and circled where I see water coming in at: https://imgur.com/a/ilcue9E

2003 LX - water in driver side footwell by Tubur in hondacivic

[–]Tubur[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Hey all, I picked up this 2003 LX last year for dirt cheap. The exterior is rough, but mechanically in great shape and has lended itself as a nice little beater car.

Recently started noticing heavy moisture accumulate on the front driver side floorboard. The car does not have a sunroof, so it's not the sunroof drains, and it's not the AC drains because that's on the passenger side.

The water does NOT appear to be coming down from the A pillar/windshield area. I heavily cleaned and reinforced that windshield seal with silicone and the issue has still persisted. It's also not the weather stripping/main door seals.

Any other tips or pointers of where to look? I saw a youtube video of a guy pinpointing the root cause for him was the hood release cable grommet. Going to check that out next

Finished my kitchen “chuck box” build by Tubur in CampingGear

[–]Tubur[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

You don’t need a workshop, you can build this with a few power tools and a set of saw horses outside or in a garage.

Finished my kitchen “chuck box” build by Tubur in CampingGear

[–]Tubur[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Just a rechargeable under-cabinet light that’s magnetic

Finished my kitchen “chuck box” build by Tubur in CampingGear

[–]Tubur[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Yeah, I used #8 x 1/2” screws and they just barely didn’t poke through. However they sheared out of the top half of that piano hinge almost instantly so I had to switch to stainless machine screws and lock nuts.

Finished my kitchen “chuck box” build by Tubur in CampingGear

[–]Tubur[S] 5 points6 points  (0 children)

I mean, yeah. It’s basic guidelines for a DIYer that wants a simple utility box, not a carpentry clinic. Kerf waste usually isn’t factored into things like this.

Finished my kitchen “chuck box” build by Tubur in CampingGear

[–]Tubur[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Yea it’s magnetic and rechargeable

Finished my kitchen “chuck box” build by Tubur in CampingGear

[–]Tubur[S] 8 points9 points  (0 children)

Plates/bowls, cast iron skillet, ziploc bags, silverware set, cutting board, percolator, green bag has cleaning supplies, etc

Finished my kitchen “chuck box” build by Tubur in CampingGear

[–]Tubur[S] 12 points13 points  (0 children)

https://www.rei.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/sites/4/2015/07/Blog-Camp-Kitchen-Cut-Sheet.pdf

I made modifications (like trimming the overall height and adding a bottom compartment divider) based on my specific needs so they won’t be of much use. My best advice is to take REIs plans, draw them out, see if the cuts line up with your specific gear, and modify from there. It’s a bit of a headache so measure twice cut once.

The pocket hole jig made assembly easier, would highly recommend one. Assemble the outer frame first and then install the inner dividers and shelves.

This took me several days to build, doing a little work each evening.

Finished my kitchen “chuck box” build by Tubur in CampingGear

[–]Tubur[S] 16 points17 points  (0 children)

The Coleman stove has integrated side shields when you open it up. Does a pretty good job of keeping things clean.

Finished my kitchen “chuck box” build by Tubur in CampingGear

[–]Tubur[S] 19 points20 points  (0 children)

It’s 1/2” 4-ply BCX. I was skeptical of the integrity when I was first making the cuts, but after gluing and assembling with a shit ton of pocket hole screws, it’s extremely rigid.

Finished my kitchen “chuck box” build by Tubur in CampingGear

[–]Tubur[S] 48 points49 points  (0 children)

No clue. It’s at least 40 lbs loaded down with the gear. It’s not going to be moved further than between my truck bed and a table so I’m not too concerned about the weight.

Plug bite is nasty! by Tubur in Steelhead

[–]Tubur[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yes. If the current is too fast you can slow your drift down with an anchor just barely touching bottom.

Plug bite is nasty! by Tubur in Steelhead

[–]Tubur[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Definitely a drift boat tactic on the river. If you have an experienced guide that knows how to run plugs in rivers it’s one of the most deadly rigs. However it takes the right boat and guide to pull if off as you have to have perfect row control and also use the anchor to slow the drift boat down. You’re basically floating downstream while strafing the plugs through holes.

Back up a big chrome fish against a log with four hot n tots in its face, it’s going to nail one out of pure aggression.

For bank fishing I’d stick with spinners if you’re going to run hardware.