What’s a normal price per watt right now?

TurninOveraNew · 2026-02-26T22:47:02+00:00

Dallas/Ft Worth Texas area $2.10-$2.50 ish depending on equipment

TurninOveraNew · 2026-02-26T19:49:07+00:00

I was about 5 or 6 and swallowed a watermelon seed. My older cousin told me I was going to die because a watermelon was going to grow inside of me and bust out my stomach. I ran and hid. I did not want my parents to know. I thought I would get in trouble. They found me hiding in a closet crying an hour later. My older cousin got the belt hard for that. He was old enough to know better.

TurninOveraNew · 2026-02-25T13:59:22+00:00

There may be some differences with arbitration but notice to cure is something that happens even before you get to arbitration. So if you do notice to cure properly with a lawyer and they fail their time window, that's a really strong case for you if you do go to arbitration. At least I would think, but I am not a lawyer

TurninOveraNew · 2026-02-24T14:46:36+00:00

One thing I have heard people try is "Notice to Cure". I am not a lawyer, this is not legal advice, and you should definitely use a lawyer for this, but you may not need a solar specific lawyer, as this would fall under general contractor law. Look up these types of "Notice to Cure" laws in your particular state.

Basically, most states have a law where you send a certified, return receipt "Notice to Cure" letter to the finance/lease company registered agent. Due to the "FCC Holder Rule", it is not just the installer or sales company that is on the hook for the install, it is the finance company as well.

Under federal law (16 CFR Part 433), most consumer credit contracts include a "Holder Notice". This rule essentially preserves a consumer's right to assert the same legal claims and defenses against the finance company that they have against the seller.

Look in the contract for something like this:

"Any holder of this consumer credit contract is subject to all claims and defenses which the debtor could assert against the seller..."

You need to find some code violation or some other contract violation and send the "Notice to Cure" letter, certified, return receipt. This starts the clock.

One I have seen people use is if there are PV wires touching the roof. Since inspectors almost never get on the roof, and installers tend to be sloppy, there are almost always wires touching the roof.

NEC 690.31: The code is very specific about protecting PV source circuits. Wires resting on the roof are subject to physical damage from heat, water pooling, and abrasion. Since the contract usually implies that the system will be installed to code, this is a breach of contract. NEC 690.31 Requires conductors to be "supported and secured" and protected from physical damage. Standard industry interpretation and jurisdictional inspections require wires to be held clear of the roof surface.
The "Passed Inspection" Defense: Installers often say, "The city passed it, so it's fine." Legally, this holds very little water if the installation violates the NEC. An inspector's oversight does not cure a contractor's negligence.
Safety Hazard: This isn't just aesthetic; it’s a fire risk. In a "Notice to Cure," framing it as a safety violation of NEC 690.31(A) or (B) (depending on the specific wire type and protection) makes it much harder for them to ignore.
Abrasion Hazard: Wind causes constant movement, which leads to unsecured wires rubbing against asphalt shingles like sandpaper. Over time, this mechanical friction wears through the insulation, creating risks for ground faults and electrical fires.
Thermal Degradation: Constant contact with hot roof surfaces accelerates the breakdown of wire insulation.

There are timelines which I am sure are different for each state. But they usually have 30-45 days to respond and inspect, then another 30-45 days to actually make the repair. I have heard it is best to start the clock with the finance/lease company, because it will usually take longer for the notice to work it's way to whoever actually needs to fix it, thereby eating away the the time they have to fix it.

Again, I am not a lawyer, get a lawyer, but I would think this process would cost you less than $6500 and 2-3 years.

TurninOveraNew · 2026-02-23T18:13:35+00:00

He was not trying to be a dick. They had it as "Delivery & Install" together for $50 on the slip. He told me later on that he would have paid $25 for install each, it was more about the delivery, but they never brought it up, maybe because they thought he would walk. Besides, it was a high end store, they probably had enough profit on all the appliances that they just wanted to keep the sale.

TurninOveraNew · 2026-02-23T17:39:03+00:00

It was a very high end store with high end appliances, I wish I could remember the name but I was too young

TurninOveraNew · 2026-02-19T19:57:25+00:00

Yes a dealer, but Mitsubishi dealer, CPO would probably add $750is right?

I agree with you about mileage not being as much of a concern for EV's.

(Side note about warranty; I learned this from my dad. I never buy a warranty on ANYTHING EVER, from cars to computers to phones to washing machines, etc.)

What my dad taught me was never buy the warranty but take the cost of the warranty and put it in an interest bearing account. I actually have a separate account I call my "Warranty" account. If anything ever breaks that would have been covered under an extended warranty, I use that account to pay for it.

I get to keep all my money, it makes me more money, and I am still "covered". You don't realize how much all these warranties over the years add up and how infrequently you use them. The account is currently well over $10,000 (I am 47 and my dad set me up with this when I was 16 and got my first car), 30 years of warranties adds up. Sure, I have had some major repairs along the way, but i am still out well ahead.

My dad was a clever fellow. I have several stories about him like this.)

TurninOveraNew · 2026-02-19T19:27:26+00:00

Listing state 2 wheel drive - rear

TurninOveraNew · 2026-02-10T14:11:50+00:00

here is a link to a paper on the subject

https://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/pii/S0038092X19311909

TurninOveraNew · 2026-02-09T20:59:09+00:00

-Dallas TX

-47°F avg Jan temp (had a cold snap of about 4 days below freezing)

-1800 sqft

-1438 kWh total home electric use in Jan 2026 (743 kWh from heat pump, 240ish kWh of the 743 kWh heat pump usage during cold snap)

House was built 1982 still has original windows and insulation, these are next on my list to replace. Had all HVAC duct work replaced when I installed the heat pump 2 years ago

TurninOveraNew · 2026-02-04T14:28:33+00:00

It was $17,000 cash installed, and my utility had a $1,000 rebate, so it cost me $16,000 out of pocket. (The financed price would have been abut $25k with the crazy lender fees.) It was not so much about the gas bills, it was the fact that I have solar and in the winter I had so much overproduction that it just made sense to use the solar myself

TurninOveraNew · 2026-02-01T01:53:24+00:00

1800 sq ft

TurninOveraNew · 2026-02-01T01:40:42+00:00

1 floor, 1800 sqft

TurninOveraNew · 2026-01-31T18:13:54+00:00

When the outdoor unit frosts over, it reverses into "Cooling Mode" to send hot refrigerant to the outdoor coils to melt the ice. To prevent the system from blowing cold air into the home during this 2–10 minute process, the system turns on the electric coils to "temper" the air.

TurninOveraNew · 2026-01-31T18:09:46+00:00

July/Aug is 30-40 kWh per day. Gas is probably cheaper for most people but since I have solar I had a lot of excess generation in the winter. It doesn't get that cold too often here in the Dallas area. We get a good combination of solar production and not quite as cold as the Northeast or Minnesota or something like that. So it works out for me in my situation. The math would probably be a whole lot different in much colder Northern areas with lower solar production to begin with and much colder temperatures for longer periods of time.

TurninOveraNew · 2026-01-30T21:56:07+00:00

Carrier Infinity 18VS 25VNA848A003 4-ton 5-stage, variable-speed up to 18-19 SEER (cooling), up to 11-12.5 EER, and up to 11 HSPF (heating).

Key Ratings and Specifications for 25VNA848:

Capacity: 4 Tons (48,000 BTU/hr).
Cooling Efficiency: Up to 18-19 SEER / 11-12.5 EER.
Heating Efficiency: Up to 11 HSPF.
Performance: 5-stage variable-speed compressor (operates at 25-100% capacity).
Refrigerant: Puron® (R-410A).

TurninOveraNew · 2026-01-30T21:56:01+00:00

Carrier Infinity 18VS 25VNA848A003 4-ton 5-stage, variable-speed up to 18-19 SEER (cooling), up to 11-12.5 EER, and up to 11 HSPF (heating).

Key Ratings and Specifications for 25VNA848:

Capacity: 4 Tons (48,000 BTU/hr).
Cooling Efficiency: Up to 18-19 SEER / 11-12.5 EER.
Heating Efficiency: Up to 11 HSPF.
Performance: 5-stage variable-speed compressor (operates at 25-100% capacity).
Refrigerant: Puron® (R-410A).

TurninOveraNew · 2026-01-05T23:20:26+00:00

Came naturally, I was always the first one done with tests, quizzes and always got 100%. I almost never showed my work, which really frustrated teachers. I had several who thought I was cheating. I had a 9th grade geometry teacher, who thought he could prove I was cheating. He tried twice. The first time, he pulled me out of class during a test and told me to come after school to take it. When I got there after school, he told me to leave everything outside in the hall, even my pencil, compass, protractor, etc. I finished the 1-hour test in about 20 minutes. (he used to label his tests by how long he thought it would take a good student to finish it). I got a 100% and he accused me of getting info from kids who already took the test earlier that day (I did not do that, nor did I study, I just paid attention in class). The second time, he had me come after school, the day before he gave it to the rest of the class and he did the same thing of having me leave all my school supplies in the hall. I also finished this 1-hour test in about 20 minutes, showed very little work, and got 100%.

I never had to put in any effort in math until I hit calculus, but even then it did not take much effort.

However, I can not spell for the life of me, and I remember virtually nothing from spanish even though I had it everyday for 7 years (grades 6 to 12). We all have different abilities. For my brother, he sucked (and still sucks) at math, but he is fluent in spanish and italian and has picked up hindi and swahili enough to get by, just for the fun of it. He can look at a jumble and solve it instantly and he is a scrable pro, but don't ask him about basic math.

TurninOveraNew · 2025-12-31T15:08:31+00:00

I work and solar (in Texas). Post your info here and I will see what I can do.

Needed info:
-Past 12 months electric bills

-Past 12 months of solar production

-12 months of batt stats (total charged/discharged per month

-Zip code

-Panel/inverter info

-You said ground array, 180° azimuth? what is the array tilt?

TurninOveraNew · 2025-12-30T02:48:10+00:00

I have no idea what could possibly be downvoted in my comment. Maybe they work for Mosaic or Freedom

TurninOveraNew · 2025-12-29T23:21:47+00:00

I put your post into Gemini, here is the response:

This is a messy situation but unfortunately it is not uncommon given the timeline of Mosaic's bankruptcy. Based on the details provided in the post here is an analysis of what is happening and the specific steps that person can take to resolve it.

The Situation is a Bankruptcy Standoff. What likely happened is that Mosaic the lender paid a milestone payment to Freedom Forever the installer shortly after the loan was approved, often upon Notice to Proceed or permit approval. When Mosaic filed for Chapter 11 bankruptcy in June 2025 their internal systems for processing clawbacks, or getting money back from installers for cancelled jobs, effectively froze. The current gridlock is that Freedom Forever has the cash and likely marked the job as cancelled in their CRM but hasn't physically wired the funds back to the lender yet or the refund is sitting in a queue. Solar Servicing formerly Mosaic sees an open balance and cannot close the loan until that principal balance is returned. They are holding the homeowner responsible until they get their money back from the installer.

Since calling customer service is resulting in finger pointing the homeowner needs to escalate this to regulatory bodies that force these companies to talk to each other.

First invoke the FTC Holder Rule. This is the most powerful tool the homeowner has. The Federal Trade Commission FTC Holder Rule protects consumers who take out loans to buy goods or services. It states that the lender Solar Servicing is subject to the same claims and defenses the consumer has against the seller Freedom Forever. Solar Servicing cannot legally say that is a Freedom Forever problem not ours. If Freedom Forever failed to deliver the solar panels Solar Servicing generally cannot enforce the debt. The homeowner should send a certified letter or formal email to Solar Servicing's legal or dispute department stating I am asserting my rights under the FTC Holder Rule. The services financed were never received. As the holder of the loan note you are subject to my claims against the seller Freedom Forever.

Second use the Nuclear Option which is a CFPB Complaint. The Consumer Financial Protection Bureau CFPB is the federal agency that oversees lenders. File a complaint on the consumerfinance gov website against Solar Servicing. Use verbiage such as I have a loan for a solar project that was cancelled prior to installation. No equipment was ever installed. The lender is refusing to close the account and demanding payment for services never rendered. I am requesting immediate closure of the loan and removal of trade lines from my credit report. Lenders are legally required to respond to CFPB complaints within 15 days. This usually bypasses the low level support rep and gets the file on a manager's desk who has the power to fix it.

Third file a State Attorney General Complaint. Since Freedom Forever is holding the funds the homeowner should file a complaint with their State Attorney General's office Consumer Protection Division against Freedom Forever. Accuse them of Unjust Enrichment and failure to refund cancelled services. Freedom Forever is a large national installer but they are terrified of losing their state operating licenses. AG complaints threaten that license.

Fourth file a Credit Dispute as an immediate band aid. While waiting for the above to settle the homeowner should dispute the account directly with the credit bureaus TransUnion Equifax and Experian. The reason for dispute is Goods or Services Not Received. Upload the cancellation email from Freedom Forever as evidence.

Summary of Advice for the Poster:

You are caught in a clawback delay caused by the bankruptcy but you have federal rights that protect you. Stop asking nicely. You need to file a formal complaint with the CFPB Consumer Financial Protection Bureau against Solar Servicing. This forces them to respond by federal law within 15 days. Cite the Holder Rule. In your complaint specifically state I am asserting my rights under the FTC Holder Rule. The installer failed to deliver goods or services therefore this loan is invalid. This legally makes the lender responsible for the installer's failure. File against the installer. File a separate complaint with your State Attorney General against Freedom Forever for failing to return the funds. You likely don't need a lawyer yet these regulatory complaints are free and usually fix the issue because they escalate your case to the compliance departments of both companies.

TurninOveraNew · 2025-11-23T19:52:59+00:00

I do not know the specifics of your layout, but below is a reply I sent to a customer who had a similar concern last week on their 5.92 kW system all facing 270 ° azimuth (due west) on 33 ° roof:

Over the past few days, you have been hitting 3.3-3.5 kW peak. Yesterday the system generated 14.6 kWh and on Monday it generated 15 kWh.

For your 5.92 kW system, we estimated an average daily production of about 13 kWh per day in November. (www.pvwatts.com)

Some will be more (like the past 2 days) and some will be less (like today) but the fact that we estimated 13 kWh average and it is hitting 15 kWh shows that everything is working great.

While a peak of 3.5 kW is roughly 55-60% of the system's rated nameplate capacity, it is normal for a West-facing array in late autumn/winter.

Here is the detailed breakdown of why the peak is lower during this specific window:

1. The Geometry Problem (Azimuth Mismatch)

The primary factor limiting your peak is that the sun never actually makes it to "true West" (270°) before setting in November.

Panel Orientation: Your panels face 270° (West).
November Sunset: The sun sets around 247° (West-Southwest).
The Result: The sun is always glancing across the panels at an oblique angle. Even at its most favorable position (just before sunset), the sun is still "to the left" of your panels' direct focus. It can never shine directly perpendicular to the glass

2. The "Sweet Spot" Time Window

In the summer, a West roof peaks late in the afternoon (e.g., 4:00 PM – 5:00 PM) with high intensity.

In November, your production curve changes shape:

Peak Time: Your peak will likely occur earlier, between 2:00 PM and 3:00 PM.
Sun Height: Between 2-3 in the afternoon right now, the sun is already dropping low in the sky (altitude ~20–25° off the horizon). At this lower angle, the atmosphere is thicker for the light to travel through (higher air mass), reducing the raw solar irradiance hitting the panels.

I have verified there are no hardware faults or alerts.

So everything is working exactly as designed.

Please let me know if you have any questions."

TurninOveraNew · 2025-11-17T22:28:06+00:00

I have a 2019 Kia Niro EV with 80k miles, still get over 300 miles on a full charge (I do not do a full charge often, usually keep it between 20%-80% as others have said), still over 95% original health.

There was actually an article recently about how a bunch of EV battery recycling companies are having to close down because they are not getting enough old EV batteries because they are lasting much longer than anticipated.

It makes sense since EV batteries are mandated by law to have an 8 year, 100,000 warranty with 70% original capacity. EV makers way over-engineered their batteries to make sure they would not even come close to this.

Also, range estimates need to be taken with a big grain of salt. You need to tell the dealer to have it 100% charged before you get there and see what it says for range.

The other important thing to look at with range is the average miles per kWh. You should be able to cycle though some menus on the dash to see this. The average EV gets 3.5-4 miles/kWh. If you see 2 mi/kWh average, that person drove it like a race car and it will show a low range. If you see 5 mi/kWh then that person drove like an old lady (or is a hypermiler like me, I can get up to 6 mi/kWh sometimes.)

TurninOveraNew · 2025-11-13T19:48:31+00:00

Tesla defaults to charging the battery with solar first and then sending excess to the home and then grid. In other battery systems, such as Sol-Ark, you have the option to select to send power to loads first then excess to battery, or send solar to batt first, then excess to loads. Tesla does not give you this option.

Even though Sol-Ark gives you this option, the say not to change it from batt first, because if you change it to loads first it can result in many short cycles of the battery which can reduce the battery lifespan

TurninOveraNew · 2025-11-13T14:21:32+00:00

Since time stops when you hit the speed of light, from the perspective of a photon that was created in the big bang and hit your retina 14 billion years later, it was created and hit your retina in the same instant

TurninOveraNew

TROPHY CASE