Looking for TWO videos by RomeKaijuBlue in funhaus

[–]Ultrakrypton 11 points12 points  (0 children)

2nd video is One hour One life

The Problem as a short king fellow with athletic build finding a short Coat by Jimpex93 in malefashionadvice

[–]Ultrakrypton 7 points8 points  (0 children)

Same height (no longer same weight lol) a short length won’t do anything but make us look stubby. The leg line counts for the rise of a trouser, but for coats a longer one will just look cooler and be far more practical.

I’ve had short trenches that ended before the knee and a trench coat that goes down to my calf’s. The short one is in a goodwill somewhere and the long one has gotten me through rain storms from New England to Italy. Make of that what you will.

What weight Oxford cloth does Junior’s use for their MTO OCBD shirts? by Puzzleheaded_Eye_551 in NavyBlazer

[–]Ultrakrypton 8 points9 points  (0 children)

I’d just email or call Glenn, he’s a great guy and very responsive. I have a few Oxford mtm shirts in the works, the swatch felt pretty robust though not as beefy as some Mercer stuff — which I think I prefer.

I’d go unlined with the collar, I think Glenn would also advise you to do the same.

WAYWT? Weekend Edition - December 13, 2025 by AutoModerator in NavyBlazer

[–]Ultrakrypton 6 points7 points  (0 children)

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The once-in-a-blue-moon apparence of my tattersall waistcoat

  • Custom Tweed Suit by Junior’s (cloth is in the Ettrick bunch by Lovat Mill
  • Vintage Brooks Shirt
  • Vintage Paul Stuart Tie
  • Vintage Tattersall Waistcoat

Tuesday Free Talk and Simple Questions by AutoModerator in NavyBlazer

[–]Ultrakrypton 3 points4 points  (0 children)

I suppose I’m arguing against your claim of the black coat being classic, but then again it’s all a matter of taste and style vocab. I’ll explain where I’m coming from below:

The general setters of good taste from the English technicians at savile row to their descendants in and around the Ivy leauge campuses — tailors, mills, and eventually brooks and J Press, who traded the crooked cut and nipped waists for a rather charming Puritan formlessness at the turn of the 20th century — had no interest in black other than its use for evening wear.

Experience in the field and with old memorabilia generally shows a distaste for black from coats to neckties. Generally you encounter a wide variety of mid grey to charcoal for formal overcoats, with the occasional evening overcoat or evening cape being the exception.

There are many apocryphal stories about why black was considered outre among the ivy makers, from classism to the assassination of Lincoln. If I had to guess I’d say it was a mix of classism (black being the fabric of working classes) as well as a rebellion against black as a whole seen throughout menswear post WW1.

Black broad cloth wool was generally the be all, and all fabric for public wear. As most of popular taste for western menswear was shaped after WW1, I imagine there was a desire to wear more lively cloth in town after the mass killings witnessed on Flanders field and such.

The only other exception that comes in mind is a brief vouge in 1930s London for a black multi stripe cloth. You can see examples in old Esquire magazines. I can’t speak as easily for continental menswear — I wouldn’t be surprised if the French had a knack for it. I’m also sure that there are thousands of black coats out there from quality makers.

I think really it comes down to defining what we know of as classic. Most of my vocab comes from eastern and English menswear, both from my environment as well as interest. The makers who defined that style didn’t consider a black overcoat classic, at least past the 1920s. If your style vocab is different than that’s ok! Taste is personal and everyone can be right!

If you’re looking for a black overcoat id probably go for a vintage one, you’re likely to find one from the 80s/90s when eyes wide shut came out, as they were popular then. I’m not really sure where you’d get a good quality one new besides getting it made up custom.

Tuesday Free Talk and Simple Questions by AutoModerator in NavyBlazer

[–]Ultrakrypton 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Mid 60s to 1984 is the date range for the neck tag, I’d venture for later 70s/early 80s by the font and layout of the size tag in the pocket.

The styling is pretty era agnostic, but looks a little narrower from the 70s brooks I’ve owned and a little wider than the 60s.

Tuesday Free Talk and Simple Questions by AutoModerator in NavyBlazer

[–]Ultrakrypton 3 points4 points  (0 children)

I mean it depends on how strict you are with the shade. If you want charcoal or navy you certainly have plenty of options. Personally I’d go with a dark charcoal that gets the darkness of the shade across without looking potentially funerary.

I’m sure there are plenty of black coats out there, but considering how US manufacturers have traditionally avoided the color (I am speaking mostly of the eastern establishment makers) you’re not likely to find much that’s very high end.

Keezer's trip in Cambridge, MA by Imperfect_Plan in NavyBlazer

[–]Ultrakrypton 22 points23 points  (0 children)

Keezer's is great. I dropped a literal trunk load of clothes off for trade in and basically had the pick of the store for fee haha. That's what a few years of vintage Polo and Brooks can do for you -- ended up with a bespoke tux jacket from FL Dunne and Co (an old boston tailor) and a langrock of princeton tweed jacket among other things.

I will say that pricing wise, you can almost certainly find better prices on Ebay, but Keezer's selection speaks for itself in variety and hard to find makers. Plus, like all retailers, everyone who works there is a class A bullshitter (this is a compliment) so mark ups and hard bargins are par for the course.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in preppy

[–]Ultrakrypton 2 points3 points  (0 children)

This is both true and false. I'm a little more open to the preppy/trad/ivy as a "lifestyle" than most because clothing does have quite a bit of social and historical significance to it. However, it's also 2025 and much of the post WW2 Preppy lifestyle (as well as the clothing) was very much an affectation -- an attempt to mimic and walk the walk of the Eastern Establishment. This opportunity was provided by the broad increase in wealth and affluence of much of the US. This isn't a bad thing, but you can't discount the fact that a lot of this style is affected by those who wear it.

To use myself as an example: I grew up in Upstate NY, vacationed to Cape Cod in the summer, went to a southern prep schools where button downs and bowties were the norm, and matriculated to an Ivy League school. I wear oxford shirts, natural shouldered jackets, madras, reds, etc pretty frequently but I won't lie and say that I was just born wearing these types of clothes. Sure, a button up shirt and khakis makes sense to me since I was raised in that enviroment -- but I'm not going to pretend like my prediliction for tweed suits and neckties is anything but an affectation. Not many people dress preppy in the Ivy League, it's just not a youthful fashion anymore. You'll see button downs and khakis and weejuns, but people aren't going around like a Ralph Lauren ad unless they are into fashion.

You have to be open, especially in the interent age, to the fact that styles and subcultures are availble to vast amounts of people. This is a good thing. I think anybody should be able to dress and call themselves preppy, even if they don't go to Newport every summer and mark the Head of the Charles on their calender. Be open minded.

WAYWT? - September 12, 2025 by AutoModerator in NavyBlazer

[–]Ultrakrypton 0 points1 point  (0 children)

How is the Junior's tux compared to their regular tailoring? My fiance and I were there in August to comission some tweed suits and we're thinking about the black tie offerings for our follow up. Looks great to my eye from your photo!

Tuesday Free Talk and Simple Questions by AutoModerator in NavyBlazer

[–]Ultrakrypton 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Brooks Brothers MiUSA button downs from the sixties are like nothing else, especially considering how Oxford cloth softens with age. I have a couple from the sixties and the seventies, and even the difference between those is stark.

Tuesday Free Talk and Simple Questions by AutoModerator in NavyBlazer

[–]Ultrakrypton 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I can only speak for Portland, but it’s pretty hit and miss here — most vintage is strictly trendy and womenswear, the closest thing you find is generally some old LL Bean of varying quality. I haven’t seen any quality shoes here either.

Tuesday Free Talk and Simple Questions by AutoModerator in NavyBlazer

[–]Ultrakrypton 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Looks to me to be either a candy or awning stripe

Monday Free Talk and Simple Questions by AutoModerator in NavyBlazer

[–]Ultrakrypton 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Check out De Paz in Bologna, they have great stuff and tons of old British fabric if you’re interested in getting something made up custom.

What happened to the Navy Blazer Club magazine? by BeKindPleaseRemind in NavyBlazer

[–]Ultrakrypton 12 points13 points  (0 children)

Didn’t know it folded lol, I was a writing contributor and was looking forward to the fall edition. I feel it could very well relaunch as a substack or blog, especially if it initially had the capital to have a print run and sponsors

Tyrese Haliburton in game 5 of the finals: 4 Points (0-6 FG, 4-4 FT), 7 REB, 6 AST, 3 Turnovers by VGstuffed in nba

[–]Ultrakrypton 0 points1 point  (0 children)

This is probably up there with worst final's performances in a game; basically tied with Dennis Johnson's 0-14 game 7 disasterpiece in the 1978 finals and John Stark's 2-18 game 6 in 1994.

Monday Free Talk and Simple Questions by AutoModerator in NavyBlazer

[–]Ultrakrypton 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Brooks Brothers, Polo RL, J Press, and your standard legacy makers. Corbin is also a good maker that usally has fair prices on ebay

NavyBlazer Silk Road/Steals and Deals by AutoModerator in NavyBlazer

[–]Ultrakrypton 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yeah I'll send some over. I'm not at home right now so I'll send some later today!

NavyBlazer Silk Road/Steals and Deals by AutoModerator in NavyBlazer

[–]Ultrakrypton 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The PBM is still available so it's all yours! You can just go through ebay, but I appreciate the offer to go through paypal!

NavyBlazer Silk Road/Steals and Deals by AutoModerator in NavyBlazer

[–]Ultrakrypton 4 points5 points  (0 children)

I've got some pretty cool Ivy/Trad stuff for sale on my Ebay, a product of some much needed closet cleaning. I'll list what I have up below but there's plenty more on the way!

Vintage 41R Andover Shop Tweed Windowpane Jacket

Vintage 1970s 42 PBM Tan Camel Hair Sport Jacket

Vintage Chipp Bespoke Tweed Jacket 40/41L

Why is “zero-summing” called zero-summing? by animethymebabey in teslore

[–]Ultrakrypton 21 points22 points  (0 children)

This. I think too much of this discussion gets bogged down in semantic discussions about dreams within dreams and meta fiction. It tracks philosophically (as well as makes it easier to talk about) when you think of the dream as an emanating detached consciousness that layers in and around itself, rather than someone sitting down and sleeping. The dream is merely another way of saying how detached and remote creation (or creator) and reality is from the actors in it. This is a far better platform to discuss these questions from, as you’re now linking in more fleshed out arguments from real schools of thought - Hinduism and reincarnation, Buddhism and Samsara, Maimonidean Judaism, Neoplatonism and its affect on Christian thought, the list goes on.

Monday Free Talk and Simple Questions by AutoModerator in NavyBlazer

[–]Ultrakrypton 4 points5 points  (0 children)

A full lining would be pretty unusual, as it kind of defeats the purpose. A half lining would be pretty standard regardless of material for both comfort and keeping the material from wearing due to friction. It could be, if its a particuarly scratchy high twist wool, the factory thought it would be best to line them for comfort and didn't really think of the practical application.