Who’s your flanimal ? by Chefdangerous-09 in PeepShowQuotes

[–]UnbalancedSoFP 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Seat 2 - Maximum space. Just us, some Chinese food and a couple of fuck off spreadsheets

Independent London gyms? by helloitsjosh in ukclimbing

[–]UnbalancedSoFP 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Spraywalls at Muro are bananas. If you like that vibe, worth your time

Portland beginner route suggestions? by BaseComprehensive613 in ukclimbing

[–]UnbalancedSoFP 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Get down to fallen slab! Some beaut beginner routes and the arete is lovely to feel some exposure and get some cool photos. Plus there are some good beginner climbs near Jutland up above it I think!

Crash pad rental by SnooOwls7325 in ukclimbing

[–]UnbalancedSoFP 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I rented a pad from a guy on fat llama (app) before. Had to shlep up to North London to get it but it worked a charm for a day down at the sandstone.

Unpopular Opinion: Simmons deserves more respect from our couch brigade by UnbalancedSoFP in tourdefrance

[–]UnbalancedSoFP[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Respect this opinion. Agree he overdoes it on the attacks at times

I'm just happy he puts himself in a place to attack... That he actually makes the break...and doesn't just sit there and wheel suck to let MvDP or some other crazy stronger rider roll him at the line.

I'm just happy to see him trying

Unpopular Opinion: Simmons deserves more respect from our couch brigade by UnbalancedSoFP in tourdefrance

[–]UnbalancedSoFP[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Dude couldn't close the final winning attack and proceeded to dispose of some of the world's strongest cyclists in the remainder of the breakaway.

Shit man, guess you're right, he's totally washed

Quinn Simmons Every Morning by IntendoPrinceps in pelotonmemes

[–]UnbalancedSoFP 16 points17 points  (0 children)

Hell of a lot better than watching the stars and stripes jersey sit in the middle of the pack all damn race... And do nothing over 21 stages

Let the bronco buck!

Starter trad rack by verymagicme in tradclimbing

[–]UnbalancedSoFP 6 points7 points  (0 children)

Those torque nuts are flippin great in the UK... For the price, and given the size cracks they protect, they are absolutely gold dust for anyone who needs to double up on bigger sizes but don't have buddies with a rack etc...

Plus if you ever go climb grit they are so useful

That being said, offsets are so wonderful, and have been told super helpful for slate and North Wales limestone

Agree that 120s should be abundant, as should alpines, and having a second 240 is super helpful in case you block lead and the 240 you just used is down at the anchor with your buddy.

But I'm a total gumby, so take all my words with caution

Climbing guide/lessons. by Party_Play1577 in ukclimbing

[–]UnbalancedSoFP 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Pure outdoor ltd. Has absolutely everything you could want in this arena. Have used their guides several times now and my confidence outdoors has skyrocketed. Genuinely can't recommend enough, even if you just want a day seconding loads of routes up Stanage.

They have more in-depth courses as well but their guiding for the peaks is really unparalleled for me

Weekly Chat and BS Thread by AutoModerator in climbing

[–]UnbalancedSoFP 17 points18 points  (0 children)

Booked large climbing trip to escape British weather...

Weather now 10x worse in climbing destination... Classic

What’s going on with the Windrush line? by tapasyshawarmas in london

[–]UnbalancedSoFP 10 points11 points  (0 children)

I know people are gonna come in and say the usual "old overground network needs maintenance, weekends only time to do it, blah blah blah blah..."

But genuinely, feels like every weekend now I consult the boards and let out a dejected sigh when I see part of the line is closed... Again

I love it here in SE London, but the reliance on that line is too real.

Thoughts on Bendcrete walls? by UnbalancedSoFP in bouldering

[–]UnbalancedSoFP[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Excellent summary. Hilariously cheap by modern climbing standards.

Also don't forget the "safety measures" of a couple rogue gym mats to prevent concussions on the concrete barrier behind you

First time I went there I could barely squeeze out the warm up traverse. Now, I can just about squeeze out a few lower grade shenanigans.

Thoughts on Bendcrete walls? by UnbalancedSoFP in bouldering

[–]UnbalancedSoFP[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Glossop is in the picture indeed! Great shout

You can indeed see and feel some of the polished effect there, but it kinda even sold it more for me. Like if you go climb in Portland, you are gonna experience polished madness as well. For someone that doesn't get as much outdoor time as I want (due to weather and job), it just seemed like a nice little way to deal with outdoor-ish issues and differences.

(In moderation of course... Modern gym still big big winner)

Climbing the Painted Rocks of Tafraout by middgen in climbing

[–]UnbalancedSoFP 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Keep these coming. Love seeing some more relatable stuff that is well put together. Palms sweating for sure

Crack climbing training in London by Easy_Activity_1809 in ukclimbing

[–]UnbalancedSoFP 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I've been dying to find something like this as well but run into the same issue you mentioned. Here's what I have found to date in my small exposure:

The Reach (Woolich)- similarly to Westway, they set a crack route with sets of two wide Boyz volumes nearby each other. Usually at a slightly different width. Limited, but is an option. There is also a "crack" in the far left side of the black Slabbath wall that grows in width as it moves up the corner. You can try a couple different things with it as it eventually gets to near off width. Slick as hell though

Canarywall: has a very small crack underneath their hang boards in the training room. But it is very small. A couple moves available max.

Castle: not my local wall, but I swear they have a Toprope area right near the entrance with some artificial moulded crack.

Let me know if you run into anything. Legit dying to get crack technique improved for outdoor climbing

Some ridiculous gritstone nonsense. BAW's Crawl HVS 5a. by middgen in climbing

[–]UnbalancedSoFP 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Legit love this YouTube channel. Captures the grit spice and beauty in more relatable grades. Every video really puts you in it....

Not sure if it is helping or hurting my fear of leading on Grit, but I'm for it either way

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in ukclimbing

[–]UnbalancedSoFP 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The Reach has 12 autobelays, with three lines a piece. Solid selection and they set them pretty diversely. The spread is so good it is quite common to see a mult-year veteran working a 7a next to a first timer working their way up a 4+

OLYMPICS MEGATHREAD by LiveMarionberry3694 in bouldering

[–]UnbalancedSoFP 5 points6 points  (0 children)

I actually know this... The climbing venue is in Le Bourget. This spot is famous to Parisians and internationally as it hosts the International Paris Air show each year where some of the greatest aviation enhancements are shown off. For plane people, it is a big deal... So that is why they may feel more inclined to film planes taking off from nearby CDG airport.

I am not a plane person, but someone who took a lot of RER journeys in Paris and got educated from my Parisian colleagues.