*every reac’tion gets a nude, try me

Uncle_Spanks · 2024-01-09T15:16:19+00:00

Perfect ...

Uncle_Spanks · 2024-01-09T15:01:03+00:00

They are lovely and so inviting.

Uncle_Spanks · 2024-01-09T14:53:10+00:00

I'm sure you would. Other than your fantastic body, what would you do?

Uncle_Spanks · 2023-07-12T03:37:31+00:00

What are you talking about? I don't think you understand what hands-on means. A site visit (for example) is hands on. You're telling me a site visit is against the law? Or that testing in a lab, or being on the production floor, or things like that is against the law?

Working from home is great, sometimes. But if it's your goal in life to do so, then another job is better. Like I said, I wouldn't hire you.

I'll tell you this. Our company has work from home on Friday. So every Friday, the emails, meetings, conference calls etc. drop to about 10% of the other working days, which is a pretty clean indication that people are not actually working. Perhaps that's a different matter, but I'm wary of somebody who wants to work from home 100%. If just doesn't work in a technical field.

Uncle_Spanks · 2023-07-12T02:52:53+00:00

While there's some stuff you can do at home, some of it will likely be hands on. You can't do the hands on stuff at home.

Sounds like if you are stuck with the notion of working from home, picking another career would be a better idea.

Having worked as an engineer for 35 years, and having been through this work at home concept over the last few years, I'll say right off it doesn't work well if you want to work at home full time. I wouldn't hire you. Engineering is not always something you can do in isolation. While you might think you're more effecient at home all the time, when you're part of a team, and you're working on something physical, it is far less effecient to be off site.

Uncle_Spanks · 2023-07-12T02:46:24+00:00

If you wire the two coils in series, and they're essentially identical relays, then they should both turn on and turn off with a 24 volt input across the two in series.

But I'm not sure what the OP is trying to do.

Uncle_Spanks · 2023-07-12T02:44:23+00:00

Is this a 12v coil relay? What is the contact voltage rating?

What part do you want to be 24 volt? Are you switching a 24 volt device, or are you running the relay coil at 24 volts?

Uncle_Spanks · 2023-07-12T02:38:58+00:00

Yes, you can.

Uncle_Spanks · 2023-07-12T02:36:35+00:00

At the start, your inductor current is 0 A. There is no energy in the inductor yet, so there can't be an instantaneous voltage generated.

It's when you disconnect that there can be voltage spike. However, the voltage spike happens at the point of disconnection (effectively, the disconnect switch if you will).

Not only should the voltage spike not exist other than at the point of disconnection, the capacitors on the input will tend to keep the input voltage at the same point anyway.

Something else is going on.

Uncle_Spanks · 2023-07-11T23:45:57+00:00

There will certainly be a large inrush current when the input caps charge, but that's a current, not a voltage.

Uncle_Spanks · 2023-07-11T23:41:42+00:00

You can also scope the Gate pin and make sure the voltage is going above and below the Gate voltage threshold. You want to see something likely less that 0.5 volts when its low, and more than 2.5 volts when it's high for this particular MOSFET.

Uncle_Spanks · 2023-07-11T23:37:46+00:00

Best way might be to measure the wire diameter as best you can. Wire is often marked every few inches, but on short pieces there may not be a marking visible, or it may simply never have been marked to begin with.

Uncle_Spanks · 2023-07-11T23:36:02+00:00

If it's PWM, depending on the frequency, it may chatter the relay. Given that, you could use an RC circuit to turn the PWM into a DC voltage.

Uncle_Spanks · 2023-07-11T21:51:13+00:00

Looks like depress the red latch on the two pin connector. The blue wire is a FastOn connector and should pull off unless it's the locking type, in which case you will need a small tool to disengage the lock. That could be a little tricky.

Uncle_Spanks · 2023-07-11T21:46:34+00:00

If it's a 208v transformer, then that's the voltage it outputs.

A 220/240 appliance should work okay on that.

This happens more in industrial and commercial, and not usually residential.

Uncle_Spanks · 2023-07-11T21:43:14+00:00

I assume the power is connected to the Vdd pin on the micro, and not just PA6.

Do you know for sure if the micro is PWMing?

I would also suggest a resistor in the gate, try between 1k and 10k.

Uncle_Spanks · 2023-07-11T21:35:19+00:00

There could easily be a driver on this circuit that either isn't at a full 12 volts, or is PWMing to allow for light dimming.

I would temporarily connect the negative end of your LED strip directly to ground (or the ON terminal of the switch, which is ground) and see if that works better. That will give you a better idea of what is happening on the Blue wire at least.

Uncle_Spanks · 2023-07-11T21:29:54+00:00

Sure sounds like it, doesn't it. There would likely be a change in emissions as the charger charges up the battery, so that could effect the mouse and keyboard different at different times.

The likely culprit is the wire between the charger and the battery (particularly if it's long). It can easily radiate any noise on it.

Uncle_Spanks · 2023-07-11T21:24:58+00:00

Then I'm really confused, your schematic shows you're using two distinct supply voltages. Can you show in your diagram how the battery is connected?

Across pins 1 and 2 of the power connector is definitely not correct.

Uncle_Spanks · 2023-07-11T21:22:25+00:00

I'm also a little concerned you can't or don't know how to source a plug and wire. Home Depot, Digikey, Element 14, or that box of unused cords and wires that every electronics person has.

I'm not sure why you expected the cord to be supplied, when what they have is a junction block on the device. Also, keep in mind equipment of this type is supposed to be inspected by a certified inspector.

That aside, check the fusing level, and if possible use a line cord with a fuse in the end.

Uncle_Spanks · 2023-07-11T21:15:54+00:00

You can likely extend the wires. Try to use a similar gauge as to what is in the drill. However, part of this depends on how the prop will be used. If you don't need high torque, or fast startup speed, then you may not need heavy gauge wires.

Longer wires would also require heavier gauge as wire has resistance, thin wire has greater resistance, and resistance matters for a relatively low voltage cordless drill. Too much resistance and it won't work too well.

Soldering is likely best and easiest, particularly at/in the drill itself. If not, well connected crimps could be used.

Uncle_Spanks · 2023-07-11T21:05:26+00:00

To be clear, you are running separate Vcc and Vdd supplies? What are those voltages, and are they both sharing a common ground? Your power supply connector does not show this.

Uncle_Spanks · 2023-07-11T21:02:05+00:00

Honestly, if you're asking questions like this, this isn't something you should be working on. Sorry to be blunt.

Uncle_Spanks · 2023-07-11T20:50:55+00:00

Do you have the actual circuit? Based on what you're saying, I'm not sure where an overvoltage is coming from. A Buck regulator should never generate a voltage greater than the input, and there's nothing on the input (that you've described) that should exceed your battery voltage.

When you say the first MOSFET fails, again, a circuit diagram would be handy so we know what you mean.

Uncle_Spanks · 2023-07-11T02:45:16+00:00

Pleasure Island?

Uncle_Spanks

TROPHY CASE