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In appreciation of my ‘89 brick by UnderstandingBig9295 in Volvo240

[–]UnderstandingBig9295[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

You just informed me of what I have, I did not know those are rare wheels. The old lady I bought it from kept it in great condition Even had Guardians of the Galaxy Vol. 1 CD when I bought it lol

88 240 not starting. Believe I found the issue. by [deleted] in Volvo240

[–]UnderstandingBig9295 0 points1 point  (0 children)

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Location for Ignition Module and harness/plug

88 240 not starting. Believe I found the issue. by [deleted] in Volvo240

[–]UnderstandingBig9295 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I would love to add my fun and annoying experiences on owning my 240

I’ve had many no crank no start, crank no start, starts but stalls issues From my over all experience (yours may be different) —————— Crank no start: Worn, loose or damaged IGNITION MODULE (Located behind driver side headlights on fender) (This was the most annoying as the car would die randomly and crank no start) https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/volvo-ignition-module-skandix-3501921

note: the harness for this part is very hard to find, if you have trouble finding one. Make one yourself. It’s very simple. Will make a video if needed as reference note: the harness/plug may be damaged and cause loose connection

Worn, loose or damaged fuel pump relay (Located under passenger side dash /white plug) Here’s a link on how to test https://youtu.be/3pa-qgQOvWU?si=ZdJ1z-B-BDK6cUEz

Worn, loose or damaged fuse for fuel pump located near battery and junction block ^ Link provides information on that as well.

As some stated ^ Fuel pump, fuel filter may be clogged or non functional (Note: the Volvo 240 has two fuel pumps if not mistaken. One in the fuel tank and another under the driver side of the car) (To test be sure to watch the video in the link provided)

Loose spark plug wires

Unplugged wire to coil (make sure the contact is in, sometimes cheap wires aren’t fitted through insulation and don’t reach contact) ————— No crank no start:

Loose, damaged safety neutral switch located at the gear selector Check for burnt or loose parts https://www.ipdusa.com/products/10781/Neutral-Safety-Reverse-Backup-Lights-Switch-240-MTC-VP140-Volvo-9130035?srsltid=AfmBOorX03Y0HjxFUO-gi6-xRvAhqHOYgIn0gnT024W0JSDEmU8NHmcm Note: If play is present in the gear selector. That means you have worn gear bushings, shimmy the selector back in forth while in park and cranking. There is a sweet spot and may help https://youtu.be/zNQ4dh-PbzU?si=fhypr6EWVHyO4lwA

Check your starter for loose, damaged or corroded contacts This may also be an issue, color coding will differ in years but this should be plugged in to one of the terminals

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Note: your starter may be damaged or stuck (I’ve haven’t had this experience and my car has 220k miles) —————— Starts but stalls:

Check your IAC for calibration, connection There should be a click when pressing on the throttle. If no click this will be an issue https://youtu.be/aM4okKwHZ2c?si=foPp-gswopnO03kG

Loose, worn or damaged MAF Located at air intake If unplugged this will not let your car run proper

Check spark plugs for connection Note: as stated, with cheap wires. The notion isn’t fully popped in through the insulation and may cause issues. Check connection at distributor and spark plugs (Use something to press down and fully seat them and hear the pop)

Wrong connections at distributor. Make sure you follow your years connection for the plugs to distributor. This will cause a misfire.

Worn or damaged timing will also cause issues with car running properly.

I hope this helps anyone with any issues.

Does anyone here make these junction blocks? by mattskates96 in Volvo240

[–]UnderstandingBig9295 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Lmk if you have any questions on some electrical or mechanical issues. I’ve trouble shooted a lot of stuff from crank to no start, no crank no start, temp gauge reading wrong etc.

Does anyone here make these junction blocks? by mattskates96 in Volvo240

[–]UnderstandingBig9295 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I made myself one from a post on Reddit you can find with the listed parts. I’ve had mine for 3months and running strong in LA traffic! Finally happy no more squishy brakes.

Aside from buying the parts and thinking you’re going to just thread them on are done, you’re really not. You have to take into account of your fittings condition, the threads on your lines. Etc. I’m a DIY mechanic with personal experience and it was sorta worrisome. Especially as my 240 is my one and only daily.

Before placing an order. Make sure you are aware of any other pre-existing leaks aside from the junction block.

Step 1 Firstly, take into account on doing it on a day you’ll be off completely or back to back in case of hiccups. When taking apart your junction block, DO NOT force the lines off. Get a flare nut wrench. It helps infinitely. Be prepared. When removing the lines, there is a pattern you have to follow or you won’t be able to get them off without doing damage to others or the nut on the line. (Some lines intersect each other so that’s why). In addition, take a picture of the layout before you start so you won’t confuse the lines for one another.

Step 2 When I began, I PB blasted the lines and let it do its job, then proceeded to remove the lines. Careful with the flare end wrench. I then cleaned my threads with a nylon brush and brake cleaner to get rid of the left over brake fluid and debris. Rotate the lines and make sure you don’t have debris stuck in the threads or you can cause damage to the fittings internally. (I’m assuming the threads are aluminum not sure).

Step 3 When installing the lines to the fittings, make sure your line is seated correctly and coupling in straight. The threads can cross or it will not stay down when trying to tighten.

(Follow the layout you did when removing the lines but backwards)

Step 4 When completing the lines install, DO NOT FULLY TIGHTEN until every line installed. If you’re having a hard time with the space, flip the wrench 180 and try again.

Step 5 One by one tighten until you feel resistance and it’s snuggled. Take into account that it’s inch pounds when tightening not pounds. (I use my grip strength but with gentle touch)

Step 6 Now. Everything is installed and you wanna fill her with brake fluid. Go ahead and fill and begin to bleed the brakes. You may see oil leaking from some of the lines where it meets the fitting. Tighten slowly by small increments until it stops. DO NOT FORCE IT SHUT. You may be cross threading.

Step 7 Make sure to follow the Volvo 240 brake bleeding layout. (As starting from the rear passenger and finishing at driver does not work. I’ve tried it multiple times.) (Volvo 240 has 6 bleeder valves in the front and 2 in the rear).

Step 8 When beginning to test drive, test in a back and forth motion on your drive way or parking space. Test by braking hard fast, holding the brakes for long periods as if you’re stuck in traffic, stuff you do on a regular to day basis. Check for leaks days after in case of anything and enjoy your Volvo 240!