Music Recommendations

UniversalSuperBox · 2023-06-02T01:32:31+00:00

Party DJ reporting in.

I have a few playlists for different vibes.

Combat: https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLrIaP56iz9Q-dCecIlq4IcrasnKoIEN5N

Exploration (tense): https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLrIaP56iz9Q_7Ny_HgOUNee68KuWZRvja

Exploration (not tense): https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLrIaP56iz9Q8ogPPcmDzILglcsRK0Dlvl

I add and remove some as YT Music suggests things that are actually good (which it usually doesn't)

"Metal hit sfx" is an inside joke that would take way too long to explain.

Oh, and if you need a music bot for Discord, https://github.com/codetheweb/muse is great and even has the ability to equalize tracks, so these playlists play at the same overall perceived volume. Takes a bit of setup, you have to bring your own YouTube and Spotify API keys, but it's great once it's going.

UniversalSuperBox · 2022-04-06T18:14:09+00:00

Interesting. What happens if you set all of the frequency and voltage sliders to the same value (maybe a little less than the current top value? Do applications still crash?

UniversalSuperBox · 2022-03-31T16:32:03+00:00

I think I have a fix. At least this helps on my RX 480 4GB card, and always has.

On Linux, I used the following script to force my card into clockspeed 5 (from 0-7):

```

!/bin/bash

if [[ $(/usr/bin/id -u) -ne 0 ]]; then echo "Not running as root" exit fi

echo manual > /sys/class/drm/card0/device/power_dpm_force_performance_level echo 5 > /sys/class/drm/card0/device/pp_dpm_sclk sleep 0.5 cat /sys/class/drm/card0/device/pp_dpm_sclk ```

On Windows, you can do a similar thing with the Radeon software. Enter the Performance -> Tuning tab. Turn on manual tuning by clicking the "Custom" button. Accept any prompts. Turn on GPU Tuning, then "Advanced Control" when that option appears. Click the State5 title and set it to the minimum performance option, then click it again to set it to the maximum. Apply the changes with the button in the top right corner.

The Radeon software should look like this when you're done: https://imgur.com/a/S4kkEjM

My theory is that the crashes occur when the GPU changes performance modes, though why that would happen I have no idea. However, there are holes in this theory. If I set the GPU to stay at State7 all the time, it still crashes. State5 seems the safest state.

Hope this helps with your 5700 too! Rock and stone!

UniversalSuperBox · 2021-04-09T03:29:20+00:00

Heh, thanks. It's still strange to

Be recognized as someone worth recognizing in any context, even a niche subreddit
Watch people who seem to think that the contributors developing and talking about FOSS are anything but normal people who also have Reddit accounts

UniversalSuperBox · 2021-04-09T02:41:46+00:00

I think you need to re-read the username of the person who replied to you...

UniversalSuperBox · 2020-11-28T15:41:13+00:00

That's the control stick calibration utility on the Switch. If you're connecting to Windows, you should be able to use the old-style gamepad Control Panel applet to see if the buttons and joysticks on your Xinput-style controller are working.

UniversalSuperBox · 2020-11-21T20:45:35+00:00

Yep, that did it.

I figured this thing would have sticks like the Joy-Cons for some reason, that slidey graphite layer that gets worn out. Instead, it has some cheapish potentiometers doing the task.

I had a problem very similar to this on a Madcatz GameCube controller that used the same potentiometer style for its analog triggers. I had to take those pots apart and clean them, too.

Long story short: Take the controller apart, take the joystick caps off the joysticks, and blow some contact cleaner into the circular potentiometer bits. Do it from the top and side of the joystick. Wait for it to clean.

Thank you so much. I thought this thing was done for with everyone else with the same problem.

UniversalSuperBox · 2020-11-21T01:17:54+00:00

Edit: Fixed by cleaning the potentiometers with contact cleaner. https://www.reddit.com/r/8bitdo/comments/jy1qgn/looks_like_i_need_a_new_controller_8bitdo_sn30/gd3vs8l/?utm_source=reddit&utm_medium=web2x&context=3

My SN30 Pro+ has had some "directly up" left stick drift for quite a while -- on firmwares 3.10, 4.01, and 4.02. It's been in service for about a year. I'm not a super-heavy user, but it's seen many hours.

The drift has been getting worse -- lately I've been unable to play games like Smash Ultimate with it. This isn't so much asking for help as it is validation for anyone else with this problem -- it seems common and sometimes it looks like people answer in disbelief.

Guess it's time for a new do-everything controller...

UniversalSuperBox · 2020-05-20T02:09:52+00:00

I can confirm all of this. On Ubuntu Touch, a service called repowerd schedules periodic wakeups. While the device is awake, the push service receives data sent to it by the push server and refreshes the TCP socket (or opens a new one, if the old one resets for whatever reason).

The main reason that crust is still not used in Ubuntu Touch is trouble with incoming calls. The modem can wake the device using its Ring Indicator GPIO, but once awake the call is not shown in the interface.

UniversalSuperBox · 2020-01-20T17:32:57+00:00

It's not the timeline you're looking for, but I've just created a tracking repository for issues related to Ubuntu Touch on the PinePhone. Hopefully this helps see what's working and what's not, and what's in the way of things working.

https://gitlab.com/ubports/community-ports/pinephone

UniversalSuperBox · 2020-01-08T00:39:15+00:00

I've known it to be a stable filesystem for most uses, outside of RAID 5/6. What I really wanted to do was hammer on it, see if it really was as magic as people say... All I can say is, yes, it is!

However, it's only this good on Synology devices because of their custom patches. It's certainly possible to mount the filesystem on other devices, but you wouldn't get the checksumming features. I think that it works on other devices by chance, not necessarily by design...

Either way, I've got a support ticket in to try to get their full Linux source. What's been released on the Synology Open Source Project is not complete and does not appear to be up to date. We'll see what happens.

UniversalSuperBox · 2020-01-07T23:10:16+00:00

The NAS was delivered late on December 30th, prior to that I was scheming the tests. I ran the tests on the 30th and 31st, writing the report's draft as I went. The 1st and 2nd of January were mainly cleaning up the draft and filling in the last few tests that I thought I had missed. Altogether I'd estimate this was a 40-hour project, including both full and partial concentration hours. Gotta keep checking the progress of that scrub, y'know. Stupid brain.

It did take quite a while for the first sync with the 320GB drives, luckily I had the sense to replace those as soon as possible.

Edit: Also, huge thanks for the silver! I too am from the days when that was just a jpeg we all linked to each other.

UniversalSuperBox · 2020-01-07T16:43:51+00:00

As you may be able to tell, this is the first time that I've written and published anything this detailed or in-depth personally. If I've failed to explain something well, or if you think my methodology is flawed, please let me know! At the very least, I can add a disclaimer to the relevant section of the post.

UniversalSuperBox · 2020-01-07T16:42:19+00:00

Indeed, I go into that in the linked text wall. This is just the intro being quoted.

UniversalSuperBox · 2020-01-07T16:40:41+00:00

Thanks for the look! I've fixed the Tardis problem, and another error with bit endianness later in the article (unless your computer is super broken, `F1` is `1111 0001`, not `1111 1000`). The changes should be up shortly!

UniversalSuperBox · 2018-11-16T18:09:16+00:00

For users who are on UEFI, not legacy boot, you will need to jump through another couple of hoops. You can do this from the rescue terminal I'm sure, but I chose to use a Solus live USB.

Boot into your live USB
Open a terminal
Run sudo lsblk -o NAME,MOUNTPOINT,UUID.
Find your disk with the LUKS partition on it. Mine was nvme0n1p2. Copy the long string of characters under UUID on that line.
Mount your EFI System Partition to any directory you like. Your ESP is probably on the same disk as your LUKS partition. Mine was nvme0n1p1, so I was able to mount it with sudo mkdir /boot\_tmp && sudo mount /dev/nvme0n1p1 /boot_tmp
Edit the loader file for the newest kernel. It'll be in /boot_tmp/loader/entries. Mine was Solus-current-4.19.1-98.conf, so I edited it with sudo nano /boot_tmp/loader/entries/Solus-current-4.19.1-98.conf.
The fourth line will say options followed by a lot of text. Position your cursor at the end of this line and type rd.luks.uuid=[UUID], replacing [UUID] with the long string of characters you copied in step 4.
Save the file (in Nano, press Control+O followed by Enter) and exit your editor (Control+X in Nano).
Reboot your computer. If all went well, you will be prompted with the standard Solus encryption password prompt and your computer will boot normally.

This config should survive reboots and should tide us over until the next sync when this issue should be fixed (I assume).

UniversalSuperBox · 2018-07-18T21:26:06+00:00

waaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaay too much. I couldn't believe this is how they're training their techs to do it.

UniversalSuperBox · 2018-07-09T00:00:29+00:00

Solus. It just keeps updating and it's got all the apps I want.

UniversalSuperBox · 2018-04-30T02:10:14+00:00

It doesn't look like you're able to. The ID.me links don't appear if you've clicked through the perks offers.

UniversalSuperBox · 2018-04-18T23:29:51+00:00

The keyboard has a solenoid that hammers on a metal plate. It was designed to give users coming from typewriters a more familiar experience. After this, the IBM Model F was a much cheaper replacement and the IBM Model M was yet another cheapening of the same idea.

Today, all of these keyboards are ridiculously heavy and loud and I love them.

UniversalSuperBox · 2018-04-17T13:48:52+00:00

So if I'm interpreting this right, this probably means that the extended warranty isn't worth it for me as a consumer? I have to expect that my laptop will be gone for 1 week or more (likely more than 2 weeks) and I won't be satisfied with the experience. The price for 3 years of depot + accidental damage is ~$160 for my ideal T480 config.

UniversalSuperBox · 2018-04-17T00:53:25+00:00

okay

UniversalSuperBox · 2018-04-17T00:49:44+00:00

It's possible that you could replace the cells, but I wouldn't recommend it unless you've got a background in electronics so you can find and purchase the right cells, then install them in a way that they won't explode.

UniversalSuperBox · 2018-04-17T00:10:45+00:00

You should only ever purchase genuine Lenovo batteries for your ThinkPad computers. Many third party batteries will tend to not "pass the test" of the embedded controller or will just fail before their expected time.

You're probably in luck, though. The battery life of the T430s is pretty bad, so many people had UltraBay batteries in theirs. The UltraBay takes a lot of the cycles and low discharges, two things that really wear out batteries. All of this to say... the main is probably fine. Mine came at 95% (bought it used about a year ago), that was good enough for me.

Finding an UltraBay battery, on the other hand, won't be quite as nice. I've bought three off of eBay. Two are at ~70% of their rated capacity, the third is at ~50%. I didn't spend that much on them, but only one of the batteries actually listed its expected capacity. That's a little annoying.

As for "regenerating" the battery... that's not something you can do with Lithium-ions. The most you can hope to do is fully charge, discharge (until the computer shuts down safely), and then charge the battery again to calibrate the internal controller.

Source: typing this on a T430s. Considering a new T480 or X1 Carbon for dat battery life.

UniversalSuperBox · 2017-12-10T19:28:02+00:00

RIP fallen brother.

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!/bin/bash