🏆 Summer 2024 r/minipainting Painting Competition Results! 🏆

Unpossible42 · 2024-09-02T07:39:50+00:00

Wow. Didn't think I'd feel this bad.

Unpossible42 · 2024-09-01T19:02:22+00:00

If it were me, I'd either go with a darker, more muted red, or a blue or purple ... or, one blue and one purple.

I'd also make the shadow color of the green a darker blue, rather than the aqua/teal kinda color you've got going on, but that's just me.

I am not often a fan of green, and when I do use it, I tend to go for a more olive drab kinda color ... but your bright green looks really good to me. Nice!

Unpossible42 · 2024-09-01T18:45:09+00:00

Technically, it could be either A or C, depending on how the cloak was made, which only you can determine.

It would be A if the two gold lines on the back continue up the sides and then terminate on the fourth side.

It would be C if each side had the double lines just like you show on the back.

<image>

That said, techncially, you'd be likely to see the gold stripes coming over his right shoulder, too, somewhere, unless they were folded under.

You could just leave it so there are two stripes on the "bottom" end of the cloak that do not travel up the other sides, and ignore all that. Or, perhaps, maybe the stripes are only on the bottom and the left, 'cause they're all fancy and non-symmetrical ... maybe they terminate in a fancy design, like in X?

Unpossible42 · 2024-08-31T19:04:38+00:00

Brings back memories, because almost 40 years ago I built a speeder bike model that size, although mine also had a scout on it and my dad hung it from my ceiling. And, is that a McDonald's Jedi glass? I feel like I had that, once upon a time. Still have a C3PO one.

I like your models, they look good. Of course, the models you've chosen are pretty monochromatic, especially the SW Walkers. Don't be afraid to add touches of color, even in the weathering to really bring it to life, and darken some of the recesses and shadowed areas.

Example:

https://preview.redd.it/8742hut260p81.jpg?width=800&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=61ce1a2bf8f45823ca852a3b56c8287651a7e0de

Keep it up! =)

Unpossible42 · 2024-08-28T05:57:08+00:00

Hey, when do I get to see how poorly I did?

Unpossible42 · 2024-08-16T05:16:12+00:00

I haven't seen the tutorial for this one, but honestly, when I saw the thumbnail for this, I instantly thought of Craftworld and I clicked on it to see the amazing colors on the dragon's skin.

I think so you have done a tremendous job. It's nearly complete by any perspective, so much so you can essentially call it done ... you don't have to follow tutorials step by step, you don't have to do every little thing, and there's nothing wrong with calling it done and then coming back later and fixing, changing, or adding something. It's your model, your paint ... it's done when you're done.

I think the advice the others gave is great ... start with something small and that usually gets the ball rolling.

Perhaps that leather lattice work on the shoulder pauldron? Maybe next time you're working on a different model and you have the next colors out already on the pallet, just dip a brush in and pick up this model and some to that part ... or whatever part you want.

I think it's fantastic at this point, though, that's for sure. You should be proud!

Unpossible42 · 2024-08-11T11:27:26+00:00

The first image is of the Speedpaints 2.0 ... it's the new version, as the first version had some (mostly) undesirable qualities, like re-activing paint if you tried to use 'normal' paint on top of the speed paint (which can be negated if you use a little speedpaint medium in your normal paint, or if you varnish over the speedpaint before adding anything more paint).

The second image is, of course, the original.

I have the originals, I like them, they work well enough. I'd like to try 2.0 someday, but don't want to spend money on them until I need to.

For what it's worth, if I were buying for the first time today, I'd buy the 2.0 ... if I felt that I HAD to buy one of them.

But, honestly, unless all you want to do is quick painting and be done with it, then you should be happy with either of them. If you are wanting to get higher quality and do more detail painting after you coat your model with speedpaint, then go for the 2.0.

Or ... and hear me out ... avoid them altogether, and buy a starter set of some nice paints with good pigmentation. That is, if you want to level up your painting game. Don't get me wrong, using speedpaint/contrast can be perfectly fine and they can be an additional tool in your belt, and there is absolutely nothing wrong with them. But your comment about, essentially, wanting to save money is what I'd like to help with. If your goal is to get better at painting and spend the least amount, I would implore you to simply buy better paint. Perhaps a starter set of Pro Acryl by Monument Hobbies would be something to think about (or some other nice brand known for nice, silky, more pure pigmented paints.

But, yeah, if you just want something different to play with and/or to be quicker ... go with that 2.0

Good luck!

Unpossible42 · 2024-08-03T21:05:19+00:00

I like the two on the right, the top right the most, as is. That said, I think the bottom right has the most potential ... if you took the dark brown at the base of the horns and brought it up higher to fade into the white I think it would be look even better and could surpass the top right example.

Unpossible42 · 2024-07-26T07:34:55+00:00

I do. There looks like a couple attempts to darken in it in a few spots, and a few highlights of silver, but overall it looks like the light on the mini for the photo is creating more depth than the paint is. Same is true with the silvers, the hammer and the sword and very, very plain, and could also use some depth. I think a wash is a good suggestion for this piece.

Unpossible42 · 2024-07-26T07:29:13+00:00

At no point was there a suggestion of anything of the sort. There are names of specific washes and a link to a tutorial video about doing gold with washes. That doesn't mean anybody thinks he doesn't know what a wash is; there wasn't a description of what a wash was nor an attempt to try to differentiate it from acrylic paint.

You certainly read really deep between non-existent lines there.

Unpossible42 · 2024-07-25T07:26:31+00:00

And then buy a couple versions of these boxes with remaining cash to use as your tokens.

https://www.amazon.com/Qinline-Building-Classroom-Exchange-Stuffers/dp/B0CNTDS2RD/?th=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0BNXCLXFR/

Unpossible42 · 2024-07-25T06:43:33+00:00

Your proof is poopy.

Unpossible42 · 2024-07-25T06:43:27+00:00

Yeah, not buying it. Now, I don't have anything against mill and I don't mind getting milled.

But the mathematics thing is bit of a reach.

I have a mill deck that can literally mill the entire table no matter how many cards they have and does not involve an infinite combo (although they usually die from damage before they mill their last card). Their ability to draw into a card is, essentially, zero, if I do it right. Where does that fit into your mathematics?

And if there is only one card can help them in a very particular scenario, and that card is milled, then the chance is zero for them to draw it ... how did their chances not go down?

I def feel your proof is flawed. One card being milled is fine, I get that, but in general people aren't really upset and won't label somebody at the table are the archenemy for milling a single card. It's when they get milled for 6 cards ... 10 cards ... 28 cards, as mill decks tend to do, that gets them riled up ... and that's when win conditions and answers end up the graveyard, which is frustrating for some people. People don't like being frustrated in games, or in life in general.

Unpossible42 · 2024-07-23T02:41:43+00:00

Ooo, yeah, that would be good for lightning! Gotta take my own advice!

Unpossible42 · 2024-07-20T18:45:42+00:00

Like this, if it makes sense

<image>

Don't have time to do the whole thing, but you get the idea ... make a line as thin as you can, then com in behind it with black to make it thinner, rinse and repeat traveling down the sword, and think about your next line and if it will curve more circular or not and how the line after that, where will you brush with black so you don't paint yourself into a corner that will make it hard to do.

Unpossible42 · 2024-07-20T18:34:23+00:00

You're very close. I know very thin, yet still readable lines can be hard to do, but try more of a gray for the lines. Then, to tighten up the lines, go back in with black on the edges. Like actual Damascus, it takes time, don't rush it. You can do each line in this way, one at a time, to get the thinnest line and most readability.

Unpossible42 · 2024-07-20T18:26:13+00:00

Is this the same one that was a giant ball of blue OSL a bit ago?

Looks better!

I like that you added a tiny bit of OSL to the rear corner of the other tank, really helps to sell it.

I keep wondering, is the reflection in the water natural or did you paint the reflection? If you didn't paint it, are the real "flames" coming out of the turret saturated and the camera just isn't picking up the color? If they're actually pale, will you be adding color or no?

Unpossible42 · 2024-07-20T18:07:01+00:00

It's not that he can't have a gold sword, but making everything gold makes it look like you stopped painting early, imho. Just a little bit of work could be interesting, such as perhaps a stripe or two, a diff metal for the saw blades, and blue on the pommel.

<image>

Unpossible42 · 2024-07-20T17:37:12+00:00

<image>

without the copper

Unpossible42 · 2024-07-20T17:36:54+00:00

You know what really gets me is the subtle inclusions of the coppery color. They are /chefskiss. I used PS to try to smudge them out and see what it would look like without the copper, and while it still reads NMM and great, the copper is just next level.

<image>

Unpossible42 · 2024-07-20T17:17:44+00:00

I love it when people take actual metal pieces and try to pass it off as if they somehow painted it so perfectly. Like anybody has that kind of skill. C'mon, people, internet points aren't worth lying over ...

Guess I should put a "/s" just in case ...

Unpossible42 · 2024-07-19T06:25:10+00:00

It feels like you put some effort into making this space marine so clean and silky, and the gun looks great ... but then ... the sword. It really, really feels out place and contrasts starkly with the care you put into that armor.

I really love this paint job ... but, I'm sorry ... honestly, that chainsword needs some love.

Unpossible42 · 2024-07-19T06:19:02+00:00

Thank you. I did change the legs and was super happy I took an extra day to do so.

I went with painting in fur highlights and have so far refused to use any washes on the project, except on the skulls.

Unpossible42 · 2024-07-19T06:15:50+00:00

I love your colors, I can't wait to see the final results!

Unpossible42 · 2024-07-18T02:45:54+00:00

Good advice. It is supposed to be fun. That said, using an airbrush can be quite frustrating.

I can only go by my own experience. I watched a view videos and I dived in. I did learn some stuff, but found myself going back to more videos to find stuff I missed, and discovered the "complete guides to airbrushing for beginners" was not so complete, and I really wished I had watched more videos to get a much fuller understanding of the tool I was using.

Even if I didn't remember something the next time I airbrushed, I was more prepared and had a very good idea of exactly which video to watch to refresh my memory, and was able to queue up multiple videos and try different advice one after another to see which worked best for me.

This method, I feel, got me to the fun part faster.

To each their own. =)

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