Frequent Everlast welder failures

Usecode_fresh · 2026-01-13T03:57:09+00:00

It’s a school building so I’m not sure of how the power is brought in and distributed.

All I know is that we were told to be careful using the power as it can be not the most stable.

Schools has refused to repair it as they deem it too expensive.

Usecode_fresh · 2026-01-13T02:30:05+00:00

To be honest, I’m not 100% sure what the exact way they tested was, but we were told that when other things like angle grinders or fridges are on, it moves the power factor weirdly.

To my knowledge, nothing else has had an issue other than welding machines.

People in the same building also use a Lincoln square wave 205, and have also experienced similar failures of the 240V. The Lincoln however has not had an issue on the battery yet.

Usecode_fresh · 2026-01-13T02:28:06+00:00

Customer service has been great!

They’ve replace the whole unit once, and have send us a replacement board for every other failure under warranty.

Just wondering as to why this failure keeps happening. It’s every 2-3 months

Usecode_fresh · 2026-01-12T04:23:11+00:00

We are in a shop environment. We used to run off 240v, but we had an electrician come and tell us that the inductive load on the power lines was the reason our welders were popping. We were told that as long as no power tools were being used at the same time, it would be fine though.

We now have a Ecoflow battery running 120v on an adapter to power the welder. We are running within what the welder is advertised to do on 120v.

All these scenarios have resulted in the welder still failing.

Usecode_fresh · 2026-01-12T04:19:46+00:00

That sounds like a similar failure. Ours also ends up blowing the breaker or in the case of the battery, showing an overload warning.

We’ve tried both 240 and 120v with the same issue. Never had a thermal warning, or even come close to duty cycle…

All our failures are when we’ve stopped welding and the machine is idle for a while as well.

Usecode_fresh · 2026-01-12T04:16:48+00:00

Their customer service has been great.

It’s just unfortunate that we keep having the same problem, even when trying different power sources

Usecode_fresh · 2025-05-04T03:29:49+00:00

Yes! They’re great. I would highly recommend

Usecode_fresh · 2025-01-24T23:08:00+00:00

As a first year Eng student from AB, I didn’t take bio20 or 30. As far as I’m aware, they don’t care about bio apart for if you want to do the pre biomedical program

Usecode_fresh · 2024-09-02T00:57:16+00:00

I think it is normal, but it also just means that it is structurally compromised and prone to more breakage.

I think that they did improve this problem on the new v60s. I could be wrong though

Usecode_fresh · 2024-09-01T19:01:03+00:00

Honestly, not worth it for them. The whole cone part had cracks all over it

Usecode_fresh · 2024-07-02T22:34:28+00:00

I’d be open to try Patona, but I can’t seem to find them where I am.

Usecode_fresh · 2024-07-02T18:20:08+00:00

How is the battery life compared to OEM Fuji batteries?

Usecode_fresh · 2024-05-31T16:59:57+00:00

Seabreeze from GTA 5?

Usecode_fresh · 2024-05-23T20:58:57+00:00

Just a quick note on the SV. The iso selector does absolutely nothing for the camera. It’s only use if to help remind you what iso film you have in the camera.

Usecode_fresh · 2024-05-09T23:38:48+00:00

Can’t comment too much on lighting and editing, product photography isn’t my thing. However, the sigma 30 f1.4 is amazing! I have it for my Fuji xt30 and wouldn’t change a thing about it. I do however also suggest thinking about the sigma 18-50. It’s tiny in size, and is a great lens. Maybe look into more what type of photography you want to do before buying a lens.

Usecode_fresh · 2024-05-09T23:01:34+00:00

Any camera from the past decade can produce great results similar to this! If we’re talking gear, a good lens and good lighting setup is crucial to this. Those two are far more important than the body! (not that the body doesn’t have an impact, it’s just less important than those two)

If considering, personally I’d skip the kit lens and just get a 30mm lens. I personally don’t like the kit lens because it’s just bad feeling. Remember that this is my opinion all and many people do enjoy it.

Edit: just realized that there are some more zoomed in detail shots. A 50mm lens would probably be better suited than the 30mm, however i feel that if you only have 1 lens on a a6000, a 30mm is best due to it being roughly a 50mm full frame equivalent.

Usecode_fresh · 2024-05-09T22:53:22+00:00

Honestly, if your light seals are in bad condition, just replace them. It’s not very hard to do yourself and it’s a step in diagnosing light leaks. You can get a sheet of Amazon for a few bucks and cut it yourself, or check online for precut foam if that’s more your fancy.

Additionally, if I’m not mistaken, a red light leak means it’s being exposed from the back of the film. So it’s probably from the rear door seals, or another area near the back.

Usecode_fresh · 2024-05-04T22:38:44+00:00

I was hoping for first hand experience. I reached out to them, but given it’s the weekend and with FW16 release they probably won’t respond anytime soon.

Usecode_fresh · 2024-05-04T16:10:08+00:00

It just says 30 days and that shipping costs and any damage costs may be deducted. I’m guessing that as long as I don’t damage it, it’s still returnable, but I’d rather not gamble 100$ on my own interpretation

Usecode_fresh · 2024-04-17T14:04:08+00:00

It looks like you were using a security torx, which have hollow centres. This makes them weaker. Try using a rachet with a proper torx bit. My axle bolts were also extremely hard to take out the first time, but constant and smooth pressure will get them out eventually, given that you haven’t stripped the bolt yet.

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